^ same question as above.

Is that vinegar? Oil? IPA?

moar information please.

well, i had finished this step of the tek


"Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.

Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.

Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water

Step 3: Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container.
If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.

Step 4:Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.

Step 5: Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar"



from q21q21. not sure what i did wrong

What are you trying to do? We still don't know what the pictures are. Just basify your vinegar now and pull with clean NPS.

So is that top layer your oil and that bottom layer the water (and/or vinegar) that you added?

I'm still confused as to exactly what is in the image.

What's happening in those steps is that your oil should be full of freebase DMT from the previous steps (basing with lime and pulling into the solvent). By adding the vinegar you are causing the DMT to turn into a salt form (DMT acetate to be precise) and migrate to the lower vinegar layer, by adding water after that you are getting the rest of the DMT acetate that didn't go into the first vinegar pull to move into the water.

You are going to want to make a few pulls this way and combine them, then you evaporate this vinegar/water mix to a goo which you will mix with sodium carbonate to form a paste and either pull into alcohol or wash with water to obtain freebase DMT.

Does that make sense?

Hey Guys,
Just doing an A/B extraction with vinegar/sodium carbonate/limonene.
First two pulls with limonene separated very well and were put in jar 2 to be salted.
3rd pull was shook a little more vigorously and now there are three layers, a tiny amount of limonene/frothy mid-layer/basic solution.

It stole around 250mL of limonene!
Is it simply a matter of adding more sodium carbonate? Because I added enough so that no more would dissolve.

No dont add any more too much causes a messy disaster add non-iodised and ANTI CAKING AGENT free salt then put it in a warm (not hot) water bath.

it does make sense. should all of the oil be out at this point? i think i still have too much oil though that i wasn't able to get out with the turkey baster.


here's the thread i posted regarding which tek i used, i followed the exact steps

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=51073


the pictures are what i have after step four. i will do a search on what it means to basify and pull with clean NPS, i'm very novice to this process. thanks guys.

Yes. Once you have salted out your spice with vinegar then all your dmt will be in the vinegar. At this point you need to remove all oil from the vinegar. The best way is to just baste out the vinegar from the bottom and put it into another container. Then you need to add a base(lye, lime, soda carb) until it has reached ph 13. Then you can add a clean nonpolar solvent such as naptha or xylene and agitate it. Your cleaned dmt will then go into your nonpolar solvent and then you just freeze or evaporate and you're done. I just did this exact procedure last night.

@Du57mi73
Actually he is looking to do a foodsafe tek that avoids using solvents such as naphtha and xylene. You seem to be working on the assumption he is doing a standard a/b style tek, when he is actually working a food-safe dry tek, which is a completely different procedure.

@inaniel
You should have all the oil from that first pull out into the separate jar. It should have been easy to pour off your "thick oatmeal" mixture of lime/bark. Usually oil is too thick to pour through a coffee or cottonball filter. You should have ended up in step 2 with what is basically a solid clump of the bark and lime and that should have been swimming in the liquid oil after step 3. Then you simply pour off the liquid oil leaving the (semi) solid clump of bark/lime behind.

Don't worry if you didn't get all the oil, you'll be able to work with that on your next pull. At this point you want to add your vinegar to the oil you have pulled off and mix it together with the oil well. The layers will separate and the dmt will move to the vinegar layer at the bottom, you will want to remove the vinegar layer (I usually pour the oil off the top into a separate jar and then pull the rest off with the baster trying to leave only the vinegar layer with a little oil as possible on top of it in the original jar). Then following your tek as outlined you will add water to the oil just like you did with the vinegar and separate again. This time you will want to mix the water with the vinegar.

At this point just set your vinegar/water mix to the side and go back to step 3 and pull into some oil again (you can reuse the oil you used before or use fresh oil). Then you will repeat everything again (pour the oil off the lime/bark mixture, add vinegar and separate, add water and separate) You will want to combine all the vinegar and water pulls from the oil together into one big jar, in the end you will boil all this down to a goo and then convert it to freebase as per steps a or b in the tek you are following.

So you want make 3-4 pulls from the bark/lime mix into the oil. Then for each of those oil pulls you will want to do 2-3 of the vinegar-water pulls from the oil. In the end you will combine all of the vinegar-water pulls and proceed to steps a or b (evaporating to a goo and freebasing with sodium carbonate).

Sorry that's a lot of info, I hope that kinda helps to clarify and doesn't just confuse things more lol. Let me know if anything about that doesn't make sense.

thanks for taking the time to type all of it out, make a lot of sense!


i was trying to take the water out of the water/vinegar combination with a turkey baster as well. didn't know i could boil this down to a goo. there's also still visible amounts of oil left in this mixture that i wasn't able to remove properly. hope it isn't too late to remove this, but i get the feeling it might be. may just give the tek another shot, your explanations made my understanding of the tek a lot more clear.

If you have any doubts you can always just throw it all back in to a new mix and start the process over.

Yea, I understood his original use of foodsafeness, but I wasn't sure if that was his goal, just his availabilty. If that's the case how do you intend to receive your final product? Even after basing with sodium carbonate how will you retreive your spice?

Hello,

I'm about to start a new experiment/extraction and I have been thinking about something and would like some feedback from my fellow Nexians...

180 gr mhrb, normally one would say: 3 jars, each with 60 gr mhrb, 600-900 ml water, 50 cl vinegar, 50 gr NaCl, 50 gr NaOH...

Could it mess up my extraction if I went: 180 gr in one jar, 800 ml water, 50 cl vinegar, 50 gr NaCl, 50 gr NaOH, leave it for a while (cell lysis) then divide it into 3 jars and add water until each jar contains 600-900 ml? I may add an extra 35 gr of NaCl to each jar (to keep ionic strength up to par)...

I read somewhere that when scaling up an extraction, one should use amounts of vinegar, lye etc relative to the amount of liquid rather than the amount of bark, hence my question...
Adding the water afterwards after dividing into three jars shouldn't influence the pH too much, the tap water where I live has a pH of 6.7/6.8...

But if this should be a recipe for disaster, it would be nice to know

PLUR

PS No, it's not so much about saving vinegar and lye, but about convenience and efficiency...

I reckon that would work just fine
You can always add a pinch more lye if it feels too dilute.
(but why not just 3 separate, simultaneous extractions...each with their own ingredients?...more efficient than messy divisions.)

Thanks Cyb...

The main reason is because not all my jars are empty/clean yet and this way I can already get things prepared...

So I've done some toluene pulls on basic soup that has already yielded 1.68%...

For a total of 400 ml of toluene I prepared 3 bottles with 25 ml of vinegar each...

After each wash, how long should I wait before decanting the toluene into the next bottle?

Upon separation? After an hour?

I tried moving the toluene from one bottle to another a few minutes after separation, but in the third bottle it stays cloudy...

Do I need to use more vinegar or do I need to let it sit longer to settle? Maybe both?

Thank you, whoever you are, for your swift reply

Ideally, you want your pull not to be cloudy when you pull it. The cloudiness will clear given time, (i.e. 1-2 days) but if you grab a cloudy pull it may not be the end of the world. A cloudy pull may contain constituents of the basic soup which you may not want. For what you're planning to do, i.e. salt it with an acid, i do not see a particular problem.

hello im from within the eu and would like to try it out

since Acacia Confusa is only importable from the usa i wanted to ask what kind of plant i could use as an alternative , which i can buy from like the uk or netherlands and which will give nice results THX

if one adds too much h20 over the salting and base stages the solution does this mean one would would simply pull longer (shake and settle nps for long times) and/or would one be able to reduce even after having added base?

Your sentence didn't really make sense... but I can try to answer what I think it means. Do you mean to say you added a little more water after you based it? I think you're saying you just have too much water. You can reduce the amount of water if you have a lot of base at your disposal because reducing the amount of water would entitle acidifying the solution again, then reduce it by boiling it down, then re basifying it. You cannot boil it down if it is a basic solution, you will destroy your spice. If you're having trouble with emulsion I would suggest adding 10-20g more lye and seeing if that helps. If you have too much water for your container then split it up into multiple jars and do it seperately. If you just want to work with what you got, just give it time. Its going to need alittle more base to reach the desired ph, but it'll do just fine.

so i was following the popular erowid dmt extraction guidelines (here: http://www.erowid.org/ch...s/dmt/extraction_guide1/) to try to extract dmt from phalaras arundicea. i was using naphtha as my solvent, phosphoric-acid based 'ph down' as my acidifier, and was planning to use lye to base.

in the tek's step 5/6, I went through the 'defat' step and was unsure if the green globules i was seeing was fat, and if i wanted to remove it. The naphtha rose to the top of the solution as the tek said, and most of the green globules were in this layer, though they were at the bottom of it (almost looking separate), above the acidified distlled water.

Then when I checked on here to see what was up, I saw this thread: https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=10671

.. which suggests i was supposed to basify before i defat. SO now I'm wondering whether I should basify, continue per the tek i was originally using, or abandon ship lol. to be clear, right now i'm sitting with a mix of naphtha + acidified distilled water holding the 'tea' (extracted alkaloids) from a bunch of phalaris arundicea.