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official extraction help thread Options
 
endlessness
#1741 Posted : 8/29/2013 5:39:44 PM

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Dunghippy wrote:
Hello forum and notably Cyb or thick-light if you read this.

SWIM might have 200g Acacia root bark and would like to attempt a/b extraction using either of these teks or a combination of them because SWIM only wants to use 50g at a time in case it doesn't work out the first time. SWIM figures he has 4 chances to get it right.
https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44251
https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030
https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=36239

SWIMS problem probably is that the first two use 500g, or 1000g of the ACRB. SWIM understands that you can scale down, just not the time of the acid boils. However, SWIM would like to know how much h20, vinegar, lye and naphta would be used and reduced down using only 50g of the ACRB (SWIM thought using the proportions in Cyb's tek could work). I can imagine that too little or too much water would affect the PH, and also boiling it for almost 2 hours would leave no water left if too little is used. SO IN SHORT could someone please scale the two ACRB teks down for SWIM using only 50g of ACRB, including amount of h20, vinegar, lye, and naphta.

Could Cyb's tek be used with the ACRB? Or since Cyb's tek uses 50g amount would his proportions be good to use with the first two ACRB teks above.

Are acid boils needed on small 50g batches?

Any help would be great this would be SWIMS first time.



Dunghippy, yeah any of the teks here in the nexus should work fine with acacia confusa. Do know you might get a goo, but that is not a problem since its perfectly active.

Scale down proportionately, I don't see whats the difficulty there.. As for boiling with little water, just put a top on the pot and the water wont boil away, and you can always add a bit more water if its almost getting dry. The pH wont be affected that much since anyways extractions amounts need not to be exact, there is quite some room for change and things still work fine. Just dont throw anything away till you're finished, and it doesnt matter what happens, you can always recover your alkaloids, nothing will be lost.
 

Good quality Syrian rue (Peganum harmala) for an incredible price!
 
Dunghippy
#1742 Posted : 8/29/2013 9:28:00 PM
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endlessness wrote:
Dunghippy wrote:
Hello forum and notably Cyb or thick-light if you read this.

SWIM might have 200g Acacia root bark and would like to attempt a/b extraction using either of these teks or a combination of them because SWIM only wants to use 50g at a time in case it doesn't work out the first time. SWIM figures he has 4 chances to get it right.
https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44251
https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030
https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=36239

SWIMS problem probably is that the first two use 500g, or 1000g of the ACRB. SWIM understands that you can scale down, just not the time of the acid boils. However, SWIM would like to know how much h20, vinegar, lye and naphta would be used and reduced down using only 50g of the ACRB (SWIM thought using the proportions in Cyb's tek could work). I can imagine that too little or too much water would affect the PH, and also boiling it for almost 2 hours would leave no water left if too little is used. SO IN SHORT could someone please scale the two ACRB teks down for SWIM using only 50g of ACRB, including amount of h20, vinegar, lye, and naphta.

Could Cyb's tek be used with the ACRB? Or since Cyb's tek uses 50g amount would his proportions be good to use with the first two ACRB teks above.

Are acid boils needed on small 50g batches?

Any help would be great this would be SWIMS first time.



Dunghippy, yeah any of the teks here in the nexus should work fine with acacia confusa. Do know you might get a goo, but that is not a problem since its perfectly active.

Scale down proportionately, I don't see whats the difficulty there.. As for boiling with little water, just put a top on the pot and the water wont boil away, and you can always add a bit more water if its almost getting dry. The pH wont be affected that much since anyways extractions amounts need not to be exact, there is quite some room for change and things still work fine. Just dont throw anything away till you're finished, and it doesnt matter what happens, you can always recover your alkaloids, nothing will be lost.


Thank you for the prompt response endlessness. SWIM figures the amount of water in the teks are really just to ensure the boils are not too thick etc. The more bark, the more water needed to maintain a certain consistency.
 
vineseeker
#1743 Posted : 8/30/2013 8:16:57 AM

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after freeze I scraped that white stuff out but it melted to liquid and there was water condensation on the freeze glass. What does this mean ? Just let it dry ?
"Imagination is more important than knowledge."
Albert Einstein

"It's very, very dangerous to lose contact with living nature."
Albert Hofmann
 
endlessness
#1744 Posted : 8/30/2013 12:37:36 PM

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Condensation is not an issue since freebase DMT is not soluble in water. What causes melting is residual naphtha warming up. Please check the FAQ for tips on how to solve this. Dont worry you're fine, it can always be recovered Smile
 
alert
#1745 Posted : 8/31/2013 4:26:01 PM
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endlessness wrote:
Condensation is not an issue since freebase DMT is not soluble in water. What causes melting is residual naphtha warming up. Please check the FAQ for tips on how to solve this. Dont worry you're fine, it can always be recovered Smile


I was wondering about this when I was doing a sodium carbonate wash the other day.

If the freebase is insoluble in water why do we have to make the water basic? Shouldn't a simple water wash of the solvent work fine?
 
DreaMTripper
#1746 Posted : 8/31/2013 5:07:29 PM

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Freebase is slightly soluble but not enough to make a big difference, washed with ice cold water at pH 7 will be fine then just dry it off near a heater.
 
alert
#1747 Posted : 8/31/2013 5:28:08 PM
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DreaMTripper wrote:
Freebase is slightly soluble but not enough to make a big difference, washed with ice cold water at pH 7 will be fine then just dry it off near a heater.


I figured that may be the case.

Just out of curiosity, could you use simply add salt to the water thereby increasing it's polarity and washing with that instead of using basic water? Or would the DMT still be slightly soluble even in the salt water?

I don't mind doing the sodium carbonate wash at all this is just knowledge for knowledge's sake. Smile
 
DreaMTripper
#1748 Posted : 9/1/2013 10:58:10 AM

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Yeah it should work its all about keeping the pH to a level so that the dmt wont dissolve in the water but the lye will or ay least get washed away.
I said to use ice cold before but its better with room temp so it dissolves all the excess lye.
pH pH pH! Very happy Keep it at neutral or very slightly basic and it will be fine.
Use a very small ammount pour it off and let the excess drops dry out in a warm spot.
 
Dunghippy
#1749 Posted : 9/1/2013 3:35:25 PM
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Ok so quick update on SWIMS acrb extract. (kinda long sorry)

50g acrb
100ml naphta
80g lye
100ml vinegar acid baths with h20 4 times.
Ended up with about 500ml liquid after all of the boils.

SWIM ended up doing a few things SWIM is not sure about.

1. When lye was added, jar became super hot, not just warm. It did not explode or anything even after shaking it rigorously for about 1 min at a time (about 10x). SWIM might have added lye to quickly and they stirred all at once instead of little at a time. SWIM didn't need to add to heat bath until about 8th shake due to it already being super hot. SWIM also didn't really notice if it turned grey, but it turned black.

2. Naphta was super dark and red after the 2nd shake, then got cloudier later on. With dark red tint to it.

3. Decanted naphta was cloudy and orange.

4. When SWIM let sit for about 15 hours only some orange goo was salvaged from jar (almost impossible to get out of jar as goo). SWIM has no idea what it is or if the naphta even evaporates out of it fully since it is wet goo.

5. SWIM did not freeze left over naphta after getting orange goo, but added it back into base mix and pulled again.

6. After sitting, much more "cleaner" orange goo left on filtered paper. Smells of flowers or rubber after drying for a while.

SWIM put naphta this time to freeze to see what happens. It is couldy off-white color so something is in it that won't form at room temp.

Swim would like to know if orange goo is DMT-NMT and if it is how can it be smoked since it is a goo. Could SWIM just get tobacco and coat it with goo to smoke?

Any comments are greatly appreciated.
 
alert
#1750 Posted : 9/1/2013 4:56:27 PM
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80g of lye in 500ml is a huge amount of base which is why your vessel got so hot. You probably only needed 20g or so.

I'd recrystallize the orange stuff, you probably didn't let the solvent/soup mix settle long enough before decanting and got some of the base mixture in there. The orange may just be oils or fats you pulled since your solvent got so hot but it is better safe than sorry. Even if you don't recrystallize I don't recommend smoking it on tobacco. I would use some other herb or a piece of rolling paper.

After your freeze precipitate you are going to see a clear goo and some crystals drop out. After you let the residual naphtha evaporate everything will likely melt back down into a goo when it reaches room temp. Baking dishes are a lot easier to scrape it out of than mason jars.

Best way to smoke it is dissolve it in some IPA or acetone (whichever you have on hand) and let that evaporate onto some other type of leaf (caapi, mullein, damiana)




 
Dunghippy
#1751 Posted : 9/2/2013 11:35:06 AM
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alert wrote:
80g of lye in 500ml is a huge amount of base which is why your vessel got so hot. You probably only needed 20g or so.

I'd recrystallize the orange stuff, you probably didn't let the solvent/soup mix settle long enough before decanting and got some of the base mixture in there. The orange may just be oils or fats you pulled since your solvent got so hot but it is better safe than sorry. Even if you don't recrystallize I don't recommend smoking it on tobacco. I would use some other herb or a piece of rolling paper.

After your freeze precipitate you are going to see a clear goo and some crystals drop out. After you let the residual naphtha evaporate everything will likely melt back down into a goo when it reaches room temp. Baking dishes are a lot easier to scrape it out of than mason jars.

Best way to smoke it is dissolve it in some IPA or acetone (whichever you have on hand) and let that evaporate onto some other type of leaf (caapi, mullein, damiana)






Thank you for the response. SWIM will use less lye next time and didn't consider what it would do in that amount of liquid.

SWIM is freezing the saturated naphta from 2nd pull and sees tiny crystal lumps form on bottom and sides of glass. SWIM hopes they will not melt when taken out to dry.

AS for dissolving the goo in IPA (is that alcohol) could SWIM use pure grain 190 proof if SWIM has it on hand instead?
 
DreaMTripper
#1752 Posted : 9/2/2013 2:16:05 PM

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Sure
 
Dunghippy
#1753 Posted : 9/2/2013 2:56:48 PM
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Another quick update.

SWIM poured off the naphta after 24 hour freeze and fan dried getting what looks like white DMT crystals on sides and bottom of glass, and it did not melt.

However, even after drying from fan for ever 1hr bottom is still gooey mixed with white crystals and smells of flowers or "new sneakers".

SWIM thinks it is dmt+nmt and has had a successful extraction from only one pull+freeze.

So to reduce some paranoia can anyone confirm it is most likely dmt/nmt mix and is smokable.

Thanks again as this might also help other noobies as SWIM has no real clue what he is doing.
 
alert
#1754 Posted : 9/2/2013 3:51:52 PM
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Quote:
However, even after drying from fan for ever 1hr bottom is still gooey mixed with white crystals and smells of flowers or "new sneakers".

SWIM thinks it is dmt+nmt and has had a successful extraction from only one pull+freeze.

So to reduce some paranoia can anyone confirm it is most likely dmt/nmt mix and is smokable.


Yes, is most likely DMT+NMT. It is fine to smoke, but personally I like to let my pulls sit for 24 hours after freeze precipitation or so just to let any residual naphtha evaporate off. An hour with a fan is good, but I prefer to err on the side of caution.

Another thing I personally like to do is dissolve the DMT-NMT in a minimal amount of ethanol (your 190 proof is perfect) and let it evaporate again to get any residual naphtha out of the crystalline structures. This is optional but I like to do it for peace of mind. If you are making changa/infused leaf you will use this step anyway.

And yes, IPA is isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. I use it because it is cheaper than buying 190 proof ethanol. Both will work though.
 
Dunghippy
#1755 Posted : 9/2/2013 4:48:57 PM
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alert wrote:
Quote:
However, even after drying from fan for ever 1hr bottom is still gooey mixed with white crystals and smells of flowers or "new sneakers".

SWIM thinks it is dmt+nmt and has had a successful extraction from only one pull+freeze.

So to reduce some paranoia can anyone confirm it is most likely dmt/nmt mix and is smokable.


Yes, is most likely DMT+NMT. It is fine to smoke, but personally I like to let my pulls sit for 24 hours after freeze precipitation or so just to let any residual naphtha evaporate off. An hour with a fan is good, but I prefer to err on the side of caution.

Another thing I personally like to do is dissolve the DMT-NMT in a minimal amount of ethanol (your 190 proof is perfect) and let it evaporate again to get any residual naphtha out of the crystalline structures. This is optional but I like to do it for peace of mind. If you are making changa/infused leaf you will use this step anyway.

And yes, IPA is isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. I use it because it is cheaper than buying 190 proof ethanol. Both will work though.


Thank you again. SWIM has the goo and white crystals (with some goo) separated onto two different lids sitting so far.

SWIM supposes to go to the smoking section to figure out his next move? Never smoked anything in SWIMS life only mouth-smoked a cig as a young lad. Any advice?
 
vineseeker
#1756 Posted : 9/3/2013 1:20:02 PM

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Hello, I have two questions. My dmt crystals still smell (3days) like naptha, whats that about.. does it go away?

secondly I did harmala extraction with gibrans tek.
This is the final result.


Iam a bit proud but does it look good in comparison to other harmala extractions?


thx
"Imagination is more important than knowledge."
Albert Einstein

"It's very, very dangerous to lose contact with living nature."
Albert Hofmann
 
3rdI
#1757 Posted : 9/3/2013 1:30:59 PM

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you could try to re-X your stinky crystals or dissolve them in IPA and allow that to evap.

your harmalas look fine but I would complete another few rounds of A/B to clean them up a little, I like my extracted harnmals to be nice and light in colour,

did you extract from rue or caapi?
INHALE, SURVIVE, ADAPT

it's all in your mind, but what's your mind???

fool of the year

 
vineseeker
#1758 Posted : 9/3/2013 1:39:42 PM

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thanks, I try that with the dmt.

These are from rue but the caapi is in the making too Smile
Hope it works out as nice.

greetz
"Imagination is more important than knowledge."
Albert Einstein

"It's very, very dangerous to lose contact with living nature."
Albert Hofmann
 
3rdI
#1759 Posted : 9/3/2013 1:46:22 PM

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If you want to play around with them some more you could manske them and also have a go at separating the Harmine from the Harmaline, its all good funThumbs up

good luck with your crystals and don't forget to post back when you successfully remove the smell
INHALE, SURVIVE, ADAPT

it's all in your mind, but what's your mind???

fool of the year

 
vineseeker
#1760 Posted : 9/3/2013 4:42:11 PM

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i will update and sometime I want to do the manske.
but tell me are the alkaloids I got right now ok to consume orally?
the final solution had ph 7 and I did wash many times.
"Imagination is more important than knowledge."
Albert Einstein

"It's very, very dangerous to lose contact with living nature."
Albert Hofmann
 
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