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First extraction coming up ACRB Options
 
lulzLegion
#1 Posted : 7/31/2013 7:34:40 AM
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Hello all! I've been thinking about making an account and doing an extraction for a long time now. I've been reading for several months on and off about the psychedelic experiences, safety tips, STB & A/B extractions etc. etc.

I've read several different A/B teks (because I'm probably going to be extracting from ACRB)
Which include:

Q21Q21's A/B "The Fluffy White Funfest"
joshisom's Acacia Confusa extraction
thick-light's acrb tek
and one on "disregard everything I say"

I'd like to try to roll play my process of extracting with an active Q/A session
(with me asking most of the questions ha..ha..ha...)

Equipment to be used:

- 2 sets of mason jars that fit inside each other
- 1/2 gallon mason jar
- stove top
- stirring sticks (wooden)
- lye
- 5% white vinegar
- reverse osmosis water
- scrapers
- coffee filters
- Naphtha
- "rainbow tree" root bark
- gloves
- eye protection
- long sleeved clothing
- turkey baster

Type of Tek used:
A combination of thick-light, Q21Q21, and the STB extraction I found in "disregard everything I say"
Most of it is a copy of thick-light's tutorial with some modification and rephrasing so I can refer to it as notes.



First Extraction: 500g's ACRB
Second Extraction: 500g's ACRB

Preparation

Step1: clean kitchen, gather materials and organize them how you like
Step2: I would start by taking the ACRB ( "large pieces"Pleased and freezing it
Step3: Then I would proceed to thaw said pieces and refreeze
Step4: Grind them up with a blender

Repeat Steps2-4 until result is as powdery as possible

Acidification

Step1: Get a container that can hold 2000mL of H20 with 100mL vinegar
Step2: Heat pot containing the water and vinegar until boiling
Step3: Let solution boil for 1 1/2 hours
Step4: Add more vinegar to replace missing liquid (if a lot is missing add a bit of water and check pH levels)
Step5: Stir solution
Step6: allow solution to rest for 30 minutes

Repeat Steps2-6 until you notice a color change from the first few boils (around 5 according to thick-light)

Step7: Reduce solution to 1500mL
Step8: Pour into half gallon mason jar

Basification

Step1: If haven't already, set up ventilation and get the heavy duty kitchen gloves/goggles out
Step2: add 150+ grams of lye...SLOWLY! to basify your solution
Step3: Add 600ml of naphtha (used for seperation process
Step6: seal the jar
Step7: Shake the jar lightly for "awhile" (helps prevent emulsions)
Step8: Let solvent separate completely

Repeat Steps7-8 X 10

Separation

Step1: decant the top layer of solvent
Step2: place solvent in glass_container1 (should be milky white)
Step3: Let sit for 6 hours
Step4: clean out freezer and put everything in freezer in fridge
Step5: pour glass_container1 into glass_container2
Step6: stick glass_container2 into freezer, covered overnight / 8 hours

Repeat Steps5-6 until naphtha is gone


Cautions

- don't let lye touch skin
- don't let lye touch water + skin
- don't add water to lye (instead add lye to water SLOWLY!)
- don't put your fucking face in the container containing lye
** this is because lye reacts with water and releases the energy as heat = my guess
- When decanting make sure to pull only the top layer and none of the bottom layer


Precautions

-In the acidification process the solution needs to reach 3-4 pH while being heated, with the bark inside for the

destruction of plant cell walls to commence
-use a "safe" turkey baster
-make sure area is well ventilated (stove fan + cross wind)

Questions

1. Is it okay to use a small plastic baster to decant?
2. Would I be able to find hdpe basters, eye droppers or glass versions at some "mart"?
3. In Q21Q21's tek it says "make sure your lime is calcium hydroxide or else tek will not work!"
I'm assuming it's okay to use pure sodium hydroxide instead. Is that correct?
4. Why is heating the acidified solution aide in breaking down plan cell walls?
5. After the acidification when adding lye should the solution become clear when done on ACRB?
6. Is there a word for stirring something like you stir wine before taking a sip?
7. Why keep the solution warm prior to decant
8. Best way to get crystals out of a mason jar?

Answers

1. I answered my own questions and found that ONLY hdpe plastic works
2. Order online perhaps can find eye drops in store
3. Lye is good (why?)
4. It helps pull tryptamines out of the bark and into the solution as acetates
5. should become black
6. ...
7. because you are wanting tryptamines you need to keep the solution warm for saturation purposes
8. ...

thanks for reading!
I know of one thing,
of nothing, I know to know.
everything I know.
 

Good quality Syrian rue (Peganum harmala) for an incredible price!
 
Metanoia
#2 Posted : 7/31/2013 12:44:42 PM

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The best advice I can give is for your first extraction, don't improvise. Follow one tek instead of combinations.

I did my first extraction on acacia not too long ago and it went very well. I followed thicklight's tek almost to the letter.

Here's the issues I've found with your tek so far:

Acid boils: I do them for at least an hour and a half. Probably not a big issue if you do 5 boils, but with hour and a half boils I only do four and the fourth is very lightly colored.

Quote:
Basification Step3: Have read that solvent will become clear when the right amount of lye is added.


I'm not sure what you mean here. When you base your tea it should turn very black and you should get a strong indole smell. If you don't know what DMT smells like, well, this smell will teach you Very happy Step 4 says "add solvent" so I think you're aware that you need to base before you add the solvent. Just thought I'd clarify.

After you add your solvent you should roll end over end the first couple times. I found that one of my jars emulsified a bit when I shook too hard at the beginning. Once the solvent separates from the base liquid a couple times it's okay to shake more vigorously. I hold it right in the sink and use a sort of figure 8 motion. Step 9 says to swish it like a glass of wine...rolling end over end is more effective. That should reduce the likelihood of emulsion.

Also one good tip is to have a crock pot/slow cooker/rice cooker or double boiler of some sort to keep your jar(s) warm between shakes/while separating. This is important. I keep them at a temperature that is almost too hot to handle with the gloves on. If it's just luke warm, not good enough. It should be fairly hot. That said, be aware of pressure build up in the jar. You can tell by feeling the lid on a mason jar. If it pushes down easily, it's okay. If it's tight and hard, you need to carefully unscrew the lid slowly and "burp" the jar. You hear the pressure being released, it's pretty easy to do it safely.

Quote:
Separation Step3: Let sit for 6 hours

Make sure it's covered and at room temperature.

Quote:
Separation Step6: stick glass_container2 into freezer, uncovered overnight / 8 hour

Your solvent should be covered in the freezer or 1.) it will evaporate and 2.) ice crystals will contaminate it.

Just a little explanation of freeze precipitation: When the solvent is hot it becomes super saturated with DMT and other tryptamines. As it cools, some of that drops out (at room temp with this tek). When you drop that temperature down extremely low, like in a freezer, it will drop almost all of what it's holding in the solvent. You pour that off and put the container under a fan to evaporate any remaining solvent.

Note: With acacia you'll get goo with freeze precipitation. When you take your container out of the freezer and pour the solvent off and put the fan on it, make sure it's not in a position where anything can roll out. Put it on its side or even just flat because once it starts to warm up even a little solvent can melt everything in it. You don't want it running out onto your countertop or anything Smile

Questions:

2.) I had to order my glass turkey baster online. It was cheap and easy to get, however. The glass eye droppers were a pain in the ass to find in a store. I would suggest ordering them online as well if you can.

3.) Lye is perfect for this tek.

4.) The freeze and thaw, freeze and thaw is what helps break down the cells. Heating the acidified solution helps pull the tryptamines into the solution as acetates.

5.) I answered this already but I'll reiterate. No, it should turn BLACK, very dark. If it still looks sort of brownish at all you could wait a bit to see if it goes darker or just add more lye to make sure everything is basified and ready to be pulled.

6.) I called it a "swish" but it's a sort of stirring motion. Not really relevant anyhow because rolling end over end is what you should be doing.

7.) As I explained about the freeze precipitation, warm/hot solvent will hold way more goodies than cold solvent. It just allows us to get the solvent super saturated before precipitation.

Hope that helps you get a better understanding of the process and helps you avoid any rookie mistakes. Good luck!
 
lulzLegion
#3 Posted : 7/31/2013 5:44:42 PM
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Quote:
Step 4 says "add solvent" so I think you're aware that you need to base before you add the solvent.


I don't have a step 4 under basification so now I'm a little bit confused :O

Quote:
Cover when placed in freezer

will saran rap do? I'm afraid the naphtha might melt it with it's ungodly fumes

Thanks for all the help! Again this isn't really my tek; it's more of a slightly modified version of thick-light's tek made so that I can understand why all the steps are being done and not just following a tek.
I know of one thing,
of nothing, I know to know.
everything I know.
 
Sykosis
#4 Posted : 8/1/2013 12:14:41 AM

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You may want to add a de-fatting before your basification step since your using ACRB.

No Naphtha wont melt saran wrap it's ok to use.

--Sykosis is nothing more then a material manifestation of the collective minds and thoughts of many.
No one individual can be held accountable nor responsible for any of the actions Preformed by this user. All opinions, thoughts, statements and ideas expressed by this user are nothing more then a mere coincidental, incoherent, incomprehensible, fictitious rambling and should be treated as such.--
 
Metanoia
#5 Posted : 8/1/2013 12:27:37 PM

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lulzLegion wrote:
I don't have a step 4 under basification so now I'm a little bit confused :O

I meant step 3 where it says to add 600ml naphtha. Just make sure you have it well based before you add your solvent Pleased

lulzLegion wrote:
Quote:
Cover when placed in freezer

will saran rap do? I'm afraid the naphtha might melt it with it's ungodly fumes

It won't melt it, but it's hard to get a really good seal with saran wrap and elastic bands. I use small mason jars. Anything that is airtight (and glass) will do.

Sykosis wrote:
You may want to add a de-fatting before your basification step since your using ACRB.

I found defatting totally unnecessary. It effects final yield and can seriously complicate things. Recrystalization afterwards is a better choice.
 
lulzLegion
#6 Posted : 8/1/2013 5:13:05 PM
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Quote:
I meant step 3 where it says to add 600ml naphtha. Just make sure you have it well based before you add your solvent


yeah that has always been the plan. My questions is why does it raise concern? Is it because it'll heat up the naptha?

Quote:
Dioxippus: It won't melt it, but it's hard to get a really good seal with saran wrap and elastic bands. I use small mason jars. Anything that is airtight (and glass) will do.


The problem I foresee with that is how to get the it out. It is why I originally wanted to go with an open container. I do fear condensation but I also want to get every last bit of product out. Any more suggestions would be wonderful. I really do appreciate your help so far!

Quote:
Dioxippus: I found defatting totally unnecessary. It effects final yield and can seriously complicate things. Recrystallization afterwards is a better choice.


well.. I mean... how much fat really is in bark anyways. I have never extracted before but I've always been under the impression that defat is for something like "phalaris grass" and the like.
I know of one thing,
of nothing, I know to know.
everything I know.
 
Metanoia
#7 Posted : 8/2/2013 6:54:36 AM

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lulzLegion wrote:
yeah that has always been the plan. My questions is why does it raise concern? Is it because it'll heat up the naptha?

No concern really. It will heat up the naphtha and you have to keep an eye on the pressure in the jar, but that's fairly easy to do. Just stay aware of it or you'll end up spraying black basic solution all over your kitchen, which wouldn't be fun.

lulzLegion wrote:
The problem I foresee with that is how to get the dmt out. It is why I originally wanted to go with an open container. I do fear condensation but I also want to get every last bit of product out. Any more suggestions would be wonderful. I really do appreciate your help so far!


No problem, glad to help.

It can be difficult to scrape it out of a jar like that. The next extraction I do I'm going to pick up some of those glass lock and lock containers for freeze precipitation. They have a relatively air tight seal and would work very well I think.

What I do now is scrape as much goo and crystal out as I can and then just swish warm solvent in the jar to dissolve anything that's left. I usually do that when I'm making my changa so I use that solvent to clean my jars.

If you can get it real tight then saran wrap and elastic bands will work. You mentioned emptying your freezer before doing the freeze precipitations so even if some fumes from the solvent leak out it won't contaminate any food. I would suggest trying both a flat baking dish type of container and a jar and compare the results. Flat dishes are easier to scrape, for sure, but I found it much harder to evaporate the remaining solvent from them and that would then cause all the goo and crystals to melt.

lulzLegion wrote:
well.. I mean... how much fat really is in bark anyways. I have never extracted before but I've always been under the impression that defat is for something like "phalaris grass" and the like.

People have had troubles with defatting acacia in particular. And you're right, defatting is usually for sources that have a lot more undesirables in them. Acacia bark is a pretty clean source apart from the NMT or whatever causes the goo. Still, you can take any goo and do a recrystalization on it to separate the crystals and the goo.
 
lulzLegion
#8 Posted : 8/7/2013 11:30:01 PM
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I've begun my descent. I might take pictures.
I know of one thing,
of nothing, I know to know.
everything I know.
 
Metanoia
#9 Posted : 8/8/2013 5:41:31 AM

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If no pictures, I would suggest at least documenting the process. Write down the steps as you go. How much of this or that added, how long you shook for, etc.

It helps a lot with subsequent extractions so that you don't repeat the same mistake due to memory lapse Smile
 
lulzLegion
#10 Posted : 8/8/2013 8:47:19 PM
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So i separated the solution into 2 separate jars. The jar I'm interested in is the jar that seems to have 3 different layers of solution.

It seems to be clear'ish' (slightly yellow tinged) at the top layer which consists of 100ml of naphtha. middle layer is mirky (milky color) and is maybe 50-75mL of naphtha. The rest is super dark black/red.

I'm curious as to why the milk is floating in the middle like that. it's extremely basic uniformly, I'm on my 8th - 9th shake in a hot bath. My first guess is too much naphtha but I am unsure..
I know of one thing,
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lulzLegion
#11 Posted : 8/8/2013 9:55:32 PM
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some pics Drool Surprised Confused Wut?




I know of one thing,
of nothing, I know to know.
everything I know.
 
 
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