12pH is optimum level...you have too much lye onboard.
If you add a handful of salt and use hot NPS pulls...you will find a greater amount being pushed out.
Freeze as normal.

Thanks Cyb for the speedy reply, he did as you said,
he put some salt in and then got the pH meter working, but found that now the pH was 10.5 or around there. Could this be right?
The meter seemed to be correct, it was consistently saying that the tap water is 7.4 which is bang on, but could it be wrong about the solution?
I trusted it because the solution was now back to deep/dark red and not thick at all, so he added the rest of the NaOH to get the pH to (apparently) 11.1, now im doing a really hot bath pull with 250mls of shellite, but its still not separating after 5 minutes.
Is the shellite dissolving into the solution a symptom of too much lye or could it also be because it is not alkalised enough?

Can I just leave the solution for a couple of hours/over night and then siphon it when its cold, will the dmt still be in the shellite? It seems to take some hours for it to fully separate

That should be fine to do....
Although I don't know about the particular properties of that bark or shellite...

well, we will soon find out! Thanks for the help mate!

I recently attempted the Noman tek with 50 grams of MHRB. (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman's_tek)

After making the Bark+Water+NaOH solution, and letting it stir for about 90 minutes, there was still some "sludge" like material inside my mixing jar. Is this okay? Should I make effort to prevent this?

Also wanted to ask if heating my Bark+Water+NaOH solution while it is sitting and stirring would be a good idea.

Thanks!

Hello,

I have had 10+ successfl extractions however the last 4 I have done seem like they have worked well as I remove from the freezer and there is loads of white crystals then I pour off the solvent and they seem to melt and leave behind a tiny sticky patch.

What is going wrong it is doing my head in!! Only change I can think is I swapped from petroleum ether to rosonal lighter fluid which I believe others use no problem

Thanks

Greetings, D9 here! I am very cloudy tonight, as forewarning, so forgive any runaround or sporadic exchange in my case & points. I have made my introduction essay concluding the same thing. Anyhow! On to the matter at hand. I have (with a partner) successfully, one could say.. performed my first ever extraction from Acacia root bark via a hybrid of Marsifold's & a "Be Love" tek found from an external source. We done everything wonderfully until the final steps. Made a few VERY haphazard and crucial errors. We had a supremely wonderful working area, that got sabotaged last minute. Had to vacate everything and transport at a final step (drying after freeze-precip) Well, turns out we had a 5 minute drive to the final destination, after only being able to freeze for about 15 hours. (I know, but it was a subzero 15 degree freezer) Besides that, it was ABOUT 95 DEGREES OUTSIDE, against our knowledge. We tried to make haste.. But in the pursuit I believe we lost quite a bit of yield. Not to mention, what we were left with were a VERY small amount of white crystals, underlaid by a yellow sludge formation. Which we dried, scraped and compiled. This is not what we want, and I wish to further refine this. It appears as such: [/img] - I know this feels like yet another GOO question.. But I am just in beginning stages of materializing with this stuff and any direct answers will be a great help. The final yield was quite small so I am almost to the point of saying "meh, we shall just enjoy this" - Some say this looks great. I am not sure where to go, any help is appreciated. This is now in the freezer taped up in a glass jar with a dessicant. Thanks to any beings in advance. Cheers! -D9

edit: This is the result of 100g Acacia Confusa rootbark, a thoroughly followed process, but an end result failure in a few steps. There were a few white x-tals. But honestly, how does this appear for a first time? Greater care will definitely be enforced & monitored, next go around.

Maz! Greetings! You are dealing with the very same that I dealt with (as described in my post directly prior to this.) Except, our x-tals didn't melt upon pouring the solvent, but upon foolishly taking them for a mandatory transport. What was left was a sticky, next to nothing mess. Slightly dissapointed, we left this to dry for a day. Came to scraping and it compiled as seen in my jar above. Yellowish pasty wax. Some say this is grand product (over 92% DMT if Acacia was used) - But I am still questioning this myself. I used a bit and boy does it pack a PUNCH still. I believe it's still good. Don't take my word, but I'm right there with you. Thanks! ( I believe there are A/B methods abound if you wish to further refine.) To refine & purify, or to just enjoy what is there.. Is my question. Safe travels!

Delta9, DMT doesn't dissapear or evaporate at 95degrees farenheit, at most it would melt, but it would still be there (unless it melted through and fell away from the container or something), the total weight would be the same, and the oil still contains your DMT and it will be equally active. At most, you had a small amount of it turning into DMT N-Oxide, which is also equally psychoactive, quite possibly just metabolizes into DMT in the body (as Shulgin said).

If you want to clean it up further, just recrystallize. Instructions are in the FAQ.

As for 'how does it look', also take a look at the FAQ question 'Is my DMT ok to smoke', specially the link below it, because we cannot tell by pictures, there are other factors you need to take into account.

Thanks a million Endless! I apologize for the hasty posting without doing more exploring. Was just nearly at wits end and exhausted resulting in seeking a more direct approach. I will be around gathering as much as I can and paying attention. Thank you.

Hi All,

Could you please tell me what other materials could be used for containers?

I'm going to use Cyb's salt tek first and them Max Ion to run a comparison between the two.

I was planning on using all glass though I was curios what out materials may work. I would hope that its obvious that metal is a no no, but I was wondering if some plastics might be alright, such as HDPE or polypropylene.

Ive done some Google and come up wih ldpe/hdpe should be ok with the NaOH. And in my case I would be using heptane it appears that as it is a Aliphatic hydrocarbon HDPE would be the way to go.

Can anyone confirm this my my own personal reassurance and possibly recommend any other options that there may be?

Love and light,

Basics

Hey durr,

SWIM is looking to extract NN DMT and 5-MeO-DMT from a local Phalaris Arundinacea strain. I would love if some other backyard chemists would give a look at my tek before I attempt it.

1. SWIM has began by collecting, freezing and unfreezing this phalaris strain to attempt to destroy some of that nasty chlorophyll that he extracted by accident in one of his earlier extraction attempts.

2. SWIM will make aqueous solution with the grass and lower its PH to around 4 using either HCL or Na2CO3 (allow to sit for several days)

3. Increase up to PH 12 to produce a soluble 5-HO-DMT.

4. Pull N,N DMT and 5-MeO DMT with Naptha and leave behind 5-HO-DMT, and Gramine

5. Evaporate Naptha and Yield alkaloids.

Any thoughts? More specifically which acid do you believe would work best?

A lot of people use HDPE, in theory it should be fine for naphtha and lye but personally I avoid plastic due to the possibility of plasticizers or similar, even if the container itself doesn't breakdown. Check this thread: https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=26324



Na2CO3 is a base, not an acid. You can use HCl or simply vinegar, both should work equally good, vinegar is safer to use.

The rest sounds ok, considering your phalaris has any DMT and 5-MeO-DMT to begin with. But personally I have never tested myself or read a confirmation that 5-MeO-DMT is soluble in naphtha. I'd think so, but can't be sure until I see this information from reliable source or test it myself, and I also haven't read it here in the nexus yet.

Im sorry I was meaning to say acetic acid but I had bicarbonate on the mind for the base step. Thanks tho!

EDIT:
nevermind, my question was solved.

Hi all. Did Cyb's salt tek. Followed to the T. Used pure lye, tap water, and heptane.

Did two jars. One with 50g one with 100g. Froze and thawed both jars once in acid bath then basified for an hour in a heat bath then pulled with 50ml heptane each. Freeze preciped over night in a -17c freezer.

Came out with I'd describe as a tanish colour. Feels waxy and looks like all dmt Ive ever seen before in person before this. Just seems odd to me as I was half expecting it to come out white or slightly yellow without re-x.

Thoughts?

Thanks

hi i was wondering if someone can help me on a rue extraction.

i have posted here
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=47074

but didn't realise this sticky existed.

basically i think i cocked up.

apparently i have been adding way too much lye mixture to get my alkaloids to preticipate.

i have high levels of lye in various mixtures and need it to go to a stable safe state.

so hopefully i can continue to extract.

which is the best way to carry on please?

thank you

Sorry Im unfamiliar with that tek. Maybe youve destroyed the molecules.

My query is why all these bark/phyllode extractions have an acid step first?
I would have thought a basify step would be better to break the material down and 'expose' the alkaloids , then acidify the solution now that the alkaloids are more accessible?

If your alkaloids precipitated, filter them, and excess NaOH will be in the water so you will get rid of most of it. Then you can redissolve and reprecipitate either with right amount of salt or right amount of base.

If your alkaloids didnt precipitate, its hard to know why because you made a mess at this point, sorry. As I suggested, start again, and follow the tek correctly.