So SWIM is an absolute beginner. Tried one extraction so far with ACRB. First 3 pulls used hot naphtha and only got a white film that turned into goo on the jar after freeze precipitation. Yield was pretty weak as well and the goo is active but doesn't seem like DMT from all the hours of reading he's done.

On the fourth and fifth pull SWIM just used room temp naphtha and is getting xtals that don't melt at room temp! Very excited to hopefully break through. With the goo even very high saturation infused with leaf(maybe not enough)its not working.

So the real thing is why is SWIM getting low yield goo with hot naphtha and decent yield xtals when using room temp naphtha? Seems odd but maybe the hot naptha is pulling oils and other alkaloids as well instead of mostly dmt?

Either way very happy at this point. Have jars upside down in freezer with napkins draining and hopefully making it easier to get out. Thanks for all the great info and support!

Ya hot solvent pulls more junk than room temp solvent. You ought to be able to recrystallize the goo using room temp naptha, or some heptane.

Edit: could also oxidize your DMT into goo if the naptha is too hot. If it did oxidize you'd have DMT-N-Oxide which is different than N,n-DMT so you'd be correct in thinking it was something else.

Room temp is the way to go. Hotter solvent may dissolve more alkaloids but because we do multiple pulls it all comes out eventually.

Hi,

I really appreciate the confirmation! Some teks say to do this and they even say they get xtals or nn dmt anyways not this stuff that doesn't do all that much. Recrystallizing this goo only turns up with goo.

Next run is room temp for every go. Thanks again.

Hot naphtha causes Oxidation? Wut?
What do you mean by this? Where did you learn this?

The warmer a solvent is, the more the solute can be concentrated.(more molecule held in solution)
The cooler the solvent, the less it can hold onto the molecule in solution, therefore it crashes out of solution into crystal form.

Im not sure about that. I disagree. For one hot Naptha doesn't oxidise the DMT it simply pulls other stuff along with the dmt. Here is my findings of the cold/hot NPS naptha.

At room temp the Naptha pulls mostly DMT but when heated up it also pulls other alkaloids, fats, and oils giving the end product a yellowish beige color. I've done experiments with Q21;s tek using Naptha and here's what I came up with.

With room temp Naptha the NPS preciped out pure white fluffy crystals but the yield was low. Just under 1% , When I used hot Naptha 2 things would happen. I would still get pure white crystals in the freezer but the yield was low so I took all the decanted NPS from the 4 pulls and evaped it off. I was pleasantly surprised that there was close equal amount of sticky yellowish product left behind. Here was the missing yield.

Rather than cleaning up the sticky stuff I decided to bio-assay this waxy yellowish stuff and see what I had. Happily I couldn't tell any difference between the 2 products other than the yellow stuff had a much more sweet and floral taste and smell.

I like the Q21 tek because there isn't a need to convert DMT fumerate into freebase but the yield suffers for the speed and quickness of the tek slightly. Ive never yielded more than 1.6%. However its pretty nice at times to start an extraction in the morning and be vaping pure white crystals by late evening as the rest of the Naptha evaporates off.

I think re-xing isnt at all necessary and in fact for me I much more prefer the full spectrum gorgeous yellow cystals opposed to plain old white fluffy powdery ones. I now do an tweaked hybrid version of a/b to actually increase the jungley-ness of my DMT. I want it as bright yellow/orange as possible. The smell and taste makes my mouth water just thinking about it!

So remember folks, if your using the Q21 i can stress enough to save you NPS after the pulls and evap. There is a ton of DMT that doesnt precipitate out in the freezer sometimes as much as .8% more.

SWIm always use hot naphtha for recrystallization. Never for the initial pulls though. SWIM get some pretty damn white crystals after a hot naphtha recrystallization. The goo sinks to the bottom and doesn't dissolve like the other stuff during recrystallizing.

Awesome intel.. Nice one Olympus this will no doubt be of much help many people here (myself included).

Gonna have to dry and try some of this goo I have instead of doing a re-x on it all (I just got heptane though so am eager to try out a bit of re-xing, is all gained knowledge for me hehe)

Hi everybody.

I've found warm/hot naphtha pulls left me with a bunch of goo, plus some crystals (MHRB by the way).

I've just done another extraction using only room temp naphtha & the crystals are much drier (really, not dryer?), making the product a little easier to deal with. I'll be re-xing in warm naphtha, I suspect, as before.

Personally, I'll definitely be doing main pulls with room temp & re-xing with warm naphtha from here on in.

Goo + Heptane Re-X (with a sodium carbonate wash) = NICE!!!!!

I am looking at what was a big brown/red blob that has now become some really nice looking light yellow (almost candle wax looking) crystals..

Did a small batch to test of normal xtals also which are looking really nice. Might have to use one as a seed and see if I can get them bigger..

This is the only aspect of DMT I am finding addictive lol

Lol nice Zen

Ive done what i called a hot water extraction using mhrb. I basified almost boiling water and kept it in a roasting hot water bath the whole time. I stewed the mhrb in solution for a while before pulling. When i did pull i done a succession of quick pulls and they all yielded white fluffy spice. It wasn't until the 4th pull that i let the solvent sit for a day that orange goo was yielded. I'm not sure about acrb as ive never used it but maybe try quick pulls.

Did that bring about a better yield? (am guessing the answer is yes).

Am going to be sticking to the extra heat and salt aspects in future but think I will steer clear of magnesium sulphate. Made my mix somewhat harder to work with (likely my own messing it up more than anything lol)

I am definitely a convert to heptane/carbonate wash and re-x though. The crystals are really nice looking and they dont half seem to kick (tried a lowdose and felt so very "gripped" I thought I was about to blast off in full)

Respect due

The yield was pretty bad I believe either way for SWOM. The seller has good feedback. People loving the bark. Maybe something SWIM did but a/b extraction is so easy I'm not sure what could have happened. SWIM doesn't mind goo at all but there isn't much and its not very active. Just need more to saturate the leaf most likely. The odd thing is there was no crystals or even any fluff at all when hot naphtha was used. Room temp naphtha did work though.

1.6% would make SWIM very happy. SWIM thought maybe he could weigh an empty jar then weigh the goo jar after to check weight. Maybe SWIM will do a few room temp then hot afterwards on the next extraction.

On the crystals and fluff that came out even on 5th pull they are perfectly clear/white. SWIM actually got his first trip on. Wimped out after second rip and even that was intense. infused tiny bit of parsley and sandwiched xtals in with it.

SWIM has one more 250g extraction to do. He doesn't like the chemicals around and stuff but still really wants to breakthrough. Thanks again for replies!

EDIT:I'm all over the place now sorry about that. Hopefully this makes sense.

What tek are you doing automater? whats your yield been? If you describe it in more detail we can help you better.

Made enough sense for me to feel like we are in a similar boat (even with the last 250g sat aside that needs attention lol).

I'm so glad I got some heptane (I know I am repeating myself but I am very happy with todays results)

Thick-lights tek. The only thing I didn't follow was the amounts of vinegar and sodium hydroxide, as I have a digital PH meter. I'm going to try again but only with 100g of bark and read up a bit more.

Yield is terrible but its hard to tell since 95% was goo. Didn't weight it and ended up wasting some at first before infusing with leaf. Each pull in the jar only had a small layer on the bottom and nothing on the sides. Even the fluff and one little patch of xtals crashed out but was at bottom.

I see pics of people with 250g bark yielding a hefty layer in the bottom of whatever they used. Not giving up.

Automator - I've heard some say they evap a large proportion of their NPS off prior to the freeze. Maybe this will help the yield - saturate the solvent & all that? I can't see it hurting at all.

I'm a little impatient so I tend to go for an air evap using shallow, open vessels (casserole/roasting dish) followed by a re-x. (I'll probably throw a wash in with this batch too).

In this thread there have been reports of pulling with hot naphtha leading to wet/gooey/difficult to work with "goo" and room temp naphtha resulting in dry goo with more crystals.

Does anyone think this could be due to water content?

Perhaps the hot naphtha retains more moisture from the aqueous basic phase. I've always been fond of drying my DMT-laden solvent with cooked Epsom salt prior to evaporation to avoid getting wet crystals.

I'm not really sure what happened. Should have tried a 100g extraction first I think and went regular old 10-15x water to bark. Not sure what else could have caused it. Even 1g of spice for all this effort would be cool but not even close so far. Not trying to complain though its a learning experience.

Someone else(really someone else)wants to try and I'm sick of smelling the naphtha. Going to advise on what I would do differently so hopefully everything works out better. If its still goo and barely any actual nn dmt we know its the bark.

Hello, I wrote "May cause." I was offering a suggestion. Oxidization, losing electrons to oxygen, thought of in this content as a form of decay.

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_N-Oxide
"and N-Oxide is more often described as an oil"

OP said his extract was oily. It's true that hot solvents dissolve more compounds(which I stated previously), such as plant oils, however that doesn't account for low yield. Low yield and goo are the two factors here.

"dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition."

https://www.dmt-nexus.me....aspx?g=posts&t=5456
"Heat and air movement are factors that greatly increase N-Oxide formation. When drying the freebase at the end of extraction, if heat and a fan are used, this can greatly increase N-Oxide formation."

How hot naptha might have to be to significantly affect the oxidation of DMT is unknown. I simply suggest not using hot naptha, from experience, anecdotal evidence, and a hunch.

The Automator: DMT-N-Oxide is apparently rather insoluble in Naptha (although not all napthas are created equal), so potentially if you have old or improperly stored root bark it may be that the DMT has converted over and you need to use another solvent to extract the DMT-N-Oxide. 69ron suggests using MEK, if you're curious to try. Again for clarification this is a suggestion to explore, not a statement of fact. My first DMT extraction was on poor quality bark $60/kilo, which took several months to deduce, mostly due to being limited on free time.

Hi, thanks again for the info. I did read that before that dmt oxide isn't soluble in naphtha and I have actually seen what looks like oil in the solvent. Just a tiny bit but it sticks to the jar right away then turns white in freezer then eventually goo that tastes and smells like the xtals/fluff but just doesn't do all that much.

My whole goal here is really to learn and give back to this awesome community but I don't feel I can do that without at least trying another extraction. I think I'll start another tonight haha we'll see.