SWIM posted another thread "put naptha solution on roof..." in the General and nOOb section and got some advice there (thanks!) He has since done some reading here and realized that he heated the basefied solution to very hot before adding the naptha, perhaps this is why SWIM has an oily mess? Is this plant oil or something? He used a pound of MHRB and he's got a lot of brown oily stuff, can he (or should SWIM ask) SHOULD he try smoking this? Is it gonna hurt you?

He thinks he's going to do the 'dry tek' next as a STB type tek (if he can locate CaOH) he's still got the problem of non polar solvent extraction, but he's started using hexane (bestine) hopefully that will ease the evaporation issue. SWIM likes the idea of evaporation to dryness, but it seems like that might be a problem (unless the oily mess was caused by excessive extraction of plant oils)

All advice appreciated.

SWIM was looking at his $$ in oily glop that he painstakingly scraped of his glass dish earlier and was contemplating
smoking some of it to see if it was what he was after. He licked his finger, which had a little 'oil' on it and immediately got a burning feeling, enough so that he got up and rinsed his mouth out and then wiped off his tongue with a towel. It sounds funny but SWIM is sitting here typing with a burning tongue. Any chemists know if he can start over somehow, like re-dissolve it in acid or whatever? He took a little of the brown oil and put in on some aluminum foil and tried to vaporize it, to see if it smelled like DMT (and it did) but a second later it lit and burned VERY well (so SWIM guesses it still has some solvent in it)
His tongue burns a little less now (or it's the 22 oz. beer he drank, maybe) and he's remembering how his mouth got numb when he smoked his previous batch (which he didn't have problems with except the yield)
SWIM knows that he sucked up the non polar layer when he did the naphtha pulls, is it possible to have a basic freebase DMT? SWIM knows a strongly polar salt NaOH is going to stay in the water (strongly polar) section or is he missing something?
TIA

how well will sodium carbonate work as a basifying agent?

If i were to use white vinegar for step one of an A/B tek instead of using muratic acid or something more potent, is it recommemded that i dilute the vinegar? Or am i to understand that the more acidic it is, the better?

Also please include ratios of not only water/vinegar(if any), but solution/gramsMHRB.

is it safe to use hydrated lime that isn't for pickling? swim has some hi-yield hydrated lime which is used for sweetening soil. Would any of this lime be in the final product? swim has used lye before, which certainly isn't editable, and you only pull the naptha, so wouldn't it be the same for the lye?

This is great news because I checked out lowes today and two of them didn't have any lye, and I would like to get away from using it.

Yes, regardless of what many people post on here, lye is not easy to come by. Its not just sitting on a shelf a Lowes. There are many reasons for this. The most obvious being how dangerous it is. The second being that there are about a million other products that will work just as well (for drain cleaning, not making DMT), so most stores are phasing it out of their inventory.

For this reason ive chosen to use sodium carbonate as my base in an A/B tek. However, im reading on many posts that naptha, already being a generally poor solvent, is even worse when using sodium carbonate. Suggested replacements were things like DCM, MEK, and acetone.

I hear DCM works the best, but once again, this seems to be hard to come by and Im trying to use all OTC stuff i dont have to order online or go out of town for. So im shooting for using either MEK or acetone because they are both in the same isle as the naptha and are readily available.

Could someone please explain to me the difference in tek if i choose to use MEK or acetone? Do i use these in the exact same manner as the naptha, or is there a different procedure?

And im not referring to the tek where you use an acetone wash and magnesium and all that... ive already put my bark in an acid wash so i need a solvent that i can either freeze parcipitae or evaporate.

actually lowes does have lye in some places...SWIM was able to go in and get a few pounds of the stuff without a problem

maybe in the midwest. i county i live in is #1 in meth production in the united states. so no, no lye at my lowes. if your lowes has it, buy it up quick cause it wont be there for long.

ahh SWIM doesnt really use lye too much anymore...sodium carbonate is so easy to come by..and SWIM has plans to work on some of the newer teks that dont involve lye..

can you still use naphtha with sodium carbonate in an A/B?

Where did you read that naphtha is a poor solvent? That is not true at all.
It's not really "worse" in sodium carbonate, it's just that proper agitation is near impossible with naphtha at a pH less than 13. Sodium carbonate won't get you close enough.

so what should i use instead of naphta?

swim has just tried this method and has snow globes all over 1 mason jar in freezer, but then swim MAJORLY screwed up the main jar because swim was growing impatient and not seeing the results from the first jar yet.

swim was trying to warm up the jar and naptha but putting in sink with hot water. Swim only looked away for a second and then, Well lets just say a lot of water got into the jar with the bark and naptha. Swim has sucked up all the liquid he could and now trying to evap the water/naptha off and then re freeze again, but there is a nasty emulsion / bubble layer that sucks.

This really sucks but not all is lost, the first jar is showing great signs for only 100g of bark. way better snow globe that swim has ever gotten with lye. For some reason the crystals are forming all along the top of the glass and not in the naptha.

Your SWIM should not have too much problem with the accident jar. The dmt freebase should stay in the naptha. He should just pour off the water/naptha and if he doesn't have access to a sep funnel he can just pour it into a tall slim glass or jar and let the naptha rise to the top and separate from the water. A turkey baster works well for sucking up the naptha. Keep the tip of the turkey baster just under the surface of the naptha and any water that gets pulled up into the turkey baster with the naptha will just fall right back out into the jar. The emulsion may be a problem if it gets into the turkey baster though. A syringe or dropper can get most of the remaining naptha but probably some will have to be sacrificed. If you leave the emulsion long enough it should dissipate but there are some ways to help it along (I think that someone said that salt to the water helps break up the emulsion. It is discussed on this forum somewhere maybe "Search" for it).

Did the jar that is precipitating crystals get cloudy before it started precipitating out? SWIM has noticed that soon after naptha is put into the freezer that it gets cloudy then the crystals start precipitating usually onto the sides and bottom of the glass. Sounds like your SWIM is going to have a nice batch of spice anyway, Hope so!

yeah it got cloudy, but now you know what sucks? guess swim freezer is starting to die. swim checked on jar awhile ago and saw that all crystals remelted into jar and its obvious freezer temp went up a few degrees. Looks like swim needs a new freezer or swim will have to evap nap, this sucks. It got cold enough in there for awhile but I guess the blower turned off.

If your SWIM evaps the amount down and then tries freeze/refridge precip again he might get some yield. The only concern about a total evap is that then you end up with any contaminants that got carried over. It is just convenient to be able to freeze overnight and then pour off the naptha and then let the crystals dry and end up with some fairly clean crystals right away. The product that is remaining after a complete evaporation may need to be washed to clean it up. Actually if there is enough dmt in the naptha it should start to precipitate out when the naptha gets evaporated down a bit. The good thing about a higher temp slower evaporation is that it leads to bigger more impressive looking crystals. Good luck!

Hello,
SWIM followed A/B and STB procedures with both white gas and ether (Acacia), but both seem to seperate in a few minutes from the soup and don't absorb color, nor create emultions, not yield crystals when evaporated. SWIM tried it in very small quantities to verify.

Please help him :-)

SWIM followed the marsofold tek as follows:

first off, didn't just powder the bark. Bought it finely shredded. Don't know if that makes a difference.

Used half pound of bark to start with. Halved everything else in the tek except the gallon-wine-jug suggestion.

Let sludge settle from extraction for about 4 hours.

poured off liquid into wine jug (it's still a gallon jug, but half of everything else.)

HERE'S where SWIM may have fucked up:

Prepared the lye solution in an empty plastic jug, but they had another plastic jug just like it with a similar amount of water with a few drops of juice maybe.

SWIM isn't sure if they used the lye solution, or the water. At first thought they did it right and poured out the water from the other container but then realized it may have been the lye solution they just poured out and they may have used water in the wine jug.

Added 125 mL naptha, then filled 1-gallon wine jug with water to an inch from the top: this may be important because it's twice as much water proportionately as the tek normally calls for, since they halved everything else in the recipe but still used a 1-gallon wine jug.

Let sit 3 hours, then used a baster to put the clear stuff on top into two small bowls which were then set in a long flat tupperware container with the lid closed almost completely on top of it. Didn't have saran wrap so SWIM thought glassware set inside of tupperware might work. Could SWIM just use tupperware on it's own?

Is there a way to tell if the solution used at the part where SWIM should've added the lye solution, actually was the lye solution or just water?

What would happen if it was just water?

And if SWIM did mess it up, could it be saved or is it too late?

SWIM apologizes, but has a hard time understanding the chemical concepts behind this.

if it had no lye, then the dmt is in the water+mimosa mix, and NOT in the naphtha... Lye makes the pH of the solution high, which makes the dmt become freebase. dmt freebase is soluble in naphtha but not in water. DMT in the salt form (as its found naturally in the plant) is soluble in water but not in naphtha.

A way to know if there was lye or not is by the colour of the whole mix... if it did not change colour when you mixed the water and the mimosa, then it was pure water.. if it noticeably changed colour to black or so, then it had lye...

so if it was not with lye and the water with mimosa is still there, then add the lye now and mix well, and then proceed with the naphtha pulls.

Does SWIY want to share more information of his/her procedures so as to get a good troubleshooting? Not easy to see where SWIY fucked up.

i.e.
What Acacia species SWIY used

Which part of the plant

how much lye/water/bark?

Has SWIY's source been verified to contain spices? Any idea about expected yields?