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golden teacher not showing signs of colonization? Options
 
Father Time
#1 Posted : 3/18/2013 11:35:33 PM

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hey guys i have a question for yall but first here is a little background info.

so the "golden teacher" brf jars where inoculated (in a still air chamber) the 6th of march, as of today march 18th only one jar(one on the left) has shown the start of colonization, the other two have not shown any from what i can tell.... im concerned and feel as if they should have started showing signs of germination by. so my question to you is, am i just being impatient or should these jars have showed some sign of colonization by now?

also heres a pic
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jamie
#2 Posted : 3/19/2013 12:05:28 AM

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I think you will soon see contam..but thats just how it went for me so maybe Im wrong. I would try to make a liquid culture next time and use that to innoculate the jars. It colonizes way faster that way..within days you will see it happening which make it a lot harder to contams to get a hold on the substrate.

That one jar looks okay though so thats better than nothing.
Long live the unwoke.
 
Dankity
#3 Posted : 3/19/2013 12:20:07 AM

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I agree with Jamie. If you haven't seen signs of growth yet you probably have a contam. That one jar looks like its starting up so it may just be growing slow. From what I have heard from others, golden teachers are usually quick to colonize. I wouldn't throw anything away until sure signs of contam. Best of luck.
 
Father Time
#4 Posted : 3/19/2013 12:22:12 AM

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thanks for the reply guys Smile and ok ill keep an eye out for contams, is it possible that its slower to germinate due to having a slightly higher water content? the only reason i ask is the jar that is starting to colonize already was a bit dryer that the other two
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Father Time
#5 Posted : 3/19/2013 12:44:02 AM

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also kinda weird, i fully expected the one with just foil to be the one that didnt work or got contams because it was made up last minute and had very little injected in comparative to the two with the lids Very happy i wonder what factor caused those two to slow or fail.

also would it matter if it was stored in the dark or light?
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Dankity
#6 Posted : 3/19/2013 12:52:19 AM

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Water content in the jars would have an effect. Too wet can lead to contams and too dry can lead to no growth. Depending on how you inoculated, putting tin foil lid on would help protect from contams getting into the hole you created. I would avoid leaving them in a sunny place, otherwise I don't think it matters much.
 
Hieronymous
#7 Posted : 3/19/2013 1:24:21 AM

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Yeah moisture levels play a big role, if you follow a BRF "recipe" and use the amount of water required it just doesn't work out sometimes.

Some types of verm. will absorb a lot more water than others. Sometimes it turns out way too wet. You have to develop a feel for it.

From those pics it looks the jars have 1 central inoculation point in the center of the lids.
So I'm guessing that you inuculated into the centre of the jars ?

Normally you'd aim the needle to the outside of the jars and almost squirt it onto the glass. That way you should be able to see the growth much quicker.

I'd suspect a contamination if they've taken that long though. You really want it to show signs of growth in the first few days. Slow colonisation is never a good sign.

While you are dialing in your technique it can pay to do a jar of grain/BRF that is done as normal but not inoculated. If the un-inoculated jar contaminates then you know your sterilasion needs improvement and you can then isolate that as the reason for contamination.

If the un-inoculated jar doesn't contaminate and the inoculated jars do, then your source of contamination is happening earlier in the process - at the stage where you make the spore syringe or you have a contaminated print.
 
Brock Samson
#8 Posted : 3/19/2013 3:13:27 AM

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Are you you keeping them around 80 degrees fahrenheit? I have noticed that with my jars if the temperature is below 75 or above 85 they are slow to colonize. Another thing I do is keep them in the dark. I never had great results with BRF. I currently use rye berries and have a lot more luck.
 
Father Time
#9 Posted : 3/19/2013 9:27:01 AM

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Dankity wrote:
Water content in the jars would have an effect. Too wet can lead to contams and too dry can lead to no growth. Depending on how you inoculated, putting tin foil lid on would help protect from contams getting into the hole you created. I would avoid leaving them in a sunny place, otherwise I don't think it matters much.


ohh ok, i didnt know if they needed light cycles or not
&
well the one with foil has no lid other than the foil, and the other two have 4 noc points and a center gas exchange valve the filter material is polly fill

Hieronymous wrote:
Yeah moisture levels play a big role, if you follow a BRF "recipe" and use the amount of water required it just doesn't work out sometimes.

Some types of verm. will absorb a lot more water than others. Sometimes it turns out way too wet. You have to develop a feel for it.

From those pics it looks the jars have 1 central inoculation point in the center of the lids.
So I'm guessing that you inuculated into the centre of the jars ?

Normally you'd aim the needle to the outside of the jars and almost squirt it onto the glass. That way you should be able to see the growth much quicker.

I'd suspect a contamination if they've taken that long though. You really want it to show signs of growth in the first few days. Slow colonisation is never a good sign.

While you are dialing in your technique it can pay to do a jar of grain/BRF that is done as normal but not inoculated. If the un-inoculated jar contaminates then you know your sterilasion needs improvement and you can then isolate that as the reason for contamination.

If the un-inoculated jar doesn't contaminate and the inoculated jars do, then your source of contamination is happening earlier in the process - at the stage where you make the spore syringe or you have a contaminated print.


all the jars pictured have 4 noc points, the two with lids have a silicon port and polly fill in the center as a gas exchange filter, the foil one has no lid other than foil Very happy

also thanks for the advice, i never thought about that! and yea i have a feeling the first two with the lids are abit two wet... so we shall see if they pull through... but i think im going to try the liquid culture as someone stated earlier.


Brock Samson wrote:
Are you you keeping them around 80 degrees fahrenheit? I have noticed that with my jars if the temperature is below 75 or above 85 they are slow to colonize. Another thing I do is keep them in the dark. I never had great results with BRF. I currently use rye berries and have a lot more luck.


no unfortunately my closet only stays between 71-76, and the light has been on for weeks in there :O ehh so this may be part of the problem, thanks for chiming in because that was something i certainly did take in to account!

do you think a heating pad for a cloner would work to keep the temps correct? or does it need the whole room to be the correct static temp?
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Hieronymous
#10 Posted : 3/19/2013 10:07:13 AM

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I've found heatpads to be more trouble than they are worth. They tend dry the jars out and don't really provide that much benefit.

When I started mycology I used a heatpad and had mediocre results, then I switched to a Tub In Tub (TIT) incubator and my results improved. Over the last few years I've let all my jars colonise in a wardrobe even in winter and that works fine for me. Mycelium generates its own heat through metabolic processes so even if the ambient temp. is low the temp inside the jars will be slightly higher.

I've actually found added heat to be more problematic than low temps, as soon as the temp gets above about 85 F contamination starts to become a problem.

Those temps are fine, and the presence or lack of light doesn't seem to make that much difference either as long as the jars are not in direct light.

Focus on your sterile technique and getting your moisture levels right.

As much as I hate to give Roger Rabbit a plug, I have to say his rye grain technique is excellent. If you follow his tek to the letter you will have grain with perfect moisture levels every time.

Check this site before you do too much reading elsewhere, if you follow RR's instructions from the vids on the site you will be well on your way to success and consistent success too.
Let's Grow Mushrooms

 
Father Time
#11 Posted : 3/19/2013 7:55:55 PM

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Hieronymous wrote:
I've found heatpads to be more trouble than they are worth. They tend dry the jars out and don't really provide that much benefit.

When I started mycology I used a heatpad and had mediocre results, then I switched to a Tub In Tub (TIT) incubator and my results improved. Over the last few years I've let all my jars colonise in a wardrobe even in winter and that works fine for me. Mycelium generates its own heat through metabolic processes so even if the ambient temp. is low the temp inside the jars will be slightly higher.

I've actually found added heat to be more problematic than low temps, as soon as the temp gets above about 85 F contamination starts to become a problem.

Those temps are fine, and the presence or lack of light doesn't seem to make that much difference either as long as the jars are not in direct light.

Focus on your sterile technique and getting your moisture levels right.

As much as I hate to give Roger Rabbit a plug, I have to say his rye grain technique is excellent. If you follow his tek to the letter you will have grain with perfect moisture levels every time.

Check this site before you do too much reading elsewhere, if you follow RR's instructions from the vids on the site you will be well on your way to success and consistent success too.
Let's Grow Mushrooms



Hey thanks I appreciate the awesome reply !!! And dont I need a PC to do rye?
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Brock Samson
#12 Posted : 3/20/2013 12:27:14 AM

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I would defiantly recommend to pressure cook them. With rye berries you are even supposed to let them soak in water before you pressure cook them. I have read anywhere from 1 to 24 hours. This is supposed to cause bacteria or other fungi spores to germinate. I do not know if they would actually remain dormant while pressure cooking and then start growing or not. I have never tried it with out soaking and pressure cooking them.

One of the top pieces of advice given to people starting out with this hobby is to keep everything as sterile as possible. Which Hieronymous as already stated.
 
Hieronymous
#13 Posted : 3/20/2013 1:04:27 AM

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Yeah I wouldn't consider mycology without a PC.

Some people have good success rates without one, but different houses/buildings have different spore loads so others will fail using the same methods. If you live in an old house with a leaky roof and 10 year old carpets, chances are you will run into problems.

My last house had trichoderma issues due to a long term leaking roof and the constant damp. Almost everything I did contaminated. I started spawning to bulk outside and the problem was solved.

Looks can be deceiving though, a neat tidy house can sometimes be worse than a house that looks disgusting.

If you keep running into problems a PC would be money well spent.
 
infinitynlove
#14 Posted : 3/20/2013 1:19:07 AM

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Brock Samson wrote:
Are you you keeping them around 80 degrees fahrenheit? I have noticed that with my jars if the temperature is below 75 or above 85 they are slow to colonize. Another thing I do is keep them in the dark. I never had great results with BRF. I currently use rye berries and have a lot more luck.


agreed keep the brf cakes at 80f idealy and make sure there is gas exchange (poke some holes in the first layer of foil)

Sometimes if you keep your jars in cold environments under 75c it can take upto a month to see growth.

You could be working with old spores and they are just not that viable,

Often though the spores sold online and in head shops are not that viable and may have sat around for months, this is my exp anyhow.

So i am going to give you my method that may be able to help you get the most out of your old spores and get you started with what you have got at the moment i would also like to get you to a position where you have fresh new spores without buying anything new or trusting the spores you do buy are fresh. When people ask me and have a similar problem to yourself, this is what I say to do, I could be over complicating things but it works ....

1) Acquire some potato agar from ebay and some petri dishes
2) Make up the agar (mix per ratio on packet and bring to a boil)
3) Pour the hot agar into the petri dishes it in a sterile glove box, put the lid on the dish immediately and let cool.
4) Squirt a little spore water (I am assuming you are working from a spore syringe ) onto the agar on each dish, you could make a few ml go across many agar dishes (this is what I recommend, many dishes makes the odds in your favor so you have a viable culture with no contams on at least one dish).

5) Place agar dishes in a 80 - 84f environment, ideally in a sterile sealed tub in an incubation chamber so you can regulate your temperature.

6) Assuming they will grow (you should get some growth), try to find the most rhizomorphic growth like in this pic (looks the most stringy / reaching strands)

if you have a choice, if not use whatever growth you have.

7) with a sterile scalpel or other sterile knife cut out a square.

Cool now you can drop this onto an un-topped (no dry verm on the top) brf cake or several cakes in a glove box or you could (recommended) drop this into some rye you have presoaked over night then pressured cooked for 90 mins at 15psi then let cool.

9) If you do this with BRF cakes thats it, keep them at the right temp then when fully colonized, birth them by removing the cakes from the jars, soaking the cakes for 24 hours submerged in water in your fridge then expose them to fruiting conditions, thats it, shrooms will grow if the conditions are right!



10) If you have done this with rye, let the mycelium grow through the rye

11) let the rye fully colonize but shake it up a couple of times before its complete to ensure full colonization, but dont shake it to hard, this fully colonized rye is now called spawn.

12) Make a small tray of 1:1 spawn rye and straw (1:1 is a high ratio of spawn to straw to prevent contams) to prepare the straw cut it up small with scissors then pasteurize the straw by putting it into a pillowcase and then putting into a pan and bringing to the boil then cover the pan and let it cool, so you just get a small say 8" by 5" tray or similar, wipe it with bleach, peroxide then IPA, then you can line it or not but make sure you clean the lining in the same way, mix the cut up pasteurized straw equally with the rye spawn and cover it all with sterile plastic but poke holes through it to allow gas exchange. some people like to layer the straw and spawn but with this high ratio it wont make much of a difference.

11) keep that tray at 80f for about a week

12) remove the covering and expose the tray to fruiting conditions, meaning first put in the fridge for 24 hours, then put it in a place where the humidity is about 90-95% rh (relative humidity) for trays the rh is lower, for BRF cakes its higher more like 99% rh. allow good air movement but not too much, a tub with 1/2 " holes in a room with indirect air flow will suffice, mist them daily. You could just use a big storage tub with about 4" of perlite pre-soaked with water, place your cakes on some foil and your trays can sit directly on the wet perlite.

13) you will get shrooms in about 2 weeks and bulk subs / trays in this case produce a lot more than BRF cakes, BUT the important thing here is to make some spore prints, can be done in many ways check out online.

now you can make more syringes from the spore prints ( a bit print can make 50 syringes) and these new fresh spores will be much more viable, they will produce more aggressive mycelium and the new syringes can be used for BRF cakes an you should have 100% growth from your new spores.

but with these new syringes i recommend doing steps 2 - 4 again and try to isolate a rysomorphic strand and put that onto a fresh agar dish, doing it this way you have an isolate on a dish, and with a bit of testing you can get fantastic results, full tubs with 100% of the tub covered in shrooms. you can store your agar cultures in the fridge and they will keep for months some say years!

well i hope this helps, just my 2c worth, works for me Smile

Peace

I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
infinitynlove
#15 Posted : 3/20/2013 1:27:34 AM

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good ole roger rabbits videos are on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/...=let%27s+grow+mushrooms

you cant go far wrong following them.

best of luck, peace
I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
Father Time
#16 Posted : 3/20/2013 2:00:11 AM

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infinitynlove wrote:
Brock Samson wrote:
Are you you keeping them around 80 degrees fahrenheit? I have noticed that with my jars if the temperature is below 75 or above 85 they are slow to colonize. Another thing I do is keep them in the dark. I never had great results with BRF. I currently use rye berries and have a lot more luck.


agreed keep the brf cakes at 80f idealy and make sure there is gas exchange (poke some holes in the first layer of foil)

Sometimes if you keep your jars in cold environments under 75c it can take upto a month to see growth.

You could be working with old spores and they are just not that viable,

Often though the spores sold online and in head shops are not that viable and may have sat around for months, this is my exp anyhow.

So i am going to give you my method that may be able to help you get the most out of your old spores and get you started with what you have got at the moment i would also like to get you to a position where you have fresh new spores without buying anything new or trusting the spores you do buy are fresh. When people ask me and have a similar problem to yourself, this is what I say to do, I could be over complicating things but it works ....

1) Acquire some potato agar from ebay and some petri dishes
2) Make up the agar (mix per ratio on packet and bring to a boil)
3) Pour the hot agar into the petri dishes it in a sterile glove box, put the lid on the dish immediately and let cool.
4) Squirt a little spore water (I am assuming you are working from a spore syringe ) onto the agar on each dish, you could make a few ml go across many agar dishes (this is what I recommend, many dishes makes the odds in your favor so you have a viable culture with no contams on at least one dish).

5) Place agar dishes in a 80 - 84f environment, ideally in a sterile sealed tub in an incubation chamber so you can regulate your temperature.

6) Assuming they will grow (you should get some growth), try to find the most rhizomorphic growth like in this pic (looks the most stringy / reaching strands)

if you have a choice, if not use whatever growth you have.

7) with a sterile scalpel or other sterile knife cut out a square.

Cool now you can drop this onto an un-topped (no dry verm on the top) brf cake or several cakes in a glove box or you could (recommended) drop this into some rye you have presoaked over night then pressured cooked for 90 mins at 15psi then let cool.

9) If you do this with BRF cakes thats it, keep them at the right temp then when fully colonized, birth them by removing the cakes from the jars, soaking the cakes for 24 hours submerged in water in your fridge then expose them to fruiting conditions, thats it, shrooms will grow if the conditions are right!



10) If you have done this with rye, let the mycelium grow through the rye

11) let the rye fully colonize but shake it up a couple of times before its complete to ensure full colonization, but dont shake it to hard, this fully colonized rye is now called spawn.

12) Make a small tray of 1:1 spawn rye and straw (1:1 is a high ratio of spawn to straw to prevent contams) to prepare the straw cut it up small with scissors then pasteurize the straw by putting it into a pillowcase and then putting into a pan and bringing to the boil then cover the pan and let it cool, so you just get a small say 8" by 5" tray or similar, wipe it with bleach, peroxide then IPA, then you can line it or not but make sure you clean the lining in the same way, mix the cut up pasteurized straw equally with the rye spawn and cover it all with sterile plastic but poke holes through it to allow gas exchange. some people like to layer the straw and spawn but with this high ratio it wont make much of a difference.

11) keep that tray at 80f for about a week

12) remove the covering and expose the tray to fruiting conditions, meaning first put in the fridge for 24 hours, then put it in a place where the humidity is about 90-95% rh (relative humidity) for trays the rh is lower, for BRF cakes its higher more like 99% rh. allow good air movement but not too much, a tub with 1/2 " holes in a room with indirect air flow will suffice, mist them daily. You could just use a big storage tub with about 4" of perlite pre-soaked with water, place your cakes on some foil and your trays can sit directly on the wet perlite.

13) you will get shrooms in about 2 weeks and bulk subs / trays in this case produce a lot more than BRF cakes, BUT the important thing here is to make some spore prints, can be done in many ways check out online.

now you can make more syringes from the spore prints ( a bit print can make 50 syringes) and these new fresh spores will be much more viable, they will produce more aggressive mycelium and the new syringes can be used for BRF cakes an you should have 100% growth from your new spores.

but with these new syringes i recommend doing steps 2 - 4 again and try to isolate a rysomorphic strand and put that onto a fresh agar dish, doing it this way you have an isolate on a dish, and with a bit of testing you can get fantastic results, full tubs with 100% of the tub covered in shrooms. you can store your agar cultures in the fridge and they will keep for months some say years!

well i hope this helps, just my 2c worth, works for me Smile

Peace


wow thanks for the detailed reply !!! ill have to try that



infinitynlove wrote:
good ole roger rabbits videos are on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/...=let%27s+grow+mushrooms

you cant go far wrong following them.

best of luck, peace


these are the videos i followed Very happy haha i think with less water content i would have had more success
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Father Time
#17 Posted : 3/20/2013 2:03:21 AM

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Hieronymous wrote:
Yeah I wouldn't consider mycology without a PC.

Some people have good success rates without one, but different houses/buildings have different spore loads so others will fail using the same methods. If you live in an old house with a leaky roof and 10 year old carpets, chances are you will run into problems.

My last house had trichoderma issues due to a long term leaking roof and the constant damp. Almost everything I did contaminated. I started spawning to bulk outside and the problem was solved.

Looks can be deceiving though, a neat tidy house can sometimes be worse than a house that looks disgusting.

If you keep running into problems a PC would be money well spent.


ok, ill start looking into some PC's, luckily my house is only 4 years old so i may have the upper hand for now... id rather not have to worry about contam and the pc would give me one less thing to worry about
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infinitynlove
#18 Posted : 3/20/2013 2:07:17 AM

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2jttz wrote:
Hieronymous wrote:
Yeah I wouldn't consider mycology without a PC.

Some people have good success rates without one, but different houses/buildings have different spore loads so others will fail using the same methods. If you live in an old house with a leaky roof and 10 year old carpets, chances are you will run into problems.

My last house had trichoderma issues due to a long term leaking roof and the constant damp. Almost everything I did contaminated. I started spawning to bulk outside and the problem was solved.

Looks can be deceiving though, a neat tidy house can sometimes be worse than a house that looks disgusting.

If you keep running into problems a PC would be money well spent.


ok, ill start looking into some PC's, luckily my house is only 4 years old so i may have the upper hand for now... id rather not have to worry about contam and the pc would give me one less thing to worry about


You need a PC, cannot go wrong with a PC, you know its sterile after a 90 min pc no matter what!
I am certifiably insane, as such all posts written by me should be regarded as utter nonsense or attempts to get attention in fact everything I write here is a lie !

I hope in some way, my posts and replies may of helped you, I hope you like what I have said here if not feel free to send me a none flame PM
 
Father Time
#19 Posted : 3/20/2013 8:47:45 PM

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Posts: 121
Joined: 14-Feb-2013
Last visit: 12-Dec-2018
infinitynlove wrote:
2jttz wrote:
Hieronymous wrote:
Yeah I wouldn't consider mycology without a PC.

Some people have good success rates without one, but different houses/buildings have different spore loads so others will fail using the same methods. If you live in an old house with a leaky roof and 10 year old carpets, chances are you will run into problems.

My last house had trichoderma issues due to a long term leaking roof and the constant damp. Almost everything I did contaminated. I started spawning to bulk outside and the problem was solved.

Looks can be deceiving though, a neat tidy house can sometimes be worse than a house that looks disgusting.

If you keep running into problems a PC would be money well spent.


ok, ill start looking into some PC's, luckily my house is only 4 years old so i may have the upper hand for now... id rather not have to worry about contam and the pc would give me one less thing to worry about


You need a PC, cannot go wrong with a PC, you know its sterile after a 90 min pc no matter what!

i just picked one up today, yayy!!! Again i want to thank all of you guys for all of the help and advice it is greatly appreciated and ill be sure to put it to good use Smile

- peace, 2j
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Dankity
#20 Posted : 3/20/2013 9:20:27 PM

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Good to hear! Just make sure you understand how to operate your pc correctly. When used improperly they can become very dangerous bombs Thumbs down
 
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