Yup, it's a 10ml pipette with a 3 valve rubber bulb at the top. I had to order both parts seperately. I think the pipette came from eBay, was only a few £, the bulb came from Amazon and was £5-6.

You can get larger pipettes. I've not tried one but the 10ml does the job for me in 5 litre containers.

Yes seems you have to buy each separately

valve

Pipette

Or some one from ebay UK does a package.

Yea I bought mine seperately. The package there looked ok to start with, then I noticed that they're plastic pipette tips. It doesn't say what kind so I wouldn't trust it to be honest.

Might be alright, but I still don't trust it

Good job.
I too desire such a pipette!
BTW; Maybe some have had problems with their seperatory funnel clogging and it is something that I figured would happen if I used one on a straight to base tek but, I gave it a shot anyway and got a pleasent suprise! The pre-powdered mimosa is so fine that it doesn't clog my sep funnel hardly at all! Only once has this happened and I simply took a bong stem poker and turned my sep funnel over and poked out the clot/clog with ease. I should state that I'm talking about a 2000ml funnel and I don't know if smaller funnels have smaller holes in their drain valve but mine is no wider than .5cm.
One other thing I can't resist stateing; contrary to some other advice (and I'm not tring to argue with anybody on this, I just want to say that IMO) don't use plastic if you can avoid it. HDPE2 seems OK but I used to use a HDPE2 pickel bucket and noticed that there is a slight eroding of the plastic over time. Even with just using naphtha. I've ruined a batch with a rubber spatula and a re-xtal with a plastic pipette and again with a plastic measuring cup before I finaly got a clue and removed almost everything plastic from my little chest of clandestine lab stuff.
And beheld cleaner, smoother spice with less waste crud after re-xtalization.

Hi!

I'm going to make my first extraction, using Nomans tek, but there is something, that i dont understand. The tek says, if i add naphtha to the solution, i should not shake it, just roll it, handle careful, etc, becouse if i shake, emulsion can happen. But this way, how can naphtha get in contact with the watery layers, how can it collect dmt?
My friend did some succesful A/B extractions, and he say, he always shake it, and he think its impossible to get something out without shaking.
So how should i handle it?

I wouldn't worry too much about how much you shake it. Noman's tek uses so much base that an emulsion is almost impossible to occur. I used to be very careful about how much i would shake it, but i have realized over time that it doesn't matter.

I have two questions regarding nomans tek, and this seems like the place to post them.

To shake or not to shake? That is the question.

Also, after I have collected my spice, can I go straight to changa by dissolving in acetone than evapping onto some leaf?

DoingKermit: thanks for the advice.

tigerstrike92: i think half of your questions is answered over your post

I turn the mixing jar upside down multiple times over 3 minutes, not introducing too many air bubbles. 3 minutes is actually a long time to turn the jar all the time. You get bored after 30 seconds. So walk around the house and turn the jar upside down and back the right way with every step. That way you will mix without any problems.

(wow at 2598 views, this thread must be close to being a good sticky?)

I started my first extraction, and i have some questions. Its just an experiment, so i just start it with small volumes, to know how it works, etc. I grinded the bark, and added 375 ml distilled water to 25g MHRB, and 25g NaOH. Then i added 30 ml naphtha to it, and shaken it for 1-2 minutes. After like 2 hours, just a thin layer of naphtha came to the top of it. I added 100 ml basified water to it, and added 30ml more naphtha to it, and shaked it again. Now, like 2 hours later, it looks like just 30 ml naphtha separated in the top of it, instead of teh total 60ml.
The "missing" naphtha will separate too, but i just need to wait more, or something isnt good? I should add something to the mix? Any naphtha will become unrecoverable at the first contact, and after, in the other pulls, naphtha wont disappear? I think the pH is good, i checked it with a pH paper, it turned dark blue, more dark, than the colour at 11pH (its scale is just from 1-11).

Did you add your solvent right after you mixed your NaOH and MHRB?

Not sure if it matters, but most people say to leave it at least a couple of hours before trying to pull any DMT with the solvent. I am guessing that if you don't add enough water then some solvent will then get absobed by the bark. Are you using pre powdered MHRB or did you powder yourself? Nomans tek suggests that for pre powdered you should use double the water around 30ml per gram. Which in your case would then be around 750ml for pre powdered bark.

How large is your mixing jar? 60ml of solvent spread over a large surface area just maybe isn't that deep in terms of a layer. It is always going to be difficult to remove all the solvent from your base mixture. Unless you are using a separation funnel, SWIM always has a thin layer left that he just can't get at with the turkey baster. SWIM just leaves it there for the next pull.

I think my problem is solved, i added more naphtha to it, and it didnt disappeared. I evaporated some ml naptha from the first pull, and crystals were formed, so i think everything is allright. The layers are separating fast, in like 5 mins, but the diameter of my bottle is too big, around 6-7cm, that make things a bit harder. The water:bark ratio is around 20:1, and i powdered it, from whole bark.
Thanks for the reply Awakened.

excellent thread. so many good tips

I've had a lot of success by adding in an acid base step. First suggested by Q21Q21 in this thread post number 14.

My yield went up to 1% from 0.7, a decent enough jump I feel for bugger all extra work.

I added in enough vinger to make the MHRB clumpy then added small amount of very hot water and let it stand for an hour. Afterwards I added water and lye as in the normal Noman's tek.

I generally leave for about 12 hours before doing the first pull. I do pulls 1 and 2 together then wait another 12 hours before doing pulls 3 and 4. I never do any more than 4. Mainly due to time issues. Although I should since I think I will still keep getting a decent output.

Plus the product comes out extremly white and clean.

Some pictures attached.

Do you add the MHRB mixture to the mixture of water and lye?

Unavailable for me I'm stuck with Ronsonol. On the lookout for different solvents though, so if anyone knows a good source in the UK please PM, cheers [/quote]

I use Bartoline Premium low odour white spirit, ingredients "Naptha (petroleum) hydrotreated heavy" MSDS sheet attached. I use this for the Nomans tek, freeze precipitation only as it takes about 3 months to evaporate

This tek from start to putting the pulls in the freezer takes me 3 hours and i regularly pull over 1%. Last extraction was 1.4%, but i do reuse my solvent and i also throw all the solvent back in to the mix and leave it there till next extraction. Pull sizes on 50g are 40ml, 30ml, 30ml and 20ml.

Hope this helps.

Kerboros
I've tried low odour White Spirit (heavy)...it really Sux.

Any of the lighter fluids work...Ronsonol, Newport, Zippo and Swan is quite clean.
A better bet would be 'Panel Wipe'...used all over for cleaning car bodys prior to paint spraying. Pure Naphtha and evaps quick...

Hi cyb, i have never had a problem with it mate, plus i can't really evap in my home as the missus goes bloody mental over the smell it does make me wonder how much i could get out if i used something else though!

The last panel wipe i bought turned out to be pure heptane, result. i now use this for re-x.

Hey Cyb, what would be more appropriate when using a acid base step on Nomans

Adding the MHRB mixture to the water & lye?

or

Adding the water and lye to the MHRB mixture?

Spooky
Not sure what you mean by acid base step?
Nomans is an STB.
As long as the bark and the lye/water are in together it doesn't really matter which is added to which.