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Spagyric Options
 
robertus-spagyricus
#61 Posted : 1/14/2012 7:02:12 AM

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I'm wanting to keep it quite practical here, this is towards the preparation of tinctures and magisteries. The philosophy behind it is important, but not solely for rumination.

No one else seems to be interested?
 

Good quality Syrian rue (Peganum harmala) for an incredible price!
 
Heretic
#62 Posted : 1/14/2012 9:51:29 PM

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I am extremely interested. If you do not feel like dealing with the skeptics you are more than welcome to PM me for my email address. Thank you kindly!
When Injustice Becomes Law, Rebellion Becomes Duty
 
chocobeastie
#63 Posted : 12/30/2012 8:48:09 AM

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Hey Robert,

I know a guy who has been making spygyric ayahuasca. It works very well. You only need 50 grams of thin as little finger vine to fully potentiate a brew, when such thin vine would not normally carry the brew. The spygryic process appears to double the strength of the brew.


 
Parshvik Chintan
#64 Posted : 12/30/2012 10:30:31 AM

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robertus-spagyricus wrote:
No one else seems to be interested?

perhaps some of us are waiting to hear what it is you have to say before expressing interest
My wind instrument is the bong
CHANGA IN THE BONGA!
 
SHroomtroll
#65 Posted : 12/30/2012 9:04:58 PM

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Just saw this thread now and damn what a teaser Sad

What happened to this guy? hope he posts more info
 
Parshvik Chintan
#66 Posted : 1/2/2013 3:43:59 AM

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SHroomtroll wrote:
Just saw this thread now and damn what a teaser

right?
My wind instrument is the bong
CHANGA IN THE BONGA!
 
jamie
#67 Posted : 1/2/2013 5:04:27 AM

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Salvia divinorum expert | Skills: Plant growing, Ayahuasca brewing, Mushroom growingSenior Member | Skills: Plant growing, Ayahuasca brewing, Mushroom growing

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The burn phase of the spagyric practice is isolating a condensed portion of ORMES from the plant material in my opinion. You should be doing this with an alchemical furnace..meaning it is sealed..you burn to char the same way one would with bio char..or terra prete..

Amazonians were on to this way way back. Jungle Alchemy.

Because it is done in a metal furnace heated but with no actaul flame to burn it..it burns off the hydrogen I think..not the carbon. The mono-atomics will not oxidise and flip out of m-state..so the alchemist is left with this ash of the plant that contains fully intact m-state material that can then be further precipitated from the ash or used as is etc..

This is what I suspect anyway..and also what I think is going on with terra preta. Barry Carter and others have all said the same thing for a while.

I know that some do the burn step openly exposed to flames..but I think it is possible that is a degredation of this knowledge. Just think of the "alchemists furnace"...
Long live the unwoke.
 
Ilex
#68 Posted : 1/16/2013 9:21:22 PM

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I haven't tried spagyric caapi or Salvia, so I can't speak to their effects. I have made spagyric tinctures though, it's a worthwhile process for anyone interested in making their own.

The basic principle behind spagyric tincturing is to separate a plant into its individual components, purify and concentrate them, and then combine the parts back together at the end. Alchemists consider plants to have a soul (essential oil), a spirit (alcoholic extract) and a body (the ash or salt obtained from burning the plant).

A basic spagyric would be to make a tincture of a herb (which extracts the essential oils as well as whatever is soluble in alcohol), and then take the plant material at the end, dry it out and then burn it down until it is a fine white ash, then add the ash back to the tincture.

A more complex way to do it, would be to first steam distil the plant material (for the essential oils), then tincture the plant material (for the heavier alcohol soluble compounds), finally burn the plant material to ash and combine all three together. If you get really into it, you can also separate and purify the ashes into water soluble (eg sulphates and other salts) and insoluble portions (eg the silica content and some other minerals).

For most plant materials, raising them to a temperature of 500 degrees Farenheit, and holding there for about 6 hours, is enough to render a fine white ash.
 
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