Can you use the exact same method to extract dmt from acacia confusa as you do mimosa?
Does one need more or less water, etc.?
Here is the method I have been using:
How to Extract DMT
Easily
If you follow this recipe exactly, then you will get what you want. If you choose to deviate, then your product may not come out, or will be very minimal. It is up to you to get a lot of what you want. Though there are many different methods, this method works and is very simple.
Materials:
I have included materials here that can be obtained from local stores, besides the mimosa, to make things more convenient and to reduce paranoia.
Of course similar materials can be used, such as raw NaOH being ordered straight from the internet instead of using ‘Roebix Drain Cleaner’ (which is 100% NaOH), raw heptane in place of ‘Bestine’ (which is heptane), and Petri dishes being used in place of candle jars, but once again I wanted to make a list of items which are locally obtainable for the sake of convenience.
List:
100 grams Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark, in powdered form, (can be obtained from phytoextractum.com, or similar websites). Mimosa is a tree which has some of the highest concentrations of DMT in the world. Some people chose to use whole or shredded bark, but no problems have been experienced using the mimosa already in powdered form since one would have to powder it from the whole or shredded bark forms anyway. Just get it already powdered.
1 qt. ‘Ball’ Mason jar, (can be obtained from ‘Hobby Lobby’). ‘Ball’ mason jars have measurements on the side of the jar which makes measuring a breeze.
Turkey baster, (can be obtained from ‘The Dollar Tree’ for a buck). A glass baster is safer if possibly attainable.
Painting putty knife, flat head, (can be obtained from ‘The Dollar Tree’ for a buck, comes in various colors).
Distilled water, ½ gallon should suffice, (can be obtained from any super market under ‘distilled water’ in the water section).
‘Bestine’, (can be obtained from ‘The Co-Op’, most art supply stores, or the internet). ‘Bestine’ is a rubber cement solvent. It is a local source of heptane. Naphtha (found at ‘Ace Hardware’, or any store which sells hardware materials) can be used if ‘Bestine’ cannot be found, but ‘Bestine’, i.e., heptane works better. Heptane gives bigger, cleaner crystals from the beginning without washing.
Scale of some sort, which measures grams, (a kitchen scale can be obtained at Wal-Mart for 5 bucks).
Empty candle jars (2), flat bottom, like the one shown below. Flat because it makes scraping much easier, (can be obtained from ‘Hobby Lobby’) Some people prefer to use a Petri dish, but the reason why an empty candle jar of this shape is used is because the bottom of the jar is the same shape as a Petri dish and can be obtained locally.
‘Roebix Drain Cleaner’, i.e. NaOH, sodium hydroxide, or lye, all the same, (can be obtained from ‘Lowe’s’).
A glass baking pan.
An available freezer that will need to be checked daily.
These materials do not cost that much (besides the freezer
, total around 60-75 bucks, but besides the mimosa root bark, all other materials can be re-used many times.
Instructions:
Bits and pieces from these instructions were taken from a post on the ‘shroomery’ at:
http://www.shroomery.org.../Number/10089233/fpart/1There were many corrections and misconceptions on the original, so I wanted to make the process even easier. I am just giving credit to the original mind.
To begin, take 1 qt. Ball jar, add 700 ml's DISTILLED water.
SLOWLY add 100 grams ‘Roebix Drain Cleaner’ while gently stirring in WELL VENTILATED area, preferably outside if possible. Wear old clothes, eye protection, and maybe even gloves. Water will get quite warm to touch...go slow...stir often...stay upwind...and ALWAYS add powder to water, never, ever add water to powder. The jar will eventually become too hot to even touch, do not worry about this. Note: it is possible for mason jars to break from the heat, so always use brand new ones, or use Pyrex if possible, and just be careful—do this step outside, the fumes are toxic.
When basified solution is made and clears, measure out 100 grams of powdered MHRB (mimosa hostilis root bark) and add to jar of basified water.
Place lid on jar and swirl to wet and "sink" all the powdered bark. Solution will turn a dark purple-black.
Congratulations, you just finished the hardest part, which should have taken all of 1/2 hour. The longest part of the process is obtaining the re-usable materials from various sources in the beginning.
Notice we still have room to add ‘Bestine’...LATER. For now, set aside the jar in a secret, undisturbed place at room temperature for minimum of 24 hours to allow the basified water to break down the cell walls and release DMT into the solution. Tick, tock, tick, tock...DING!
Ok...so, it has been 24 hrs since MHRB has been soaking in the basified water. Time to add exactly 150 ml's ‘Bestine’ (or naphtha) to the jar.
Cap snugly and put aside in a warm place, like an attic, or atop some warm electronics. Get jar to at least 80 - 85 degrees. Feel free to invert, roll, swirl and otherwise mix the layers together several times per day for one day...with this concentration no emulsion (mixing of the two layers, such as oil and water) will form...unless you shake vigorously, which may result in an emulsion, though it probably will not. Swirling alone works quite well. Turning it upside down repeatedly also works well.
After 24 hours, your ‘Bestine’ may have a yellow cast, or it may be clear, either way, DMT has been released into the liquid. If the liquid is clear, then you may get more pure DMT crystals. Swirling the ‘Bestine’ around the mimosa allows the heptane to pick up the DMT in the basified NaOH-mimosa solution. The DMT becomes trapped in the solution, allowing for one to isolate it.
Use your turkey baster, remove HALF the ‘Bestine’, or 75 ml's, and place it in a candle jar, and another 75 ml’s and place it in the other jar. I do not like using a mason jar instead of a flat bottom candle jar because a lot of DMT gets stuck in the indented circle which surrounds the bottom of the inside of the jar.
The ‘Bestine’ should be clean. Do not draw ANY of the purple solution into the ‘Bestine’. No amount of basified solution contaminant should be tolerated.
Do not worry one bit about the ‘Bestine’ left behind...it will eventually become a part of the process in later steps.
Cap the candle jar and put it in the coldest freezer you have. A typical freezer one may find in his or her kitchen works just fine, just set the setting found in the back of the freezer to its coldest possible setting. Freezer should be cold enough to at least freeze ice cream. But the colder the freezer, the more produce.
24 hours later, you'll have crystals, found on the bottom and sides of the jar.
Carefully pour the ‘Bestine’ back into the basified solution, leaving the crystals, which will stick to the glass, behind. Allow every pourable drop of ‘Bestine’ to exit the jar and you will not have problems with crystals re-dissolving back into any minor residual ‘Bestine’ as it warms.
Un-cap the jar and turn it upside down (either flat down or at an angle, both seem to work equally well), in the freezer and leave it there for about an hour to allow every drop of ‘Bestine’ to exit. If you do not do this, then the crystals may turn into a gooey mush, which at that point the goo must be placed back into the solution and the process of swirling and pulling and freezing must be started over.
Do not worry about the "floatie" protocrystals in the cold ‘Bestine’ solution you poured back...we'll get 'em all eventually. You can use a coffee filter to catch the floatie crystals if you wish, or just pour them back in for later.
After an hour of being upside down in the freezer, take the jar out of the freezer and QUICKLY use your putty knife to scrape the DMT off the bottom of the jar, which will be stuck to the bottom of the jar. If you do not do this quickly, then the DMT crystals may turn into goo, this does not happen every time, but it happens often enough—condensation on the jar from exposure to hot air may cause the crystals to melt. You will have to use either another putty knife or a regular knife of some sort for the scraping because the DMT will stick to the original putty knife pretty well. Do this by scraping one knife edge to the other.
Scrape the DMT onto a glass baking pan. Some people use coffee filters, but often much of the DMT gets stuck and somehow integrated onto the filter, so some is then wasted. You can also use blank pieces (not inked), of printer paper to place the crystals on in order to dry, the paper will absorb the solvent a lot, and the crystals tend not to stick too much.
If you have a painter’s respirator for this part of process, though not necessary, you will be better off as the smell of the ‘Bestine’ can get quite nauseating.
Place in a well-ventilated area, such as an attic, to let the ‘Bestine’ solvent evaporate off the crystals for a day or overnight, scattering them around from time to time to allow the ‘Bestine’ to “break free” and evaporate from the crystals. Once they are dry, the crystals will literally smell like brand new leather shoes.
Basically you will repeat and repeat the removal of ‘Bestine’ with the turkey baster, freezing, replacing, swirling, etc. several times, until the yield really drops. Please note that subsequent extractions will yield increasingly yellow product, in ever decreasing amounts. This is normal. Some people combine all powder. You, of course, may do as you see fit. But it has been noticed that different batches often produce different results. You can expect about a 1% ratio, so about 1 gram per 100 grams of mimosa bark.
As a final step, you can remove as much of the ‘Bestine’ as possible without getting any of the basified solution, evaporate down, and get the last drop of DMT.
Often the crystals will look “bad” or impure, like a nasty mush, or are dark colored purple or red. If this is the case, then one will need to do a “wash”. The instructions for this have been borrowed from the DMT-Nexus in the ‘FAQ’ section and are as follows:
“1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.
2- Add your impure DMT to a shotglass.
3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure DMT to the shotglass, [or just add a bit more of naphtha/heptane/hexane a few centimeters above the DMT to the shotglass if you are not using a full gram].
4- Submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit, a toothpick works well for stirring. Most of the DMT should re-dissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom. The goo is just plant matter, fats, and oils.
5-Pour your heptane or naphtha away from the goo, put this heptane in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation [Proceed as usual].
Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evaporation, the larger the crystal growth. Naphtha evaporates slower than heptane.
It is possible that a small amount of DMT is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of DMT. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded.”
The more you ‘wash’ your DMT, the whiter and purer it gets. For me, and many others, I prefer the yellow DMT over the white, as the yellow feels more “Earthly”, while the white more “WTF! Trans-Dimensional”. It’s whatever you want, just make batches of both and experiment. Different batches often produce different effects or experiential paths.
For further inquiry or questions, you can visit
https://www.dmt-nexus.me/, where fellow travelers will be happy to assist once you join. The ‘FAQ’ section can answer many of your first time questions.
Methods of Administration:
These are just very basic summaries of various methods of administration. You should do much more research on your own. What I have given is efficient and effective enough but is not every detail.
In order to make the DMT experience last longer, since our brains process or metabolize DMT so quickly, making the experience last only 5-7 minutes, one can use ‘Syrian Rue’ or ‘B. Caapi’ to slow down the experience and make it last longer, like 10-15 minutes. Both of these are MAOI inhibitors, which block the rapid processing of DMT by the brain/body. Just do not use MAOI’s if you are already on pharmaceutical anti-depressants, and do not take speed such as excessive caffeine or especially amphetamines, as these combinations can lead to brain damage or death. The rue or caapi can be smoked or made into a tea prior to smoking the DMT. Either way will produce more of a much shorter version of Ayahuasca, which is an Amazonian DMT brew which lasts 6-7 hours. More wisdom and teaching can be gained this way because the experience is slowed down enough to remember it much better. One can straight up smoke the Syrian rue seeds or b. caapi leaves 5-10 minutes prior to smoking the DMT for this desired effect, this is the easiest/quickest way. When using an MAOI, much less DMT is needed to attain the desired effect—a low or medium dose can equal a high dose. Personally, I recommend the Syrian rue seeds, they seem stronger than b. caapi, and are HIGHLY SUGGESTED – you will get much more out of the experience than just smoking pure DMT alone.
Another method of administration is called ‘pharmahuasca’. You can make a tea with either Syrian Rue or B. Caapi, drink it, wait 20-30 minutes, and then swallow DMT crystals which were place into a gel cap (you can just empty a cap which had valerian or some other herb from your medicine cabinet to accomplish this instead of buying already empty caps). This experience is supposed to last 4-6 hours, depending on the dose. I would start out small and work my way up if necessary.
‘Changa’ and ‘Enhanced Leaf’ are leaves of various herbs such as Blue Lotus, Calea Zachatechichi, and B. Caapi (amongst many others) which have diluted and dissolved amounts of DMT melted onto the leaves, and are then smoked. Different effects are produced according to the type of leaves used. I am not an expert at all on this particular smoking method and much research on your part is required if you want to pursue these beautiful paths. Much more on this can be found on the Nexus. A good place to begin is:
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ChangaIt is highly recommended that one use a glass ‘Vapor Genie’ (GVG), which is a glass vaporizer that does not burn or waste the DMT as you smoke it. The GVG has an “in-between” chamber which melts the crystals at a safe temperature. This also avoids burning of the lungs, or throat irritations. The DMT smoke using a GVG is also very smooth and barely noticeable, whereas the smoke is usually almost intolerable, tasting like burnt plastic or the like. Burning DMT straight will destroy the chemistry of the DMT and break it down, so it will then barely work. Using a GVG will also allow one to slowly enter ‘Hyperspace’ by “working one’s way up”, by slowly increasing the amount of DMT placed into the pipe, instead of doing the DMT all at one time. The GVG is hailed as the “Holy Grail” of smoking DMT.
This is a picture of a GVG:
It can be ordered online at:
http://www.vaporgenie.co...ni4IbD2LICFUeRPAodinYAvQThe GVG costs around 100 bucks, but if you are going to do a lot of experimentations with DMT, then it is “the ticket” and is indispensable. Most pipes at head shops cost more than that.
Other materials to use with the GVG to make things easier:
A milligram scoop to measure your DMT and to place it in the pipe with its long and skinny handle (can be ordered on ‘E-Bay’ under ‘milligram scoops’. For me, 1 scoop equals a low dose, 2 scoops equal a medium dose, and 3 scoops equal a high dose.
A volcano liquid pad:
This can be used in the place of screens so that the DMT does not fall through as it is melted during smoking, thus wasting most of the product and experience. Pure DMT will eventually fall through, even if 10 screens are used. These can also be ordered from ‘E-Bay’ cheaply.
An air-tight pill bottle (which can be obtained at ‘CVS’), is a nice and convenient way to store your DMT, keeping it safe of breakdown from oxygen. Stored in the freezer is even better.
If you are only going to try DMT a couple of times, or do not have the money for a vaporizer, you can just “sandwich”, meaning putting some cannabis or other herbs at the bottom of the pipe, placing some DMT on top of that, and then putting some more herb on top of that, in a regular pipe or bong. Though this method is inefficient, it can work.
This water bottle and aluminum foil method also works really well if nothing else, and is very efficient:
(Some people argue about the safety of using aluminum foil. But it seems as though 1, 2, or occasional uses of this method is safe enough since we use aluminum foil to bar-b-que under red-hot flames for hours, so a regular lighter placed underneath foil for a mere 5 seconds should not be detrimental.)
(Copied from the DMT-Nexus, borrowed from ZarathustraMadman)
“Materials:
‘Smart Water’ bottle
Aluminum foil
Masking tape
A blank piece of paper or notecard
First get a ‘Smart Water’ bottle, the tall one. I like these bottles because of their bong-like shape. The main advantage to using a plastic bottle is that if, or when, you drop it there is no consequence such as it breaking. I believe that using a larger container versus a small one forces you to inhale much more deeply, getting to the bottom of the lungs.
Cut the bottle off the bottle.
Next get a piece of aluminum foil, and make a bowl in it by wrapping the foil around the tip of your finger.
Wrap the foil around the bottom of the bottle, placing the bowl in the center of the bottom to shape the foil before you put the DMT in it.
Then take a piece of paper, and fold it in half to create a crease, and then open the paper and lay it flat.
Put the DMT in the middle of the piece of paper.
Cut around the DMT with a knife to make the paper smaller so that when you pour the DMT into your ready-made bowl it will have less paper to cling to and get caught-up, or you could use a note-card and then not have to cut the paper.
Carefully pour the DMT into the bowl from the paper or note-card.
Place the foil on and around the bottom of the bottle.
Wrap masking tape around the foil to avoid leaks.
Find a comfortable lazy chair.
Leave the cap on the bottle and light the bottom of the bowl that you made in the foil.
Let the bottle fill up with smoke, even after that initial puff of smoke fills up the bottle, keep lighting it because some of it has melted and needs further lighting, a total of about 5 seconds.
Hit it hard and hold it in AS LONG AS POSSIBLE, like 10 seconds, or take many medium tokes within 30 seconds.
Put the cap back on if you can, and just toss the bottle on the ground or put it next to you.
You may be able to hit it a little later (the reason for putting the cap back on), if there is some smoke left floating around in the bottle.
Enjoy. Do not fear, your body is just fine.
Tell them I said ‘Hi,’ and to come and visit me.
Some notes:
Music playing lets you know that you are still alive in case you believe that you have died, but I find it a little harder to leave Earth with music playing.
I use a combination of a black and a red light most of the time, but it does seem like I go further with a regular light on. Outside in the sunlight is the ultimate, just make sure that no strangers walk up on you
Research shows that DMT affects the retinas, so lighting is crucial. You may want to experiment with different amounts or kinds of lighting, if you even notice the lighting at all.”
Meditate before you venture, take it seriously, use it as medicinal—it is good psychotherapy if needed. Realize that you, the Earth, others, and the Universe are all one and the same process. Then take that knowledge back to become, as you already are, one with nature.
Peace, Love, and Light!
Meditate before you venture, take it seriously, use it as medicinal—it is good psychotherapy if needed. Realize that you, the Earth, others, and the Universe are all one and the same process. Then take that knowledge back to become, as you already are, one with nature. Eternity in every moment. Divinity in every particle. All is one organism.