Limonene is the racemic mixture of L-Limonene and D-Limonene.

hey all

any idea where i can buy Sodium Hydroxide and Shellite?

thanks

Anybody have any idea of where to find DCM, Di-Ethyl Ether or Chloroform in Canada?(Or where one would find these in any country?). Or some other Non-Polar organic solvent that freebase harmalas are reasonably soluble in? I already have nearly every other solvent polar or non-polar, but I am looking at trying a side by side comparison of a dry methanol soak of ground rue as polar solvent compared to a basic solution of NaOH and ground rue and non-polar solvent. I am having trouble finding a decent non-polar solvent.

Now if harmalas were mildly soluble in something like xylene or toluene could I just use an excess of one of these and then just salt out the harmalas with FASW, FASA or FASI? If I found DCM can it be salted?


I don't mind full spectrum alkaloids. I am mostly trying to find a way around the days of decanting and vacuum filtering that goes along with the standard methods. As currently I cringe when I start running out of harmalas.

Also what do you think the required dosage for the full spectrum alkaloids from a methanol soak would be to achieve full inhibition? Would 300mg. suffice for a pharma you think?




Thanks
Any help is appreciated

x

Hi guys,

I've some problem to find Naphta in my country...

So, is this naphtha ?
• Essence F
Hydrocarbures paraffiniques en C7, C8 et C9 : 65à85%.
Hydrocarbures alicycliques en C7, C8 et C9 : 20à25%.
Hydrocarbures benzéniques (toluène, xylènes, éthylbenzène < 0,1 %...) : < 14 %.

Thanks for reading.

Best regards.

ILoop.

Thanks

Hi,

I did an evap test on a solvent which contains:

C7-9 Aliphatics
Hydrocarbons, C7-C9, n-alkanes, isoalkanes, cyclics
Naphtha (petroleum), hydrotreated light

Picture of the test
Evap test picture

I used a small mirror to evaporate from. As you can see on the right the 'residu' is barely visible, only at an angle and in bright light. Even then only thing visible is a line where the solvent-drop 'edge' was. I presume this is from the fats(fingerprints and such)?
Is this solvent safe to use?

Thanks in advance

hey viking, you're looking for resinbond - 100% methylene chloride (dcm). its a acrylic cement and should be available at most sign shops. i live in a suburb and i found it 1/2 an hour.

supposedly, diethyl ether can be gleamed from quick start fluid buy cleaning it with water via a separation. i dont know how clean that is, and considering how explosive ether is i would avoid it. dcm is much safer and has a low bp.

oh yeah, anybody know of a relatively pure sulfuric acid drain cleaner in the usa? preferable clear, not thickened, and preferably above 90%? i know you can boil your sulfuric acid to purify it, but id rather not do that if i dont have to. sounds dodgy.

ie, that looks clean to me, but i cant exactly see it totally clearly. what ive done before is wait longer than 30 mins. sometimes things like water can linger longer than the original solvent. Wait a couple hours - or better yet, evaporate more solvent! if you have something like a double shot glass, that helps since a larger volume is evaporating onto a smaller spot. if you try that and after a few hrs you still have a verifiable residue of any kind, id say abandon it.

honestly, if it were me, i wouldnt use it based simply on those being the ingredients - its a pretty vague list.

You can actually buy reagent grade sulfuric acid online in small quantities from select vendors and have it shipped to residential address without a business chem license. Just search around on google.


DCM is methylene chloride which can be distilled from paint stripper from your hardware store. Chloroform can be made with a simple reaction of acetone, water, and pool hypochlorate, followed by distillation. Ether can be made by reaction of ethanol and sulfuric acid. This is above level of amatuer home chemist though so if you dont have good chemistry experience, DONT DO IT. Stick with naptha or toluene.

Hey guys, does anybody here know where to get Naptha in Canada? I know Escort Camp Fuel was the preferred solvent before, but it has been discontinued recently I have been using Ronsonol lighter fluid, with good results, but something strikes me funny about using lighter fluid for some reason. Fellow Canadian Nexians, please help!

Hey Bud, I live in Ontario and if you've got a Canadian Tire near you pick up some Coleman Camping Fuel, comes in a red metal can should be about $20.
Hope it helps.

Hi,

I wish to begin with q21q21 tek but before i wish to know if the limonene and the lime are food grade or if it's not necessary.

Thanks

Its not necessary.

Frankly I think its rediculous when people are concerned if chems used for extractions are FCC or USP or whatever. You are not consuming it. Concentrated chemical will kill you or make you sick wether its 'food' grade or not and if you follow good practice, it should never end up in any final product. Unless you are doing analytical work that requires top purity solvents, grade really doesnt matter.

Is this an acceptable source of caustic soda or am I going to die if I use this?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/...id=1350231613&sr=8-1

I was in a £ shop in weybiza (Weymouth) and I found some drain cleaner which was 90% caustic soda. Is this ok to use or is it available pure somewhere else?

ronsonol lighter fluid ( the yellow bottles) work well for me in canada

Hey all, was trying to get though this thread, but my phone is starting to hurt my eyes. Is this Coleman fuel suitable?

*Cyclohexane, CAS # 110-82-7, OSHA-300 ppm, ACGIH-300 ppm
*Nonane, CAS # 111-84-2, ACGIH-200 ppm
*Octane, CAS # 111-65-9, OSHA-400 ppm, ACGIH-300 ppm
*Heptane, CAS # 142-82-5, OSHA-500 ppm, ACGIH-400 ppm
*Pentane, CAS # 109-66-0, OSHA-1000 ppm, ACGIH-600 ppm

I did an scrap test and it seemed clear but then put it in extraction and have stringy white things on my newly formed xtals,, and what looks like a residue around the plate. I hope I didn't mess my spice up. If it isn't suitable, is there a way I can recover my spice, or is it trash ?

I know of a successful extraction using colmans. The xtals actually looked pretty good. The residue is most likely spice in goo form...it can be dried with a fan and scraped or Re-xed
Hope this helps.

OK I really need to ask this. You're not supposed to use any naphtha that has a rust inhibitor, but the coleman fuel I've heard people recommend says that it has rust inhibitor. See the picture on this page:
http://www.paddlinginstr...colman-camping-fuel.html
Plus it has all this other stuff: cyclohexane, nonane, octane, heptane, and pentane.
*Edit: Just realized that "naphtha" is indeed a combination of these sorts of compounds.
Here's the MSDS on the Coleman Camp Fuel http://www.coleman.com/u...pport/Safety/lantern.pdf ...sorry I don't speak chemist, but I remember someone in the forum saying not to use stuff that has "rust inhibitor" yet the outside of the coleman camp fuel cans say, "Coleman specified rust inhibitor for corrosion protection"

What the heck can a person use in California that will get the job done?!? Where do you get it?

DRAIN CLEANER

Anyone use Instant Power Hair & Grease Drain Opener as a base? Is it OK to use?
Check out the product page and the MSDS:
http://www.scotchcorp.co...grease-drain-opener.html
http://www.scotchcorp.co...loads/MSDS%201969-70.pdf

Does the MSDS have to list other minor adulturants? Or are they allowed to omit certain things from the ingredients in the MSDS? I'm hoping the three ingredients listed in the MSDS are the only ingredients contained in the product.