Hey all, SWIM just got all his supplies to start his first extraction but had a few quick questions:

1) He's debating on starting with 25g MHRB (powdered), ~35g Lye (5 tbsp.), 500mL water, and 50-100mL naphtha. Would these be effective quantities? Or would doubling everything for a 50g extraction be better?

2) He had a hard time (still looking, and will order one online if all else fails) finding a glass or HDPE2 container that was skinny, sealable, and over 1.5L in volume. The only thing he could find quickly was acrylic containers...which don't seem too safe for the mixture. Is he correct in not going with acrylic?

3) For smaller extractions, can he expect a relatively smaller final extraction time (for at least the first few pulls)?

Thanks in advance!

Hi Nexus,
I have spilled a little limonene into water with the q2121 Tek and now have about a litre of water containing a little bit of dmt-saturated limonene, seems like a nasty emulsion, because the limonene doesnt't float. how do i get it out? my understanding would be the following options:
--acidify and boil down (does vinegar get the dmt back to acetate?)
--basify with either ca²oh³ or sodium carbonate and use a little more limonene to pull again

i would be very glad for an answer/confirmation

25G extraction is pretty small. Should probably just use 50G to make the extraction worth your effort, but yes those all seem like sound numbers for a 25g extraction.

I dont see why you couldnt use acrylic plastic bottles when you can use cheap plastic containers like milk jugs. Should be a safe bet.

Size of extraction doesnt really factor into the speed it extracts. It more involves the volume of liquid/temp/concentration that comes in contact with the plant material, and of course how much it is agitated during the process. Hope that helps.

Well if there is a seperate water layer from the d-limo emulsion, then pour off as much water as you can first. With the remaining emulsion, try heating up for a while by setting the container in a pot of hot water, and see if emulsion seperates out. Collect the limo if it seperates and if it doesnt seperate, acidify the mix and swirl it around for 10-15 mins then seperate out the limo. Throw away that expended limo and make the water basic. Extract that with a small amount of nonpolar solvent and discard water, keeping the solvent that now has the dmt in it.

Tremendously! Thanks.

Bad suggestion there, do NOT use acrylic for extractions. FAQ entry on "can I use this material" helps yu finding "compatibility" of substances, and in this case you'd see acrylic + naphtha/hexane/sodium hydroxide/sodium carbonate/etc are stated as "not acceptable" or "regular" at best. This means there will be some significant damage which can end up in your final product.

Also even milk jug is NOT recommended since phthalates and other plasticizers can leach from it:

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=26324

But yeah I agree with kash that 25g extraction is too little, I'd go for 100 if I were you. Dont throw anything away and nothing is lost, your dmt can always be recovered.

Yeah I'm glad I saw that after I posted, thanks for letting me know. The only reason I'm doing a 50g extraction as opposed to 100g is that I just want to do a "test run" so to speak; feel out the whole process. Plus I didn't order much root bark lol

*Deleted*

SWIM is having trouble with a D-Limonine extraction. The tek was listed on another site, but comes from DMT Nexus originally. This tek was used once with good results, and created very distinct layers which were easy to remove. On a second attempt, however, the D-Limonine and vinegar do not separate into layers. Instead they stay mixed together and a milky white layer is floating on top. On the previous attempt this whitish layer was not present at all.

Heating in a warm water bath did not help to separate the D-limonene/vinegar layers.

Also a small amount of the D-Limoene/vinegar mix was poured into a separate container and more vinegar was added, hoping that this would somehow separate, but this did not layer out either. It is just a more dilute version of what was already there.

Any suggestions for getting the layers to form?

Tek that was used (only 1/4th of the described amount was actually used):

100g powdered mimosa + 25g pickling lime (canning section of supermarket) + 100-200ml water...
...mixed well, in that order! Placed in a large french press coffee maker, let sit 5m.

+ 300ml d-limonene (must be ordered online, but it's worth it! Smells like fresh oranges, not gas!), stirred well. Let sit 1h - several days.

French press coffee maker to separate the d-limonene from the bark, poured through a coffee filter. All remaining limonene squeezed from the bark (careful not to break french press and shred hands apart in the broken glass).

Fresh limonene added to bark.

Collected limonene is added to 25ml distilled white vinegar, mixed, let separate until clear. Vinegar is removed with pipette (or other clever solution, like freezing) and dried on a glass dish to reveal DMT acetate along with other alkaloids as a sticky red oil.

@spinCycle
in my understanding you let the basified caoh3 mix sit, not the limonene inside, this can pull plant oils or other stuff. Also your extraction volume is very small and for that you used too much limonene imo. My first extraction i used lime but im thinking of using naoh in the future, depending on my first extr. with it.

I had the same or a simmilar problem, a milky layer between water and limonene, in my case i did not filter all particles out of basified mix before. I seperated my layer, i.e. removed it, but kept it for its own wash later, since it may contain dmt also.
Water and limonene shouldn't mix at all. Boiling/Heating with acidified water for an hour should get all dmt out. Check pH. did you re-used the limonene? i would suggest, if limonene was reused, to spill that. the vinegar should have all dmt in it.

thanks for the help

cloudiness in the naphtha isn't a problem..it means it's well saturated with what you want. Unless by cloudy you mean darkish (as in you pulled the solution up with the naphtha). don't feel discouraged! there's a lot of little things that can go awry during this.

i'm waiting on my first two pulls to freeze precip tonight, the naphtha in each was clearish (maybe a yellow tinge) but once i blew on the jars they were in they started to get "milky". i'm assuming what happened was that you used such a small amount of naphtha it got super saturated (which is good). for future reference, you can pull up as much naphtha/solution as you want into another thinner container, let the naphtha separate from any solution you may have pulled up, then pull off the naphtha from THAT skinnier container.

hope this helps!

edit²: most questions answered by The Day Tripper, Post uppdated

i screwed up almost everything about my first two extractions. I'm left with various mixes of Naphtha/Limonene/Freebase/few particles, i plan to do the following (based on this post):
-all in one container, filter particles
-salt out with (warm) acidic water [will do a fasw/fasi instead]
(acidic water: evaporate)
-make a lime/sod.carb. paste and let fully dry (=mini-dry-tek)
-pull with Naphtha for White Crystals
-pull with IPA/Acetone for Jungle-Goo-Leftovers

Okay, now I'm trying extraction of Caapi with "Easy Caapi Vine Alkaloid Extraction Guide" and I'm getting nothing. No alkaloids precipitating out of the solution, and I've added a hell of a lot of lye to basify.
Can I really have got a batch of Caapi with NO alkaloids? Have I just not waited long enough (48 hours)?
Things are looking pretty bad right now.

Hi guys, I've got a concern with my extraction. I dried the bark in the oven for a few hours on around 50 degrees so that I could grind it easily, but I think I've actually destroyed any DMT contained within the bark. Does anyone know if I've stuffed it?

-FALSE ALARM, just finished my extraction and I can see dmt crystal appearing on the surface of the shellite-
But I'm still curious, do high heats reduce yields?
thanks,
OneEye.

Best to put it in the freezer overnight to make it brittle....

EDIT: Browsed the suppliers forum and read pretty much all I needed to...Shame that it seems like MHRB is not an option at the moment

Hello, this is my first post.. i have a couple questions i need cleared up for me before i begin my chemical journey..

1- there a specific TYPE of pH strips i need? (brand, specific names would be awesome)
I can't find any locally lower than 5ish'...
And Amazon had a good bit of selection.. But if any one here had a good experience with their strips of choice, that would be enough for me..

2- I down loaded a tek for a/b, and it seemed as though all 3 cycles of separation and the collection of it were done in 1 day.. Is that right?? And then of course patient waiting with the lye process

3-shellite , is that the sane thing as the lye process?

4-oh yea.. When heating the bark and acid water, what's a good temperature?? Just anything right below boiling.. But not to where it's steaming and obviously excessively hot??

5- my first purchase was 125 grams is 50 grams a good amount to start with for my first extraction??
Id like to get a Decent enough yield.. Nothing crazy..

--all in all..i have

-125 g Mimosa
-muratic acid
-Lye
-Naphtha
-jars/filters/funnel/glass baking pan/scale..

I'm in need of ph strips (what kind).. But besides that, with these materials, how would You go about an extraction.. Just so i don't go and waste Mimosa and or time.. Thus had been a dream of mine as I'm sure it has been for everyone else.. I want to "wake up"!!

1- pH strips are not really necessary, specially not for mimosa extraction but if you anyways want to get them, any of them should be fine. pH measuring is more interesting for other things like separating harmine from harmaline when extracting harmalas, and i'd recommend a pH meter instead of pH papers. You can get something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Ha...;keywords=hanna+ph+meter

plus some pH buffer solutions at pH 4, 7 and 10, to calibrate it regularly.

But for extracting mimosa its really not necessary because mimosa is it's own pH meter. It turns completely black at pH 13-14, which is what youre aiming for, so there's no way to miss it

2- Sure, an hour or two for each boil, you can def get that part done in the first day. I'd suggest after the third boil you leave your bark soaking in vinegar while you extract the rest, maybe if yields are low you can go back to your bark and try to do one more boil.

3- Shellite is the non polar solvent, like naphtha

4- Boiling is fine, DMT is stable in salt form at boil temperatures.

5- yeah 50 is ok, I'd say its the minimum. If you have 125g, maybe do it with half of what you have.

As for how to extract, check our wiki teks and specially dont forget to read the FAQ

Thank you! I woke randomly up at 5am to read this! I have tomorrow off, and this just made my day