SWIM has never dreamed of this dry tek working beautifully. He has dreamed however of other people having problems. He would advise noobs to try other already tested and proven tek before going to some more advanced method like that!.

But basically, if no precipitation is seen, the most likely reason woudl be that the sodium carbonate/MHRB mix was not dry enough. If it is not totally dry, then FASA won't work. One cannot judge by eye how dry it is. Better leave it till it is really dry, then mix in some dry magnesium sulphate to make sure it is totally dry. Then pull with acetone.

but what can be done now with SWIY's thing? If he wants to salvage it, it is better to evaporate the acetone. This should give the fumarates, any unused fumaric acid, and other crap. Take this stuff, mix it with sodium carbonate (to freebase it again) and repeat the process by pulling with acetone.

Thanks! I'm evaporating the acetone right now. SWIM actually did 3 different FASA extractions.

The first one was pulled with acetone after freebasing, and then evaporated to leave a very nasty yellowish residue that smelled like excrement. This was left out for a few days, then acetone was added to perform the FASA extraction. It seems to be precipitating, but the crystals look nothing like what they're described as in other threads. They look very granular, not long and thin. This could have been a result of pouring in the FASA instead of adding it dropwise?

The second batch was from acetone that sat in the same freebase mix for a few days (SWIM didn't have any fumaric acid so this is why I left these two extractions for a few days). It was dark red in hue, and didn't seem to be precipitating at all after adding FASA.

The third batch was the one mentioned above. This came from a fresh batch of freebased MHRB. It felt incredibly dry when touched, so there must have been almost no water present.

Pictures will be posted when the acetone is fully evaporated from all of the batches.

SWIM went with this tek because of it's safety and simplicity. SWIM had no idea it could become this problematic. Salvaging these pulls would be very good or else 150g of MHRB will have been destroyed and SWIM has yet to experience the amazing spice that is DMT.

One of the confusing parts of the tek was the time frame of each step. How much time should each step take? What's a fullproof way of decanting/filtering the freebased DMT acetone from the material?

Hopefully once SWIM is able to perform this tek with relative ease SWIM can develop a more detailed tek with pictures to help make this safe method more desirable over the toxic teks.

So after mixing the first and third batches with sodium carbonate, drying, and extracting with acetone, SWIM ended up with a very sticky yellow goo. SWIM is not quite sure what to do with this, as it's almost impossible to get up from the glass. Now I'm really stuck

Please help! SWIM really wants to keep using this method!

Whats the best method for recrystallising/cleaning up DMT after a naptha evap using marsofold tek.? Purity is important because this DMT will be administered IV.There is a gram and a half of material ATM so im not working with much starting material. How much dmt is wasted when you recrystalise in naptha? All Ive got for chemicals is sodium carbonate,citric acid,acetone,xylol,HCL

just recrystalize with minimum amount of warm naphtha (30ml per g of dmt, so in your first case 45ml, but then adjust in each recrystalization as the amount gets smaller), letting the naphtha in for a minute or two, pippetting it out and leaving the dark goo behind.. Then into the freezer. I would do it 3 times in your case.. Also I have no idea about IV, I personally wouldnt do it but I know there are some people that did..

Be very careful please! Make sure there is no left over solvent or other chemicals, read around a lot before! and having some sitter would be definitely advisable, so you dont hurt yourself while injecting/removing needle.

I saw a thread once of someone adding hcl dropwise to make a solution of dmt hcl salt, but I also know that dmt fumarate was the form used by strassmann in his studies..

I'll ask a pretty common question. I was thinking of a STB, with a 1 hour soak. Then 4 warm naptha pulls(5 min stir and 5 min separate). I assume that will be the same as many short agitations right?

How long does SWIM have to let acetone soak in MHRB that's been freebased with sodium carbonate to achieve maximum absorption? SWIM knows 3 washes is the norm but is unsure of how long to wait for each wash.

SWIMs got a question...

Swim used the DMT for the masses tek and left the naphtha in the MHRB lye combination for too long. Swim had done this tek before with good results... but never had tried the product swims self...
the end result was white crystals of good quality...
this time the result was a bit yellowish and waxy mixed with whitish crystals.
When the product was vaporized after washing with ammonia and dried the result was that it left a slight burning sensation in swims mouth and lips. is this normal? swim had not dont this in years so swim cant recall if this is normal?
the strength was not all that good either... about 15mg-10mg where vaporized just to get an idea...
does swim need to wash the crystals again with ammonia or do a recrystallization?

SWim has defintely noticed that the longer one keeps the nap in the mark the more yellowish the nap gets as well as the spice...
if one does quick and multiple pulls with warm nap the whiter and cleaner the crystals. they are also less harsh on the throat and mouth when smoking... or so swim heard from a FOAF...

I've studied the A/B and the STB methods. Which one is easier for a first timer?

Thanks.

STB is the easiest method...SWIM can go from root bark to crystals in three hours(not all the crystals..but a smokeable amount)
with a 50g batch he can get about 150mg in three hours..this is even including the freeze precipitation..
it takes about 20-30 minutes to grind the bark and make the lye/water solution..and then he puts in the solvent..and stirs around for 20 minutes..and then pours that off..and then puts it in the freezer..and WWAM..2.5 hours later crystals

Oh wow! That is fast.

Thanks.

Most all of the DMT teks out there involve the use of sodium hydroxide, usually in the form of Red Devil Lye. However, most of the teks out there are a few years old and after a little research ive found that Red Devil was taken off of most shelves years ago. Not only that, but the purchasing of most any sodium hydroxide contaning agent is monitored due to its use in the production of meth. That being said, what are most people using nowadays for the basification step in most teks? Are there other products out there? Has anyone ordered it online? Any input would be appreciated.

Check out the Mescaline or Bufotenin extraction TEKS. The current cutting edge was developed by 69Ron and others and uses Calcium Hydroxide "Pickling Lime". The powdered plant material is mixed with about 1/4 the weight in calcium hydroxide and just enough water is added to make it moist. The reaction will give off an ammonia smell. A solvent that the freebase is soluble in is then added. If it is dmt freebase then naptha could be used for the wash and then be freeze precipitated.

So in a STB DMT Tek, calcium hrdroxide could be used completely in place of Lye or sodium hydroxide? Is there an easy form of CaHO to come by? And also what about potassium hydroxide? ive heard that is a suitable replacement as well. Is that still a usuable substitue or is that information outdated? If so, what forms of it are easily purchasable?

Yes, calcium hydroxide completely replaces any other basifying agent. Calcium hydroxide is available as "Pickling Lime" or "slaked lime" etc. sometimes it's hard to find in stores but it is used for canning and is readily available online. Sodium Carbonate (Washing Soda)is supposed to work also but many people don't have success with it. Haven't heard any reports about Potassium hydroxide..

Are thier any links available to Teks wich directly deal with calcium hydroxide? SWIM was wondering about the exactly weights and procedures involved.

Don't think that one has been completely written up for dmt yet. The thing with calcium hydroxide is that you use minimal water, just enough to make the powdered plant material moist and then let is sit for 5-10 minutes to react. The water is all taken up in the reaction and none is left to absorb any freebase leaving all the freebase to be absorbed by the solvent giving optimal yields. The TEK would go something like this.
1. Add 25 gr calcium hydroxide to 100 gr powdered MHRB.
2. Add just enough water to the powdered mix to make it wet but not watery (approximately 300 ml) and mix well. Let the mix sit for 5-10 minutes to let react.
3. Add 300 ml of solvent (Naptha), mix well and let sit for several hours. Warm naptha will absorb more freebase than cold naptha.
4. Filter off the Naptha and put it into the freezer over night. Crystal freebase dmt should precipitate out. The naptha can then be poured off and the crystals dried. The naptha could then be used to wash the plant material again or evaporated to get the remaining dmt from it. It's possible that the naptha may need to be partially evaporated before freeze precipitating. The plant material should be washed at least two times, maybe more.
SWIM has not actually used this TEK yet since he still has lye but it could possibly be the best TEK yet.

SWIM read in other posts that ammonia is suitable for use as a base. How true is this? Pro/Cons?