Alright, I'll try each step in the wiki one at a time. I understand 1 lb would yield a lot, so if the naptha does separate and I get to pull again, do you recommend I add more and try for a 3rd pull?

Thanks

If all else fails I would add more naphtha

I am wondering what to do with the gunk that is left behind after doing a re-x with warm naphtha. It seems like there is quite a bit of waxy stuff being left behind. It is sparkly and still has that dmt smell, which leads me to believe that it is still active. I have yellow wax from an stb, white wax from an a/b, and tan wax as well. I melted it on tinfoil and it smells like dmt and ass.

Should I try and redissolve it in warm naptha again or maybe try it with another solvent? It would be a pity to toss it if there are still actives in there.

Thanks

sorry for being new to all the terms flying around but what is changa and how do i obtain?

i take all my leftovers from a Re-x and dissolve in some fumaric acid water, filter, and use it as a tincture for boosters while under pharma style! works great! hard to know potency so its best used for boosters, not as the primary dose.

I was just about to move this and someone beat me to it.

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_DMT_be_IVed.3F

Digest Yourself,

When will you finally just READ the FAQ? This has been the so many'th time that your post end up in this thread that you are seriously testing our patience here.

The next time I will just ban you from this forum to FORCE you to do the reading yourself and finally start helping yourself.


Kind regards,

The Traveler

Using noman's tek, if everything goes perfectly about how much spice should i yield from a pound of mhrb before recrystallization ?

I know there are several solvents that will work for making changa. I'm about to make some for my first time. I'm dissolving freebase DMT and caapi alks. I'd like to know what everyone's preferences are and for what reasons.

I found the most helpful information here:
A Guide to DMT Enhanced Leaf (from The DMT Handbook)


Food-grade products seem to be preferred, or anything high-grade if that is not possible. Isopropyl is not recommended for harmalas as they don't dissolve well into it, but I am unsure of how each would react with caapi. Should be available on the forum through some more searches, but look through the Changa section or some Teks.

I love using acetone, it evaporates the quickest in my experience. The freebase dmt pretty much instantaneously dissolves into any of those aforementioned three solvents, but I've always had trouble dissolving the harmalas from rue or caapi. I don't even mess around with freebasing harmalas anymore when you can just do a 10x boost to the caapi leaves.

I did this for the first time last weekend and woah! The difference is definitely notable. Way more spiritually guided and smooth, gentle and lengthened. If I recall my 1g of caapi leaves weighed closer to 2.5 grams after the 10x increase, so I think there was a fair amount of harmalas added in that process. Then I combined the leaves with freebase dmt and acetone, evapped fully within 2 hours and was good to go.

Hello Chemists and or experienced A/B-ers.

Is heat necessary during the acid bath?
Does it help?
Does it hurt?

Would adding enough HCl to get the pH down to around 3 without heat be enough to convert the molecules to salts?

Other thoughts?


Update #2:
BLAB - The Big Leisurely A/B ---> Room Temp bath (days) or boil (hours)
Marsofold's Tek ---> CrockPot
Shaggy's Jungle Tek ---> CrockPot
DMT Extraction Overview ---> Heat plant material (no explanation as to why)
PanoraMIX European AB ---> Room Temp (4 days)
The DMT HandBook ---> Boil
LexTek ---> Simmer
Q21Q21's Method #1 ---> Near boiling added to bark
Q21Q21's Method #2 ---> Near boiling added to bark
Vovin's Tek ---> "Heat will break down the DMT and cause a loss in yield."
Simmered water added to bark allowed to sit 45 minuetes

Update #1:
Under the Pressure Cooker thread, it is understood that the heat is an attempt to break down the cell walls of the plant material.

In research of San Pedro, El Maestro, its recommended to freeze the cacti to help burst cell walls. Erowid Tek

Would the cell walls of MHRB be any different?
Thoughts:
Cacti have flexible cells (water bags) that burst easily when frozen.
MHRB have more rigid cells.

Hypothesis: Freezing MHRB, instead of adding heat, during the acid bath stage will provide similar yield.

Experiment:
122.6g Finely powdered MHRB (SOxxNOxxRAN...SOxxNG)

Acid Bath 1:
2.5 L dH20 at room temp (~82 degrees F).
pH ~3 with HCl (~ 4mL of Acid Majic
Let sit for 45 min occasionally stirring
Strained out large particles with Tea Strainer
Let sit for 14 hours
decant liquid
Add large particles to Acid Bath 2

Acid Bath 2:
+1 L dH20 at room temp (~82 degrees F).
+1 mL of Acid Majic
Let sit for 40 min occasionally stirring
Strained out large particles with Tea Strainer
Let sit for 1 hour
decant liquid
Add large particles to Acid Bath 3

Acid Bath 3:
Same as 2

Acid Bath 4:
+1 L dH20 at room temp (~82 degrees F).
+3 mL of Acid Majic
Let sit for 2 hours, occasionally stirring
Place in Freezer till rock solid (7hours)
Allow to melt


More updates to come.

Say a person was to have hobbies they like to have solvents around for such as Bestine. SWIM likes to use it for cleaning brushes for models. In theory could this Heptane be used in a Marsofold tek successfully? Also in theory could this be done with Phalaris? SWIM has noticed that working with those plants tends to require a defatting wash with a organic solvent, but considering Marsofold asks for two anyway, one for extraction and one for freezing, could this in theory be sufficient or should the tek be modified for considerations? Lastly could the Heptane used be recycled back into the Bestine bottle for use in other hobbies again? It's expensive stuff in comparison to VM&P Naptha!
Also I hope this was posted this in a reasonable area. If not then you have my apologies.
Thank you tons for any insight you may be able to share.

on SWIMS 2nd pull the emulsion turned into a gel like consistency whereas the frst pull has a very defined clear top layer. should the emulsion settle for a long period of time? or is it botched?

Is it safe to assume you are doing a STB?

What are the quantity of ingredients that you used? How much water, lye, bark, etc. Was the bark shredded, whole, powdered?

Did you shake the container that has your brew in it or did you flip it end over end?

SWIM Uses his own tek derived from nomans and vovins to acompany his needs. it seems the jelly like layer is slowly seperating. from what SWIM has experienced. the top emulsion can take up to 4 days to finally settle. Day 2 is looking promising will post results.

it was shaken quite vigorously which yielded excellent results on previous naptha pulls.

Does the emulsion kind of look like thick chocolate milk?

Had this happen once.

Resolution: pulled emulsion and Naptha off. Added more lye. about 3 tsp. added more dH20. about 250mL
Added emulsion and Naptha back.

Much cleaner separation.


Check it:
https://www.dmt-nexus.me....aspx?g=posts&t=5866

Shaking isn't a good idea. Flipping it end over end will work just fine and you don't have to wait forever for the emulsions to clear up. wearepeople has the right solution for your problem. More lye, H2O & more time! Good Luck!