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official extraction help thread Options
 
Glassbull
#661 Posted : 2/9/2009 4:19:50 PM
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Hi, I'm new to the DMT world and have a question about an extraction method. If I took mimosa bark(with DMT) and put it in water with lighter fluid and then took the top solvent layer off and let that evaporate in a glass dish, would I get DMT, or a hot mess?
 

Live plants. Sustainable, ethically sourced, native American owned.
 
endlessness
#662 Posted : 2/9/2009 4:39:50 PM

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Glassbull wrote:
Hi, I'm new to the DMT world and have a question about an extraction method. If I took mimosa bark(with DMT) and put it in water with lighter fluid and then took the top solvent layer off and let that evaporate in a glass dish, would I get DMT, or a hot mess?


it wouldnt work because the dmt is in salt form in mimosa. This means it is soluble in water (thats why ayahuasca works) and NOT soluble in non-polar solvents (like lighter fluid). So you would only end up with fats/impurities and no actives. To make it soluble in lighter fluid you need to add some base to the water (like NaOH, caustic soda. But be careful, it can blind you and all!) to get the pH higher, and then it works, because it becomes dmt freebase which is soluble in the solvent
 
Glassbull
#663 Posted : 2/9/2009 6:05:01 PM
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Are there any lye substitutes?
 
Glassbull
#664 Posted : 2/9/2009 6:09:10 PM
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Also, are there any good plants in the tennessee area that would work?
 
Psyckoz
#665 Posted : 2/10/2009 10:31:13 AM
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SWIM's cat doesn't wanna seem like an ass, but he's doing he extraction now and wuld really like to know if liquid lye for drains work as well.
He slowly added 200 ml of lye for a bit more than 3000 ml of water about then 10 mins ago and didn't notice any heating.
Is it still ok to add the MHRB to it ?

 
Infundibulum
#666 Posted : 2/10/2009 10:48:46 AM

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Glassbull wrote:
Are there any lye substitutes?

Depends on in which tek one wants to substitute lye. For an STB, the only substitute for lye is potassium hydroxide. For A/B, sodium carbonate or calciium hydroxide are used to raise the pH high enough should lye is not available.

Need to calculate between salts and freebases? Click here!
Need to calculate freebase or salt percentage at a given pH? Click here!

 
Infundibulum
#667 Posted : 2/10/2009 10:52:01 AM

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Psyckoz wrote:
SWIM's cat doesn't wanna seem like an ass, but he's doing he extraction now and wuld really like to know if liquid lye for drains work as well.
He slowly added 200 ml of lye for a bit more than 3000 ml of water about then 10 mins ago and didn't notice any heating.
Is it still ok to add the MHRB to it ?


What is that liquid lye composed of? If it is lye mixed with water it will be fine. If it contains other stuff (please read label), then the other stuff might be more suitable for drains than humans. Remember of GIGO rule (=Garbage In, Garbage Out)!

Need to calculate between salts and freebases? Click here!
Need to calculate freebase or salt percentage at a given pH? Click here!

 
Psyckoz
#668 Posted : 2/10/2009 11:04:54 AM
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SWIM added more lye ( 100 ML ) and go the heat ^^
He now added the bark and mixed it real good, he's gonna let it sit for an hour or so now before adding naphta.
Infundibulum, thx again for your answer btw, and the lye just says caustic soda for drains ( NaOh ).
So I guess it's really just lye.

EDIT : SWIM added 200 ml of naphta and shook it in a jug. But is it normal for the layer of naphta to be so small ?
On the pics SWIM has seen it looks bigger than what he can see in his jug even after letting it sit for 5 min to fully separate.

EDIT II : SWIM separated the realy small layer of naphta and was left with something like 80-100 ML of a slightly yellow liquid. Is it normal to only get half or less than half than the naphta previously used ? There wasn't any left on the jug. SWIM put the yellowish liquid in the freezer and is now wondering what to do : add more lye to dissolve some big chunks that were left or add more naphta to facilitate the separations maybe ?





 
Infundibulum
#669 Posted : 2/10/2009 4:22:20 PM

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Psyckoz wrote:
EDIT : SWIM added 200 ml of naphta and shook it in a jug. But is it normal for the layer of naphta to be so small ?
On the pics SWIM has seen it looks bigger than what he can see in his jug even after letting it sit for 5 min to fully separate.

SWIY should not really shake it. Just mix it gently for some time. What SWIY must have gotten is some emulsion that will take some good time to settle. Emulsions prevent the naphtha form separating forming a foamy layer on the interphase of the two layers. Just wait for a day or so for this to happen.

Ideally oen should get back as much naphtha as he put in, practically however it's going to be a bitt less.

Need to calculate between salts and freebases? Click here!
Need to calculate freebase or salt percentage at a given pH? Click here!

 
2cb-mine
#670 Posted : 2/17/2009 5:36:18 PM
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SWIM has been working on an extraction. he used noman's extraction tek to the T with 200g mhrb. his yields were only 325mgs of pure spice from 5 pulls. when SWIM used the same tek on 25g mhrb he yielded 280mgs...what did he do wrong with the big pulls? it was the same bark from the same place. He just doesn't understand.
 
endlessness
#671 Posted : 2/17/2009 6:23:01 PM

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but what about the temperature, was it different ? or how long SWIY let each pull stand or how much he mixed?

how did SWIY recollect the crystals, evaporating or freeze precipitating? If precipitating, then was the naphtha pre-evaporated to a quarter of the amount or so, before putting in the freezer?
 
2cb-mine
#672 Posted : 2/17/2009 10:44:23 PM
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Well he would mix 15mL of water and 1g of lye per g of bark. He would mix the water/lye first, and let that sit for 20 or 30 while he broke up the bark. Then he would grind the bark down to dust(as close to dust as possible) and place with water/lye. He would shake that up and let it sit for 30 or so, then put 200ml of naptha in with the mixture. he would usually let that sit overnight agitating occasionally then pull and repeat. the first time was not too promising, so he heated the entire thing up and then pulled and freeze percipitated. He tried evaporating and it never did any better than when not. the heat seemed to help when he would heat up the entire thing, but not much. He decided to try a 25 gram batch to try to fix errors and did everything just like before and got a 1% yeild. he is very confused and dissatisfied, although he did try a little out and it was AMAZING! what should i tell him to do?
 
VisualDistortion
#673 Posted : 2/19/2009 6:10:54 PM

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Does anyone know of an adhesive that i can use that is not soluble in naptha or xylene?
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endlessness
#674 Posted : 2/19/2009 7:19:24 PM

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why? I can imagine you are trying to isolate something that will be in contact with the solvent but SWIM would avoid this altogether. Glues/adhesives are many times dissolved in solvents of the sort. SWIM would just find another way of accomplishing his goals without having adhesive touching the stuff.. So what is SWIY trying to do, maybe SWIM or others can suggest work-arounds
 
VisualDistortion
#675 Posted : 2/19/2009 8:32:40 PM

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endlessness wrote:
why? I can imagine you are trying to isolate something that will be in contact with the solvent but SWIM would avoid this altogether. Glues/adhesives are many times dissolved in solvents of the sort. SWIM would just find another way of accomplishing his goals without having adhesive touching the stuff.. So what is SWIY trying to do, maybe SWIM or others can suggest work-arounds


I'm gonna use a turkey baster not a pipette. so i want to glue on a tip that is a bit finer than the turkey baster tip.
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endlessness
#676 Posted : 2/19/2009 8:42:54 PM

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Another way out for example is to crudely transfer the solvent to a thin and tall container, even if carrying some of the black liquid together. Then, with a clean baster, pull the solvent out. In a tall thin container, the layers will be much thicker and therefore easier to make the separation more accurately. The last part that cant be separated accurately, put back with the rest and add the next pull. This way it wont be wasted. Only the last bit of the last pull will be wasted, but its so little in percentage of the total yield that its no problem
 
VisualDistortion
#677 Posted : 2/19/2009 8:49:02 PM

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hmm. Great Idea. thanks
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DarkShaman
#678 Posted : 2/19/2009 11:02:22 PM

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endlessness wrote:
Another way out for example is to crudely transfer the solvent to a thin and tall container, even if carrying some of the black liquid together. Then, with a clean baster, pull the solvent out. In a tall thin container, the layers will be much thicker and therefore easier to make the separation more accurately. The last part that cant be separated accurately, put back with the rest and add the next pull. This way it wont be wasted. Only the last bit of the last pull will be wasted, but its so little in percentage of the total yield that its no problem


Yes indeed. I apply this technique to what I refer to as "the dregs". Break it down as follows: 1)In general, I usually perform a series of 100g:100g:1500mL mhrb:lye:H2O extractions in large, pickle-sized jars (I believe they are 1 gal.). 2)After my 3rd HOT heptane pull the near-exhausted mixture is added to a lidded 5-gal bucket (make sure to check the hdpe rating on the bottom) containing other "near-exhausted" liquids, A.K.A.: the dregs. Once a bucket is near full (not too full, though) I 3) add a boiling amount of xylene (equivalent to total volume's water:solvent or solvent:mhrb ratio) and 4) stir, roll, swish vigorously for 5 minutes or so. This is repeated 2-3 more times, then left overnight to seperate completely.

From this point I implement SWI endlessness's tall, skinny container technique. Using a turkey baster I seperate the now-yellow, junglistic xylene into a tall drinking glass, paying no mind to any brown nasties that may accompany the liquid. From here, using my razor-like precision skills, the xylene is transferred, via large 20-30cc syringe (minus needle), to a large pyrex baking dish & allowed to evap. I generally end up, after days of drying & when the yellow no longer has a sticky or tacky feel to it, with a massive conglomerate of pancaked-flat snowflakes crammed edge to edge. Out of an initial pull of a 5-gal bucket of dregs I once yielded over 3g (completely dry) of fresh, light-yellow jungle magic.

Recrystallizations are then generally applied 2-3x
 
goodvibes1
#679 Posted : 2/20/2009 3:00:10 AM
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Hello everyone a friend did nomans extraction with 226g of mhrb and followed it to a T. The only thing he did differently was to "spread out" the naptha by putting small amounts in many jars (about 7-Cool. None of these jars have yielded any spice, but the final pull that was left in the soup overnight yielded within 6 hours in the freezer. Should he combine them all together and evaporate it down by 1/2 or 1/3 and then place back in the freezer or did he totally botch it? Thanks.
 
super.taboo
#680 Posted : 2/24/2009 3:01:28 PM
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Hey guys. SWIM tried out the drytech extraction on 50g of MHRB. After mixing with sodium carbonate (50g), adding water and mixing to a paste, SWIM dried it with anhydrous magnesium sulphate and then let it sit with acetone overnight.

SWIM decanted the acetone, made a FASA solution (300mg fumaric acid / 100ml acetone), added it dropwise to the supposedly DMT-rich yellow acetone pull. The only problem was that there was no real visible precipitation forming, and no crystals began to form.

How long does one have to wait for crystals to form? Did SWIM make a mistake during the extraction?

Thanks!
 
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