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Is white spice possible with STB? Options
 
spiceitup
#1 Posted : 6/14/2012 1:03:53 PM

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Hi, I'm just wondering if it is possible to get pure white spice with STB. The only pure white I have gotten is with A/B...every time I do STB (my preferred method), my spice has a slight yellowish tint, even after recrystallizing. Do I just need to re-crystalize more times to get pure white, or does STB somehow stain the crystals yellow indefinitely, no matter how pure the crystals are?
 

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Mister_Niles
#2 Posted : 6/14/2012 3:54:54 PM

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I've had small amounts of white from stb, but only when evapping and then, only around the edges of the evap dish. Have you tried a dry tek? I consistently get bright white crystals (even some glass shard, but just a little) with q21q21. I use tek 2.
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InMotion
#3 Posted : 6/14/2012 4:15:50 PM
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I've gotten white crystals from STB's on a few occasions. I think the main factor is how long you wait to do pulls. If you can do them all in one day you're spice should be a snow-globe from freeze precipitation.
 
endlessness
#4 Posted : 6/14/2012 4:18:25 PM

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Yes you can get white crystals with STB for sure. If you use heat there's more chance its yellower. Later pulls too. If you let it stand for too long, the same. But you can always recrystallize to get it pure white. If one re-x doesnt do it, two or three will.
 
spiceitup
#5 Posted : 6/14/2012 4:59:55 PM

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Mister_Niles wrote:
I've had small amounts of white from stb, but only when evapping and then, only around the edges of the evap dish. Have you tried a dry tek? I consistently get bright white crystals (even some glass shard, but just a little) with q21q21. I use tek 2.


Can you give me a link to the dry teks, or just q21q21? I haven't heard about this yet, and my searches fail to produce the actual tek.
 
spiceitup
#6 Posted : 6/14/2012 5:17:29 PM

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InMotion wrote:
I've gotten white crystals from STB's on a few occasions. I think the main factor is how long you wait to do pulls. If you can do them all in one day you're spice should be a snow-globe from freeze precipitation.


endlessness wrote:
Yes you can get white crystals with STB for sure. If you use heat there's more chance its yellower. Later pulls too. If you let it stand for too long, the same. But you can always recrystallize to get it pure white. If one re-x doesnt do it, two or three will.


InMotion- What do you mean by how long you wait to do the pulls? Does agitating over 2 days result in oilier/yellower spice than doing it over a few hours? I would think that once the layers are separated, then nothing can be interchanged, so the key factor in how much spice you extract per pull (other than heat) would be the amount of agitation.

endlessness- I figured that heat was a big factor in the light yellow color I get, but I like to use a hot bath in a cooler (to keep it warmer for longer) before I put my hot naphtha in. I feel that most reactions occur better at higher temperatures which is why I do this. Plus, when the jars are hotter, the layers separate quicker so you can re-agitate more often, which I feel gives the solvent more frequent contact, thus extracting more of DMT per pull. In my mind I feel I am pulling more DMT per pull, even if my methods extract more plant fats from the mimosa. Is this correct? I have noticed that I have lost almost half my DMT in re-crystalizing though. Is this because I have extracted so much other gunk or because I am not re-crystalizing effectively?
 
Mister_Niles
#7 Posted : 6/14/2012 6:03:54 PM

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spiceitup wrote:
Mister_Niles wrote:
I've had small amounts of white from stb, but only when evapping and then, only around the edges of the evap dish. Have you tried a dry tek? I consistently get bright white crystals (even some glass shard, but just a little) with q21q21. I use tek 2.


Can you give me a link to the dry teks, or just q21q21? I haven't heard about this yet, and my searches fail to produce the actual tek.


Look at the top of the page, under the banner. Click on Wiki. You'll find extractions under the Science heading. Q21Q21 is under Dry Teks. There are a lot of teks in the wiki and tons of other great info. The wiki is your friend.
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spiceitup
#8 Posted : 6/14/2012 6:22:43 PM

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That's great, thank you. It looks like this tek is an A/B extraction, not an STB, but it looks very simple, so I think I'll try it on my next batch.
 
endlessness
#9 Posted : 6/14/2012 11:28:47 PM

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spiceitup wrote:

endlessness- I figured that heat was a big factor in the light yellow color I get, but I like to use a hot bath in a cooler (to keep it warmer for longer) before I put my hot naphtha in. I feel that most reactions occur better at higher temperatures which is why I do this. Plus, when the jars are hotter, the layers separate quicker so you can re-agitate more often, which I feel gives the solvent more frequent contact, thus extracting more of DMT per pull. In my mind I feel I am pulling more DMT per pull, even if my methods extract more plant fats from the mimosa. Is this correct? I have noticed that I have lost almost half my DMT in re-crystalizing though. Is this because I have extracted so much other gunk or because I am not re-crystalizing effectively?


Yes with heat you extract more DMT but also more plant oils. To get the best of both worlds, you can try doing the first pulls at room temperature for cleaner spice, and raise temperature in later pulls and mix for longer, to get the rest of DMT out (these will be more yellow).

As for why the loss of yield, it can be both your guesses. Can you explain exactly how you are recrystallizing?
 
spiceitup
#10 Posted : 6/15/2012 6:04:34 AM

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endlessness wrote:
spiceitup wrote:

endlessness- I figured that heat was a big factor in the light yellow color I get, but I like to use a hot bath in a cooler (to keep it warmer for longer) before I put my hot naphtha in. I feel that most reactions occur better at higher temperatures which is why I do this. Plus, when the jars are hotter, the layers separate quicker so you can re-agitate more often, which I feel gives the solvent more frequent contact, thus extracting more of DMT per pull. In my mind I feel I am pulling more DMT per pull, even if my methods extract more plant fats from the mimosa. Is this correct? I have noticed that I have lost almost half my DMT in re-crystalizing though. Is this because I have extracted so much other gunk or because I am not re-crystalizing effectively?


Yes with heat you extract more DMT but also more plant oils. To get the best of both worlds, you can try doing the first pulls at room temperature for cleaner spice, and raise temperature in later pulls and mix for longer, to get the rest of DMT out (these will be more yellow).

As for why the loss of yield, it can be both your guesses. Can you explain exactly how you are recrystallizing?


I boil a pot of water then turn off the stove, then I place a small amount of hexane in a shot glass (~10mL per gram of spice) and set it in the hot water for 5-10 minutes then add the spice to it. I agitate a little bit as the spice melts, then I let the mixture settle in the hot water for another 5-10 minutes. Then I remove and use a pipette to suck off as much of the hexane as possible with as little of the gunk as I can and put it into a clean jar or shot glass. Then I let it cool to room temperature, then put it in the fridge for an hour or two, then I move it to the freezer over night. I used to pour the little bit of hexane out once the all the crystals have precipitated out, but last time I decided to leave the glass covered with foil and poke a few holes in it to let the hexane evap off. That seemed to work well.
 
endlessness
#11 Posted : 6/15/2012 10:10:01 AM

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You're using too little hexane, that's why. Check the FAQ.. You should use 20-30ml per gram, and you should do a second small warm pull and freeze separately, otherwise your goo will have a lot of DMT.
 
spiceitup
#12 Posted : 6/15/2012 11:32:45 AM

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endlessness wrote:
You're using too little hexane, that's why. Check the FAQ.. You should use 20-30ml per gram, and you should do a second small warm pull and freeze separately, otherwise your goo will have a lot of DMT.



Hmmm, I usually just eyeball the hexane but it always seems everything is dissolved. If there is too little hexane, will the DMT that doesn't get sucked up by the hexane just melt and sit in the goo making it just seem that everything is dissolved?
 
endlessness
#13 Posted : 6/15/2012 11:35:39 AM

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Yes, a significant portion of dmt will be melted in the goo. Think of the goo as another solvent, so to say, and the DMT somewhat likes to stay in it too, but if you add enough hexane it's gonna preffer to go to the hexane layer. Thats why we recommend that specific ratio, because it's been tried and tested hundreds of times. Do another pull on your goo and you'll see, you can freeze the second pull separately because it will probably be a bit yellower
 
universecannon
#14 Posted : 6/15/2012 2:25:39 PM

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Yea I always get white crystals when I do all the pulls the same day, evap the combined naphtha down till cloudy, then freeze precip



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spiceitup
#15 Posted : 6/16/2012 4:08:06 AM

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universecannon wrote:
Yea I always get white crystals when I do all the pulls the same day, evap the combined naphtha down till cloudy, then freeze precip


When you say you do all your pulls in one day, how many pulls are you doing and how many times do you mix and let separate per pul?
 
Cannabinoids
#16 Posted : 6/20/2012 11:19:13 PM

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I did 4 pulls in ~6 hours (I have it writen down in my thread)

after adding naptha to water/bark/lye mix. Rotate the jar/jug end over end (like a backfip) 30 times @ a speed of 1 rotation every 2 seconds. So that 1 rotation every 2 seconds, 30 times.

Let seperate for 10-15 minutes or until the TOP of the black layer is smooth and not all bubbly or "hairy" looking. (you'll notice when it first starts to separate that it will have lots of bubbles then just a few bubbles then it will be flat. )

do it 3 times for the first 2 pulls.

for the 3rd one I did the same thing mixing it up except I did it for a half hour instead of 3 times.

For the fourth pull I did the mixing tek for 2 hours.

Put EACH pull in its own separate jar ( I used 4oz "wide" mouth canning jars. PERFECT for scraping out of) and seal and stick in the freezer.
 
spiceitup
#17 Posted : 6/21/2012 8:30:24 PM

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Thanks for the details! I don't have enough jars to put all the pulls in separately though. Is the reason you don't recommend doing these pulls on consecutive days because the base extracts more plant fats over time without extracting noticeably more dmt?
 
Cannabinoids
#18 Posted : 6/22/2012 2:27:53 PM

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spiceitup wrote:
Thanks for the details! I don't have enough jars to put all the pulls in separately though. Is the reason you don't recommend doing these pulls on consecutive days because the base extracts more plant fats over time without extracting noticeably more dmt?


U can get a dozen at any major grocrey store for under $10

well my thinking is that the only time dmt is pull/extracted into the naphtha is during the time the naphtha is mixing with the water/bark/lye. Once the layers are fully seperated dmt is no longer getting picked up. I imagin if I could put the jar on a automated stirrer or hand mix for 2 hours for the first pull I could pull about the same as separat pulls. Might have to add the amount of 3 pulls worth of naphtha to give the spice ample room to dorment in....then again im just really medicated so nome of this right or makes since lol.

Some one smart will chime in and correct this I hope lol.
 
Mister_Niles
#19 Posted : 6/22/2012 8:08:42 PM

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I use these for freeze precips:

Code:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyrex-Storage-1-Cup-Round-Plastic/dp/B0000CFTB5


They are cheap at wal mart. around 4 for $10. Just don't wash the lids in the dishwasher.

A friend uses these:
Code:
http://www.ziploc.com/whatsnew/Pages/ZiplocVersaGlassContainers.aspx


He's the one who turned me on to the pyrex. He says the ziplock glassware is better.
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SoulCrushingBass
#20 Posted : 6/22/2012 8:44:24 PM

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I do stb with heat to increase solubility and re x only once. I use a 1 liter erlenmeyer flask to heat 170mgs bark powder to 30mg Lye, and enough h2o to reach my level in the flask in a crock pot with water protected by rags in the bottom to eliminate hotspots, as pyrex can explode.(I've been covered in Lye once, ALWAYS HAVE VINEGAR NEAR) 30-40 ml naphtha per pull, 3 pulls, and re-x in test tubes for efficiency of my precious heptane. I've pulled red as a butthole naphtha and re-x to white like the driven snow.

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