TURKEY BASTER TIP

Not sure if this has been posted somewhere in these 70-something pages as I didn't have the motivation to read all of it, but I stumbled across a little trick when using a turkey baster to separate solvent from the basified solution. Poor sob's like me who can't get a proper separatory funnel will just need to cope somehow

At first I was having a heck of a time getting the solvent without at least a little lye juice, especially towards the last 1/4 or so of remaining solvent layer. I resigned to just dealing with the lye juice by also taking it to a secondary beaker that was thinner & taller, and hence made it easier to do a second baster-separation or decanting to rid myself of the lye juice in my third beaker.

So anyway, the trick I stumbled on was if and when you do get some lye juice in your baster when separating, stay calm and keep drawing as much solvent fluid into the baster as possible, but if all you can get is the lye solution yet you still see a visible solvent layer, keep going. Once the baster has reached its capacity and isn't drawing in any more liquid, keep the tip of the baster submerged so no bubbling takes place. Next, sloooowwwly withdraw the baster from the container. The goal is to have the very tip of the baster reach a point where it is positioned above the very top layer of the lye juice, yet still within the solvent layer so that no bubbling occurs by air being sucked into the baster.

If done correctly, your lye juice will begin falling out of the baster, while being REPLACED with solvent that is being sucked up into the baster replacing the lye juice that was previously there. This in turn, will begin thinning out your solvent layer even more, and you may find that you need to again sloooowly withdraw the baster to give your lye room to fall through the solvent back into the container.

If you get to the point where you just can't draw up anymore solvent (which is good! you're almost done!), then you can opt to either bring along whatever lye juice is in the baster into a secondary container you will subsequently decant from, or you can discard what's in the baster back into your container, and try again, only with not as much pressure exerted on the baster's squeeze-ball-mechanism so that you don't draw up as much liquid, and hence, retrieve only solvent to the best of your ability.

Now, an annoying thing with most basters is that the second you withdraw from the liquid they start bubbling out their contents if not turned quickly so the tip is skyward. This sucked, as I would lose a little bit of solvent back into the container, or worse yet, out onto the table with every withdrawal. (a negligible amount, but still a loss).. With practice, you can minimize this amount by becoming quicker and smoother with your withdrawal->rotate maneuver with the baster.

Regardless, even if you feel you saw no visible lye juice entering your solvent container, either through baster-separation or decanting, there are little tiny bits and pieces that will make it over no matter how meticulous you are. Subsequent washes or recrystalizations will always help ensure a cleaner end product.

Hope this helps someone! Safe journeys!

so, long story short, I accidentally added both 99% IPA and hot naphtha whilst doing a recrystallization. Any problems with putting the resulting solution in the freezer as normal? It's already gone cloudy.

thanks

howddddy,

im doing an ab extraction... im interested in trying "red spice" this time around. i have used naphtha to pull in the past but i want to switch to xylene. can i carry out all the steps the same way? can i freeze the xylene as i would naphtha? also must i pull out the dmt with naphtha first? or can i pull only with xylene and have a legit yield?

I'm not sure this is the right thread for this but...
would it be possible to do an a/b extraction from phalaris grass using vegetable oil for defatting, vinegar as the acid, & sodium carbonate as the base? or is an organic solvent completely necessary?

& also i know sodium carbonate can be made from baking soda easily. What temp. should i bake it at, how long, & are there any precautions i should take during the process?(lids, leaving oven door open, no smoking, etc.)

Today, I performed my first extraction using the STB method. I used MHRB powder, lye, and water. Made it all the way through the process and am now in the freezing stage. Performed the extraction with a friend but I'm in charge of collecting the spice from the 3 pull containers in the morning and really don't want to bomb the whole thing. My first question is this: We put vent holes in the 3 Pyrex containers we placed in the freezer so the naptha could evaporate out. Are ventilation holes necessary or will this hurt the finished product? From a few threads I've seen so far, it seems like "air-tight" containers are being used efficiently. My second question is: Is anything necessary after the freezing process other than filtration and scraping? (such as any wash?) I'm also going to use coffee filters to filter out the remaining naptha from the spice. Does anyone suggest a better filter? The crystals are setting up very nicely. The first pull jar is completely saturated. I wish I had a camera that could do it justice. My hunch is that pull jar number two will be best. Anyway, My third and final question is after the extraction process is complete and I have the finished spice, will I have to rush to get it back into a cool place, should I put it back in the freezer, or will it be alright at room temperature. The spice has about a 30 minute drive to get home. Do I need to get anything to keep it cool on the way? I'm trying my hardest to make my first extraction a good one and any suggestions anyone has about how I can do that from this stage will be much appreciated. Thank you all so much and I look forward to some encouraging responses when I wake up tomorrow to go filter, scrape, and reap teh spice. Thanks again, and again, all help is appreciated!

DMT is too soluble in IPA even at freez temperatures, so you'll need to evaporate the whole thing and then recrystallize again with just naphtha



Check the FAQ, no you cannot freeze xylene. You can pull with just xylene, then you salt it out with FASA or FASW or vinegar, and convert the salts to freebase (check BLAB tek, the second part, substitute limo for xylene and FASI for FASA).

If you just pull with xylene yes you have good yield, which will be mostly DMT with small amount of other alkaloids



Which vegetable oil? Also are you thinking doing the pulls with the oil? See, DMT freebase is very poorly soluble in a lot of vegetable oils, at least in room temperature, maybe even "warm". The reports that people claim to have used vegetable oils successfully, were not done with a normal A/B but rather with a dry tek and having the whole thing on the stove on low fire and keep stirring for a while the oil with the mix. Sodium carb might work in this way, but in a normal A/B and pulling with vegetable oil, I would guess a lot more chances of nasty emulsions, plus poor yield.

As for the conversion: https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...te_into_sodium_carbonate



1- Evaporating in the freezer, who told you that? Thats a silly idea, will just make your freezer smell of naphtha. Wont hurt the product (except maybe a bit of water condensation inside but thats no problem, when yu are drying your dmt, eventually water will melt and evaporate and your dmt stays behind)

2- Here's one good tip for doing freeze precipitation: https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...ystals_after_freezing.3F

3- DMT will keep fine in room temperature in short term. If you store it for weeks or months, specially if exposed to light/heat, it will get waxier and yellower.. Its still active but you can anyways just avoid it by keeping it in the dark and away from heat. A few hours or a couple of days in dark and room temp before you can put it in the fridge or freezer is perfectly fine, you should notice no degradation

First off, I'd just like to say thank you for the information. It's helped a lot, especially that link. Also, I guess what I meant to say was precipitating, not evaporating. Sorry about that, still getting used to the lingo. But I put it in front of my fan for a few hours and the first and third pull ended up clearing up, the second is still in front of my fan and will remain there until tomorrow, there's just more surface area and the film is still visible. The first and third pull together yielded 1 gram exactly of pure white spice, which I'm totally happy with for it being my first extraction. The second pull also had home VERY slight discoloring in one particular area. Man, I really need a camera. I want to post pictures of the yield and see what everyone's opinion is. I will eventually. Anyway, that's about it. I'll check on here tomorrow again before I scrape the second pull and see if there's any more info. But thanks again, between the two threads I've posted in and the info I've found just searching, you guys have been awesome and I really appreciate it.

No worries glad to help. You can always recrystallize whatever doesnt look as you want it. Recrystallization tips in the FAQ.

Also check this out:

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m..._my_spice_ok_to_smoke.3F

Be well!

I need help on exactly how to cut up fresh San Pedro cacti. Like for instance, how deep to cut the skin off, how far in does the mescaline reside, ect... Thank you. And also, flesh or skin? I've heard skin from some sources and flesh from others in terms of potency.

"I used 40g mimosa root bark"

um - given that mimosa yeilds tend to be 0.5 to 1%, (random net sources...)
this means if you were looking for 0.4 g in 3 x 150 mls of solvent,

I think I read on the nexus that 30mls of hot solvent can hold ~ 1 g of spice?

maybe you had too much solvent?

All right, hi everyone. This is my first post here, so I'll try my best to make it look acceptable enough.

Following a STB using naphtha, SWIM decided to use toluene for the last round of extractions. Once the toluene was sufficiently evaporated, it was put into the freezer to precipitate. Once the crystals were formed, the solvent was poured out, as for all the preceding batches. Then, the solvent remainder was removed by flipping the jar over and waiting for the remainder of toluene to collect at the top of the jar, thus leaving the crystals unscathed.

Once all solvent was removed, the jar was opened and let to dry inside a fridge (set on its side), as all the previous jars.

However, what is different from the previous attempts was that after one hour, when subsequent observation was made, no trace of the crystals were recorded. All of the jar's contents simply vanished. There was no trace of solvent either, the jar was completely empty. One should specify that the jars were set so that no liquid could possibly flow out. Thus, even if some solvent had remained inside the crystals and then managed to absorb everything, it would still have been contained by the jar. Had it evaporated, nothing would have been lost, as a remainder would have been observed from the evaporation.

How could that happen? Is it SWIM's fault (it probably is, considering my previous successes with other jars)? What happened? How can it be prevented in the future?

Keep in consideration that it was the only attempt made with toluene. The preceding attempts were successfully conducted with naphtha as a solvent. The extraction was made from Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark.

If any information is lacking, or if another topic is more appropriate for this kind of question, please let me know.

Dmt cannot be freeze - precipitated out of toluene - dmt is way too soluble in toluene to make it crash out in a freezer. It is still possible that you evaporated toluene to such a small amount that dmt in it was so concentrated that some of it precipitated out, but I wouldn't think it would work this way. It might be other stuff that precipitated and not dmt.

As for the total disappearance of both the trace spovent in your jar AND the lack of any residue in them, that appears as a total mystery with the information you provide...there should be some trace of something even if few drops of toluene had evaporated.

Trying to understand a few basic ideas on extraction...

When using vinegar to salt a mescaline extraction, what is the purpose of the vinegar?

you just mentioned it.. to salt.

Vinegar is acidic therefore the alkaloids become in salt form (acetates) and move to the vinegar layer. Check out the "where to start" question in the FAQ as well as links below that answer, it goes over the basics.

When salting mesc with vinegar or HCL, what is the optimal ph of salting solution?

***Edit***

I found my answer ... Between 6-7

Does it matter if one uses shredded bark instead of powdered if they just let the bark sit in the soup long enough? I just freezed 100g mhrb and broke it to as small pieces as I could with my hands. I decided to let them sit in 5% white vinegar for some time and later add NaOH and water. How long would you recommend to let them be, occasionally shaking, before first pulls?

Cl(OH)2 ???? Well a 50 lb bag of "type s hydrated lime" do the trick if not what what is best sorce for Cl(OH)2 caustic lime? In the US?

Home depot ?

Hi, first post here as I have a question about my pet monkeys first extraction, using dmt for the masses.
His ingredients were root bark, water, lye, and bartoline low odor white spirit as Naptha.

His extracted Naptha has been in the freezer over night but I can't see any crystals, only an off white paste around the sides of the jar and a white/yellow sludge at the bottom.. Quite a lot of it..

Is any of that stuff good? Where should he go from here?

Many thanks

You mean Ca, not Cl ,Cl= chloride, Ca= Calcium.

I dont know what "type s" is. What is the intended purpose of use that it's sold for? What does it say in ingredients, exactly?

Also, check the FAQ https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m....2Fchemical_OK_to_use.3F





Decant naphtha away from it, use fresh naphtha to recrystallize it (as per FAQ instructions), and freeze again. Then use FAQ tip on retrieving crystals after freezing. Let us know how it goes

Ok will do, thanks