^^ to save having to filter your nps you can cover the container with a nylon stocking, still evaporates fine and no baddies gets into your solution

wish i'd found this forum earlier, i just went on a buying spree today trying to get setup for my first try. I based my purchases on the extraction method 1 listed here
http://www.dmtextraction...mimosa1dmtextraction.htm

seemed quite straight forward, but now im starting to feel like it might be a bit out of date when reading some replies here on the forums, and to be honest i thought i had a pretty clear idea of what i was going to do, but reading people talking on here i now feel like im a bit confused, so really what i need is advice from any experienced people on any of the things ive bought that could be replaced with something better or "cleaner"
so far i've got:
50g MHRB (to try for the first time)
£5 hydrochloric acid 35% i think
£8 digital ph tester
£3 3 different sizes of plastic funnels
£2 small pipette (probably waste because way too small)
£5 large glass turkey baster
£10 3x 900ml glass jars+ lids
£3.50 pyrex measuring pouring jug (like big gravy jug)
£5 basic safety thing with goggles and gloves
£3 100x large unbleached coffee filters

still need:
£2.50 caustic soda
£2.50 cotton filter
£2.50 naptha lighter fluid
distilled water

so all in from scratch about £50 + £11 for 50g MHRB

now, the first thing i noticed is you guys talking about freezing it, which isn't done in these methods, they just seem to take the final product and evap it, so i might have to read a bit more, but generally what i would like help with is just if there is anything i should change before i start, obviously i want to do this with "nice" chemicals if possible, so i'm feeling that there may be other substances now that are thought to be better to use, for example, it seemed a bit scary to use caustic soda, i haven't bought that yet so should i replace it with something else?

in one trial they used a cotton T-shirt instead of cotton buds which i thought would be a good idea? i thought it would make it easier to ring out the sludge left after filtering, i could line the funnel and just pul it out when done and squeeze?

thought i had my mind set on what i was going to do, but being autistic im now panicking because i always want to do things 100% right and perfect to get as high a yield as possible.

Do not use that tek, thats maybe the worse possible tek you can do, your health is in danger following it.

Please notice that erowid has a huge warning/disclaimer on top of the tek with the mistakes, innacuracies and so on, which was mainly a work done by Entropymancer here from the nexus:

http://www.erowid.org/ch..._extraction_guide1.shtml


Better use any of the teks you feel comfortable with in our wiki, click link in my signature. Also dont miss out on the FAQ, a lot of knowledge there. Feel free to ask any question once you have read a bit and decided what to do.

ok thanks endlessness, i thought i was finally getting somewhere but seems like it's back to the drawing board, hopefully i can still use some of the things i bought, like the baster and the glass jars, so i shouldn't lose to much. Looks like i've got a lot more reading to do

You can use all of what you bought I guess, either in this extraction or another one.. Dont worry, your time and money werent a waste, you already started getting familiar with extractions and the products needed, so now you can read a bit more and you'll know more than ever, and for sure will have a succesful extraction. Just be sure not to throw anything away before its all finished, DMT doesnt run away unless you throw it away

Lazymans tek seems strangely straight forward compared to what i had in mind. I've used caustic lots of times to unblock drains and it seems to basically be - add the caustic/water solution to the ground up mhrb, stir + leave for while, add a load of naptha,stir + leave a while, extract the naptha, add fresh naptha to the mix and just extract a few times over a couple of days.

am i missing something or is there a more widely accepted better method? it seems to miss out the whole stage of going low ph first and seems like a very simple technique.

For STBs, noman's tek is a good choice I think

I went through with the nomans tek and it's in the freezer right now. It said if my rootbark was already powdered then to use more water (1.5x as much). I did this with 100 gs of mhrb to 1500 ml of water and 150 gs of lye. I did the naptha to match the water and lye, was I right in doing this? Im kinda nervous cause Ive fucked up a few times already.

Truth is, that "warning" to say that with powdered bark more water is necessary is not a must, or in other words, you can use the original ratio suggested in the tek even for pre-powdered bark. If you added more water, its ok too, its just a lot of water to deal with but its not a problem.

Just dont throw anything away before you're completely finished, and you'll be fine

do we have any science brains on the forum? I'm really getting into learning about the different Naphthas and what they contain, but i'm having a problem finding out the difference between
"Light Aliphatic Naphtha"
and
"Light Hydrotreated Distillate"

i'm getting the impression that distillate is like a cheaper less pure version of aliphatic naptha, which would be interesting seeing as some napthas are 100% LAN, some are 100% LHD and some are 70/30

anyway, ive bought some ronsonol which is 100% LAN and some colemans fuel which is 100% LHD, so i'll see if there's any difference

edit:
Light Hydrotreated Distillate = carbon range c9-c16
Light Aliphatic Naphtha = carbon range c7-c9

so i wonder if one is better than the other, seeing as people seem to take the products as being the same, when in fact, they have different carbon ranges

edit2:
looks like distillate is more of a kerosene with a higher boiling point and made up of LAN+other things. So I think i will stick with the Ronsonol which is 100% LAN, Zippo is 70/30 and colemans is 100% LHD, so i get the impression that LAN is a bit more pure

question regarding Noman's tek and doing a sodium carbonate wash. What it seems to say is that you take your naphtha solution, freeze precipitate it, clean it all out etc, then re dissolve it in naphtha, add the wash, let it separate and take out the naphtha layer.

So i was wondering, can't you just take your original naphtha solution and before you freeze it add the wash, then separate it? wouldn't that work? like adding a cleaning stage in between the original separation and the freezing, so doing two separations rather than one. It seems to make more sense in my head than freezing it and cleaning it out then redissolving it in the solution you've just cleaned it from.

Yeah its easy, you have to decant your naphtha away from the goo that stays on the bottom of the glass, though, before putting you let it cool/put in the fridge, otherwise you wont be cleaning anything.

FAQ has instructions. Decanting naphtha from goo is very easy because naphtha pours easily and the goo is viscous, it stays more attached to the glass.

You can probably pull some more DMT with some more warm naphtha.. Freeze that second pull separately. You can try doing even a third pull, and either it will all dissolve in the last pull or some goo will still remain undissolved.. That will probably have very little DMT, most likely some plant impurities but maybe some DMT N-Oxide too. You can always try smoking that separately, it might have some effects, but it might be quite harsh smoke too. Any polar impurities or small droplets of the mimosa basic layer which may have come across will be down there in the goo.

- Maybe your phalaris doesnt have dmt. What phalaris strain is it, grown or wild, and when was it harvested?

- Maybe you used too much naphtha and it isnt saturated enough so you need to pre-evaporate till only small amount is left before freezing

- Maybe your sodium bicarb didnt turn into carb and you need to heat it for a couple of hours in the oven instead of 5 mins

- Maybe even sodium carbonate isnt strong enough base and you need lye for good yields with naphtha pulls

- Maybe you didnt mix your pull well enough and enough times before separating from the phalaris mix (you just mentioned you poured the naphtha but not that you mixed it)

Unrelated with yield but: what kind of plastic is it that you put the naphtha in? I dont recommend using plastic, because it might dissolve and/or leech phthalates.

Why are you driving around with an extraction mid-way in your car?! Sounds incredibly risky in terms of law.

If you dont know what kind of plastic, sounds like you can have plastic in your final product. Next time work with glass, and call this a failure.

If youre in the northern hemisphere now its not a good time to harvest phalaris, you should do it towards the second half of summer. Also if you dont even know what kind of phalaris it is, theres a good chance you got the wrong stuff. Check the phalaris link in my signature and the phalaris way of the future thread and other links in that thread to learn about phalaris.

Is there a chance for that? Are there many hard plastics that can leave residue in the final product?

Wouldn't the better choice instead of glass be plastic that doesn't react with the product, as it cannot break like glass?
I just have read people saying they broke the glass due to pressure or something else.

well i didnt get an answer to my question unfortunately but swim did their first extraction and so far had 0.45g of elfy goodness from 50g of bark and still more to come

only problem was one pull the water the jars sat in was allowed to get too warm so he went from 3 pulls of beautiful white crystals to yellow waxy stuff, but it's all good and yield is great for 1st time

SJ, what is your question, I dont see any there ?

Tele, yeah sure many hard plastics can have plasticizers or leech out other things. PP is notorious for leeching oleamide and other things, for example.

I think most people have their glass break because of temperatures changing too fast, thats why when adding lye one should add to room temp/cold water, and add slowly and keep stirring as they do. This way the heat is distributed. Also of course keep the container open as the lye is being dissolved to vent pressure due to the heat being generated. Also its recommended to work in a sink or with a bucket or something under so that even if it breaks (Ive never had any glass break and ive extracted since many years), you still wont make a mess.

I'm planning on making a mimosa soup tomorrow but I'm quite confused with ratios of supplies that I need. Thought of powdering 100g mhrb and mixing it with 200ml of 5% vinegar, then let it sit for few hours shaking occasionally. Then I'd be adding 500ml water and 100g lye and let it sit for a few days to pull with xylene afterwards.

Does this sound reasonable or should it be tweaked anyhow? Does it matter if I use a bit more water (~200ml) just to get the surface closer to the edge of my glass bottle for easier decanting of pulls?

Check our FAQ

your plan gives a ratio of 1:9:1 , mimosa:water:lye.. It might work but you might want to use a bit more water, to get to a 1:15 ratio of mimosa to water. What might happen with using your proposed ratio is that the mixture is too thick and that the solvent doesnt rise to the top after mixing.

Also you are using a lot of lye, its not strictly necessary to use that much. You can probably use half of that and it would be fine. Just add enough lye to get the whole mixture jet black, add a bit more for good measure and you're set.

As for decanting pulls, sounds messy, did you ever do this? You should at least try it out with some cooking oil and water to see if you can really do it. I strongly suggest getting a glass pipette/turkey baster.

Also, how are you planning on retrieving the product from xylene? I suggest salting, not evapping, and later re-converting to freebase like BLAB tek.