How to make spiral heater for X-atomizer MOD.

I) You need:

1) Get in on-line shop appropriate for altering atomizer/cartomizer. Or do this design themselves.

2) Length nichrome wire L=36cm, d=0.4mm (R=2.0 Ohm, m=0.3g) //Possible use the wire from the other material and the other sizes, but then possible, will be necessary repeatedly to remake the spiral to obtain optimum work//.

3) Instrument for measurement V,I,R (accuracy of the measurement R must be 0.1Ohm).

4) Power source for overheat of the spirals V=2-5v, I=3-5A. (I used the source, shown on pic, but this worked with overloading).


II) Fabrication to spirals of the heater:

1) Back out of end 2cm, do bend 90 degree and begin in this place carefully to roll down (or reel) wire two fingers in ball.
Try not to compress the ball powerfully to not to damage the film oxides, which executes the role to insulation between whorl of the spirals.

2) install this in its atomizer/cartomizer.


III) Check and overheat spirals of the heater:

* The Made spiral has lowered value of the resistance (only R=0.2-1.6 Ohm) because of partial closing whorl at winding. So layer to insulation oxides it is necessary to restore with overheated.

1) For this necessary several times to connect and disconnect atomizer to power source for 2-6 seconds that spiral became hot, but did not become to glow from overweening temperature.
In pause between these connections it is necessary to measure R. It will grow and as soon as it will become close to 1.8-2.0 Ohm, follows to finish this procedure. OK!


IV) Check made device:

1) Check that your battery charged (V=3.9-4.2v)

2) Connect the meter to contact of the spirals and press the button "ON" your e-cig. Measure the voltage. It must exceed 3.4v during heating.

* For rough-and-ready estimate of the temperature of the heating possible to inflict on spiral drop to ready liquid e-liquid for e-cig. This contains beside 90% glycerin and 10% water. The Temperature of the evaporation beside 150-160"C.

** I measured the temperature to my spirals by means of thermocouples: In current four seconds temperature up to 200"C and continued to increase. (V=3.4v, I=1.54A)

3) Possible, you will need to enlarge the diameter of the hole for entering the air housed atomizer (I have enlarged before 2mm). The Standard hole too little.


Ready! I hope that your device will be best from all!

Any questions?

How to do X-atomizer MOD less than one hour.

At choice material for the first design I have called attention that usual steel spirals (from printers etc. devices) possess even greater value of resistivity, than nichrome.
This riddle for me. But however, I have solved to make one more X-atomizer MOD on base of the designs Bulli-Smoker A2 Classic atomizer, which I prudent has bought long ago.

The Procedure of the fabrication at most deprived me less one hour.
Here is that it is necessary to do:
-Find the suitable steel spiral from faulty device (I used: L=13mm, D=2.5mm, d=0.3mm, R=3.3 Ohm)
-Little sprain its so that between whorl was formed emptiness (This it is important! Otherwise heating will be uneven and she quickly burns and destroy!), measure its R.
-Bend the necessary tails of spiral.
-Delete original spiral.
-Install new. (Under magnifying glasses once again to check that ALL whorl to spirals have a gap between nearby whorl!)
-Check the meter that it R did not change.
-Ready!

If compare these two X-atomizers, that possible say that steel spiral has two obvious defects:
1) Smaller capacity e-liquid.
2) Possible chemical reaction become with acid e-liquid (if they will there be kept, for instance DMT-acetate...)

you can drop crystals right on the coil, but it gives you a little trouble ang gunks things up a lot. It really isnt that much trouble to just dissolve your crystal into a little bit of liquid tho

spacedude1243 wrote:..."lol any one see this , wouldnt be to fun if this happened while your tripping...
electronic cigarette explodes in mans mouth takes out teeth"...

- Remains hope that this so far very rare statistics will not increase...
In general this problem more pertains to unprotected LiPol battery, which put in cheap e-cig (I think my China e-cig just such). In two other my e-cig (see pics, my post #22) LiPol batteries can changed. This allows to use the best batteries with protection.

Besides if want maximum safety, that possible LiPol batteries to change on Li/FeS2 or LiFePo4, LiPho. But it is necessary to remember that charger to it are necessary others! (Google it: "A123 systems"

Ya A123's are great , the reason I bring this up is because I have used Lipos for a bit of time now and this type of thing happenes alot.

I have an ecig and didnt like it much but also use lipos in RC Heli's I make, Almost every Lipos I have had will start to expand at the end of its life, these mind you are in a thin plastic wrap so if they burst there is no pressure build up.

There are many reasons why Lipos do this and it has to do with how much and how fast the current is drawn. Other factors such as being exposed to heat and the current used to charge also adds many variables.


Now imagine your the type whos into these ecigs and you have many types and start trying to create one that is more powerfull so as to vape dmt efficiently. If you created something that stated to draw to much power from the battery you may find that your ecig works great but the battery wont last as long , so you start running it dry and charging it over and over again , all the while unknowingly putting yourself at risk of the same fate.

The reason why the battery in an ecig is more dangerous is because its encased in metal and the only way to know if the battery is unsafe is if the casing heats up.

I know i must sound like a bit of a negative nancy lol but I just want everyone to know the dangers, Its actualy very common for most people using Lipos in RC anything to charge batterys in fire proof bags, I have heard of a car burnt to a crisp once while a guy charged his batt in his car.

Anyways guys just keep in mind what your holding so close to your face , And if your battery is getting hot it is being over drawn

Yes, you are right, always it is necessary to be aware of dangers and be very attentive and neat with these thing...

Some wonderful work going on here--very forward-thinking. Can't wait to get my hands dirty.

Yesterday I have checked the ability of my device (post #42, pic.4) vaporize Harmalas-acetate. Fine! The velocity of the evaporation nearly such either as beside my e-liquid DMT-ethanol (post #22) .

I used Harmalas-acetate from old extraction B.Caapi. Because of long keeping powerfully smell and very thick "syrup" has forfeited the scent acetate quite and here and there started to appear the crystals. But consistency thick "syrup" still ed and this has allowed me to inflict the small part it on spiral X-atomizer.

The Evaporation looked as sublimation (the interesting thread on this subject: https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=30122 ) .
Whereupon small varnished film remained on spiral non-evaporated admixtures (this extraction was not very ingenious and "syrup" was not clean) .

Anyone can confirm that comes of Harmalas-acetate after long keeping when scent disappears quite? (In that this changes, in Harmalas-fb? -In analogy with DMT-acetate which moves over to DMT-fb under weak heating or long ventilate) .

Anyone prefer to vaporize Harmalas-acetate or Harmalas-ascorbate instead of Harmalas-fb?

Any information will turn out to be very useful!

This is absolutely brilliant !

I might just build one of these in the near future.

what do you think about this http://www.youtube.com/w...3&feature=plpp_video

trancescript wrote:..."what do you think about this http://www.youtube.com/w...3&feature=plpp_video "...

- Very interesting model! Possible, will vaporize DMT-Eton e-liquid OK without any problems.

Awesome, very excited to give this a try. I only just started reseraching e-cigs recently, and the choices are a bit confusing. Any chance you can recommend a starter kit that would be good for the above mod?

Thanks!

Please to specify, you want to choose starter kit MOD for attempt of the use ETON-DMT e-liquid on standard atomizer (without alteration) or for the further alteration atomizer on my variant MOD-atomizer? Then I shall be able to answer for you.

It sounds like the best bet is to try to create your x-atomizer from post #42, right?

So I'd just like a suggestion on what I'd need to buy in order to create this. (I have a multi-meter, but that's it!)

Thanks!

Rocketeerjim, I'd love to hear how the G pen works if you try it. I checked some video reviews and it seems fitting. It's glowing red in there so the temperature is high at least. Do you happen to know what the temperature is? Is it easy to clean it if there is residue? If you could try some freebase and report back how it went, that would be much appreciated

edit: I found a nice video showing the heat element in detail ..makes me believe this device is the best vaping-stick so far.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-NO6ue9Ww4

ListenPlease wrote:
It sounds like the best bet is to try to create your x-atomizer from post #42,
right?

So I'd just like a suggestion on what I'd need to buy in order to create this. (I
have a multi-meter, but that's it!)

Thanks!

- Yes, #42 - that than i presently use and enjoy And this - most simple in fabrication. The Problem only in that that it is difficult to find in sale suiting model atomizer for altering: as it is seen on photo this atomizer must have two screws for easy change of the spirals. I used atomizer Bulli-Smoker A2 Classic (or change - A2-T, A2-TM).
This has 510 connector and matches with majority e-cig MODs (or possible use separate transitive connector as on photo #42-4 which connects 901 connector Screwdriver with 510 connector A2 Classic). At choice e-Cig MOD it is necessary to pay attention to capacity of the battery (than more - so much the better). The Minimum capacity over 600mah.
The New spiral "X-atomizer" has a more high resistance than resistance standard (and more so - LR) atomizer so there is heavy stocks on powers.

Possible to make full homemade X-atomizer, but it's more longer work and story. If you ready to make it, i'm tell about further... But for beginning better start with A2 Classic or analog in sale.

Rocketeerjim wrote:
So I've been puffing on a G-Pen from Grencoscience dot etc. for a few days and I'm
quite enthusiastic about it as it is a dedicated oil pen but it accommodates "dabs"
of budder/wax as well. I've been seriously contemplating that with spice's low
melting point it might be a match for the G-tank reservoir on the G-Pen. I'm not
terribly technoskilled but if you check it out then you can weigh in on it. Well,
back to the wax . . . ..


youtube video on g-pen.

- Thank you, very interesting news, me it is necessary time to study this!



Smerrel wrote:
Rocketeerjim, I'd love to hear how the G pen works if you try it. I checked some
video reviews and it seems fitting. It's glowing red in there so the temperature
is high at least. Do you happen to know what the temperature is? Is it easy to
clean it if there is residue? If you could try some freebase and report back how
it went, that would be much appreciated

edit: I found a nice video showing the heat element in detail ..makes me believe
this device is the best vaping-stick so far.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-NO6ue9Ww4

- I join to request Smerrel, this will exceedingly be important information!

- Atomizer on video on reference much similar on designs on wide-spread cartomizer CE2. I did not try CE2 in work on evaporation ETON-DMT e-liquid, but MUCH can be that this will work FINE! I so expect since:
1) ETON-DMT e-liquid possible to do fluidity miscellaneous (depending on concentrations and, possible additives of the type of the glycerin e.t.c )
2) ETON-DMT e-liquid absolutely does not leave sediment (dirt)
3) Design CE2 most corresponds to free displacement ETON-DMT e-liquid inwardly cartomizer
* From possible defect this device can turn out to be that used concentration ETON-DMT e-liquid will is lowered (for good fluidity) and consequently, will take apart to take MAOI for reception of the effect.
** In my device (on photo #42-4) i began with use ETON-DMT e-liquid specified by me concentration (0.2g DMT/0.1ml Eton 95% ) , but for two months Eton partly evaporated and viscosity ETON-DMT e-liquid greatly bring up! Now this approaches to viscosity of the fluid honey (though partly already started to be going to the crystals DMT).
I much was interesting hear of experience of the use ETON-DMT e-liquid else from anyone since effects how do i seem the strange image differ from smoking Freebase -Very stable result and light transplantability by body, very light and suitable dosage, the other picture CEV and big euphoria but smaller delight of the wit and less varied CEV... I think this to probable (quick, at dissolution? ) to transformation DMT in DMT-N-Oxide.

Well, i have solved to present the description one more variant X-atomizer. Its resistance also is 3.3 Ohm. It work with Riva 1100 (510) Starter Kit to me. (As i already spoke, here approach plenty of models e-Cig with 510 connector).

For its fabrications it will take:
1) Cartomizer CE2 (From it it is necessary neatly to get 510 connector with tube, having deleted all other)

2) Spiral (spring) necessary size and resistance

3) Connector RCA-father with cover of the BIG diameter (not less 12mm)
* In this connector must with effort to enter and firmly there hold 510 connector from CE2. For this from connector it is necessary to delete the central contact with insulator.
** When joining these two parts much often petal RCA connector give the rifts (the frail metal). So, possible, need to sap one of the details for weakening of the pull.
*** In connector RCA beside most edges (as on drawing shows the arrow) is drilled hole D=0.3-0.5mm for fastening end springs. The end of the spring is drive away hook and at assembly clings for edge of the hole. The other end of the spring is lowered in hole of the tube and clings for this. The efforts of the pull of the spring it is enough for passing of the current.
4) Syringe approaching diameter that it was tightly put on on cover RCA (from cover RCA is cut ring with thread and is inserted in cut part of syringe).
* Possible not to use the syringe, but then output tube is inserted in opposite end of the cover RCA. In this case it is necessary to make sure that spring does not concern to the cover RCA.
** In any body (the syringe or RCA) beside threads is drilled hole D=2mm for presenting the air.
I hope that this variant whomever be shown more suitable for fabrication.

Please if necessary else details - i ready to answer.

Hey guy's! Give me a call when this works to break through in a puff or two