Alright, well this will be SWIM's first time extracting, and due to certain limitations, (not being able to purchase online easily, being in California where VM&P naphtha is no longer available, and lye or Pickling lime being incredibly difficult to find) is looking to attempt Q21Q21's jimjam tek. My question is: Could SWIM use Sodium Carbonate instead of Calcium Hydroxide as the main base if I am using xylene or d-limeone as the solvent?

In theory yes but I dont know in practice if anybody tried... IF you try it out, go for small amount first and let us know how it goes.

And Didmytest, I dont understand what the real trouble is.. I know for the first time its kinda daunting but dont worry, just boil the mimosa with water, strain/filter however way you can, repeat 3x, reduce, add base, pull.... As for exact amounts, ive never measured to be honest. Dont throw anything away till you're finished and no matter what, you wont lose anything, you can always go back and recover.

Hi there!

Just one question. I've been searching for this in the wiki and FAQ, but I couldn't find it. After adding the NPS (heptane) to the mixture of NaOH+MHRB, Is there any formula to estimate how many ml of "DMT liquid" will form? ((I didn't know how to call it better)) Of course you can measure how many ml have been produced after separating it, but I'm interested in doing this calculation before.

What does that mean? Lets say you add 100ml of solvent to the mimosa, well, you are going to take basically 100ml out, and the unknown amount of DMT will be dissolved in it, so what do you mean with "dmt liquid"?

Yes, I was referring to that (but I didn't know how to call it better).

Well, then perfect. If I'll get the same amount of solvent, even without precision, I find it useful.

Question solved, thank you!

Some solvent may be lost, or left behind (such as too difficult to separate) so it'll be better to throw in 150ml for the first pull, then withdraw 100. The following pulls can be 100ml (with 100ml retrieval of course).

Figured I would post this in this thread before creating a new one.

SWIM is having the "red/dark" naptha when doing Whatcha's tek. SWIM has done the same tek a few times before and only had this problem the last couple times. Not all pulls are dark, so SWIM kept them separated.

SWIM found that doing a Sodium carbonate wash multiple times (~4-8 washes) the naptha would turn more normal of a color. Spice came out surprisingly white.

Does any one really have a idea on why this happens? SWIM searched multiple forums. Most common idea was pre-powdered bark.



here is the main problem SWIM has been having. When doing the Sodium carbonate washes, the water has been separating very slowly. SWIM is wondering if you can OVER saturate the water with SC. SWIM read multiple places to "saturate water until it will hold no more". most recent wash was a water bottle half full with 50g SC added and shaken until water turned clear again. about 1.5oz of water is used in each wash. but it was not uncommon for SWIM to let the final clean jug sit over night, and noticed more water has settles to the bottom of the jug (even after waiting minutes for the SC/water to settle)

Why is the water taking so long to settle? Also another jug seems to have "sediment" like it could almost be SC settling on the side of the jug after ~20 hours in the freezer (no its not spice, too fine and powdery)

I gotta go now but check this out:

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...2FDark.2C_what_to_do_.3F


and btw, just because its fine and powdery doesnt mean its not dmt... You can always filter it out and try to dissolve in warm naphtha.. if it doesnt dissolve, its possibly sodium carb (or at least not dmt), if it does, its probably dmt.

ok, gunna read the link, but SWIM knows with 99.9% certainty that its not spice.

SWIM wonders how SC got into the final jug. He did 1 plain tap water wash.


*edit*

yeah SWIM has read the FAQ on the dark naptha on this and other forums.


His main question was why does the water take so long to seperate? It should do it in under half a min, but it takes for ever.

And can you "over saturate" the water with SC? Maybe thats why the water separates slowly? SWIM knows he goes over kill with the SC, he just wants to make sure its saturated enough.

in the uk ronsonol lighter fluid works perfectly, my chemist has never had any problems with mimosa hostilis and reports yeilds of 1% clean and white, with no defat the onlyt problem he encountered was when he used acacia confusa when mhrb was unavailble, had the same problem as described, at room temp i couldnt get clean crystals only an oily brown liquid, im thinking plant oils were the problem, are you using purple inner root bark from mimosa hositlis?

If you were replying to me, Yes, SWIM used inner root bark, from a sponsor of this site.

still wondering why the water from the SC wash takes too long to separate, and if you can OVER saturate the water with SC.

Cheers,

SWIM is doing the marsofold tek extraction. They were going to do a full 1 lb, but the root bark was finely powdered, and in another tek it said if finely powdered use less material. So SWIM went with 300grams of Mimosa Hostilis, but still used the 1 gallon of Polar Extraction: 1-Quart White Vinegar & 3-Quarts Water. So not sure if SWIM should have done the full gallon? And since SWIM did do the full gallon at this point does SWIM need to adjust any other amounts of materials?

How much Naptha should SWIM use?

Does SWIM need to make any other adjustments since it is so finely powdered?

Danke!

Dont worry about adjusting quantities for powdered material, grey7grey, just do as normal and it will work fine. If you change amount of starting product, just change amounts of everything else in proportion.

Dustee, Im not sure about why its taking long to separate. You cant "over-saturate" water with SC.. I mean, you can, but what will happen is there will be some undissolved sodium carbonate, so just decant away from that excess amount (or filter). In any case for next time, maybe dont use a saturated solution, just throw a pinch of sodium carbonate for the wash.

Thanks for the response. Well, that might be the issue, SWIM is already at the stage where the 300grams is in 1 gallon of water/vinegar and I need to add naptha now. In the TEK it calls for 1 lb of material, SWIM used 66% of 1 lb (300g vs. 453g to a lb), so should SWIM use 66% of all other components? SWIM am mostly concerned with the amount of Naptha to use since too much seems to be a problem.

Cheers!

What you will realize once you have gotten through your first or second extraction is that it is very 'forgiving'.... There's no need to really be exact, one just needs to 'get' the processes. So for example, using more naphtha, what did you read was the problem? Here's two things I can think about: waste (in terms of your money and ecologically), and the fact that if you pull with too much naphtha, you will need to pre-evaporate it to freeze precipitate, otherwise it wont be saturated enough and some (or all) dmt wont precipitate. The FAQ has recommendation regarding size of pulls and pre-evaporation, check that out.

Maybe the most important thing that I've learned regarding extractions is to never throw anything away until you're finished and happy with your final yield. The alkaloids dont dissapear, they are always in some part or another, so you can always recover it.

Let us know how it goes, and be sure to write an intro essay so we can properly welcome you into the community

Thanks, SWIM went with the normal amounts. SWIM will evap off some of the naptha before freezing. Now SWIM just needs to speed up the space time continuum

hello nexus so glad i found you! i am new here and this is my first message, so i apologize if this question is in the wrong place.
i am a little bit confused about something i see during separation..i'm using a basic mhrb, NaOH, and naphtha a/b method, and i get two distinct layers, but it's the 'frothy-snakeskin-foamy-looking goo' that seems to form in a thin layer in the middle that i'm unsure of. is this organic material eaten up by the NaOH? i'm sure i want to leave it out, but i did evaporate some and it smelled correct, (but i'm still 'iffy' about it). i know i want a nice crystal-clear final solvent, so i guess i just want to identify this thin middle layer for peace of mind. i am measuring the pH, but i can't seem to confirm reliably the correct levels. my range through the process begins at pH 3 and ends no higher than pH 9. also, i am not shaking up any bubbles when i add my naphtha, and if i do get some i pop them with a toothpick, so i'm pretty sure this 'foam' i'm seeing is something else. any input on this is greatly appreciated. thank you all for this wonderful collaboration. love and gratitude to all -mantis12

That is called an emulsion and can be fixed by adding more lye. pH is known to drop after each consecutive pull. If you are unsure of your purity you can perform a nice simple recrystallization on it which is explained in the Wiki.

trying something new just wanted some opinions before i attempt anything.

purchased some d-limo, called CitraSolv, is this product okay to use?

I have an exhausted stb jar and planned on letting the naphtha evap then pour some of this citrasolv in it to try and get jungle before i throw away my base jar.


does this work the same as naphtha or do i skip the freeze part and just evap it to retrieve product? thanks.

if its safe to use, which i have no idea if it is or not, you need to salt out the jungle with something like vinegar. There is an explanation of the salting process in the Q21 tek.