Yeah I guess the whole point is to not to overheat it. I've got the oven at 250F and it's still gonna take forever... I guess I shoulda broken down at bought more IPA.

I wouldn't microwave. If you have to evaporate, you can do it with a slow cooker full of water on high like a double broiler, which I would guess would eventually get up to around 140F-150F after a few hours and would reduce your liquid in a day or so...

A question on safe evaporation: If one lives in a trailer, the heat is propane which does lgiht outside , but not worth the chance. If you were going to evaporate in an outbuilding with no heat but electricity, iwonder if the oldfashoin portable heater with the glowing red filiments and fan would be safe? A quartz heater is not much different but the fan is not strong. anyone know if naptha(vm+p) ignition point could be set off by that? If you think about it, how much different is that glowing wire from a cigarette butt? could probabaly preheat room with portable, then use an oilheater which does not have much heat, just radiant. I think i seen something about hairdryers which isnt much different than the portable heater. One must be safe!

No need for a heater - a standard fan will do perfectly for naphtha.

even if the room is 0 C room temparature?

So Ive got a question about something I havent ever seen discussed here: At the end of an STB tek, one has a jug of basic "mimosa soup" as its often referred to around here. Instead of tossing this out and making a new basic solution next time you want to extract, couldnt you just save the solution, and put more MHRB into it next time you want to extract? Obviously at some point its going to become more mhrb than basic solution, but lets say youre just using 100 grams of MHRB at a time, in a milk jug. Couldn't you use the same soup several times? Would your yield be much lower? Thanks for any replies!

Emptymind, your solution might be so thick that it sticks to the walls of your jug making it impossible to see the solvent layer you are trying to remove. I dont know why you would want to keep a solution of spent mhrb. Youre better off just tossing it.


Ive got a question of my own:

I dont trust naphtha any more, Im just starting to get over my light-headedness that has lasted over 5 days after smoking tainted spice. Im going to do a 99% ipa wash. My question is, do i need to heat my ipa before i try to dissolve goodies into it, or will it dissolve at room temperature?

it will dissolve at room temperature.. warming it up will make you need less, but room temp should be fine. By the way thats not technicaly a wash, since wash would mean the solvent you use to wash will not dissolve the goodies, and I guess you understand that all dmt will dissolve.

Also, if you can, I suggest using acetone instead since it evaporates easier/faster, or grain alcohol/non-denatured ethanol, since thats food safe, but IPA should be fine too..

I would use acetone, but thats toxic, and this light-headedness has to never happen again.

acetone toxic? acetone is present in fruits and its a part of human metabolism. You dont want to drink a glass of it, of course, but small amounts that you might be exposed to are harmless, and appart from that, it has a very low boiling point, so it evaps super fast and if you just let it airdry for a while this means it wont be in your final product

Hmm. I did a quick google search and didnt even read up on it, i just saw toxic substances under a link and figured as much.

delete

check BLAB tek for the fumarate to freebase conversion using slow water crystallization.. So make some fumarates out of your freebase and then convert them back using that method... At least thats what I found to work the best. Just make sure to use the least amount of hot water as possible to dissolve your fumarates, to aid crystallization once you add the sodium carbonate.

DELETE

Hello fellow Nexians SWIM has a question about using using laboratory gear for extractions. SWIM wanted to invest into some serious lab gear so that SWIM may have the best product possible but SWIM was not quite sure what exactly SWIM needed and didn't need. This was basically the kit SWIM was going to invest in:
2000 ml 3-neck Round bottom Flask
1000 ml 2-neck Round bottom Flask
1000 ml single neck Round bottom Flask
500 ml single neck Round bottom Flask
250 ml single neck Round bottom Flask
Vacuum (Bent, 105 degree) Adapter
75 Degree Connecting Adapter 24/40
Claisen Adapter 24/40
Parallel Joints Distillation Adapter 24/40
300mm Graham Condenser
300mm West Condenser
300mm Allihn Condenser
400mm Vigreux Distillation column(300mm effective length)
2 x Threaded Thermometer Adapter (w/Nylon bushing top)
5 x Glass Stopper (to use instead of the Threaded Thermometer Adapter or as necessary)
2 x Full length 0°C to 300°C Thermometer
10 x 24/40 plastic Keck Clamps (to hold together the different units)
250mL Separatory funnel with 24/40 top & bottom joints
16in glass vacuum desiccator
sorry in advance for the wall of text and thank you

I'm having what seems to be a separation issue. Used lazyman's tek on 1kg powdered MHRB. Went with his suggestion to mix everything up and let it sit for a few days in closed HDPE jugs, mixing occasionally. Now I'm on to separating off the naptha layer but my naptha is very brown. There IS a clear separation between it and the...goop, but it's not clear like it should be. I've done the tek before without letting the mixture sit for a few days and my naptha poured off clear, leaving a beautiful white-tan product after freeze precipitation. Any ideas why there seems to be what I can only assume is root bark precipitate in my naptha layer? I used the same lye and naptha as last time, though the root bark is from a different vendor.

So ive just purified some material that smelled of naphtha by dissolving it in 99% IPA, and now, after scraping, my material smells of IPA.

I waited over 24 hours for it to dry completely.. Im going to just leave my dish uncovered. It does not smell heavily unless my tupperware is freshly opened.

So in conclusion, every time I let something dry, I always get solvent in crystals. Whats going on?

@Godly
250ml separating funnel might be too small, better get 1l one.

Hi i use MHRB Powder and extract it with A/B (DMT-handbook method). I solved 1kg powder in nearly 3l of PH3 water and startet to boil it, when stirring it feels like a thin liquid but from time to time there are forming big chunks (is this a problem?) also there seems to be a big foamy layer on top. I let it boil really slowly (1 burb every 30-60 sec) but there seeems to get some powder burnt on the bottom (the bottom feel rough also some browner stuff is rising to the top), additionally the burnt stuff builds some kind of skin (same consitency like cooling milk) so what I'm doing wrong? Also I'm wondering how to cook that stuff trice, because the powder has a consistency of flour so it might be difficult to keep it back. I thought about filtering it through a piece of cloth , squeeze the cloth and put the powder back. The best cloth I could find is a piece of white cotton, I think it's one of these oldscool dippers. At the moment I'm cooking it the whole time (cooking + discard the water) to get any rests of washing poweder etc. out of it.


Is the extraction messed up or can I continue?

Ok short Update I put the cloth away and just filled it into the strainer. The strainer has a very fine mesh, so its dripping through. Actually it seems more solid then it felt. The handbook tells to cover the bark with water but this is hard to estimate with powder, thus i don't recommend to use powder. I hope it drips through in the next half an hour but the problem is I don't have much distilled water left. I think I should have used more water (At the moment the solution has the consitency of a very thick milkshake). So a few more urgent questions:

- How much water is usally used for 1kg of powder?
- How much water will I aproximately need for basifying (So I can use the rest, I have aproximately 3l Acified water and 5 l distilled water left)?
- Or is it a huge problem to use very hard tab water (In my area there is a lot of chalc)? (Or does it make a differene cfor NaOH because i think it will just be harder to acify if it contains chalc)

EDIT Another Update: the filtering seemed to work somehow, but I hope the cloth didn't loose color to the solution because first it was white and now it's kind of grey but I think it just got colored by the MHRB. Meanwhile its f**** cold and the solution doesn't really boil anymore (I'm doing this outside with a lab cooker). Tomorrrow I will decant the three batches and filter them with a coffee filter. There is the next question how important is a fine filtering, because atm it seems that to filter 1l it takes 2-3h and I will have around 5l of solution. So actually I don't want to filter and just decant. Maybe some of guys has a good advice to my first timer problems, thx and good n8