I know the jury is still out on any dangers from smoking DMT-acetate, but as far as I know they are still out when it comes to DMT freebase as well.
This is not something I'd like to debate in this thread. I am simply posting the method I use to store, measure and prepare to smoke my DMT.

The "essence" being concentrated in the video is Jimjam DMT (Jungle + White DMT extracted with d-limonene) at 100mg per ml which is approximately 5mg per drop (holding the dropper vertical makes it more accurate) in vinegar, see the link in my tech for more info on DMT and vinegar.

The main reason for this method is that you only have to use a scale ONCE per extraction. I suppose with people who like to gradually smoke unmeasured changa that is the same but lets just say I REALLY LIKE THIS METHOD and it works extremely well for me and all my buddies.

The unlisted video (need this link to see it)

This is a video of evaporating 8 drops, ~40mg of DMT and scraping it up on a copper "machine ball"

and 10 pre-loaded 40mg machine balls ready for smoking.


Peace!

Wow very cool.

When you evaporate the vinegar the DMT goo is left on the tray? (From what I saw in the video)

Seems like a much better way to handle the spice than messing with powdery crystals, and no need to weigh!

you can see it burning in that video, hardly an effective way of evaping it without burning some away I think.

Invest in a dehydrator..it is so worth it and will evaporate such things quite quickly. I used to try all these other ways of evaporating the acetates until I got a dehydrator..only way to do it now.

I can assure you that even if I left it on for 30 seconds more it still would not burn to a point of potency loss. It mostly little remnants from previous scrapings which I've tested by fully scraping the remainder from 20+ uses and it was WELL below 5mg.

It's kinda an odd thing to say, I've done this over 100 times and I've smoked crystals about 40 times. I've tested the potency of 'x'mg of crystal and 'x'mg of goo as well as telling slow evaporation vs fast evaporation and the very clear conclusion is that there is nothing noticeably different about fast evaporation. Thus I will not invest a whole bunch of money that I do not have on an expensive food dehydrator :/

Sorry for the rant but people stating opinions as facts is a pet peave of mine.

Thanks for posting this video Q. I've had luck with your vinegar/lime/limo tek. This is my first tek, successful right away, no petro chems and it only took a few hours. Awesome, right?

First few tries with a 22 oz bottle machine loaded with a chore boy scrubber cut in half were awesome. Beginners luck I'm afraid. Since then I've had trouble attaining blast off. I'm wondering if such a large machine being used is my problem? Seeing this video has me wanting to try a real small scrubber ball in a regular pipe. Maybe then I'll move on to a GVG. . The goo is great--but tricky.

I either need to extract crystals or work on my vaping technique. Think I'll experiment and do both.


Q21, you do good work, again I thank you sir.

Really the only technique is making sure all the DMT vapes off of the machine-ball. It is possible if your ball is too large that there could be some DMT flowing to the middle and just never getting hot enough. As for the bottle: Condensation is a non-issue as far as I can see as I show in this post

I just ordered some earth-silicate superwool from this site and so did amor-fati. I hope that it might be better at swabbing up that goo cause the copper definitely doesn't do the super well.

If you are using a bottle with a large neck then you might be wise to put the lid, if it metal, if not then fashion something metal, and put a dime-size or less hole in it for the kidney-bean size or less copper which will heat more evenly.

Lots of suggestions, pick and choose which ones you like

Nice to see you explore these waters q21q21!

Looking at the evaporation it seems the acetate it boiled off neatly and with a pre-made vial dosing should be easy and consistent.

One thing stuck out for me though: I love the idea of having 'pre loaded 40mg machine balls' ready for vaping. I might as well make some pre loaded balls myself too.


Kind regards,

The Traveler

Mmm, is it wise to combine silicate fibers and Pulmonary Alveoli? Metal sponges might not be the most efficient, but I'm sure they won't enter my lungs. I work with refractory-fibers quite a bit, and find them scary... Be save, please?

Peace!

The SuperWool 607 HT is body-fuild soluable and VERY well tolerated.


from another thread

That paper looks and sounds good. That fact that it lists a low MAC-value whilst no negative biological effects have been observed, ever, looks like another bureaucratic canard so abundant in the E.U.!
Still, I'd say change it often and try a dry-fire with a suction-pump first. But maybe I'm just overly-cautious. Hell, I smoked tobacco for 28 years so if *anything* is going to give me cancer, it probably won't be these fibers.
Good job in finding out about it!

edit: Oh.. I see.. you scrape first. Got a mix-up with a GVG-thing someone did. So no dry fires

Interesting, I would never go there, thanks for sharing.

I hardly ever SMOALK FB DMT any more, maybe 2-3 times a year.

Harmala heavy changa is my ROA!

Ceramic fiber doesn't "breath" very well at all and so is not used similarly to the old scrubpad method. If any ceramic is loose, it will immediately clog air passage, so it has to be used in such a way that a more solid means of air passage must be established. For this reason and the fact of ceramic's poor conductive properties (as evidenced by it's effectiveness as an insulator) it shouldn't be used in direct contact with spice. With the Inspirator mkI, the ceramic had to be packed solidly with a well-formed hole through the middle; this will likely be revised with use of a thin metal tube to ensure proper air passage. With the mkII, the ceramic is packed tightly into screens which form into a "cork" and only allows air to pass around rather than through. In both cases the amount of ceramic is so small and is packed so solidly that the respiratory exposure is negligible at worst--no noticeable irritation of the throat or lungs. However,the superwool would definitely be preferable to eliminate any potential risk.



One thing the works well when experimenting with gooier substances is to form steel screens into little scoops and scoop it up. The screen can even be weighed beforehand so that after scooping, the amount can be determined. This has been used specifically for experimentation with acetate resin produced from thoroughly drying in a dehydrator.
Edit: Details regarding an improved technique on second paragraph: https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/d...&m=323885#post323885