FAQ: Layers wont separate
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...eparate.2C_what_to_do.3F
Dont shake next time

Black material is just the basic layer that is stuck to the walls. If you run a little water on the walls it should wash it away, but when you mix layers again it will be there (and it will slowly fill up your container, maybe it doesnt fit too much more liquid?). Another option to separate is to first separate crudely the top layer+bottom layer to another thin/tall container, and then re-separate.

Yeah you can reduce everything proportionally.

For filtering, it should be done on plant material BEFORE adding the base.. Anyways you can first decant or strain with a thick-hole metal strainer.. Then filter again with an old t-shirt. Then you can filter with funnel+cotton plug. Or similar, the idea is to do it gradually.

Well thats easy then, thanks mate!

Hi.
Why should one use double boiler for the hempseedoil infusion?
Isn't double boiler the one that is used for steaming foods?
Normal pan is not fine?
Sorry if the qustion sounds stupid. I think this is just language barrier thing.

Another quastion about BLAB-
Does the water have to be near boiling temperature when converting fumarate to fb, or is it warm enough when the fumarate dissolves?

I only found "crystal soda for cleaning" which is sodium carbonate. It's big crystal chunks. Is this okay to use?

Thank's & peace

Hello i am fairly new to asking questions here,
but i have been around since may or something.
I am using nomans tek ( only i make more pulls with less naphta 0.7ml/gr MHRB )
freeze precip works like a charm, but when i dry the xtals they become oily again.
I also tried immediate RE-X in aceton and that gave me an oily mess too
could it be due to old bark being used ( +- 1 year old )?
Storage in dark place at room temp.
I have around 400gr left and dont want to waste this too,
so can someone help me around to solve this problem?
I tried doing a drytek with CAOH, the fasa tek with citric acid and none came out nice

ok i will answer myself

the yield is less than should be, still decent tho and i guess thats because of the old bark ( n-oxide formation )
the sticky oil i have after freeze precip is solved by multiple Re-X and let it dry decent,
simply me being too impatient!

hey so my buddy is just wrapping up a very successful first STB extraction and was wondering if there is any reason not to begin his next batch from the remains of the previous one (which still hasn't stopped giving yield). he said he was thinking he would basically just measure the pH of his current NAOH/MHRB/H2O solution with a piece of litmus paper, add another pile of rootbark and some water, and then add as much NaOH as is necessary to return the pH to its previous level and continue with the new batch. what are people's thoughts? should i tell him to just make some jungle spice and start a fresh new batch, or can he combine them and then make the jungle spice at the end?

p.s. sorry if this should have been posted under a different topic or something

Don't do that, pull from the old one until spent, discard accordingly, and start a new extraction.

much thanks for the quick reply. any particular reason why? other than the "dont fix it if it aint broke." rule...

One possible reason I can think of is that your old extraction will have a higher ratio of plant oils to alkaloids (and specially having been long in a basified solution, which will be further liberating all sorts of impurities to the solution), so if you pull from both mixed, you might have more impurities that can both make your yield more impure, as well as needing more pulls for same yield (because as the solvent gets more saturated with impurities, it will most likely pull less alkaloids)

Hi guys...one more please for ...you know an other new guy...I was reading the Q21Q21 tek2. Everything fine. Now I know I'm gonna make it. Except for the multiple pulls. End of pull one and it goes in the freezer. Supose I do a second pull with a new batch of naphtha where should I pour it? In the old precipitation container or a new one and join at the end? Should I use a new batch of naptha (1ml per 1gr of bark) for every pull? I can't underastand how can naphtha seem clear and colorless after stiring the bark-goo. If I pour through a coffee filter will the DMT be filtered or it will pass through the filter and into the precipitation container?

First time extractor here. Correct me if this is wrong.
Did STB, 40g MHRB, pulled naptha into 3 petri dishes. Evap'd ~50% naptha (about a day in non air moving room) before putting in fridge, then freezer.
Looked at the dishes today, there are some white crystals but also some gooey yellow liquid next to it. I would post pictures but dont think I am able to. Should I remove this yellowy glob from the white crystals?
Thanks again.

At the bottom of your posting window is an "attach files to this post" click box to attach pics. Evapping 50 % of the naptha and placing in the fridge is unnecessary, but helps grow larger crystals if that is your aim. The yellow goo is OK - fairly normal, though a perfect white crystal precip is always an aesthetic treat! The gooey part may be from water that condensated after taking out of the freezer. A technique for avoiding or limiting this is to pour the naptha off and turn upside down to dry (with enough space under for air circulation.) A light indirect electric fan can also help once your container is properly placed.

For now, just wait until the rest evaps. You can also do a re-x on it with heptane or naptha (check the wiki for the simple tek)

Hope this helps!!

JBArk

I use new naptha and combine pulls 1-4 in the same container and freeze precip. Then I do a 5th pull and freeze precip to see how much is left. Thusfar, I have never had enough precip out from a 5th pull to warrant a 6th.

The DMT molecules WILL pass through a coffee filter if suspended in the naptha (pre-freeze precip), but why would you want to filter at this stage? It is unnecessary, and the loss of naptha (absorbed in the filter) WILL result in a small loss of spice. If you are refering to after the freeze precip - i use a coffee filter to catch stray "floaties" that have not adhered to the surface of my pyrex dish.

Hope this helps!!

JBArk

If you use same quantity of naphtha in every pull that mean's that you end up with 500ml of naptha-DMT solution for 100gr of MHRB ready to get into the freezer (seems bit too much too me.Is it?).
I was confused about the coffee filter because of: How can the naphtha solution look so clean when poured in the precipitation container after stirring with the whole mixture of rout bark, vinegar and lime? Sorry but I can't imagine gettinig clean crystals out of this mess. Do you let the mixture precipitate for a while after stirring or what?

because most of the "mess" is polar (that is, will stay in the mimosa/water slurry, and NOT be dissolved by the naphtha and therefore not go to the top layer ). You dont need to "let the mixture precipitate", you just need to let it stand long enough for the solvent to go to the top of the mixture. Ideally do a few cycles of mix/let stand per pull.

Yeah, 500ml for 100gr seems maybe too much to freeze. It could be you still get your crystals but maybe some wont precipitate. Better evap to half the amount and freeze (or if you freeze the full amount, after harvesting the crystals, evap till small amount and freeze again)

I use 50ml of naptha for my pulls (75 ml for the first). That way I end up with 225 for pulls 1-4 and an additional 50 ml for the last 5th pull for a total of 275ml. I have evapped to half once, but have never found it necessary - in fact (although there were other factors), the 1 time I did evap half, crystals started forming and even after the freeze precip they were all BRIGHT yellow... The other variables surely contributed, but this was the first time I have not gleaned pure white crystals...

BTW, the post-pull naptha often looks a little yellowish, but can also appear pretty clear. Neither is an indication that the goodies are or are not there.

JBArk

4-5 pulls take about a week. How do you preserve the bark,lime,vinegar mix? Does the few naptha left from the privious pour out effect the mix?

A week? no, an afternoon... I leave the 5th one an extra day, but if you mixed properly and sufficiently the emulsion should settle into 2 distinct layers in from about 10 minutes to no more than an hour. If an emulsion stays (bubbles and/or no distinct line between NPS layer and basic aqueous solution you either mixed too vigorously or your solution isn't basic enough (or both).

Decant, repeat x 3, then freeze precip while the last naptha pull sits overnight, or for a full day (I mix it 4-5 times just to be sure it has circulated).

Most of your spice will migrate to the NPS in the first 2-3 pulls, even with only a few minutes of careful mixing (i turn my mason jars end over end slowly 100 times per pull).

Cheers,

JBArk

EDIT: I use a basic A/B, and have used a standard STB also - I am assuming this should work for your tek also...)

Think I got it solved now. Thanks a lot guys. I will post photos of my first extaction.
Cheers to all.

Added washing soda (large clear crystal chunks) to water as I am at the step 6 - Fumarates conversion on BLAB.
About one dl of SC dissolved in one dl of water. I put the glass jar in warm place to speed up dissolving.
After all was dissolved , I left the jar in cooler place for an hour and the SC crystallized again in the water.

As I don't know too much about chemistry , this left me with question - How do we know SC does not crystallize in the fridge after adding the SC-water to fumarate-water?

Should water be cold, warm or hot if used to wash the freebase?

Thank's!