Yes that's great! Although the product probably isn't 100% pure, it's a very nice yield. My product was also small white crystals on the side and yellowish on the bottom. You could try to extract the lye again as there may be some DMT left, but not much probably.

More small pulls is more efficient, but you probably got most of it in the first pull since you used a lot of solvent .

Did you evaporate before you freeze precip'd?

Khrynisx, re-crystallization should/would "increase" the purity of your extract but it's up to you to decide if it's worth it. Mechanical losses might take it's toll but here is what I suggest.

Divide your DMT extract in half, 0.315g () each. Re-X only one half. Smoalk. Let a few days pass. Smoalk the non Re-x pile. Different ?

Link about the comparative testing protocol:
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=18175

When I blew air across the dish, the PE would cloud up because of the cooling afforded by the low boiling point PE would cause the spice to begin precipitating.


i cant get my solvent to precipitate spice not even 48 hours in the freezer :*(

guys, best tek using lye? im switching from STB to A/B since i didnt had any success.

Did you throw anything away? If you did the tek correctly, it doesnt matter if its A/B or STB, you should have very similar yields. Was your bark from a reputed supplier?

What if you evaporate the solvent completely? and retrieve the results?

Can you find msds for your solvent? Maybe it has some aromatics mixed in like xylene, meaning it wont really freeze precipitate.

solvent is hexane, technical grade. it did precipitate some, but i got like .1 mg of spice, it surely was because I smoked it and gave a short very pleasent sensation, no hallucinations. i think my basified solution was badly made from the beggining, very thick, but i didnt threw it away. when I completly evap the solvents i get also very little yellow goo, im talking about less than a drop of water. my bark is from a local herbal market ( here in mexico theres a lot of ppl that uses plant medicine on a regular basis). bark wasnt the problem.

Hi guys,
I put my question here rather then starting a new topic because I'm still a rookie.
And rookies make rookie mistakes.

I followed the q21q21 vinegar/lime tek, and made some mistakes during the proces.
Soaked the thoroughly blended mimosa in vinegar/water (Used to much liguid though...). Added the lime. Used THP to pass my solvent(limonene) throught the mixture.

My biggest mistake is use of the wrong solvent (limonene).
Where is my DMT at the moment??

Instead of using pure limonene/ orange oil extracts, I used a 100% ecological cleaner.
I thought it was OK, but now I understand limonene is not the main compound.

I discovered this in the polar wash. I added vinegar to supposedly create 2 seperate layers.
The 2 layers didn't occur. Suspicion of mistake rose.

The solvent I used contained:
* Aqua
* Alcohol
* Capryl glucoside
* Lauryl glucoside
* Candida bombicola/glucose/methyl rapeseedate ferment
* Sodium Citrate
* Lactic acid
* Parfum
* Fatty acids C8-18
* Glyceryl caprylate
* Limonene

Is my DMT in this "wrong" solvent? If so could i get this out?
Is my DMT still in the mimosadough? Will the "correct" limonene solvent still form a seperate layer now?

I hope my post was clear.
Thanks

Wally

Sorry to say but, start again....

i would better start over again. your cleaner must have contaminated the dough. and get the spice (if there is some) out of that cleaning compound seems very difficult.

Was the mixture black? If it was black, it had a high enough pH. Even if it was thick, if you mixed well enough you should have at least some yield. How many ml water per gram bark per gram lye?

Sorry if you already answered this but: Was it powdered? How many pulls did you do, how many mls? did you do many cycles of agitation/letting separate before making each pull?

You say you bought from a market and that people use it traditionally, but traditional use for skin care and so on, it needs tanins, its not related to alkaloid content so maybe you have a kind low in dmt? Or also, are you sure its inner rootbark, not stembark? Maybe your bark is low on dmt to begin with so no matter what you do, you cant get much out.

Lastly, in that oil after evap, there can be some dmt there, more than what it looks like. Often it happens that when its oily, it seems like very little but that there's significant amount of alks. Use a small amount of hot solvent to redissolve that goo (or everything that came out of your extraction) and freeze again. Check FAQ for instructions on how best to retrieve crystals after freezing.

you have stated an important thing i havent been considering. my mimosa root. i got it already powdered. i have no idea wether is low in DMT or not, but it may be. how can you tell beetween inner rootbark and stembark? what are the specs on the right rootbark? smell, looks, what? i just got a massive bag with powdered rtootbark. for the smell i could tell it was mimosa rootbark since ive known this plant since i was a child, but i dont know how it needs to look for it to be a high dmt rootbark.

the mixture was jet black, i did several mixes and let it separate, after separating each solvent pull. i did warm pulls. i did like 6 solvent extractions, each one of them warming the solution on hot water baths, mixing, letting sepparate, mixing again, and repeating 4 times each time i made an extraction. I did many cycles.

well it sounds right, the extraction description. So all those pulls combined, you still have them, nothing was thrown away, right? So using a bit of warm solvent to pick up whatever traces are in containers, and re-freezing, does that yield in something?

Also, Im not sure if you can know by looks regarding alkaloid content. Mimosa rootbark looks pink/purple. If local market one doesnt yield good, try finding a supplier in our supplier section, I think there were some ethnobotanical websites selling mimosa. It might be more expensive but maybe try once just to compare yields.

my mimosa powder looks very brown. Yesterday I evaped all my solvent extraction to see if i got some goo to recrystalize. i got very minimal residue, i coldnt even crasp it. i think is the mimosa now. it just cant be any other thing.

would you guys be so kind to describe your mimosa bark? i need to have some neat description in order to pick up some good rootbark from the market. right now i have bark but it must be stembark, its hard, i see no fibers, its not flexible at all. its dark brown. how does your bark looks like?

Yeah i Have been trying to find out about bark too, my bark was shredded and contained a lot of light coloured fibers with a small amount of purplish dust if that helps in any way.

Swim is having some serious issues with an STB and suspects that it might be the MHRB, if anyone can help it would be really appreciated.

swim bought some and it looked kind of iffy, seemed to have mostly fibers in it and only a little dust after pulverising. swim soaked for 24 hours then allowed naptha to sit for another 6 hours then freeze precip. The jars with more dust in them were darker and yielded a brown goo surrounded by small white crystals after freeze precip. The jars with fibers in them yielded a small clump of off white crystals but a tiny amount of them considering that each jar has 120g mhrb in it!

This is the first pull so maybe im panicking over nothing, last time swim used Noman tek and powdered MHRB rather than the shredded stuff iv got this time. the results them were just white crystals in high volumes with no goo.

Is this what to expect with all shredded bark or has swim been sold shit mhrb, or has something gone horribly wrong?

any help at all would be greatly appreciated!

As I said, its pink/purple, may have stringy material, may be completely powdered, depending on the powdering process thoroughness.

In any case as I said, I recommend that you buy from a normal ethnobotanical supplier at least, say, 100g, and then you can both have some normal mimosa to compare when buying in the market, as well as you can make a side-by-side extraction and compare yields.

Good luck

good advice, as usual, thanks endlessness i will follow on that. is just that I think suppliers from the internet are selling MHRB for 60 dollars per 30 grams, and in the market is like, 4 dollars half a kilo man.

question travelers:

I did some xylene pulls (STB x) and i got the NP solvent sepparated now. i want to do a FASA precipitate.

1. should I partially evaporate the xylene for it to be more saturated with DMT?

2. do all I have to do is to add drop by drop the fasa solution? no other NP added? just adding it till its not cloudy any more and filter the precips?

EDIT:

3. If I perform an anhydrous acetone wash to the precips I may get, can I freeze precip it?

thanks !!!