I have researched DMT off your forums now for quite some time, and have several interesting notes I would like to add to the Norman's Tek as notes:
* These have authorship from several parts of your forums from several members all condensed into one. I thought showing these notes would help to show I am interested in getting a promotion some time & am willing to give back.
I would like to give full credit for my notes with humble thanks to all the members of DMT Nexus, and would welcome TOTAL CRITICISM! (Yay) For any mistakes I made in my notes.
* These notes are RAW Form, and the numbers for 5000ml is assuming I would use a 5000ml Separatory Funnel Kit, and 5000ml Erlenmeyer Flask.
----------FIRST AND FOREMOST---------
SAFETY:
I've had glass crack on me, it's not unheard of. Depending on what solvents you are using you can use Polypropylene jars (if you are using naphtha) or HDPE jars (if you are using limonene, or to contain Lye & water mixture). But the best idea is to get Lab-glass IMO and consider the following things:
i) When you are adding lye, make sure it dissolves properly. If you have lye beads stuck to your glass somewhere they could be causing heat gradients which could weaken your glass. Add the lye slowly, bit by bit and let it dissolve completely. Only when your water is clear is your lye fully dissolved.
ii) When you add the lye your water heats up. If you close the lid of the jar you will have pressure build up. At some point your glass will give way. Lab-glass like these can withstand a bit more pressure than your average canning jar, but still it is advisable to leave the lid a bit unscrewed while the water is still heating.
iii) For safety reasons it is good practice to keep your jars inside some kind of tub, sink to catch the caustic mess if it breaks.
iv) If you are working with naphtha, which is pretty volatile and you shake it, or just leave it standing over night, you will also have some pressure build up. If your glass is already weakened from the lye-induced heat gradient or for some other reason this might also be a problem, though I think points i) and ii) are more dangerous. I usually unscrew the cap after shaking to release the pressure just in case, even though I use lab glass. With limonene this isn't so much a problem.
ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES< MASK< AND GOGGLES!
LYE EATS GLASS:
http://www.youtube.com/w...list=PLB0629700AA669AFE
Always, keep extraction jars in a larger leak-proof container. That way, if the jar breaks, not only do you prevent dangerous caustic liquid from spilling all over the place, but you will probably be able to recover most of the liquid too.
Keep fire extinguisher and vinegar handy ( For Lye Burns ) at all times.
When working with Lye & water, you should keep things ventilated. ( Like evacuation hood ventilated or closest thing to it. )
Refer to:
Norman's Tek:
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek
Quotes From Norman Himself:
Using heat on your last pull will increase yield.
Go into more detail about the freeze precipitation.
Partial evaporation is necessary to get the solution concentrated enough to precipitate in the fridge.
My friend, rather than metering his pH, just adds lye until the solution is slippery black and then adds 25% more.
Add more lye, warm the solution up in a sink-full of hot water, and pull a couple of times with naphtha.
More water and stirring does help.
I suggest one last long (3 days or more) pull, shaking as often as practical. Heating the jar to 50-60C also should help.
_______________END OF ADDENDUM______________________
Water Solution Advice:
Amount of Water To Add To HMRB Before Boiling.
Apply This To Below: 1.5 - 2X of the water called for will be required when using powdered bark. ~Norman.
THIS ALSO COLLABORATES THIS: ( For pre-powdered bark-Using 50mg bark batches, i had separation issues using the liquid amounts in the tek, I found that about 25% more water/lye solution seemed to solve the issue, and the solvent separated easily. )
100g's bark
100g's lye (always find myself adding more anyway) (Changed From 110g)
1.5L water (Changed From 1.8L)
60 - 100ml naphtha per pull. ??? <--??? (Changed From 50ml) (150 - 250 numbers for 5000ml ) (5000ml would have to use 235ml)
Using this logic, 100g = 100ml. We have 2000ml Separatory funnel. 1.2 base water * 1.5 = 1.8ml + 200g/200ml product = 2000ml (But we need to determine reduction for bark & lye & since we are using a 1:1:15 ratio, and since 1.2 is 80% of 1.5, then 100mg now equals 80mg, (80%), and 80x2=160 means 160ml total solid addition giving us a 40ml fault tolerance out of 2000ml of space in the separatory funnel. (Got that?) So now our numbers look like this:
80g's bark ( 200g numbers for 5000ml )
80g's lye ( 200g numbers for 5000ml )
1.8L water ( 4.5ml numbers for 5000ml )
48 - 80 ml naphtha per pull (less with ghetto fridge) (48 is for standard water usage (we're on 1.5) + fridge coldness limitations)
(So use 80ml for starters.)
"USE LESS NAPHTHA. Marsfold tek uses way too much, you have to end up evaporating at least 1/2 of it."
PH Advice:
PH should be between 11.5 - 12.5.
PH Sticks are unreliable.
Digital pH meter is best.
When your solution is jet black it's good.
Cooking Advice:
A Magnetic Stirrer / Heater will help maintain a 1% minimum yield. Stirrers require more water, but aids separation.
How long each acid cook?
"You can use a normal stainless steel pot, 3x 1hr boils should be fine. Take your vinegar/water and half it, use the first half for the first boil, then the second half- half that again, so for the second and third boil you will be using a quarter of the original amount. And use a stove not and oven. When boiling, try not to let it boil like crazy, just a few bubbles so it doesn't boil over."
30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crock pot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesn't seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.
When adding NAOH ( Lye ) to water, let it cool down first before you proceed with more NAOH. This makes whiter spice.
Nexus Quote: "Keep cooking in the acid solution. I have done 5 cooks over a week and my last cook pulled out 500mgs off of 454grams. I think the 3 cooks for 3 hours is not sufficient."
"Yeah, cooking will increase your yield....if you do a cold extraction it will take longer and you will need to strain and refill with vinegar solution again, at least 3-5x. Each soak should last about a week if you want the best results. Long is actually better in this case (AFAIK). You can also do an acid soak for a week or so, and then cook in plain water 2-5x."
Mixing Advice:
Idea is combine my pulls, evaporate to +50% volume ( Or even 1/3rd volume ), then freeze.
Or, Don't use heat to evaporate:
"If you want to increase your yield significantly, reduce the amount of solvent you have. You can do this by mixing all your jars together in a shallow dish with a fan blowing across it. After a few hours crystals should start to form on the sides. Keep scraping them off and stirring them back in. When they stop redissolving, add small amounts of solvent back little by little until they do, then stick it back in a container in the freezer."
THE COUNTER ARGUMENT FOR COMBINE TECHNIQUE:
"The advantage of keeping in separate jars is because usually different pulls will result in different ratios of DMT and impurities.. Often it can happen that the later pulls are much more yellow, so people freeze separately because they can already have separated part of the yellow/white stuff. Disadvantage is having to use all these jars and then having problem scraping most of the DMT out of the jars (but then one can just use alcohol/acetone to pick it up and evaporate in a better container).
But you might not care for this if you don't feel that yellow is bad in the first place, or if you recrystallize. If you keep it all together, there is one advantage which is that with all the crystals precipitating together, its a much nicer sight, and easier to scrape Smile"
Keep the whole mix warm, add warm naphtha, and keep the basic solution warm as well.
Use a Magnetic Stirrer, or a blender set on low, Shake the acid soaking jug like crazy. Make an exercise out of it. Acid water must find its way to the DMT and make it charged and soluble.
Add your naphtha, you shake, then let separate, shake again, separate, shake again, and of course separate. Then pull the Naphtha.
More stirring and sitting == higher yields. I mix the solution every 15-20 minutes over a period of perhaps 2-3 hours on a heating plate, and usually only need 2 pulls to obtain a good measure of the alkaloids.
Naphtha not being saturated enough? How fast do you turn-mix the solution? If the naphtha raises to the top fast, (even on the later extractions) a more aggressive mixing is in order as well as waiting longer allowing it to fully separate.
Prevent emulsion by taking care mixing gently. Roll it on the carpet. 5 - 10 minutes of mixing should insure all solvent has come in contact with the solution.
Heat your pulls in the sink in hot water ( while you agitate/let settle ). Combine pulls.
Reduce naphtha after the first pull ( 100 grams of bark to 50ml naphtha ), but don't evaporate it down 50% before attempting to precipitate.
Pulling Notes:
Keel Pulling until Magic Wears Out.
Separation Notes:
You want to avoid getting water into your container you are going to freeze. This requires you separate properly, and don't allow any water to get into the product you save.
Emulsion is when naphtha doesn't go to the top, but get's stuck in the bark/water/lye mixture.
Heating Pulls Advice:
heat a pull, it's very important that you allow it to cool slowly so the crystals don't form around as many impurities. With slow crystallization, it's possible to get white/glass crystals from even very yellow solvent.
Warm/heated naphtha increases yield, but grabs more oils & gives yellow pulls. Unheated gives clear pulls. More oil means more spice.
Precipitation Advice:
If you have troubles with an inadequate freezer, don't forget to evaporate your solution (Doesn't have to be 50%, but cloudy on the surface when you blow on it) after you have pulled all the naphtha pulls and before you put it in the freezer for the first time.
If you are still having trouble getting your precipitation to crystallize, using less naphtha gets it concentrated enough to crystallize more easily except 1 - 2 more pulls are required to get all the DMT extracted.
Use 0.4 ml naphtha per gram of bark (doing heated naphtha pulls) should make every pull crystallize easily except the last.
- 20 degrees temperature is not necessary, but desired.
Make sure jar is DEFINITELY sealed tightly or your fridge will smell and your food will make you sick.
Removing Ice, and place jar in back of freezer.
If you find a clear liquid at bottom of your mason jar after freezing consider that naphtha doesn't freeze. Large masses frozen at bottom is water. If crystals are "frozen", pour naphtha through coffee filter, scrape crystals out with spatula, and put on a plate to dry. Evaporation takes weeks. Product isn't as pure.
In Case Nothing Precipitates After Freezing:
Weren't enough alkaloids to precipitate. Put everything (water too) back into the bark solution, add a little naphtha, and do the three agitations again. Separate and evaporate the naphtha down by 1/3 or1/2 or to the point where it gets cloud. Now throw it in the freezer and give it a couple of days.
Too much naphtha, or not cold enough. To compensate for an inadequate fridge, evaporate your naphtha 50% or until you see cloudy emulsion at surface. You may see crystals form while evaporating. Freeze, run through coffee filter, scrape stuff, evaporate the rest. Scrape the glass you took out of the fridge, add it to the product you scraped from coffee filter, re-precipitate it back in the fridge to freeze, repeat this over and over until nothing falls out of your mason jar. If you get slush crystals, evaporate 50% of the naphtha you get out of the mason jar, put that back into the mason jar, put it back into the freezer.
If the solvent has a fair quantity of spice in it, crystals/precipitated "slush" will form with patience.
Snow-globes only occur when the freezer is cold enough.
Evaporate naphtha quickly in a shallow dish with a fan blowing at it.
(If you have enough space in your freezer) Do the filtering in your freezer (If Space) that way no crystal has a change to melt into naphtha. Put new collection jar in small bowl. (So solvent splashes over the rim)
Carefully pour the naphtha into another container (for reuse in another pull) while turning the jar, and then quickly put the lid on and let it warm to room temperature upside down. ( No coffee filter method because it leaves crystals exposed to naphtha at room temperature so they reabsorb into naphtha )
Lid back on, back in the fridge for an hour, out of the fridge, back upside down again and let the crystals dry.
Harvest the crystals from the bottom of the container with a spatula.
Note: The little amount of floaters will redissolve and reappear in next pull anyway, so there's nothing to loose. (compared to the filter method)
Recrystallization Advice:
To wash out NAOH (Lye) Impurities, refer to:
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...s&m=10545#post10545
Crock-pots work best for hot water baths. They're also excellent for speedy partial evaporation's; I prefer to let the steam pass under the evaporation dish rather than bathing a container in the hot water, myself. You can usually find crock-pots for under twenty bucks, and it's really all you need for any sort of heat application involved in extraction.
Future Improvement Notes:
Optimize what promotes the best type of clathrate formation for delivering DMT to the naphtha solvent. A balance of conditions will create the largest forms of micro-clumps (Yield) that form like what forms in the black goo of an unfiltered solid to base Tek experiment. This has to do with how you maximize the release of the DMT from the plant material. It has to do with a mixture of temperature, PH, agitation, all going on during the initial stages.
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