OPB,

Awesome addition to the community! I was seriously pondering a GVG/VGC until I read your post. How did it manage to get lost in the shuffle for the last year? I am glad it has resurfaced.

Anyway, I love the V2 design. One could simply attach some 1/8" tubing to the end and wrap damp cloth around the nipple if they wanted a handheld/portable version, no?

I am off to Lowe's!

Yea that would work just fine. The tubing isnt ideal because it melts if it gets too hot (why I moved to the water pipe attachment) but it is clear so you can see the vapor. If you dont care about it being transparent then a better solution would be a material that is a good insulator that wont melt. A piece of hardwood drilled through the center would work and with the right carving could look nice.

Sounds simple enough.
I should build one, give it a try and report back.

I will definitely try this out. What I find appealing about this is that one can simply swap out the 2" nipple on the V2 for one that has the hardwood screwed onto it for a fast conversion to a portable version... or for ~$12, just make a completely new setup.

I tried it with cannabis and it works well. Looking forward to trying this with changa

Right. Like I said I think you'll feel different when you see a pic. My descriptions are sub par. I'm pretty sure these parts are available at local hardware stores, etc.

Not trying to derail the thread though. I will build yours and see if I can offer any improvements. Thanks for your hard work!

swim tilts the bong so the changa/spice will have a nice even spread that isnt clumped to the side as he keeps the changa loose, not squeezed by the screens [which can be done]

an engraved sator square for an artistic touch

Great post. Really well instructed with great pictures.

The main point of this that is so good, is that you could easily take it apart.
*This will aid cleaning.
*Also, by taking it apart after use, it looks much less conspicuous. People are not going to think anything of a few brass fittings.

Although I cant see most of the pictures the last ones look great analogue. Did you pierce the bottle yourself? I have tried that a few times and always end up with cracks after it cools.



The inconspicuous nature of the brass fittings is one of the advantages I discussed in The Key "V1" thread. I have taken the device (Key V1) out before with it disassembled in a back pack and then assembled it in a discreet location after hiking. Takes like 30 seconds to put back together and just looks like miscellaneous junk when apart.

Of course I do not encourage use of this out in the public BUT in the event you want to get somewhere private and need to pass through somewhere public it provides a nice peace of mind.

This device looks promising

I put one together today with some minor mods(the pipe was too thick to fit into my downstem, i had to turn it on the grinding wheel), and some questions arose during assembly

If freebase spice is going to be vaped in this beast, how many lower screens should I have? was the 7-10 for changa or freebase?
also any recomendations on prefered methods or ways to put the screens in? how far down the upper screen should be pushed into the fitting?

Thanks in advance nexus, I look forward to using this tonight

Happy travels

EDIT*** Also any smoking tips? how close to hold the flame?
will I see the vapour? or will it be like some claim the VG is like where you can hardly see any vapour?

I will try to answer but your mileage may vary.


I would use 10 screens MINIMUM for freebase. This is a debated issue even with the GVG or other pipes. The bottom line is...use as many containing surfaces you can while maintaining air flow. You cannot have too many screens as long as you can draw air through at a reasonable velocity. The more screens the more vaporized spice but also the more inhale resistance. This can vary based on your dose, piece diameter, etc.

As with any piece it comes down to practice. If you have a hard time vaping your herbs reduce the distance from the heat to the herbs if you get burnt herbs increased the distance or increase the airflow.

I find that usually I cannot see any vapor. Its deceiving because you think it didnt work and then....you are there.

thanks opb, I've tried the key, and found the only way I could get it to vape was to stick my torch right into the top fitting, and toke very rapidly to suck the heat down, breathing in slowly did not seem to do anything, but after reading your post I see you said you don't see any vapor, I will try again with more patience this time.

P.S. Alot of VG users claim not seeing the vapor, but getting a fair size dose, I'm excited to find out if I can get they key to produce the same results, as the only reason I made one is because I am a non smoker(cigs or MJ) and I don't have a very conditioned throat

I'll post back with results after I get a chance to give it another go

Also you could try a good ole Bic. Thats what I like to use. With a bic is you inhale quickly you are drawing more fresh cool air through which lowers the temp. If you slow it down your sucking down mainly just the air that has been heated by the bic.

This sounds perfect for my needs. I will have to attempt to put one of these together! great idea, OpeningPandorasBox.

Thanks for the DIY Pandora. I was wondering though, what is the purpose of the screens on top fitting? I would assume that the changa/spice/whatever sits inside the main pipe so the screens above it don't stop any leaking. Does it diffuse heat for vapping or something?

The screens in the top are what makes it a vaporizer. They keep the flame from reaching the herbs. The flame and the hot screens heat the incoming air to temperatures above the vapor points of many compounds including the active compounds that are responsible for the effects of what ever substance or herb you are vaping.

SWIM Built "The Key v2" but didn't need to use piece A-828. Used 3 screens on bottom, "tobacco" & 3 screens on top (sandwiched down). This technique means SWIM has to remove screens each time SWIM wants to add more tobacco. This seems more efficient. Screens mesh is knit close together stainless steel. Bong has no water inside it. Bong has an ice trap that helps a stiffer draw from the neck translating into a heavier draw through the bowl aiding vaporization along with tightly woven screens. Used Regal jet torch + 5x purified butane fuel.

SWIM must add: The picture showing the part numbers for the "Key v2" were incorrect. A-721 is actually A-717, and A-835 is actually A-810 & the "O" ring was a #7. Used a regal jet torch, and 5x refined butane fuel. On the bong, SWIM had to break off the stem on the inside. Tried using hot water to get seal to pop out so I could just pull or wiggle it out; didn't work. SWIM had to use a hanger with a loop in the end to get down in there, and carefully break off pieces. Once through with that, had to use a coffee filter to filter the glass pieces so the water would run out leaving glass shards in the coffee filter that could be safely disposed of. After testing, SWIM said results were perfect. 100% vaporization. No leftover residue. SWIM thinks this will suffice until SWIM has enough money for GVG + Axe Pack + Turbo ARC Flame.

Thank You OpeningPandorasBox for a wonderful idea!

SWIM saw no vapor for 3 seconds, then mad smoke for 2 seconds all at once, then nothing. Does that mean it's vaporizing opposed to boiling or burning the stuff?

Yesterday i made myself a modified version of The Key V2. I would like to thank OPB for this idea, this device has doubled the efficiency of my smoking.

My slight modification was that i used a normal bowl and down tube from my bong, i then got a 12mm Straight Coupler and removed one of the end caps, I then screwed the Straight Coupler into the thread on my bowl. Then all that was left to do was unscrew the other end cap push in some screens and screw it back down. £4.50 well spent.

This is the coupler i used



Thanks again OPB

Looks good.

BTW, has anyone any idea is there going to be a vaporgenie bong piece or is it possible to make one by oneself?

I'm just thinking, if you have a long bong and a vaporgenie piece in it, it would be very easy to clear all in one hit, even for the novice.

Basically, the wooden vaporgenies ceramic top piece has threads on it, therefore, does anyone have any suggestions on how to make extension for it that'll go inside the bong water?

EDIT: I found some discussions about that using google...

I'm in the process of building a Key v2. I need to turn down the diameter of the 1/8 inch brass stem. It's jus a few thousands too big for the water bong I just bought. I plan on chucking it up in my drill press and taking a file to it. I have another mod I'd like to try as well.

The mod would be to cut off some of the threads from the top diffuser. This will allow me to keep the screens at the top of that part and allow the cap to look like it's screwed in farther. I'm not really a fan of exposed threads.

I'll let yall know once it's done. I'll post some pics too!

I'm building a slightly modified version of this based on the supplies I could find at my local hardware store and the bong I have. I think it should work, and I'll post pictures/results when I have them. One question I have before using it is if boiling the brass pieces in water for an hour would be sufficient to get off all the residue. I don't have a torch or anything, but I guess my oven goes to 450-500, which is hotter than boiling water. It seems boiling water, maybe with a small amount of dish soap to help loosen the oils and such, should be sufficient, but I figured I would ask on here in case someone has a better knowledge on the subject. Thanks!