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short evap time before freeze precipitation? Options
 
hexan
#1 Posted : 3/7/2011 7:44:25 PM

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short question please: regarding a/b Q21 tek2.

Should SWIM be allowing her final spice laden solution to evap down a little at room temp before she freeze precips?

If swim has 300ml total should she evap down to 200ml before popping in freezer?

Thanks in advance

H
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Ljosalfar
#2 Posted : 3/7/2011 7:52:42 PM

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No need to evap in her opinion.
Pop it in the (coldest) freezer, leave for 24+ hours. Mmmmmmm...!
Save the decanted solvent, pull the bark mix (pH 13+, right?) again for fun, leave in the freezer for a week+, and, surprise, surprise!
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hexan
#3 Posted : 3/7/2011 7:56:49 PM

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Ljosalfar wrote:
No need to evap in her opinion.
Pop it in the (coldest) freezer, leave for 24+ hours. Mmmmmmm...!
Save the decanted solvent, pull the bark mix (pH 13+, right?) again for fun, leave in the freezer for a week+, and, surprise, surprise!


Thanks for your input : )
SWIM was under the impression that less volume made the freeze stage more efficient?
Don't the Xstals precip out quicker with higher spice to solvent ratios?

H
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Ljosalfar
#4 Posted : 3/7/2011 8:09:44 PM

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They may crash a bit quicker, but she suspects it's not a huge difference. One can decant any time to retrieve the goods if you have a firm date with the Elohim...Wink Then just back in the freezer, cold, cold, cold!
She told me one time ~ 1 liter of "spent" naphtha was left in for ~ 2 weeks and lo and behold a trio of canary cluster crystal appeared - don't toss anything till you know.
L

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hexan
#5 Posted : 3/7/2011 8:49:41 PM

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Ljosalfar wrote:
They may crash a bit quicker, but she suspects it's not a huge difference. One can decant any time to retrieve the goods if you have a firm date with the Elohim...Wink Then just back in the freezer, cold, cold, cold!
She told me one time ~ 1 liter of "spent" naphtha was left in for ~ 2 weeks and lo and behold a trio of canary cluster crystal appeared - don't toss anything till you know.
L

*
For speed, check out the Ice Cream Tek!



10-4
: )
H
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endlessness
#6 Posted : 3/8/2011 9:06:22 AM

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you can freeze and after you retrieve your crystals, evap down to a small amount and freeze again, or reuse the naphtha. Its impossible to give a tip on solvent size/pre-evap if you dont say amounts of bark.

btw check the FAQ:

How much to pre-evaporate / how big should pulls be?
 
hexan
#7 Posted : 3/8/2011 9:17:49 AM

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endlessness wrote:
you can freeze and after you retrieve your crystals, evap down to a small amount and freeze again, or reuse the naphtha. Its impossible to give a tip on solvent size/pre-evap if you dont say amounts of bark.

btw check the FAQ:

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...orate_before_freezing.3F



of course.

100g bark
100ml naphtha

thx

H
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tele
#8 Posted : 8/23/2011 2:10:26 PM
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So wiki recommends evaporating 2/3 of naphtha when one uses 1:1 solvent/bark ratio... https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...orate_before_freezing.3F

I'm wondering is this evaporation avoidable by using 1/3 amount of naphtha? But the problem is, for example if one uses 30ml solvent with 100g naphtha in q21q21's tek, isn't it such a small amount that at the end one will not be able to pour it out?

Has anyone seen it necessary to evaporate to 1/3 of solvent when doing q21q21's tek?

I'm just thinking, once I didn't evaporate at all and used 100ml per 100g and the yield was very small, only about 0,4%, therefore I think evaporation could be essential to get all the crystals to freeze precipitate?

 
SnozzleBerry
#9 Posted : 8/23/2011 3:22:21 PM

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tele wrote:
...therefore I think evaporation could be essential to get all the crystals to freeze precipitate?


Yes, if your solvent volume isn't low enough to cause the solvent to become super-saturated with DMT when it's cooled by the freezer, then all the xtals will not precipitate.
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tele
#10 Posted : 8/23/2011 5:46:10 PM
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SnozzleBerry wrote:
tele wrote:
...therefore I think evaporation could be essential to get all the crystals to freeze precipitate?


Yes, if your solvent volume isn't low enough to cause the solvent to become super-saturated with DMT when it's cooled by the freezer, then all the xtals will not precipitate.


Is there any method to see when the solution is at it maximum potential?
I know some recommend evapping until in saturates when blown on, and some recommend evapping until 1/3 of the original solution amount. Any other methods?

And should the naphtha get cloudy when blown on, when it's freezed? That is, when one takes out the solution from the freezer, for example.

 
۩
#11 Posted : 8/23/2011 5:48:32 PM

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Even just blowing on it at room temperature is a good indication.
 
tele
#12 Posted : 8/23/2011 6:24:45 PM
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۩ wrote:
Even just blowing on it at room temperature is a good indication.


OK, I seem to get it cloudy by blowing very soon after it's in colder temperature, such as the refrigerator or with a fan(which cools the solution). However, should one evaporate ideally in room temperature and without a fan? Because I feel like the cooler the naphtha, the easier it clouds...
 
۩
#13 Posted : 8/23/2011 6:29:29 PM

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Personally I never worry about technical details like this. If the naptha looks good, and feels right, it's probably fine. It's just not fine if you pull with excessive solvent and try to freeze precipitate that, you know?
 
tele
#14 Posted : 8/23/2011 6:51:09 PM
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۩ wrote:
Personally I never worry about technical details like this. If the naptha looks good, and feels right, it's probably fine. It's just not fine if you pull with excessive solvent and try to freeze precipitate that, you know?


Sure, I'm just worried about getting(again) 0.5% yield from supposedly high quality bark with q21q21's tek, therefore I want to make sure I get each step correctly to make sure it's the bark, not the technique that's low-yielding.
 
۩
#15 Posted : 8/23/2011 7:01:55 PM

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Use lye Pleased
 
tele
#16 Posted : 8/23/2011 7:24:31 PM
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۩ wrote:
Use lye Pleased


I would if the problem would be in the tek, but some people have got over 1% yield from the tek, and I had myself at least better yield from last extraction which was made with different bark and it was pre-powdered, this time it was grinded by myself...
 
billydgator
#17 Posted : 8/30/2011 10:32:06 PM

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I know someone that can do that tek with their eyes closed. if u get .5... do another pull and get another .5. For someone to get 2% out of tek2 could take 7-8 pulls, spaced out between a couple days.
 
Enoon
#18 Posted : 8/30/2011 10:39:01 PM

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I agree to doing more pulls. I do around 8 usually and still have product in the later pulls. total yield is maybe around 1.3%, never gotten more, but I'm pretty satisfied with that. .5 means you can definitely get more still. IMO small pulls and more of them works better for freeze precipitation and saving solvent - because you can reuse it after you precipitate your product. I usually only use around 2x70 ml for 100g bark extractions and cycle these two portions of solvent, i.e. one is in the freezer, one is in the bark. I'm against wasting things especially potentially harmful solvents, or magical molecules. both of them seem like it's worth figuring out schemes and techniques not to lose any unnecessarily Very happy
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tele
#19 Posted : 8/31/2011 10:24:22 AM
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billydgator wrote:
I know someone that can do that tek with their eyes closed. if u get .5... do another pull and get another .5. For someone to get 2% out of tek2 could take 7-8 pulls, spaced out between a couple days.


Well I can do it with my eyes closed(it's my "special"Smile ) and did about 7-9 pulls spaced between two weeks from the 100g of bark! I've checked each step and any potential adjustments that could have been made.

The problem seems to me that the base(lime) isn't strong enough for fibrous grinded up bark. That would explain why I got much better yield with pre-powdered using the same tek. If one uses lye, it's such strong base that it could break up the fibres and make them into a mush, however lime doesn't do that.
I'll try to grind up the bark and boil it for three hours in vinegar, and then add lime to the resulting water/bark mix. Hopefully it will crash out more.
I don't want to work with lye, so I would have to change back to pre-powdered if the yield doesn't increase.

 
 
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