update - the naptha layer seems to be taking longer to separate since he added the plain water. it also seems to be taking on a purple hue. has he screwed the pooch? should he add more base. remove naphtha layer and try again? he'd hate to think he lost a lot of his yield if he discards this first pull with the purple hue. i could really use some advice asap, especially if there's something i can do quickly to save this experiment.

perhaps waiting longer for the separation will clear it up?

please help.

forgive my noobish panic attack. the top layer only seemed purple because of the residue on the sides of the glass. siphoning with a 10cc hypodermic needle yielded nice yellow naphtha with no sludge or base mix residue. 40 ml of saturated naphtha are freeze precipitating in my regular old freezer set on low.

fingers crossed.

I'm abit confused regarding extractions since my fav shop isn't selling powdered bark anymore. So my question is, do I have to shred/pulverise the MHRB further or can I just cook the larger pieces MHRB longer?(Using A/B)

All help regarding this would make me really happy, since I don't own any coffee grinder or similiar.

i'm not expecting a speedy response, if any at all, but it would be really nice if someone could answer just one question for me.

is it normal for naphtha pulls to precipitate a yellow/amber sludgy substance under the layer of tiny white crystals? it would be nice to know before i bioassay this spice. i'm sure it's not contamination from my base mixture. i've had amber spice before, and loved it just fine, but i was expecting my first pulls to yield only white crystals.

help?

Normal, whats normal?

to answer your question, somtimes. The length at which the naptha was left in with the soup, the heat of the soup and naptha all play a part in the color of the naptha. Normaly when I do a 1st and 2nd pull I get only whitish spice, but I use very little heat and make the pull a quik pull. Afer that I start getting more of the yellow. An a/b seems to give better results though, IME.

If you arent happy with what you have, do a re-x and separate the sludge from the white spice.

Also somthing to remember, people do answer the questions here, maybe not instantly but they will get answered, its only when you are mid extraction that it might not feel like you are getting any help. What you could do next time you are mid extraction and need some help, pop into the chat, there is always somone there wiling to help.

ye dude, if you have got whole bark, or even "pieces" you are going to want to break it up more. The finer its broken down the more surface area there is for the acids/bases/solvent to do their work.

you will want to break id down more forsure, you have no blender either? if not id sugest investing in one. a glass one would work best id think. if thats not available id probably just try and chop it up with scissors/wire cutters or smt.

Also a long acid soak wont hurt the yield.

very sincerely, thanks, gammagore. you said...

"If you arent happy with what you have, do a re-x and separate the sludge from the white spice."

from what i've read, the yellow sludge could contain 5-meo-dmt, and i've only ever broken through with amber spice (weird) and love it. best experience of my life thus far, hands down. but, if i wanted to make sure to have only pure dmt xtals, i'm assuming the rerystallization process involves dissolving in naphtha and precipitating again, but at what point would i be able to separate the white from the yellow? right now it seems like i could almost pick out the white xtals if i had wee little carnie worker hands and an equally wee set of tweezers.

there's probably a link that'll fix me right up.

thanks again for your help.

We are talking of MHRB, right? If so where do you read that it could contain 5meo?

come to think of it, that's chaliponga. so, no chance of other active alkaloids in MHRB? is jungle spice a chaliponga extraction? i always though jungle spice was just the name for amber spice, and i'd also heard that jungle contains MEO. i'm open to the idea that i have no idea what i'm talking about. i'm new to this thing.

this indescribably awesome thing.

Edit: Ignore.

Does my sister need to shred/pulverize her bark further? I'm gonna use A/B.

My sister would also appreciate additional information regarding acid cooking a bit larger pieces MHRB, will the alkaloids find their way through pieces (like the smaller one on the picture 2-3 mm). The question really is for her, pulverize more or cook longer? Shes also meaning that further pulverization will cause a certain loss in plant materials since the pulverizing causes DMT mimosa to escape in it's powdery form.


My sister also wants to know if it's in any way better to pull full spectrum with xylene before you pull spice with heptane. And separation DMT and the other alkaloids afterward, pro/cons?

"pulverized bark"

This picture shows before and after she to pulverize her bark.

Why is pulverizing losing plant materials? DMT is not escaping, you blend it and the whole thing stays there. Maybe some fine dust will fly around but thats a very small amoutn compared to the total amount. Also you can just wait a couple of mins before opening the blender, and put from the blender straight into a plastic bag and close so the powder isnt flying all over.

The more you powder the better. Just run it a bit more in the blender. Once I boiled mimosa which had big pieces and after hours of boiling i took one piece out, peeled the piece into thinner layers and the inside layers werent even wet yet, just barely moist, so yield would for sure be worse the less powdered it is.

I think its better to pull it all with xylene (yuck) or limonene, and later if you want to recrystalize the product using heptane. Pulling first with xylene/limonene and later with heptane is bad idea because xylene/limo dissolve dmt much better, so most/all your yield will be pulled before you pull with heptane.

If you use xylene or limonene, I suggest salting it out and later freebasing. Salt with FASA (or FASI for limonene) or FASW, or with vinegar, then freebase the resulting product. Evapping xylene is nasty and wasteful, much better to salt and reuse it. Limonene doesnt evap clean so you have to salt it

Good luck

You dont need naphtha for getting pure freebase dmt. Check BLAB tek in the wiki for instructions, if you have fumaric acid you should salt with FASW or FASI and then freebase with water crystalization for pure white dmt . Otherwise I heard that with acetic acid salting it works too to crystallize dmt out of water but only if you use lye (I tried with sodium carb and it didnt work, but dagger tried with lye and it does work).

Ideas for those having no luck.....

1 - persistance works, SWIM had more failed attempts than believable, close to 9 months of em'.
More dud extracts than I could count.

1a - 98% pure NaOH is fine, as is diggers shell. With crap plant material, use a lot and boil down.

2 - Definately defat, seems a double AB process such as Lextek will give pure joy from average material.

3 - Watch the humidity when evaping, seems to SWIM, if the air not dry, spice becomes mush, that evaps
into nothing at all - SWIM figures spice is decomposing too fast when water + 02 are around, at
room temp / pressure. SWIM would really like to try some vacuum distilling of sovlent, to
ensure it's supersaturated before it goes into the freezer. (any hints on DIY equip would be nice?)
Also watch the heat during Base stages, as it seems that over 50 degrees or so, the spice appears
to break down or dissappear from the jar ? (I believe freebase spice THEORETICALLY shouldn't
evap until ~ 120 ??)
.
3a - SWIM suspects if you don't defat enough - any residue lighter plant oils seems to completely
prevent crystalisation - when freezing - at least in shellite.

4 - A very dissappointing little jar, that was frozen but looked nothing was precipitated out, was
frozen, warmed, frozen, warmed, at least a dozen times. Finally bored of this, and not seeing
any 'snow' on the bottom - the shell was poured off - a massive spice crystal clear as glass
was stuck to the side, the likes of which I have rarely seen in pics....
It was so clear, it was invisible in the shellite!

5 - Never give up, nevwer swennder !!!!

PS - the glass like spice went yellow / milky after 24 hours or so, but it was EXTREMELY potent
(according to SWIM) and did not have a lot of 'head pressure' or nausea during onset, just pure joy.

Wingchun - I am guessing you are from Australia or somewhere in Oceania from your use of shellite? So are you using Acacia? Very important when giving advice to identify your source material!

Most here use MHRB, so:



Defats are completely unnecessary and a waste of time and solvent with root bark, which contains next to no plant oils.



With MHRB teks, A/B or STB, I never heat, and consistently get 1.2-1.8% yields of yellowish to pure white crystals. Heating IMO is unnecessary and only introduces the possibility of the RNS (Red Naptha Syndrome. Yes I just coined the phrase )



To my knowledge, plant fats and oils should not hinder crystalization. Most fats and oils, if any exist at all in the naptha solution (see above), will sit on the top of the naptha, perhaps a little coating the crystals, but not much - unless you are evapping with oil rich source material and not freeze precipping.

You mentioned having a lot of failures in your first extractions... were you following teks here? and, again, what was your source material? If it wasn't MHRB, I strongly suggest procuring some - it'll improve your success rate and make your life a whole lot easier!!

Good luck,

JBArk

Thank you for the tip. That sounds much easier than my plan to freebase twice and freeze precip with naptha. I assume the IPA should be 99% rather than the more easily acquirable 91% available at pharmacies?

Problem:
I used petroleum as solvent, which turned out to be not ideal. It takes AGES (or days/weeks) to evaporate. And still there is some oily residu in my crystal jars.

So i went to shop to get something else. I found "wasbenzine" in dutch, or washing gas? Improperly translated.
I checked if it evaporates well by pouring a little bit on a shiny metal dish.

> The new solvent evaporated in 10min. (almost none of the petroleum has evaporated after 2hours, so this could be a major improvement)

When i poured the new solvent on the shiny metal dish it evaporated pretty quick, and the dish coloured in like rainbow colours.
Like when you see gas floating on top of water. It has this shiny pearly colour. Is this a bad residu?

Thanks

*Sorry, wrong thread. I was multibrowsing and used the wrong window. (The other one had the chemicals thread and i'm not finding a delete button)

is it normal to see white crystals in the lye and mimosa mix?
there was no solvent added yet

could it be undisolved lye :S

could be undissolved lye yeah... anyways once you add the non-polar solvent, if its dmt it will dissolve in the solvent, and any undissolved lye wont.

But just mix it well and if its lye it should dissolve. How much did you add, what color is the whole mix?