[quote:3115300d86="DMTripper"][quote:3115300d86="quantumbrujo"] By the way if you're gonna be storing a base solution for long periods of time you can't use glass and you're better off using HDPE plastic.the lye solution weakens the glass and it cracks for no reason and you will be left with a caustic spill.[/quote:3115300d86] I didn't know that. I thought base didn't react with glass in any way. So what do you mean by long periods of time? I really don't want an accident like that to happen [/quote:3115300d86] here check this out http://list.uvm.edu/cgi-...;amp;D=1&P=12908

Hello All! Just getting back to the extraction and need more advice... If you remember, there was a rather high volume NP (1 liter NP, 50 grams MHRB) and it was suggested that a evap and re-freeze occur. There was an evap (still air) for a couple of days to appx .33 liter and did a freeze precip. There were these snotty looking floaties and nearly white dots settled on the bottom. It strained via coffee filter and let that dry. The snotty looking stuff is yellow/brown and damp and the white dots are fragile. The stuff smells terrible, like very old gasoline. It's quite acrid really! Most of the material was removed from the filter it was kept because it appears that there is still the white material on the filter. Are these the beginnings? Now what? If this is it how would I clean it up. It's hard to imagine smoking the brown crap. Thanks in advance!

First - don't throw anything away. Now, start from the top. What tek did you use? You used odorless mineral spirits and not naptha? What brand? Look up an MSDS and evap a small amount to see if it's clean. I think you'll probably be best off just evaping everything down and doing a mini A/B on it, but it would be nice to figure out what happened. The dots are likely DMT, the snot could be something you pulled out of the plant or something in the OMS. You're on the right track.

ive got this: [img:9cd5633f9e]http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/5645/mineraljr5.th.jpg[/img:9cd5633f9e] is it ok for defatting and non-polar? 'contains 100% hydrocarbon liquid' im evap some now to check for residue edit: evapped, no residue, it was in the evening, overcast, the sun had already set and it only took about 10 mins to evap. is this a suitable product? altough im still gunna search for shellite, but if all else fails..? i just read soma's tek. it says turpentine is good for defatting but shellite should be used for the nonpolar extraction. im doing a a/b extraction soon. would rather do the straigh b one (lazyman's) but need to defat. when i do the naptha pull, from what i have read, i put the pulled naptha into a urine smapler jar..? then put the urine sampler jar into the freezer, making sure it is sealed, with the naptha pulls in it. once the naptha in the urine jar forms crystals i pour it into a baking dish and let it evap? is this correct. using a urine jar would be alot easier for me.

[quote:c933511397="mardybum"]ive got this: [img:c933511397]http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/5645/mineraljr5.th.jpg[/img:c933511397] is it ok for defatting and non-polar? 'contains 100% hydrocarbon liquid' im evap some now to check for residue edit: evapped, no residue, it was in the evening, overcast, the sun had already set and it only took about 10 mins to evap. is this a suitable product? altough im still gunna search for shellite, but if all else fails..? i just read soma's tek. it says turpentine is good for defatting but shellite should be used for the nonpolar extraction. im doing a a/b extraction soon. would rather do the straigh b one (lazyman's) but need to defat. when i do the naptha pull, from what i have read, i put the pulled naptha into a urine smapler jar..? then put the urine sampler jar into the freezer, making sure it is sealed, with the naptha pulls in it. once the naptha in the urine jar forms crystals i pour it into a baking dish and let it evap? is this correct. using a urine jar would be alot easier for me.[/quote:c933511397] That stuff you got seems it would be good for defatting.if it evaps super clean it could even be good for extracting.the idea of putting the naptha in the freezer is for the DMT to freeze precipitate out of solution and you don't need to pour it in a baking dish to evap.you already have your crystals at the bottom of your urine jars.just filter out the DMT by pouring the contents through a coffee filter.You can always evap what liquid is left to get whatever is still in solution out but be sure your naptha or whatever solvent evaps 100% super clean.

Used "Klean-Strip" brand odorless mineral spirits. Extraction method is below. [quote:ed04c33faf]I think you'll probably be best off just evaping everything down and doing a mini A/B on it, but it would be nice to figure out what happened. [/quote:ed04c33faf] Can you explain a "mini A/B" please Thanks! 50 Grams Mimosa Hostilias – Ground 1st Acid bath – ~2PH 330ml water 330ml 5% White Vinegar (equals appx PH 2) Preheated in Microwave then simmered on high in Crock-Pot = 45 minutes Strained with strainer and remains sent to 2nd acid bath 2nd Acid Bath - ~4PH 330ml water 4 Drops muratic acid Preheated in microwave and simmer on high in Crock-Pot Strained with strainer and remains sent to 3rd acid bath = 45 minutes 3rd Acid Bath - ~5-6PH 300ml water 4 Drops Muratic acid Preheated in microwave and simmer on high in crockpot = 45 minutes Strained and placed liquid in refrigerator for the night. Disposed of spent plant materials 1. Divided into two jars (appx 500ml each) 2. Slowly dissolve 4 tablespoons lye (NaOH) into 400ml cold water (Lye goes into the water and not the water goes into the lye!) 3. Added appx. 50ml lye solution to each jar of acid solution until the solution went from purple to gray to black then added appx 15ml more. a. Tumbled jars for 3 – 4 minutes b. Let sit for 45 minutes 4. Heated a two water baths to 80 degrees centigrade 5. Heat odorless mineral spirits and black solution to 70 degrees centigrade 6. Add appx 75ml hot odorless mineral spirits to each jar, seal and tumble for 3 -4 minutes each, venting occasionally then place back in the hot water bath. 7. After emulsion separates, siphon off clear liquid. 8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 two more times for a total of three hot mineral spirit mixes. 9. Freeze DMT laden spirits. Had too much NP – did a still air evap to ~.33 liters Freeze precip resulted in fragile white dots and what now looks like clumps of light brown dots..

By "mini A/B" I mean the extraction procedure that you just did only on a much smaller scale. Evap it all down, cover with very cold water and add muriatic acid drop by drop until everything goes into solution. The brown snot may be impurities from the OMS or some kind of fat in which case it will never go into solution. If the white dots go and a couple more drops doesn't do it for the brown, call it good. Now do a defat. Use naptha that you have checked for impurities. Basify. You'll need to use papers since you won't have a slippy black indicator. Take it to 13.5. Extract with clean naptha or heptane (Bestine). You won't need much, 25 - 50 ml per pull. I'd forget freeze precip at this point and just evap to see what you get. It should be very clean. Good luck.

Thanks you Noman! Let me read back... Put the snots and dots back into the last bit of OMS - Yes? Add "very cold water" to the mix - Yes? Ratio? Add muratic acid to attempt to dissolve everything but the dots for sure. As far as the defat, I'm now confused. The steps above result in an acidic OMS solution. Does one now wait for separation? The assumption at this point is that the snots and dots should NOT have been added back to the original OMS used for freeze precip but that fresh, pure naptha be used for defatting... Continuing, basify the <naptha> solution by adding enough NaOH to PH 13.5 - Yes? Extract and freeze precip... My appologies and thank you for your guidance!

in the shop today i think i saw odorless mineral spirits. unless it was odorless methylated spirits. hmm. anyway, which is better for extraction, shellite or odorless mineral spirits.

No. Put the snots and dots into the last of the OMS and evaporate off the OMS. Now you have everything that you pulled fron the bark, good and bad, plus any impurities from the OMS that wouldn't evaporate and no OMS. Now cover the S+D with cold water, a couple ounces should do it, and start adding acid. The insoluable in water alkaloids will go into solution when enough acid has been added to convert them to soluable in water salt form. Since there is such a small amount of material, you may want to use vinegar or citric acid (drugstore - "I'm canning tomato sauce" because you will go from not enough to way too much very quickly with muriatic. So now you have an acidic solution with no OMS, and the alkaloids in salt form, thus soluable in water and insoluable in NP solvent and the snot material which is hopefully soluable in NP solvent because you are going to add clean NP (like good VM+P naptha) and agitate it. When the NP separates from the water the snot should be in the NP and the goodies in the water. So you separate the layers and discard the NP (I'd evap it just to see what's left) and basify the water to 13.5. This will convert the alks to freebase, thus insoluable in water and soluable in NP. So extract with NP solvent and this time the goodies should end up in the NP layer which you separate off and evaporate completely. Don't bother with a freeze precip, just evaporate the NP.

Excellent! Thank you again! This will take a couple of days for a report back.I have to believe that these notes would be helpful to others... Really, thank you Noman!

SWIM;s going to try the lazyman tek on longifolia/ maidenii bark. hell prob do a few defats on the bark and let you know how it goes.

one last q. is 100% acetone a good solvent for np extraction and defatting.

No!

ok, he finally found shellite today. if swim does the defats on the bark and just decants the solvent, when the wet powder is added to basified water, the solvent which was still in the powdered bark will separate in the mixture, will this be worth evaporating or should he wait until the baseified water has had time to extract the alkaloids then add a bit more solvent and shake it up, then extract the added solvent which will be mixed with the old solvent once it is separated.

Just add more solvent and extract it all together. Thats what swim did and all was ok.

Ok, SWIM started his first extraction. 200g of Maidenii bark and around 300g of longi folia and maidenii phyllodes. He did his first defat by pouring warm shellite into the bark and leaving it overnight shaking it every now and then, he thinks leaving it o’night will make the defat more efficient?. He wonders what difference does it make when the shellite is warm? And will the phyllodes need defatting because he is thinking of just putting them straight into basified water and crossing the bridge of getting fat out when he comes to it (final product).

Hey mate. SWIM did an a/b extraction for acacia and defatted the acid mix so dont know if a straight defat on the raw product works. I guess it would. I would do a defat on the phylodes as they will have chlorophyll in them and you dont want that stuff. The more crap you can get out early the better.

Whoops - just a few hours ago \SWIM put the phyllodes in base water. So the solvent will pull out chlorophyll too? How bad is that stuff and is there a waay to get rid of it?

I would just try to freeze precipitate once you have your product and go from there. Any one who knows more than I feel free to comment.