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official extraction help thread Options
 
endlessness
#1021 Posted : 11/25/2010 2:12:23 PM

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considering that solvent evaps completely clean, yes.. Maybe redissolve and evap again more than once just to make sure, but yeah its a sound logic
 

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DiMiTriX
#1022 Posted : 11/25/2010 2:12:51 PM

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swim thought to do the same with his diesel extracted spice..but to concentrate it,he must boil it at more than 150°C
Tz'is aná
 
Eranik
#1023 Posted : 11/25/2010 3:43:10 PM

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Now a question regarding Harmalas:

How exactly do a correct manske? That doesn't lose any yields, for washing the yields.
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endlessness
#1024 Posted : 11/25/2010 3:56:57 PM

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a manske means saturating with salt the solution that contains harmalas. You shouldnt lose any yield with this process, the precipitation is pretty thorough.

You can check this guide, as it describes the whole process of extracting (if you dont know it yet). If you already have harmalas and just want to clean them up, just keep redissolving, filtering thoroughly to remove inactives, and reprecipitating again. Each time you do this it gets cleaner. You can do with salt saturation or also the base precipitation. I think successive base precipitations might clean it more, but there will probably be some yield loss (which at least to some extent its expected, since you want to clean it up, taking out impurities and therefore it becomes lighter).
 
Eranik
#1025 Posted : 11/25/2010 4:12:55 PM

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Filtering fine particles is very difficult for me, I would prefer redissolving the dirty yields in water, super saturate with salt, let sit in the fridge and let the crystals precipitate (hope: while most of the impurities are still in solution state), and filter to keep the crystals and discard the water containing impurities.

Is this possible? or the impurities will precipitate too?
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endlessness
#1026 Posted : 11/25/2010 4:20:20 PM

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why is it difficult? The easiest filter is when the harmalas are dissolved, because you dont need a perfectly fine filter to catch the precipitating the harmalas. The best way to filter in this 'between-stage' is to use gradually tighter filters. First start with simple cloth in funnel, or very loose cotton plug (with a big layer on the wider part too, not just pressed cotton in the tight part). The ideal is that the speed of filtering is constant and quite significant but not too fast (because if its too fast its probably not filtering enough impurities). After its filtered, make a new and tighter cotton plug or similar..

Anyways you get the idea, the more you filter the better. Take it like meditation Pleased

Its possible to not filter then and just precipitate, but I dont see why you wouldnt because it will make the product even cleaner and its not hard. The filtering with the crystals is definitely harder, so you want to get it as clean as possible before that happens (at least thats how I see it)

 
Eranik
#1027 Posted : 11/25/2010 4:22:29 PM

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So many questions, another one:

SWIM has seen images of remained crystals in separatory funnels in the wiki. SWIM just bought one recently but doesn't know how to use it to separate the liquid from precipitates.
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Eranik
#1028 Posted : 11/25/2010 4:28:37 PM

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endlessness wrote:
why is it difficult? The easiest filter is when the harmalas are dissolved, because you dont need a perfectly fine filter to catch the precipitating the harmalas. The best way to filter in this 'between-stage' is to use gradually tighter filters. First start with simple cloth in funnel, or very loose cotton plug (with a big layer on the wider part too, not just pressed cotton in the tight part). The ideal is that the speed of filtering is constant and quite significant but not too fast (because if its too fast its probably not filtering enough impurities). After its filtered, make a new and tighter cotton plug or similar..

Anyways you get the idea, the more you filter the better. Take it like meditation Pleased

Its possible to not filter then and just precipitate, but I dont see why you wouldnt because it will make the product even cleaner and its not hard. The filtering with the crystals is definitely harder, so you want to get it as clean as possible before that happens (at least thats how I see it)


Oh thank you endlessness, now I see I didn't even knew the proper stages of a correct filteration, What I did in the past was just trying to filter a very muddy solution through a very fine filter, the result? the filter stopped working after some ten mL and I got angry as hell Very happy Thanks again.
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person
#1029 Posted : 11/28/2010 12:24:40 PM
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What kind of end product would Lazy Mans tek yield? Crystals or what?
 
Newfound_wonder
#1030 Posted : 11/28/2010 6:11:31 PM

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person wrote:
What kind of end product would Lazy Mans tek yield? Crystals or what?


It would most likely result in a yellow/white powder that could be vaporized, although purifying the product is advisable.
Every tool is dangerous when misused. That is no reason not to use tools.
Isn't it strange that a gift can be an enemy?
 
Eranik
#1031 Posted : 12/6/2010 3:04:19 PM

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What's the stuff between mimosa-lye solution and NPS? It can't be emulsion, the bottle was sitting still for a week and there's no little bubbles in the stuff. and looks and feels like dreamy cotton clouds. should I pull it along the solvent? or discard?
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endlessness
#1032 Posted : 12/6/2010 3:14:26 PM

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yes it def looks like an emulsion

More lye/salt (and all the other FAQ recommendations) should get rid of it. Keep us posted Pleased
 
Eranik
#1033 Posted : 12/6/2010 3:26:52 PM

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How much lye?
Generally, will spice get destroyed if someone add too much lye (extremely basic pH) or if the solution left to sit for toooo long (months) in a highly basic pH?
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endlessness
#1034 Posted : 12/6/2010 3:31:25 PM

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nope, dont worry lye will not hurt dmt. There are enough stories of people pulling from months-old extraction (even years old?) and still being fine.

As for how much lye, well, as much as you need to break the emulsion. Dont shake next time if you did to mix. And yeah pure table salt (NaCl) without additives is great against emulsions too.
 
Eranik
#1035 Posted : 12/6/2010 3:34:26 PM

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Thank you, these emulsions are really a pain, so that's the way to break them. before I was just getting the top solvent and leaving the emulsion behind, with low yields, so I guess most of the goodies are trapped in emulsions.
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endlessness
#1036 Posted : 12/6/2010 3:35:48 PM

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how are you retrieving the alkaloids from the solvent ?

and yeah that will def get rid of emulsions, check the FAQ for more thorough explanation.

good luck!
 
Eranik
#1037 Posted : 12/6/2010 3:40:14 PM

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I pour the solvent on flat glass dish and later scrap using razor.
So I'll finally finish this extraction but will save the yields for maybe months later, I'm not ready for another experience yet, I fear to lose my sanity.

Thanks again.
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SomeoneWhoIsMe
#1038 Posted : 12/7/2010 12:20:24 AM
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So I'm relegated to the nursery forum i see...
oh well maybe you kidz can help me out.

'Bout to try my first mesc extraction, thinkin I'll do it STB for a quicker extraction...This is my proposed tek:

Combine 1 pt dried cactus with .25 pt CaOH, wet with 3 pt water (thnx 69ron)
pull w/ xylene 'til cactus is exhausted
salt xylene w/ HCl 'til xylene is exhausted
evap HCl to yield cactus hash
clean hash with acetone to yield mescaline hydrochloride (thnx phlux)

So my questions:
ph, ph, ph? When I basify my cactus, what ph? I think I remember reading that I want to shoot for ph 12? Then when I salt my xylene, what ph is my HCl? How does ph 2 sound? And just for reference if I were to do acid/base what ph would I shoot for in my tea brews? Would ph 4 be good?
Also, wiki's tellin me the melting point of mesc is 183 C...is that the temp to avoid, or should I stay way lower than that? Is 100 C (boiling water) OK?

Hope someone can reply with swiftness and accuracy. Stoked to get started.
 
endlessness
#1039 Posted : 12/7/2010 1:08:44 AM

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regarding pH of salting, better not go so low.. 5-6 should be better, check this post:
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...&m=173120#post173120

as for basifying, 12-13 should be perfectly fine (dont have to worry, AFAIK mescaline is pretty stable to basic solutions. Just dont go too low pH for basifying because mescaline's pka is quite high, 9.56)

you can have tea at boiling or under-boiling temperatures when its acidified. Here's a couple of discussions regarding mesc and heat:
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=14474
https://www.dmt-nexus.me....aspx?g=posts&t=9135
 
SomeoneWhoIsMe
#1040 Posted : 12/7/2010 5:26:42 AM
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thanks endlessness, I'm confident to proceed...I'll try to get some pics up when I'm finished!
 
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