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How to Grow Phalaris Options
 
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#1 Posted : 2/12/2010 6:48:31 PM

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The text below was found @:
http://dmt.tribe.net/thr...a-44fa-8bad-5a9546e14fbf
and will be relayed here for preservation purposes.




Growing Phalaris is very easy - it is a grass that can tolerate floods and extreme drought. A plant dug out of the ground and leftwithout any water for 6 days suffers only minor wilting. Severewilting occurs after drought over 9 days in duration. Placing the
whole plant underwater doesn't kill the plant.

To achieve optimum alkaloid-level, however, takes some skill. Time never
stops, and everyone wants to get their phalaris as big and trypty in
as short time as possible. Parts you are after are leaves - leaves have
the highest alkaloid contents - so dont harvest anything else -
highest alkaloid concentrations are found in immature grass and leaf
blades, lowest in leaf sheaths, stems and roots.

Starting from seeds is easy. Get some shallow (10 cm/4"Pleased pots. Tray
with edges will do, bucket is fine - anything that can hold some soil
together, something that doesn't rot or suck the water from the soil.
Regular plastic pots are fine. Dont use clay/unglazed ceramic pots, these
hold water.

Place soil in the container, wet it thoroughly, and place seeds on the
soil. You can soak the seeds for 24 or 12 or 6 hours before if you want
to - this will speed up the process a bit. Cover the seeds with thin layer
of soil (say like 3 mm). Spray the soil with water, and cover the container
with clear plastic so that humidity stays high. If you can raise the
temperature couple of degrees (23-25 C), seeds will germinate faster.
After couple of days first sprouts should be visible, remove the plastic.
Optimum temperature for vegetative growth would be about 20-22 C degrees.
_________

Alkaloids in phalarii can be increased with stressing. Stressing, on
the other hand, slows the growth and decreases the total yield. I will
refer to any action that increases the total alkaloid-yield by stressing.
These methods work for both P. arundinacea and aquatica.
There are three basic methods in stressing: clipping, shading and moisture-
control.

Clipping is relatively easy. Take clean scissors into your right hand,
hold the plant still with your left hand, and |SNIP|, your plant just got
stressed. But simply clipping the plants shorter will decrease your total
yield. Wait until the plant is about 10 or 20 cm (1/2 ' ) high. Cut right
above the leaf. Wait until you get another leaf, above which to cut, could
be two days or two weeks.

Clipping increases tryptamine content by 50 % to even 400%. The amount of
betacarbolines is _roughly_ doubled.

Shading is quite controversial issue. Shading slows the growth, and seems
to affect different strains different ways. I will try to shed some light
into shadows. First of all, you will probably grow your plants indoors,
and if these plants are not on the windowsill, they will not be receiving
anything near the light plants outdoors do, where all the studies are made.
Forget shading. If you grow yours outdoors/near good light source,
shading might be useful. Shade the plants for their last 1/4th or 1/5th of
the growing-period.

In practice, placing a sheet of glass/plexiglass or a thin net between the
plants and the light source should work. Glass eats anything from couple
to 20% (dirty) of the light.

Amount of shading is quite troublesome, too. General mean value would be
maybe 5 to 15%. Arundinacea responds to smaller shifts, halve the figures.
Shading increases the tryptamine content by 20 to 30%.

Moisture-stressing is also quite easy. You dont water for a week or so.
Interestingly, plants droughted for a long time, produce some unknown
alkaloid. Young plants respond better to drought, whereas older (+30)
may not show any response in respect to the alkaloid content. Regrowths
grown from droughted plants (which did not show response) had a higher
alkaloid content. If you wilt, wilt young plants. No water for a period
of 5 to 10 days. If any damage (brown leaf tips etc.) begins to show,
stop wilting. Note that although the plants cannot be rotted to death
with overwatering, it slows the growth. Let the soil dry out between
the waterings.

Moisture stress may as much as double the alkaloid content.

To get high leaf mass, your plant needs high amounts of water, light,
and nutrients. Nutrients, on the other hand, have been shown to have
a negative effect on the alkaloid content - adequate fertilization may
in fact lower the total alkaloid content. And stressing decreases the
leaf mass. So you must walk the fine line between these two.
Make a growing program, divided in 4 to 8 parts. During certain parts
you maximise the leaf mass. And during certain parts you maximise the
alkaloid content.

Example:

Simon Sez grows Phalaris aquatica. 1st period goes almost entirely
to germination, as the seeds dry out a bit, "Whatta dumb mistake,"
Simon thinks, as third of the seeds wont germinate anymore.
2nd and 3 rd period Simon has dedicated for growth. Simon gives
the plants nutrients; during 2nd period complete, well balanced
N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) and micronutrient (Zn,B,Cu,
Fe, Mn, etc.) fertilizer, and during 3rd only natural nitrogen.
Every now and then he snips the top off 'em.

4th period is about fasting - Simon gives plants no water.
During the 5th Simon begins to feel sorry for the plants and after
giving them adequate, but not too much!, watering, lets them grow.
And at the beginning of the 6th period, Simon thinks that its time
to chill out a bit, so he sneaks the plants into large fridge his
friend has (after giving it a dose of nitrogen fertilization).
Just for a night. Its always above 0 C, but below 6 C.

Last days the plants get to grow normally. Then Simon strips the
leaves, and lets the plants do their own thing for a while, as he tries
to put together the wheat grass juicer he got without any instructions.
That would theoretically make 200% for the clipping, 25% for the 4th,
10-200% for the 6th. But in reality the increase in tryptamines cannot
be calculated so easily. But lot anyhow. Simon smiles happily.

The period lenght is also important - alkaloid content rises steadily
as the plant grows, and is highest at 30 to 50 days. Simon had 7 day
periods =).

Fertilizers - problematic. Dont use good, rich soil - if the plants get
enough of micronutrients, alkaloid content is diminished. Mix regular
gradening soil with sand and rocks to get a good mix (for example 1/3rd
of each). When the plant is young, ensure adequate nutrition with
liquid fertilizers, then move to only nitrogen fertilization, and
finally give only water (for example first quarter, second quarter and
last half, resp.). This makes plants grow fast, big and finally tryptish.
Phalaris can use fairly large amounts of fertilizers, but stick to the
instructions of the manufacturer until you know what you are doing. Urine
is an excellent excellent nitrogen fertilizer - add about half an
desiliter (2 oz) per liter of water (1/5gallon?) - fully organic and
very soluable.

Cloning - an easy way to get more plants. First pick your best plant -
healthy, big and high in alkaloids. Wait till you harvest, and then cut
the whole stem off, place it underwater, glass or a bucket does fine,
cut in 3 cm pieces, add small amounts of seaweed/-extract/auxins and
wait couple of days. After that place pieces in pots, and keep humid.
It might take as long as 3 weeks for first signs of life, but try to
keep the soil relatively humid - not wet, humid. Excess water may
attract molds and fungi. You can also take part of the rhizome (root)
and do the same thing. Leaves are of no use here, they will only rot
away.

Harvesting the fruits of labor is very easy. Simply cut out the leaves.
If you like you can leave one leaf to speed up the process. Remove
parts of the stem above the leaf. Plant will continue growing for a
long time. Repotting the plant or dividing the rhizomes often gives
plant new vigour. Do this couple of times a year.

Time of the day has no effect on the tryptamine content if you are
growing indoors or in an greenhouse. Outside, morning harvest may rise
alkaloid content.

If you are producing seeds - dont clip, have at least four of such plants,
all from different sources, and of good strain. Let these grow, and when
the seed production has started, place a clear bag over the flower. Bags
made of loose nylon mesh are best. Plants produced from seed often
have more energy than plants that have been cloned from a clone (and so-on).
Produce seeds at least once in two years to ensure the vigour of your
plants.
 

Good quality Syrian rue (Peganum harmala) for an incredible price!
 
jamie
#2 Posted : 2/12/2010 8:43:01 PM

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i have seeds that i collected in the wild last season as well as some grass that i have been cultivating that i grew from seed that i collected 2 seasons back...the stuff has survived outdoors here in canada all winter long and is even green and growing as we speak..im going to move it indoors into my small shelved greenhouse tonight most likey and put it into some new, nitrogen rich soil and shade it to start peaking alks and see what happens..and also begin germinating some more seeds in the greenhouse.

I have found that you really want that grass that goes a nice tint of blue..its always like that along the edge of streams here where it stays cool and shady..thats the good stuff. You will also find grass that is more yellow green when it gets alot of light and I think that stuff has less spice.
Long live the unwoke.
 
Oncewas
#3 Posted : 2/12/2010 9:07:47 PM
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thanks house Very happy
 
deepsun80
#4 Posted : 2/22/2010 3:28:52 AM
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but isn't the problem with phalaris the presence of undesired tryptamines? Is there a clean phalaris strain with just the light?
 
Astralking
#5 Posted : 5/27/2010 3:07:10 PM

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It was previously thought that 5-OH-DMT(bufotenine) was an undesireable tryptamine but i think as you can see from this website alone, this is no longer true. Bufotenine has given many people on this website powerful experiences (not me yet!) and i think that alot of the information on this chemical (away from the nexus anyway!) is very dated.

One problem you do have with phalaris is a chemical called gramine which is known to kill sheep and i think it can cause brain damage in humansbut that is not a tryptamine. although i've not read too much into that so don't quote me Very happy
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narmz
#6 Posted : 5/27/2010 9:57:55 PM

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Not trying to rain on anybody's parade here, but do we really need to be encouraging the growth of reed canary? The north american strain has bread with the european strain to create a highly aggressive tall and densely growing strain that out competes most native grasses. It is literally everywhere, and even if we tried pulling it all out, I'm sure it would still be around for many years. Why not just harvest phalaris that is already taking hold over native areas? That way we could be doing our ecosystem a service at the same time as we are harvesting a sacrament?

I don't know, I just figured I should bring this up, my roommate is participating in an eco-restoration project in our town here, and the site they are restoring is plagued by phalaris, it is out competing all the native grasses.

If ya grow it, I'd suggest keeping it indoors.
Anyhow, get out there and harvest that shit!
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elofer
#7 Posted : 5/27/2010 10:31:04 PM

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years ago now a one used that same paper that house posted t grow his own phalaris plants in pots, he bought the "turkey red" strain of the grass, did as the poaper said to get max alcaloids, and by god it tuned out some godamn strong grass!!
as for the wild stuff there are alot of sites that tell you the alcaloid content of these grasses since it is a concern to those with livestock,, they are all pretty low in alcks...much better to use the techniques in this paper! I will attest to thier effectivness, that grass was scarry!! The teck. definetly does multiply the potency, one tried the grass before and after this technique, before it was fairly strong, but AFTER, with the same ammount of grass in a aya-tea, It was way way too much!!!

to think that something as "mundane" as !grass! could be so utter POWERFULL! no words man, no words, I think it produced mostly 5-meo though, for those who have never smoked this, you can have no clue as to how intense and overpowering these mollecules can actually be, nndmt is comfortable in comparison..to me 5-meo was like being hit with lightning repeatedly...absolutly the most intense thing one has ever felt, and one immagines tho only thing to compare to this is death itself.
 
geeg30
#8 Posted : 5/28/2010 1:43:47 AM

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Fuck growing it -there are acres upon acres of the stuff growing wild - granted growing your own can affect potency but there is so much of the stuff in the wild that potency can be offset by the sheer quantity of wild phalaris.

I suppose it does depend on where you live - I'm lucky, there are loads and loads of the stuff growing near me.
Here you!!! Gonnaenodaethat

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Dorge
#9 Posted : 5/30/2010 6:43:11 AM

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geeg30 wrote:
Fuck growing it -there are acres upon acres of the stuff growing wild - granted growing your own can affect potency but there is so much of the stuff in the wild that potency can be offset by the sheer quantity of wild phalaris.

I suppose it does depend on where you live - I'm lucky, there are loads and loads of the stuff growing near me.


are you working with it at all?
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Observant
#10 Posted : 5/30/2010 1:58:50 PM

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http://worldseedsupplydo...cloning-of-phalaris.html
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DiMiTriX
#11 Posted : 9/14/2010 9:46:24 AM

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best strain of phalaris is Phalaris aquatica 'AQ1' i had it years ago but swim mother ripped it off couse he said was a bad weed to see lol Crying or very sad :evil:
Tz'is aná
 
 
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