[quote94de06a67]Naphtha should be as clear as H2O, not NYC tap water, but dH2O. Ronsinol Naphtha has a yellow tint the last I saw[/quote94de06a67] Is there something that can be done to clear it up, or is there another place a Canadian can look for naptha? VM&P can not be found

you can distill it, same with coleman camp fuel. get a large pyrex pot put a pyrex measuring cup,(or some kind of borosilicate glassware) in the center of the pot, put the pot lid on upside down, put ice on/in the lid and do low heat OUTSIDE on a hot plate, have plenty of ice handy and a fire extinguisher. Use a turkey baster to remove the melted ice/water from the lid when you need to, replenish with ice, keep ice on the lid at all times to ensure condensation of the solvent vapor, and to avoid vapor loss. This should work. Fill the pot a couple inches deep (no more)with solvent and distill only 200mL at a time, 300 tops, and fill it up with more solvent, be very careful,DONT SMOKE, DONT BOIL,honestly I dont know if ronsinol can be distilled, but the tint put in colemanfuel is a stain to stop people from putting it in there cars because its very clean other than the tint, it dosnt smell like VM&P, the tint will not burn off and will stain a gas tank coloring all gas green forever, so if distilled the green/blue tint wont evaporate into your collection cup, its ment to stay. I know finding solvents isn't always easy, but theres got to be naphtha in Canada, its also called shellite(sp?) Be careful

Thanks Blacksheep, I will look for shellite tomorrow. I want to try to avoid having to distilling the Ronsonal. The shitty part is the Ronsonal worked really good for me before, but this new bottle I got is different...sucks

Have you thought about using DCM?

You could also try checking some art supply shops for Bestine.Which wll work very well if you can find it.I don't know if it is available in Canada though.Good luck and keep looking I'm sure you'll find something.

Yeah Bestine! Woo woo woo! Pure heptane! Order it online, you'll have to pay for hazardous shipping, so get lots. My friend's next extractions will be with Bestine.

Hey good peoples, Just wondering what the ideal PH is for the acid part of an A-B extraction. I have read that you dont need it with mimosa but if using other sources ie. Accacia it is needed. It is pretty clear that for the base you should have a PH of around 13.5 but not so clear for the acid PH. I have heard as low as 1 (yodas tek) and as high as 6 (soma's tek). your thoughts would be very helpful.

I don't test pH anymore, I just use one part vinegar to three parts water and it works fine. When I was checking pH, I found that going any lower than 3 resulted in oily yellow goo.

Excellent, thanks a lot. That is what I will do.

[quote:74a247b8f6="spice-elf"]hello all! I'm just about to finish my first QT Tek extraktion. but the evaporation of the naphta makes some trouble... after some days, all the naphta had evaporated, but a thin, wet film was left. this film stayed for several days. now after some more days (finally! i already got worried something was wrong...) this film has slowly changed to some very wet crystals. when you scrape them together its a yellow goo. Now i wonder why it takes so long to evaporate, since its nearly no naphta left. is there anything you can do to speed up evaporation process? or is it normal that the last rest of the naphta takes quite a while to evaporate? best regards, Spice-Elf[/quote:74a247b8f6] Herbal oils evaporate as well over time. If you failed to defat the solution properly, you'll end of with a minimal amount of herbal oils which will slow down the evaporating process enormously. I'd recommend you to redissolve the goo in a bit of warm naphta and use the refrigorator tek. The oils will stay within the naphta and the DMT will crystallize as usual. [quote:74a247b8f6="Noman"]I don't test pH anymore, I just use one part vinegar to three parts water and it works fine. When I was checking pH, I found that going any lower than 3 resulted in oily yellow goo.[/quote:74a247b8f6] That sounds logical to me. Soma's tek suggest you shouldn't go lower than 6pH because then other unwanted materials will dissolve as well. Thanks for your test, I'll keep it in mind.

when it comes to extracting DMT from phalaris arundicea, will using a wheat grass juicer do the trick?

[quote:17d82ea5e0="The Purple Man"]when it comes to extracting DMT from phalaris arundicea, will using a wheat grass juicer do the trick?[/quote:17d82ea5e0] I don't know, but it's worth trying. SWIM is going to try to extract DMT from P. arundinacea within a few weeks. SWIM is going to dry the whole plant, including the roots, and will try a A/B extraction with defat process. SWIM will dry the whole thing first.

hi all first time poster. thanks for the thread. big help. some people i know who are big into chemistry have been talking about a semi-failed (yellow goo) exeriment they performed with mimosa h. They have one large, unresolved question, and they would like people's actual tested experiences please. This should work [i:c877967aa0]theoretically[/i:c877967aa0], but before my friends do another attempt, they'd like to be reasonably assured that this has worked for someone somewhere. INSTEAD OF NaOH, CAN YOU USE KOH (pH+ FROM HYDROPONICS SHOPS)? It worked very well at turning the acidic solution black, but the outcome was very unsatisfactory. HAS ANYONE USED KOH AS A BASE AND GOTTEN GOOD RESULTS? If you have used KOH successfully, which tek did you follow? Did you buffer/dilute the KOH or just use it straight from the bottle? My friend's outcome was the orange-y oil. Nothing even closely resembling a crystal. Boo hoo. Some say on this board that this is due to QT's over acidifying. Ok. They're gonna try to rescue the orange-y oil (BTW the oil, they say, has a characteristic plastic odor to it) but they'll also be starting another attempt someday (noman or marsifold) and will need to use KOH. Can it be done? HELP!!! thanks

Has your friend tried to freeze the yellow goo? Perhaps your friend should add some hot naphta to size up the volume a littlebit. If there's spice in it, he should be able to salvage them this way. KOH should indeed theoratically work. KOH -> aqua -> (K+) + (OH-) ==> concentration OH- rises (lowering the pOH...), increasing the pH. Potassium as an ion (K+) is safe to use, although I don't see why you wouldn't want to use NaOH. NaOH is $2,50 a pound where my Dutch friend lives. SWIM hasen't tried KOH (and won't) so I can't help you with any experimental results.

Law enforcement, I believe, noticed a spike in sales of lye crystals. Not due to spice extraction. But to the explosion in popularity of a different chemical. One which I won't name on this thread. But this chemical is a nasty little bugger. Most of you probably know what I'm referring to. Anyways, they decided to enlist the voluntary efforts of all hardware stores in my area and take lye off the shelves. Gone. Poof. Unavailable. My friends don't feel like it is prudent to order, even though that is an option. Seems a bit too high-profile for their style. If I understand the chemistry lesson correctly, then you are recommending that the KOH be added to distilled water before adding to the MHRB mixture? Would directly adding the KOH to the mixture have a deliterious effect on the yield? p.s. thanks for helpful suggestions about the goo. I'll post to tell you how they make out with that.

You're in fairly uncharted waters AFAIK - lye has just been so much easier for most people to get. Are there any places selling soapmaking supplies that you could use? I really couldn't say how it would work with my tek because the lye is doing more than basifying, it's also dissolving the bark - that's why it uses so much lye. Whether KOH would do that, I couldn't say though it certainly burned the holy fuck out of me just as readily as lye when I was working with them in a chem manufacturing job. You could run 50g of bark in an evening and find out. I'd love to know. It would probably work just fine in the Marsofold tek.

[quote:945ad3e35b="4D traveller"]If I understand the chemistry lesson correctly, then you are recommending that the KOH be added to distilled water before adding to the MHRB mixture? Would directly adding the KOH to the mixture have a deliterious effect on the yield?[/quote:945ad3e35b] Always dissolve your salt (NaOH, KOH, etc.) first in a seperate container. As mentioned in about any tek, SLOWLY dissolve and always put the salt in water not water on salt. I can't tell you if it effects yield as I haven't tried it. I don't see why it should.

SWIM is doing an AB extraction and has done the acid part with vinegar and water. also the defat has been done. SWIM has a fair bit of liquid. His question is can he boil this down to get less liquid before basifiying and extracting with naptha. Your thoughts would be most helpful.

how many grams of rootbark did you use? how much liquid is there?A lot isn't precice enough especially when you don't tell us the amount of bark used.What PH reading does it have?

@sillysyban- acidify to 2.7 - 3, and yes you can reduce with no problem as long as you have NOT basified. Depends on how much your starting material was also to determine how much to reduce also. If acidic uses stainless or ceramic crock-pot. never use aluminum as always. @4D traveller-yes you can add KOH to solution instead of making basic solution. add very small amount stirring fast to dissipate the exothermic generated by the addition of the KOH, using a ph meter is best to get a reading of 13 if you decide to dream about a KOH or NaOH solution, ONLY add the Hydroxides to COLD WATER, never hot as some Extremely stupid home chemist have been telling people. KOH and NaOH cause a very serious exotherimic(heat releasing) reaction, one must stir FAST to keep the reaction calm cool. Only add in tiny amounts while stirring. If not you will experience a boil over, cracking of the vessel, and other heat caused problems. Only use cold water. one here would never dream with KOH even though it could be used. one dreams of an A/B extraction with the addition of NaOH directly to the acidified reduced solution then shakes with NP solvent, and freeze precipitates 3 times for clean spice with a 1.2% return every single time.