Okay so after a bit of research and experimentation I've come up with a suitable Technique to extract full spectrum alkaloids from the seeds of Anadenathera Coulbrina/peregrina. Bufotenine, DMT and 5meoDMT.

The following technique will yield about 5% of good clean tan/brown cystaline powder. Which is easy to melt in vape device Pulsar APX V3 Wax machine. The whole process can be done in one day with the right chemicals and equiptment. The tech is done with 10 grams seed powder, for larger extraction simply multiply by 10's ect.

Chemicals:
D-limonene. 225ml
Demineralised water. 1L
Calcium hydroxide. 1g (or sodium carbonate).
Acetone. 300ml

Equiptment.
0.001 gram scales.
Tweezers.
Mortise and pestle.
Measuring cup (glass pyrex).
Portable gas stove and can of gas.
Large pyrex glass dish.
100ml shot glass.
Assortment of glass jars differing sizes.
Glass pipette eye dropper (for solvents and acetone).
Plastic pipette (for tea extract).


Simplified version.

1) dehull, gently cook/dry seeds, course grind seeds.
2) defat with d-limonene. 3 x 100ml. Heat seed powder evaporate excess solvent.
3) extract water solubles. 5 x 200ml demineralised water pulls, or untill relatively clear.
4) evaporate tea extract. Low heat about 120 degrees celsius.
5) basify with calcium hydroxide. 1g for every 10 grams of starting seed weight.
6) dry seed paste on low heat or fan dry.
7) extract with acetone. 3 x 100 mls. and evaporate.


Step 1) Prepare the seed powder.

1A) Dehull seeds.
Using two hands, hold both sides of seed with index finger and thumb and crack the outer shell in half by bending it forwards and backwards. The outer shell should simply pull off in halves now, if not bend and snap it into quaters and it should. Sometimes you may need tweezers to slide under the outer shell and pry it away from the bean. (No cooking and or moistening this step to dehull the seeds, it pretty easy, but time consuming).

1B) Dry the seeds.
The purpose of this step is to make the seeds dry so can grind them easier in mortise and pestle. Place the whole or partly chopped seeds onto a heat proof plate/dish/pan and heat about 120 degrees celsius until hardened and dry. Doesn't take to much heat to dry them. Dont over do it, if there is smoke your burning them, just enough heat to evaporate the moister.

1C) Grind the seeds in course powder.
Place dried seeds in mortise and pestle and course grind them into powder.

Step 2) Defat.
*This step is important to make dry crystal at the end instead of sticky oily waxy resinous mess. Place the dry seed powder into 100 ml shot glass or small glass jar. Pull three times with 75ml 100% d-limonene solvent, letting the solid seed material settle to the bottom each time and siphoning off the solvent with glass pipette, keeping the seed material. Should take 10 minutes each pull. At the end of the pulls inevitably there will be solvent left over in the seed material. Place seed powder on dish and spread it out, gently evaporate excess solvent on low heat infront of fan until dry. There may still be a citrus smell but the rest of the steps will eliminate it from the final product. This step will remove about 10% of the weight of the seeds which are lipids (fats and oils).

Step 3) Water extract. Extract water solubles.
Do 5 x pulls with 200ml water. Boil demineralised water in kettle. Place seed powder in glass jar and pour 200ml boiling water into it. Stir it around and let the plant material settle to the bottom before siphoning off the water. Do this 5 times in total or until liquid is relatively clear. Should take about 10-15 minutes each pull. No need to wait any longer than the time it takes for the non water soluble particles to sediment to the bottom, within 5 minutes the liquid has already became saturated with water solubles, waiting longer is unnecessary. Also this extraction is successfully done without any added acids in the water extraction phase, extra acids is unnecessary as the molecules are already in acid/salt form naturally within the seeds.

Step 4) Evaporate the tea extract completely.
Put the combined tea extract into glass pyrex dish and evaporate on low heat until completely dry. About 120 degress celsius. Might take about 4 hours. It helps to have a fan blowing off the steam and in well ventilated area. When the water has been reduced turn down the heat, keep an eye on it as you dont want it to burn. You'll be left with a sticky amber colured residue on the base of glass dish after evaporation.

Step 5) Basify the extract.
Mix 1 gram of calcium hydroxide per every 10 grams of initial seed powder. Weigh 1g Ca(HO)2 and place in shot glass with about 20ml of water. Add the basic solution to the dish with dried residue. Swish it around and mix it thorougly, scraping and folding to make a wet paste. Let it sit for no less than 10 minutes for reaction take place.

Step 6) Dry seed paste.
Now dry the seed paste. It's best to do step gently with little to no heat, just fan dry. Flatten out the wet paste on the dish, spreading it out over the whole bottom surface for faster drying. It should take 30 - 45 minutrs. Must be completely dry for the next step.

Step 7) Extract with acetone.
Scrape up all the dry basified seed paste and transfer to 100 ml shot glass. (I use a stanly knife razor blade). Do 3 x 100ml pulls with acetone (keeping the acetone), or until it's fairly clear. Dont bother trying to get every last bit of alkaloid, you'll waste your time and solvents, 3 pulls is plenty. Pour the acetone into shot glass containing seed material, stir it around and break up the clumps if needed. Wait about 10 minutes per pull for sediment to form at bottom them siphon out with glass pipette onto evaporation dish. Evaporate in well ventilated area in front of fan. (no heat, no flame, dangerous).
If this step is done in high humidity conditions condensation will form on the dish and inevitably water will get into the acetone, it's not a huge deal but it'll take longer to evaporate.

After all the acetone evaporate you'll be left with very clean tan/brown cystaline powder. Transfer it to storage jar and enjoy.

I did this experiment on 5.4 grams and yielded 350 mg of bufotenine powder. It vaporizes very clean not harsh on lungs and is potent/active.



NOTES: Each seed weighs on average 160 mg. 1/4 of this weight is the seed husk. About 84 whole seeds will equall 10 grams of dehull seeds. 10÷(0.160×0.75) = 83.333. Experiments have shown about half the raw seed weight is water soluble.
Vaporizing effect begin about 2-4 heart beats.


HEALTH WARNING: Consumption of Bufotenine is vasoconstrictive, meaning the narrowing (constriction) of blood vessels by small muscles in their walls. When blood vessels constrict, blood flow is slowed or blocked, which can increase your risk of heart disease and stroke. Consider whether experimenting with this drug is right for you.

Looks good.

But lets agree not to vape calcium?

I believe and anyone feel free to correct me, calcium nitride and oxide can be produced which would be very bad for the lungs.
I don't think calcium hydroxide would get carried over in acetone and unsure if bufotenine forms with calcium, if it does this should not be vaped/ smoked, if it doesn't then you have FB bufo.

The TEK looks indeed really good but I acknowledge the problems with calcium nitride and -oxide ending up in the extract. Please don't quote me on it but the boiling point of calcium oxide is far beyond the temperatures needed for vapourising bufotenine. So maybe the calcium oxide isn't vapourised but stays behind in the residue. But I'm really not sure about that... Also one should really prefer FB bufotenine for any vapourisation or smoking

Claims of the combustion of calcium is unsubstantiated, although concerns are legitimate. Calcium is food safe and low toxicity. It is antacid. At best it may irritate your lungs if inhaled but with the amounts vaporised if any, it would have miniscule negative consequence. I'd be more concerned about using naptha, benzene, xylene, toluene and sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner), or the vasoconstriction. Calcium is much safer. If at all concerned can substitute calcium hydroxide with sodium carbonate.

The boiling point of Calcium is 1484 degrees celsius, and most salts of calcium even higher so it would'nt actually burn at regular vaporization temperatures. Calcium hydroxide is not soluble in acetone. Unless there is some water in the acetone which will pick up some unwanted gunk from the basified powder, and even then Calcium hydroxide is poorly soluble in water 1.587 mg/ml. Calcium hydroxide will degrade to less caustic calcium carbonate with prolonged exposure to the air. Calcium hydroxide is the alkalinizing ingredient used in regularly made yopo snuff powder, except in this technique we're extracting the psychoactive molecules. Calcium hydroxide (lime water) has a PH of 12.4 but by the time it's mixed in with the seed material and counteracted by the acids it may be less, perhaps neutralised.

The original intent of the development of this technique is for purpose of making full spectrum yopo seed extract, hence the use of calcium hydroxide which is a stronger alkaline to insure the freebase of Bufotenine, DMT and 5meoDMT.

The reasoning for the amount of calcium hyrdoxide used in the extraction is considering average yield of bufotenine in seeds is 5% we use that in our calculation. 10g×(5÷100)= 500mg, plus trace amount of other alkaloids. 1g/10g just to be on the safe side and have more than not enough.

First part made me laugh.



Safety Data Sheet here.
And calcium oxide has a PH of 12.

One love

As the extract is water-based I think there is a high chance of having quite a bunch of other stuff inside. As I wrote in that other thread most molecules within living beings are optimized for water-borne interactions, so naturally a water extract will extract the most stuff. As there is not much of a cleanup except the defat at the start and the acetone step, chances are high to get a lot of other stuff into the product. And as you said you have figured out roughly 50 % water solubles (5 g out of 10 g), which is quite likely indicating this happens. Also regarding the defat step, Bufotenin is even insoluble as the freebase in Limonene or Toluene. Doing the defat after freebasing and not before might be much more effective.

Also again Bufotenine is heat sensitive and will degrade at 170 °C within seconds and at 140 °C within minutes. This is for heating the pure compound, but then I would not assume that it is totally heat tolerant inside of water.

It might be interesting to do a check with TLC, which of course is only a qualitative method, but it would give a rough idea how much Bufotenine is still intact and also if much unwanted water-soluble stuff made it over. Pure Bufotenine will give a spot at roughly the half of the TLC plate, with a lot of water soluble stuff there will be a long line from the bottom the the middle or maybe even until the top.

But now there is an issue with Calcium Bufotenate which made me believe this is an urban legend anyways, as I told: You cannot smoke it. I created it from the pure educts, so what I tested was 100 % Calcium Bufotenate. There is no evaporation. I would even expect it without any test, as I think Ca2+ will not evaporate. Salts can evaporate (like Bufotenine Benzoate), but only if both parts are organic molecules, not if 1 is an inorganic molecule. That being said I highly doubt that people ever created Calcium Bufotenate and really smoked it.

Picture from heating:


Now your goal anyways is to aim for a snuff, so this would not matter. But while making that experiments, I also checked the solubility - which would pose some problems here. As you can read here I also tried to dissolve Calcium-Bufotenine back in water and it did not work.

The takeaways have been:


Calcium Bufotenate is not soluble in water, which is as expected for Calcium-Salts


Calcium Bufotenate is not soluble in Acetone, which is as expected for Salts in general (except few double-organic salts).

That means while no Evaporation would not be a problem for a Snuff, it means the pure compound should not dissolve in Acetone. Any true Calcium-Bufotenate would probably be left behind if you extract with Acetone, only catching up any potentially non-transformed Freebase Bufotenine. So the Snuff might have some activity, but it could be less as the true Ca-Salt should not be carried over.

You might check out the potency of the original Snuff, containing all stuff and compare it to the water-dissolved leftovers and to the stuff extracted from Acetone. Based on the behaviour of the pure compound I would assume the highest potency is retained in another fraction than the Acetone.

Thanks Brennendes Wasser, the purpose of this technique is full spectrum yopo seed extract, not calcium bufotenate specifically. If it was the reaction time would be alot longer. No doubt we recognise your contribution to bufotenine reaserch.

The purpose of defatting first on the dry powder is three fold. One, so that the rest of the extraction eliminates residue solvent. Two, so that it's not a huge sticky mess when evaporating the water phase. Three, to leave any amount of DMT and 5meoDMT in the seed powder. The defat steps makes a much cleaner end product.

Also most of the water solubles picked up by the water phase are infact not soluble in the acetone at the end.

The 2023 extraction technique is legit and the product is very clean.
It's an improvement of the reb barron tech on erowid, with an added and desirable defat step, eliminating unnecessary ingredients such as isopropyl alcohol and acids, shorter wait times and more detailed extaction steps.

The good thing about this extraction technique is any DMT or 5MeoDMT within the seeds will be present in the end product. It's full spectrum yopo seed extract.

I could imagine Acetone pulling also very strong like water, but probably a little less junk. But that would more be based on theory, but it could be meaningful. At least pulling with Acetone will definetly very effectively pull Freebase Bufo, while the salt form is not too sure.

About the defatting, if it is done prior to adding a base, it will only collect very non-polar fats. But if done after freebasing, it will also carry away molecules that might also have a Nitrogen, but therefore dont get carried away when defatting the initial seed material, even though you might normally want to remove them.

So you could do it like this:

1. Freebase the seeds
2. Defat with Limonene or Toluene, could be even warm, as it will never dissolve Bufo
3. Extract with Acetone
4. Evaporate and then do your last step, combining the remainder with some Ca(OH)2.

Just from theory I think that might remove more unwanted stuff, while also getting you a Ca-Bufotenate snuff at the end.
BUT of course without any test, maybe your initial water extract is still just as fine. I was simply thinking I would expect more unwanted stuff to be carried over this way, but as long as nobody truly tested it, there is no way to know it. So could only be known by testing the final product that you got and until that the stuff I wrote above is neither better nor worse I guess.

The extraction could be done using sodium carbonate instead of calcium hydroxide and will still yield acetone soluble bufotenine freebase that's good for vaporization.

I dont think much of a conclusion can be drawn from your experiment, it's perplexing but obviously contrary to the multitude of successful extractions using acetone and vaporization.

I keep the freebased material from previous batches as it would contain some active molecules still in there after acetone extraction. I snuffed a small amount and it's active but alot of body load and damn blocked my nose for 2 days. I actually dont enjoy snuffing yopo now, prefer to vaporize. What is left behind after the acetone extraction is mostly unwanted plant material.

True, but then you would also only need 1 additional step of salting out from Aceton and you would end up anyways at the TEK of _Trip_ and Woolmer.



To me the conclusions are pretty clear, Calcium Bufotenate does not dissolve in water or Aceton and also does not vaporize. That comes what I would expect from such a compound. If people have still smoked their whole snuff, which still contained all the plant material and found some activity, that is still possible, but does not mean that you could get any effect from smoking pure Calcium Bufotenate.

I really studied this compound for months trying to get a way to produce it 100 % pure and crystalline and I think the experiments have been the first to really record all its properties. The stuff that has been reported on Bluelight is mostly red goo to at maximum red chunks solidified after days of waiting with unknown purity. If your goal is to get pure Bufotenine, the established TEKs will grant you that.

But I got into searching for pure Bufo after 69ron wrote that pure Bufo lacks any nausea or vasoconstriction and would be the most colourful, least psychedelic experience of all 3 common plant Tryptamines. My ultimate conclusion now is that even pure Bufotenine produces nausea and vasoconstriction, even worse it combusts while heating and will create harsh smoke. There is a workaround by using the Bufotenine Benzoate, but this will not safe you from the nausea and vasoconstriction.
I guess this is something that can never be overcome due to its similarity with Serotonin, which also acts in a lot of physiological pathways that regulate many body functions like heat management etc. So at this point I can second what the original studies in the 60's have found. Unpleasant side reactions upon ingestion of pure Bufotenine. Still, being not psychoactive is definetly wrong, as Jonathan Ott found in the 90s.

But a true psychedelic dose like 20 mg is hard to smoke due to it's side effects and so I never got into any breakthrough state with that stuff, even though it should be a little more potent than DMT. Therefore I'm out of Bufo Research, but I think all the relevant data for others online now.