Hello, this is my first post on the nexus.

First of all, I want to say I am deeply thankful for the knowledge and wisdom in this forum. It has helped me tremendously in my life journey and for that I will always be grateful. It is a privilege for me to be a part of this community 🙏❤️

I'm doing my first extractions with MHRB using the max ion TEK. I'm not evaporating any naphtha before freezing and using lighter fluid that passed the "evap clean" test. Everything is looking great, but after the freezer xtalization I'm seeing some mucus-like yellow floaters above the DMT xtals. See image below of what the mucus looks like (sorry for poor image quality).

Does anyone know what the mucus is? Is it DMT that xtalized differently? A mix of DMT and other things? Simply other things? Should I try to keep it or pour it off?

Apologies if this has been answered already (could not find it). Thank you 🙏

Yep! It's just DMT.

The yellowing can be another polymer of DMT.

Often, when my white DMT xtals are sitting in the dish, the periphery of them typically has that yellowing.

It may also be a slight amount of plant fat, which to my knowledge, is okay.

Evaporating down before freeze precipitation will aid in all of the DMT crashing out of the solvent.

And welcome to the nexus

One love

Thanks! I will use the yellow snot as-is and not worry about it.

I understand that evaporating new solvent will help yield, but I want to maximize solvent reuse. It is also my understanding that after a first run without evaporating, yield will not be affected since used solvent comes "pre-saturated" at the freezer temp. It may take one or more pulls to get all the DMT, but other than that, I believe the first no-evap only a first time yield investment. If I'm missing or misunderstanding something please let me know 🙂

Thanks again!

Hahaha, we're on slightly different pages

Evaporating it down allows more of the DMT molecules to bind together. This prevents DMT from remaining in the solvent after you've completed all of your pulls. If there isn't a reverse saturation where the DMT is saturating the solvent, there's likely DMT in the solvent that you can't see because it hasn't been able to amalgamate with other molecules because there's too much solvent. So here, we're talking about the solvent after it's been used to pull.

So yield should be unaffected in this scenario. I'm more talking about you being able to retrieve all of the DMT from the solvent you worked so hard to extract

One love

Right, I think we are seeing things the same way. Let's go trough a quick hypothetical example,

- 100g of MHRB at 2% DMT
- 100ml x 5 pulls
- 1mg/ml DMT remains in the solvent at freezer temp (assumed for the sake of discussion, not a real number)
- Strategy A: evap pulls down to 100ml before freezing
- Strategy B: do not evap pulls before freezing

On the first extraction,

- Strategy A: Uses 500ml of new solvent with 100ml of of used solvent left over. Total yield 1.9g (100mg of DMT remian in the 100ml of solvent saved for next extraction).
- Strategy B: Uses 500ml of new solvent with 500ml of solvent left over (roughly). Total yield 1.5g (500mg of DMT remain in the 500ml of solvent saved for the next extraction).

However I think the loss of yield is only a one time thing, since the upon re-use the "conditioned" solvent helps out. On second and subsequent extractions:

- Strategy A: Uses 400ml of new solvent with 100ml of used solvent. Total yield 2g. Again, 100ml of solvent with 100mg of DMT are left over for reuse.
- Strategy B: Uses ~0ml of new solvent with 500ml of used solvent. Total yield 2g. Again, 500ml of solvent with 500mg of DMT are left over for reuse.

So I think that as long as multiple extractions are planned, not evaporating the solvent makes sense. There is a one time investment/deposit, but after that less solvent is used and the evap step can be skipped for similar yield. Also, once no more plant extractions are planned, strategy B allows to evap the 500ml to 100ml and, freeze, and recover the 400mg "DMT deposit" if desired.

This is only roughly speaking. In practice a little bit of solvent needs to be added as there are losses, but I don't think it changes the conclusion to first order.

Cheers and thank you for the welcome ❤️

I think I got you now. Pretty much, you're allowing the solvent you reuse to become more saturated each time you perform an extraction. That makes sense.

I reuse my solvent until the jar of old solvent is almost out. I allow a little bit to evaporate then proceed with freeze precipitation and then pour off the rest and dry. Our strategies are slightly similar.

One love

Quick update: Finished the max ion extraction and made some DMT citrate E-juice with the crystals + snot from the post above (which scraped up to a yellow powder). Followed Loveall's ratios to make the juice (did not test for pH, assumed it would be neutral like his). Juice vaped well/smooth/effective and I had an amazing experience.

- First pull: 0.95% (950mg)
- Pulls 2-5: 0.5% (500mg)
- Total yield:1.45% (1450mg)

I understand the DMT salt e-juice is expected to have a great shelf life (unlike alakline freebase e-juice which will change color). So I think I'm all set for a while. I have started to build a temple room to have a nice space to meditate and share this gift.

I'm very grateful for the information and help found here.

Thank you Voidmatrix for the guidance 🙂

I'm using Gordo Tek. I was wondering if it would be okay to use pie plates with silicone, plastic, or rubber lids instead of clingwrap, for the various stages? Or could sealing everything in this way cause issues? I know I read the answer to this here somewhere. But now I can't find it for the life of me. Many thanks.

Silicone would be your best bet, better than clingwrap. PP or PE lids with a silicone seal would be fine; whatever you choose just avoid splashing solvent onto it. The main problem would be dissolving plasticizers into the naphtha that way.

Natural rubber would be best avoided as it may soften, perish and/or stick.

Materials compatibility charts are useful when looking into this kind of stuff.

Is it normal to lose 160mg of product during the re-x?
Was recrystallizing 580mg with heptane, and only got 420sh back.
I was using a big dish , don't know if that has something to do with it

You'll always get a lil less than you put in with re-xing.

One love

Hi all ya i am new so i hope u can help me. I am new and i did a extraction from youtube i think i used to much solvend. About 1500 ml per pull. I collect all the naptha after the pull in 1 container. About 8 pull in one pyrex dish. I put it in the freezer and i can see much milky and whitish stuff flowing. I think there is to much naptha to let the crystals attach to the pyrex dish. Is it possible to let more naptha evaporating and freeze again to get crystals? Hope some one can help me!

It sounds like either did a large volume extraction on perhaps a kilo of bark, or added an extra "0" accidentally. I have never extracted more than 100 grams of bark at a time, and typically use 90ml per pull.

You can take your dish out of the freeze, let it come to room temp to avoid condensation and then let it evaporate down to become a little more saturated and freeze. I'll let it evap down to half the volume (measured by marking the container at the original level and eyeing it) in open air, perhaps aided with a fan (but watch it if you do, it will evap FAST) and then cover and put it in freezer for at least 16 hours.

Thank you for the message, i did not had a big amount of bark. Just 100 grams. I let id evaporating way down, now in 2 containers in the firdge. Hopfully it will be good this time. I order a new batch of mhrb.i did notitice my solvend is terpentine.it says bio terpentine. So i am gonna swap that for the zippo fuel.

Do you have a picture of the solvent container, or some more specific data such as the brand or even the SDS which can be looked up on the web?

Bio terpentine sounds like it might not be suitable for freeze precipitation if it's one of the terpene hydrocarbons or perhaps a fatty acid ester of some kind.

Or is it bio turpentine like this?:


In which case you might be better off recovering the DMT by back-washing into vinegar or a citric acid solution, keeping the volumes low. This acidic solution can then be processed as before with addition of base and recovery of the freebase in far smaller volumes of warm naphtha if you're determined to try freeze precipitation.

If the vinegar wash is sufficiently concentrated, you may be able to recover freebase simply by adding base to it and setting it in the fridge.

Yes i think that is the problem, thank you for youre help, i trough away that last batch
Got some new terpentine.and mhrb The good one. And i gonna try again.

There is no need to throw it away. You can recover the DMT by washing the turpentine with vinegar.

The DMT will migrate into the vinegar, forming DMT acetate.

I am sorry did read it to late,i already trow it away. Now make a new batch. Keep in touch!

I just tried the 100G A/B tek (the one with vinegar and salt) but I fell asleep with the dish evaporating then when I looked at it the next night there’s no crystals at all, maybe some very faint/clear snowflake patterns but it’s kind of gummy looking. I added the next pull on top of it, now I’m just waiting for it to evaporate. This is my fifth attempt, my first two were successful but the next two were not so I’m wondering if this root material is bunk.[ [snip snip snip-no sourcing talk]. Has anyone else had issues with bad bark? Btw, the first two times I didn’t do the salt/vinegar method, I just pipetted (is that a word?) the layer off the purple soup then let it evaporate in freezer. I followed the instructions to the word this time so what else could be wrong? Thanks so much for any advice you may have!!

I have edited your post to remove mention of sourcing watched materials. Please read the Attitude Page to familiarize yourself with the rules and expectations.



Now, I believe one of the technical terms is 'decant' but pipetting works too.

Did you forget to base before pulling? If not, your DMT is in your soup in salt form and so won't end up in the solvent until it's in its freebase form. Mix 40g of lye in 100ml of cool filtered or distilled water and pour into your vessel, then perform your pulls.

Your goo is likely a polymerization of DMT. Did you perform a defeat step? If not, that's what the goo may be.

Bunk bark can be an issue, but I'd like to explore what I've already asked before I'm prepared to default to that reason.

Hope this helps.

One love