It could help with emulsions but if the tek is followed correctly it shouldn't be an issue as the bark will be broken down significantly. The best way to reduce aeration is by mixing it gently which is more than possible to do with the bark left in, with or without a mag stirrer.



I could be easier to stir with but the tek you're using is 2L volume at 100g bark so not a very viscous mixture to begin with. I'm not sure how much it would really improve the contact and if even it did just mixing it longer would probably be the better option. The beauty with a mag stirrer is that you can mix it for a long ass time and breaking emulsions is as easy as putting it on/around the lowest setting then waiting. Just don't put it on max when mixing you can only need to start mixing the layers with a semi-vortex, time will do the rest.

You could rewash the sludge a few times but now I you would have to strongly question whether or not this makes things easier. So to summarize, in the scenario your described filtering out the bark could/would have some benefits but really you are adding extra complexity into something that shouldn't be a real issue to begin with. Add a few simple modifications that have less chance to lose yield and you're golden. Might also just be a good idea to find a tek using a mag stirrer?

Sorry, am a new member here but have been minorly succesful in the past.

SWIM wants to know the heat/vs time question, regardless of pH breakdown. SWIM has basic extraction knowledge, but would like to know the best interface method. Would the ieal be making an emulsion (for surface area) and then breaking it get the most transfer from 1 phase to the other?

SWIM has 'copy exacted' quoted tek, but it seems as in all cases is base->NPS is the nexus (no pun intended) of transfer, and a gas phase (air) entering the binary phase with air has added the emulsion... SWIM is just wondering a method that could be done cold and increase interface time between phases, for safety and looking for any helpful tips

In so many words... how lojng would it take for our plants to truly be spent, with time and saturation... SWIM has seen the pkA values, etc.. but is asking for wisdom... if one had something in base phase for many hours, at what pint is the bark ready for a nut-milk bag or something of the sort?

Hi Nexus, new here.

I've been lurking around as a stalker for a while, and now I'm nearing my first extraction. Yay!

I do have a question that I'd like to get some more clarity to, as I'm concerned about the safety and quality of my final product:

I'm considering A/B with fp (freeze per.. something), and I've already gotten myself some of what is called naphtha in the US. I've read that it should not leave any residues when evaporating.

But how much residue is no no residue? My naphtha leaves a faint, inconsistent ring when evaporating a drop from a clear mirror. Like an one you really need to look for to notice, but it's there.

Do you think this naphtha would be safe to use, or should the evaporation leave absolutely no marks whatsoever?

Thank you greatly if you're willing to share your wisdom.

Hopefully information in this thread and this thread will shed some light.



One love

Dear fellow Nexians - Thank you for all the knowledge and resources in this forum. They have proved so valuable over the past few years - SWIM has completed SWIMs third successful extraction. SWIM has a pretty basic question perhaps someone can help me with. What does SWIM do with some DMT 'goo' stuck to the filter paper SWIM filtered the freeze precipitated naphtha. SWIM let the filter dry out. most of it is crystal powder which SWIM seperated to wash out, but SWIM noticed not a negligable amount (approx 100mg, enough for two hugeish hits) is left stuck to one of the filters. Is there a quick and easy way SWIM can get it off the coffee filter to be able to smoke at some point?

SWIM also has some 67mg goo after rinsing the pull jars with IPA and evaping that stuck to a rizla paper - this is also good for one or two good hits, so would ideally like to get it off the rizla - unless rolling a really potent hyperspace joint is the way to go. SWIM can also stuff the spice covered bits of the rizla into a GVG and vape the spice right out, but SWIM imagines it won't be the cleanest hit. SWIM is considering soaking the coffee filter and rizla in some Naptha or IPA and then evaping that out to scrape whats left onto a more amenable surface but SWIM doesn't want to loose any spice in the process. Basically SWIM is trying to conserve as much of the good stuff as possible. Any tips on this front would be super helpful. Thank you once again to all you knowledgable folks

Alright SWIM thinks they've run into some issues, SWIM had transferred all of the acacia acuminata goo that was very active to one beaker and performed a dry ice Co2 NMT separation in xylene because SWIM hear it leaves no traces of DMT behind compared to shellite which traps DMT inside the NMT.

SWIM filled this beaker of acacia acuminata goo with approximately 200ml clean xylene 2 times. Agitated it whilst dropping in some dry ice until SWIM seen no more precipitation.

Immediately there was a thick clump of extremely waxy red stuff that took a sec to build up after agitation.

The mixture became cloudy prior to settling down with a wax and a yellow hue to it layered down the bottom and sides.

After letting it settle a yellowish layer remained on the bottom along with the waxy red globs. They can only assume the globs were NMT as was the yellowish waxyness down the bottom.

They did 2 pulls with the same amount of xylene each time , Agitated with dry ice and decanted to a pyrex dish to freeze precipitate.

Questions are

Is the white waxy white stuff stuck to the bottom NMT or DMT because swim plans on doing 2 more pulls.
Is the red goop NMT also?
They just read DMT can't freeze precipitate out of xylene so what are they going to do. Have they lost the product? There would be 0 fats in the xylene but supposedly DMT is too soluble in xylene.

This is the guide they followed.

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=48737

You didn't loose the DMT because it is in Xylene and won't freeze preciptate. There are several ways to get it back, you can do a mini liquid-liquid A/B into naphtha. Or FASA precipitation of DMT fumarate and conversion of that to FB.

Also, you don't need to do the SWIM thing anymore.

I didn't think I lost it.

Do you mind sharing a mini a/b please.

Thank you! I'll go through those, seems like I shouldn't worry too much in this case.

Mini a/b: extract the xylene with acidic water (e.g. diluted vinegar). One pull is enough, if the xylene clouds, shake until it clears up. Add a minimal amount of lye to the pulled water to get pH to ~12 (try to not overshoot) and pull with light naphtha a few times (if water becomes cloudy pull until clear).

So I'm back again after my mini a/b. I followed the earthwalkers mini a/b guide and all steps turned out perfectly except I'm left with some questions and a mystery goo which apparently can't be nmt according to a reddit user because I extracted from acuminata root bark.

So here's a rundown of what I did

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=48737

Combined all my "goo" I extracted from AARB and disolved in xylene. Once in xylene I added a few small pieces of dry ice to precipitate what I thought was NMT until no more precipitated.

I decanted off my xylene carefully leaving behind a goopy mess with hard tree sap like red goop.

I rinsed with fresh xylene twice then performed earthwalkers mini a/b as suggested by users here. Once again everything went smoothly but what is the red goop and beigey orange goop stuck to the bottom of my beaker and around the small beaker in pic 2

The last pics of the mini A/b show a substance that might be dmt I didn't pull it, Only pulled clean solvent.

I'm going to do another C02 precip on the red goo I have a few more times to see if I can extract more crystals trapped in it.

Why does the white goop in the last pics float to the top and stay therr unless I tap it down with my finger?

Hoping it all looks right.

Pics below.

https://imgur.com/a/gsdkvT1

Mystery red goo after xylene c02 precip. It was hardened but melted.

I have some questions regarding a sodium carbonate wash i did to purify some DMT pulled earlier from MHRB using an STB tek.
100g of MHRB yielded roughly 1.35 grams of DMT freeze precipitated - minus evap. I suspected that some lye impurities had crept in some of the pulls so I took the combination of freeze precep from pulls 2-3 roughly 0.5g of DMT and attempted an NaCO wash. I ended up with a small amount of warmed naphtha which i supposed to have contained most of the DMT. I then put this solution in a shotglass and popped that in the freezer. The next day the shotglass had some crystalization on the edges of the glass. I retrieved some very pure looking crystals from freeze perecp and collected them on a tray to evaporate fully yielding a cream colored powder. I assumed that the remainder would be in the cool naphtha and put that out to evaporate in a dish. However, when I weighed the crystals from freeze percep it amounted to roughly 60mg. By the time the evap dish dried out there appeared to be only a slight shiny film on the glass which i attempted to scrape with a razor to no avail. All in all, I was expecting to loose some of the yield, but maybe like 100-200mg and end up with 300-400 pure DMT. Did I make a mistake in the process, or was my original product so impure? In any case, I am looking forward to taking some hits of that very pure spice I did end up with I am sure its also stronger than what I have smoalked previously but I would still like to know where most of it went. I still have about 500mg from the first original pull saved up but now am hesitant to attempt a similar wahs on that. I am sure the answer is already somewhere on the Nexus, but if someone can point me to the right place it would be a huge help.

Not sure i can help with the current situation but i have found sodium carb washes are best done on combined naptha pulls where there is enough solvent to keep the alks from crashing at room temperature. Then evaporate the cleaned solvent 1/3 to 1/2 before freeze precip. Spice I have made this way seems to keep longer without discoloration. Last time i followed that up with a bestine reX and then dissolving the yield in a few drops of everclear to help release any trapped solvent. It was a bit gooey for a few days, scraped and chopped it a bit over a week or so and got some of the cleanest spice i have made. Takes some patience.

Thanks, that is what might have happened, the alks could have crashed out into the water when I was doing the wash.

I did improvise that step by combining a re-X step of disolving in warm naphtha with the carb wash step from Volvin's tek.

Next extraction I'll be sure to wash the combined pulls instead and then evap them to 50% before freeze percip. Appreciate the advice!

I am attempting my very first DMT extraction.

The method and amounts:

100g MHRB powder and 100g of NaOH in 1L of water in a bottle, shaken and left to rest in a warm bath for 1 hour.

I added 50ml of isopropyl alcohol, which I now find out is not going to separate. I now have naphtha, and wondering if I can extract from the solution that already has the 50ml of IPA in it?

Does anyone know?

You could try, but you'll likely see three liquid phases which gets a bit tricky.

Another option would be to add a load more NaOH - paying attention to its solubility - and then a few more dashes of the IPA. If you're lucky, a layer of red liquid will float to the top. Do a couple more pulls, the basic soup will be saturated with the IPA so if you get phase separation once you should get it again.

IPA would have been easier to work with in a so-called 'dry tek'. One way of switching over to dry tek from where you are at the moment is by adding the requisite amount of calcium chloride to react with the amount of NaOH you've added:

2NaOH + CaCl2 → 2NaCl + Ca(OH)2

80 grams of NaOH will react with 111 grams of anhydrous calcium chloride. In its commonly available form as a domestic dehumidifier, calcium chloride can be in the form of the dihydrate rather than being completely anhydrous. This means you may need to add 147 grams per 80 grams of NaOH.

That's tricky but as water and alcohol are miscible I imagine you can just switch to Naphtha and salvage your extraction. I doubt you will ever get your IPA to separate short of 'drying' your soup which creates problems of it's own. Even if IPA ends up in your NPS pulls it can be safely evaporated so no harm done. I would be reluctant to switch to a dry tek at this point as you may ruin the entire extraction.

Just as a pointer, IPA does separate from concentrated [aqueous] sodium carbonate solution. There's an upper phase of wet IPA and a lower one of slightly alcoholic basic water. While I haven't tried with sodium hydroxide, the behavior is likely to be similar. But a litre of water is quite a lot for 50mL of IPA to dissolve into.

Similarly (in that I've actually tried it), with an overly sloppy lime paste I've left it to evaporate in a warm place for a month and then carried on successfully thereafter. A whole litre of water might take a bit longer though, and the 50mL of isopropyl adds a bit of a fire hazard to the mix - as well as precluding the use of a microwave for the drying step.

Adding naphtha seems to be the straightforward thing to try but you will have to be wary of emulsions and weird phases separations, as well as the fact that IPA will prevent freeze precipitation from working.

And I'll take this opportunity once more to restate the golden rule of extracting - don't chuck anything away until you're sure you've got the goods!