When you reclaim crystals from the stem of the gvg, what is your technique? Whenever I rinse out with IPA and evaporate I am left with a brown oxidized residue rather than crystals. I know that oxidized DMT is still active, but I am hesitant to try it. Does anyone have experience with smoking it?

Yes, it is just fine. Rinse with IPA as you described, then evaporate onto a pinch of tobacco or whatever herb you have handy. Put in weed pipe and smoalk. Can be topped off with a pinch of harmala freebase. This was my first changa I really enjoyed it.

I have just recently started dabbling in NN DMT and invested in the GVG.

First tried with several screens and worked to a certain extent. Now have a liquid pad, accompanied with one screen just incase, and haven't had any leaking through and into the pipe and works perfect for me.

Took a little while to get the hang of it at first but have learned what works for me pretty good now. I have experience with bongs etc over the years, and have found out now that the GVG pipe to vaporise isn't really a necessity.

I personally think it's more suited to those who either aren't too familiar with bongs, or haven't experience smoking or that. I sometimes even take the ceramic top part out and just use it as a bong and had great results, but a torch lighter with the blue flame is very much needed to prevent nuking the crystals.

I've only cleaned my GVG once before and was fairly difficult, I used the torch lighter to melt the DMT resin and kept flushing it out in the sink. And this worked fairly ok, but time consuming. I plan on another clean later today and have some 91% rubbing alcohol ( don't have any flames or sparks in close proximity) as have read a few saying that it works wonders.

As said nothing has melted through the liquid pad so far so this clean is from using 6 or 7 gauzes in the past. Always nice to have a clean looking pipe though. So fingers crossed!

Salutations TheTranceEngineer,



Some of us never do - or at least not without some creative reconfiguration.



From my perspective it's even a limitation as glass is much less compatible with my own necessity to customize the pipe until it suits me (e.g. DiY) - and not the other way around by going thru a steep "learning curve". Using a Classic and/or Bronze Sherlock one can access a potential "next level" which actually awaited implementation since almost Y2K, while choosing the GVG model defeats a few novel scenarios...



The next step is to cut it in halves and insert a 0.75 g metal disc featured with plenty of holes but not so many it would create relatively thin structures, the later being undesirable in such application. Silicon Carbide Foam from VaporGenie's pipes ain't no ordinary material: it's truly "space-age" and hardly compares with lesser-quality substitutes. Too bad VG's excellent material selection remains clearly under-evaluated 2 decades later, to me it's a perfect candidate for convective heat conversion, or even conductive/radiative applications if prefered, depending on needs.



My consumption method & ritual changed to Pulse Heating after i realized i also needed "Inlet Water", which for the time being results from clean-butane burning in a VG pipe which involves direct inhalation of exhaust gases captured from the extra-hot corona of a torch flame... So one big issue with this option is that it can never become the "Plan-A" of purists concerned with butane-associated impurities, including from the lighter. Although SiC Foam juxtaposed to metal proved being highly compatible with Inlet Water i regret to comment it's probably not part of the plans for inventor and company author Dan Steinberg. Which means progress may have to come from elsewhere without infringing any of his author rights, considering the VG pipe design is patented (twice)! In other words you should know there's significant enhancements possible but NOT with a GVG and that's a shame IMHO.



My Classic and Bronze Sherlock duo only require the screen to get torch-cleaned (using their handle's back...) and i have a couple brushes to manage with the whole internal path. Which is no big deal as 94 % alcohol takes care of the rest once in a while anyway.



M'well be careful not to drop your GVG.

Good day, have fun!!

Rubbing alcohol cleaned the gvg to perfection. Put around a few table spoons inside and gave it a shake for about 30 seconds and it dissolved any residue and I flushed it out with water. Looks like a brand new pipe so cant complain.

In general I feel I've had better results just using the torch lighter and the GVG without the ceramic filter and being careful not to burn the dmt.

And yeah dont get me wrong the GVG is a cool looking pipe, but starting to think it was more of an impulse purchase and could have used dmt happily with most average pipes with ease.

Thanks for your knowledge and replies!

Hi again TheTranceEngineer,



The GVG is perfectible in principle, it may remain frozen in time in practice. As a matter of fact i think IH-driven solutions might suit your needs better. What i can tell i that my HA-generated bags render me miserable until cessasion becomes mandatory, having difficulty to recover for over half an hour. The same shredded vegetal once cooked (ABV) appears to have lost aroma/taste hints but at least its consumption is made successful again, while in comparison my Hot Dry Air Ovenizing contraption picks up dust for a most practical reason: 1 method of consumption causes severe intolerance and the other does not, though there were days when i would have found both pleasurable, if i had known better when i initiated myself to vaporism in 2010. Not to mention if i hadn't tried hard all that time to adapt my tools then maybe such intolerance wouldn't have gotten exacerbated this much to begin with...

In my opinion IH-driven Pulse Heating can be applied to a whole wide range of substances, just match energy and workload while exploiting heat's intrinsic incapacity to displace instantly, much less in matter and not even in SiC Foam despite the excellent thermal conductivity of its high-tech "tetrakaidecahedron" frame... Etc., etc.

Good day, have fun!!

FYI if your using a turbo flame arc or something similar with a metal body it helps to warm it up in your pocket first. I have issues with mine lighting when it’s even slightly cooler than room temp. Try that first if you’re having lighter issues.

Salutations GoneWiththeWind,



Hummm... That must be for somebody else. Just in case, i rarely experience issues related to the butane tank temperature causing a loss of throttle pressure or similar.



The lighter issue(s) i got with butane operation is what is refered to as "impurities", which i call "contaminants". More exactly the absence of long-term demographic healthwise studies is what prevents me from suggesting that clean-burning butane is OKay for a "Plan-A". Honestly i always considered it's NOT acceptable from a purist perspective to risk cummulative effects, that's why i'd move to Induction Heat applied to Silicon Carbide Foam heated by virtue of some dielectric losses, whatever. Otherwise it's an insulator comparable to various types of ceramics, nearly as clean as glass i presume.

Anyway simply try to imagine a porous/aerial surface measuring 12 ~ 16 mm (dia.) on which loose/fluffy "Dry Sift" has been sprinkled to fill its contact-surface pockets, with excess dust shaken off... Don't you think that's still going to be plenty for a single on-demand toke?

So if i ever get tired of butane technology that's most likely to be what i'm aiming for, eventually.

But i suspect you might as well get there 1st.

Good day, have fun!!

does anyone know how to get a gvg overseas?

Hi Nexians, I've read most, if not all of this super helpful thread so thank you all for your input so far. However, like the noob I am, I still have some questions.

I'm sure some of these can be answered by just getting on with it but I want to make sure I get it right. In particular I'm worried that whilst my wife has agreed to be my trip sitter I know she won't want to be responsible for managing the pipe or lighter and will freak out if I cough up a lung by burning the spice before disappearing into hyperspace. I want to make sure it's not a stressful experience for her too.

I have bought a GVG and have also got some 15mm liquid pads which shouldn't need cutting down. I've been practicing using it with some weed and it works great but I keep managing to set the weed on fire, even when I think I'm being really careful. I've seen several posts where people say the ceramic filter glows red hot. Whenever that happens on my GVG I have about half a second before the weed goes up in smoke. I usually only heat it for maybe 10 seconds before I think it might set fire where as I know you probably need a much longer pull to try to get all the spice in one go.

When using the GVG for DMT are you aiming to get the ceramic filter glowing? I'm concerned that with the liquid pad in the pipe it will be even closer to the ceramic filter and the potential for burning the spice is even greater than with the weed. The lighter I've got has a triple jet and is very hot. Could it be too hot for the GVG?

Secondly, how do people load the pipe? I know most people advocate melting the spice onto the liquid pad. Do you do this in situ, using some kind of funnel to aim it correctly onto the pad or should I remove the pad, melt the spice then put the pad back in?

My plan is to start with a low dose, maybe 10mg to check I can do it right, then maybe try a couple of intermediate doses before going for a breakthrough dose of 30mg. Does that sound sensible?

Finally, and I know this probably sounds stupid, but what does vaped DMT smell like? I just want to tell my wife what to expect so she's relaxed about the whole thing.

Thanks for your thoughts.

I received my GVG and torch lighter. Here is my prospective procedure from what I learned so far from this thread:

Melt dose into a ceramic pad: I ordered 2 extra ceramics, the ones that come installed in the cap.

Position loaded ceramic pad inside the vaping chamber and replace the cap.

Direct tip of torch flame cone towards the ceramic inside the cap while inhaling gently to increase temperature inside the chamber.

As vapor begins to flow, increase inhalation rate to modulate temperature and rate of vaporization so the vapor isn't uncomfortably thick but not so quickly that lungs are filled before clearing the dose.

Couple of questions:
The size of the flame is adjustable. How long should the cone be?

How close to the ceramic should the sharp tip of the blue flame be positioned? Should the flame tip touch the ceramic?

I am a flat out noob and so sorry for the question if it has already been answered but the amount of posts is impossible to get through. I have extracted dmt and had no real success with generic vaporiser. I want to get a GVG but when I go to the website there is only a "sherlock" or "bat". Which of these is the GVG you speak of?

https://vaporgenie.com/p...tegory/vaporizers/glass/

It's easier to see what you're doing when heating the bowl of the Sherlock pipe. The bat has a more compact shape. They're both glass vapor genies (GVGs) in that they have the same heat diffuser element that allows convective heating of the material. The goal in this is to optimise vaporisation while avoiding combustion.

I'll just add also, instead of using multiple screens or choreboy material to hold the dmt, this thread talks about a really effective alternative that's been around for some years now: ceramic flavor discs:

Bye-Bye Choreboy

Idk if the website in that thread is still active for those flavor discs, but i'm sure if you search you'll find other stores that carry them.

It's not impossible as I just did it and found the best explanation on the last page. There has to be a better way on helping noobs understand how to vape dmt with the gvg. I mean there isnt even clear instructions on the vg website on how their vaporiser works. It's all pretty secret squirrel that a simple video could clear up.

You want the Sherlock. Although now they have a mini Sherlock looks pretty slick also. But the Sherlock is the standard gvg.

I just want to give my recommendations of the Glass Bat Vapor Genie. I've never tried the Sherlock so I don't know how it compares bu the way I use the bat it's just perfect.

I use it with a 'alcohol candle', sucking in the flame from the top, something that would be hard with the Sherlock. The heat and water vapor makes the DMT vapor really smooth and the heat just right. I've never burned any spice as far as I know.

One downside is that it's hard to see when the vapor gets thick.

Hello everyone,
it's my first post after months of lurking and learning
I got the gvg after several failures with the mighty+bubbler and dab rig.
I put 15mg on the liquid pad and tried to suck up while my torch was heating the spice but ended up with nothing other than a mild relaxation. I don't think I get the proper technique and I have some questions: 1) if I put my torch vertically toward the ceramic filter it turns off after 1 sec, so I must tip the fire a 45deg is that correct? (I use a pb-207 that someone shared in this forum and said it was perfect for the job); 2) distance from the filter, less than 2 cm, I almost could see the light enter in the filter; 3) I start inhaling a bit while heating for 4-5 secs then the vapour came. I was able to inhale all the vapor and then tried to heat again but only a little vapor came out.
So I know that 15mg is threshold quantity but I'm not sure my technique is correct anyway I don't feel confident and concerned about waste my precious material, what do you think any advice?
many thanks

It sounds like you did everything alright. Did you get thick white smoke? Considering the second hit didn't produce any vapor, I assume so. I would try to up the dose, the GVG can be a little "on/off". The first time I tried with 10mg and got no effects at all. Then I waited half an hour and tried 30mg and it was off to candyland.

One thing I just learned is to suck slow for the first two seconds and then I hale harder for the rest of the hit. Allows you to get more through priming first.

One love