Thanks for the help regarding my questions.

I guess the main thing I was interested in was trying to avoid ending up with goo. A lot of people using Acacia end up with goo and supposedly it's from too much heat.

Glad to know any confusa tek should work fine as a replacement with Aanprb.

Oh fully aware of that article there I'm just genuinely interested in the science behind it.

If you end up with goo from an acacia extraction and skipped the defat can you re-x with shellite/naptha afterwards to clean the goo up into fluffy crystals?

It sure should. Crystals may be a little yellow, but it's just a specific polymer of DMT, and is just DMT.

One love

The presence of NMT can also contribute to goo formation in the various acacia extracts.

Great information so far and I appreciate the help.


I've found a tek I like the sound of, In the thread the OP goes on to suggest if the solution was salted the end yield may be higher. From research this is because of the salt being soluble in water and forcing more alkaloids out if I'm not mistaken.

If I wanted to add a salting step to a tek I've found how would I add in that step to the tek before basifying?

Would it even be worth it because the OP seems to think so and I think it's worth a try. Is there a ratio for salt to solution I should be using?

One love

What does it mean by topped up to make a final amount, Does that mean starting with 70g of salt dissolved in 200ml of water, Topping up to 1l before adding to your soup because that seems like an awful lot of liquid to be adding.

To scale that up for more bark would 200g bark just be double that formula for water and salt?

You are just amazing also, Thankyou so much!

Dissolve your salt in 200ml, then pour into the soup, then top off with the other 800ml. At least that's my interpretation.

It's by volume so you wouldn't just double.

If I may, start with less starting material. There's a consensus around here about getting better percentage of yield with smaller extractions.

My soup usually ends up about 1.5L.

And thank you, just trying to lend a hand.



One love

The tek I'm considering following talks about doing it on a bit of a bigger scale to avoid goo issues that was the only reason why I liked that one.

It isn't a large extraction just to clarify most would consider it pretty average.

The science behind everything interests me too, I've been able to find ph values for acid and base stages and also been able to find ratios for lye to water but haven't been able to find much on scaling up salt still.

Those teks that already have a salt step are already predictable, Exploring what only 1 other person has done with this tek just seemed interesting to me.

I hope that last bit makes sense and you can understand my curiosity.

There was another post here on the forums stating salting did not increase yields but many disagree and were saying on the second and third pulls they were averaging more so I wanted to do my own experiment.

Hm, interesting, as I feel like you may actually run into more goo than less with more starting material. For my own curiosity and education, could you share that tek?

So yours is about 100g? I've actually decided to scale down and do 50g for better results.

In the good ol salt debate, I am in the camp that it helps with an increase in ionic strength.



And yes your curiosity and the understanding you're going for makes total sense. That said, I think you'll find this thread helpful in further grounding your understanding.

One love

I'd suggest diluting the concentrated salt solution to 1L before adding it to the acid soak would more resemble a standard procedure, and is my interpretation of the method.

Because higher ionic strength is suspected of increasing the degree of aggregation of DMT molecules and the consequent goo formation, it may prove necessary to use warm naphtha in a tek with salt in order to maximise yields. DMT goo aggregates are only really soluble in fairly hot naphtha.

Scatterday, I learn so much about chemistry from DF0, so I'd say add the salt the way he just described. On my next extraction I'm going to try that. I have done it that way before but don't recall a difference, so will pay more attention next time to see if there is any difference.

One love

My most recent attempt resulted in a 3% yield from Naphtha alone, I have not pulled with Xylene yet. I attribute it to using salt and heat from the beginning and "double pulls". I did 2 pulls per day for 4 days in a row so a total of 8 pulls. Each day the pulls were combined and placed in the freezer for 36 hours. 50 grams MHRB yielded 1.5 grams DMT. A variety of colors and textures were obtained from white crystals to brown goo but as I mix it with CBC the color and texture is of no real relevance to myself. In my experience the brown works the same as the white. I haven't bothered recrystallization as I don't ever get soup in my product by using multiple transfer vessels before the Pyrex dish. The first set produced bright white, second off white crystals, third yellow crystals and orange goo and finally fourth yellow crystals and brown goo. I believe 3% is unheard of in recent days, I've seen claims as far as 2.5% including my own but that was including Xylene pulls at the end and backsalting all solvents used, this time I have done none of that, only Naphtha pulls.

When adding salt to a step in a tek would it be best to add a saturated saline solution before or after you begin reducing your soup before basifying it?

For example a tek I'm reading through has 10l of acid soup that needs to be reduced to 2l. When should you add the saline?

Before or after reducing to 2l.

Since you're trying to increase ionic strength by adding the saline solution, I'd think after reduction.

That's a lot to reduce

One love

I would also add the salt after reducing. I add salt at the time I add NPS. I agree 10L soup is a whole lot to reduce. Larger extractions are grossly inefficient as well not only in my experience but from what I've read from others as well. The bigger the extraction the more inefficient it gets. My first attempt ever was on 400g powdered bark and once I broke the horrific emulsion I created I eventually got 2g DMT or 0.5% total yield. As I stated my most recent attempt was 1.5g from 50g MHRB or 3% yield.

Hi All,

Proud to be a new member of this community!

I have a question regarding the famed Earthwalker tek using the laid out modifications from Bl1nd here: https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=64608

My question is after step 4, basifying.

Before the NPS pulls, is it possible to remove the powdered root bark from the vessel? Or is there any other time where this can be strained out with less effect on yield?

Here's the thing, since whatever you strain out will be soaked with your DMT rich extraction liquid you are basically guaranteed to lose DMT. This is along with the possibility that cell lysing has not been completed but if you wait long enough on the base stage this won't be a problem.

2nd thing. Straining caustic liquid if not generally recommended just for safety reasons. If you're a novice I would advise against any deviations from the tek and just follow as described.

Why the ask anywho?

If you followed all the directions the sludge shouldn't be an issue. I occasionally get a small chunk that will clog the pippette and I wipe it off on the side of the jar and carry on with my pull.

Don't remove the bark. While the majority of alkaloids will break away from the cells of the plant matter, over time it will continue to release more. You will drastically limit your yield.

DMTrymptine also makes a good point about hazards of handling a caustic solution.

Patience is key.

One love

So basically I was thinking about this from an pull-efficiency perspectiv. Having purely liquid soup. I was thinking
A) reduces aeration and potentially redyces chance of emulsion
B) the mixture gets easier to stir etc i.e. with a hotplate/magnetic stir bar if there isn't sludge at the bottom... could give you closer to 'perfect' liquid liquid interfacing between the NPs and base soup

Aby thoughts? It does make sense that you would lose a bunch of the alkaloids that are nested in the sludge, but was thinking you could basically rehash the sludge a few times. Safety makes sense with straining the strong base as well