Hi Friends,

Just a post regarding a mistake I made so others can avoid it too.

Using the Max Ion tek, I prepared and extraction from MHRB all the way to the pull stage.

I got busy, and ended up letting it sit over a month.

Over the weekend I decided to complete the extraction. To my dismay, the bark inside became completely liquified, making each pull difficult to complete without getting any of the bark material with the pulls of solvent.

I was aware that the bark sitting in such a basic aqueous solution would break it down more, but didn't anticipate it being able to be sucked through the solvent.

That said, after basing, don't wait too long.

I had to definitely re-x so as to make sure the final yield was clean.

Lesson learned and shared.

One love

Decanting naphtha pulls into a "decoy" jar and then pouring that jar into a different jar usually eliminates this problem IME. The red sediments usually stick to the "decoy" and allow the clean naphtha to be poured away into a clean jar. If we are misunderstanding each other my apologies.

This is not a mistake. Fully lysed bark is the right way

Good looks brother. I do do that already, but was sucking up so much gunk from the basic solution that I assumed there were trace amounts that came with my pulls that I couldn't see, even after pouring from my decory vessel.

My pipette would barely touch the top of the solvent layer, and I'd release pressure as slowly as possible on the pipette's bulb, and still pull from the other aqueous layer. First time ever experiencing that.

One love.

I'm looking to learn Kumarajiva. Please tell me more. Is there a way to perform pulls a little more easily with it being so aqueous when that basic?

Do you say it's the right way because it gives higher yields?

My curiosity it sparked lol

One love

I love to soak my lye soups for extended periods especially with shredded or whole bark for full breakdown. I think I may know what you are referring to. If not foregive the assumptions please.

When aqueous starts to emulsify I find heat helps break it up (40c works for me). Also adding a little extra nps also allows to not have to dig so close to the liquid/aqueous layer to pull maximum spice. I always leave a few mm of nps and separate at completion and collect in a separate vessel for future separation in a tall narrow vessel. (usually after many pulls from many batches )

I find anytime I pull even a small amount of base into my nps I wind up with lye in my finished dmt powder. Simple re ex does not remove this. A mini a/b would work also but I have found this following method works well for me and is really very simple.

https://www.reddit.com/r...he_base_in_your_product/

Forgive me If its a faux pas to post a reddit link here. Let me know if this is offensive to anyone. This process works great for me if you have a separation funnel all the better. Ive been skipping the desiccant stage also due to a long wait for the anhydrous sodium sulfate (Na2SO4).
Gives me the cleanest and most pure spice I have yet to ingest. I have a rough throat and really sensitive to the lye in my product. since I started doing this my respiratory system has been really plesaed.

I think I'm going to pull the trigger and get a separately funnel. Thank you for mentioning it. Since I had been reasoning that a more thorough breakdown of the plant material would potentially yield higher results, I think I may give what I coined as a mistake another try.

One love

Sep funnel wont work with lye soup - too high viscosity. its a waste of money if thats the only reason you want to buy sep funnel.
if you are pulling emulsions with your pippete/turkey baster - you have to put your soup into water bath and bring the temperature
of the mix to nearly boiling point of the solvent (i am assuming you are using naptha). This will force the emulsion to break.
Make sure you do that with the LID OFF!

Pippeting the nps takes time and patience. You can go fast in the beggining but at the end you have to to it more carefully.
Use tall and narrow decoy container. Also, for your soup use a bottle that is narrowing towards its neck.

P.S.
To avoid emulsions, do not shake the bottle. Roll it instead like this: https://www.dmt-nexus.me...um/resource.ashx?a=49035

You have inadvertently given me so many kudos lol, thank you.

I always expect it to take me some time, and doing the pulls might be my favorite part so I try to always stay patient. The last two pulls are always the longest ones to perform in my experience.

And I do roll the jar instead of shaking.

I hadn't considered reheating the bark mix before performing the pulls. That's one I will try if this kind of situation ever comes up again.

Presently, I am using a large ball jar due to it's volume, but have been considering some with a skinnier neck. I may stop at a thrift store and see what kind of glass bottles they have that provide the proper volume for the Max Ion tek.

Thank you Kumarajiva. I really appreciate your help, experience, and insight.

One love

P.s. I love the black hole of information this forum has. Good looks on the link.

I recently found a little jar that the lid from a solvent can fits on. The jar is the same diameter as the lid and about 12 inches long. Its like a giant test tube w a lid and i just love working with it. I use it for mini a/b and for fumerate-freebase conversion and vice versa. Everything about it is awesome except its center of gravity. If I could find a jar 3 inches diameter and 3 feet long, I would be a happy camper.it would make the best extraction vessel.. when you tilt it, the nps travels the entire length contacting all aq. On the way.

That does sound like an amazing extraction vessel. Will be keeping my eyes out for one that looks similar. Maybe do a little hunting for one this weekend 🤔.

Thank you for sharing.

One love