Man I would love to try one of these! That price tag tho...ouch. Looks like a really nice device overall though.

Ive been using the Pax 3, its still quite pricey at around £200, however you can pick them up second hand a bit cheaper. Great stealth, and its nice and gentle, I guess good for new explorers.

I have been mostly unsuccessful using glass pipes, and only managed to reach the waiting room when a friend administered the spice. im currently exploring Harmalas and I am hopeful that a changa mix will be more effective.

Has anybody tried mixing PG and DMT together (like the ccell recipe) 1g DMT: 1ml PG?

Seems this would be the one of the best ways to use Storz and Bickel vapes. I've got a Mighty, and a Plenty to try out, but am waiting on extraction material...

Dosing the liquid pad with an eye dropper would make calculating the dose spot on.

The Plenty has one of the biggest vape chambers around (bigger than a volcano, I believe), and might be the best option to try...

Why are so many people mentioning vaporization temps of 150C, 160C and 180C? Are you talking about DMT Salts or DMT Freebase? DMT Freebase vaporizes at around 70C. Can you please clarify this point? If I go ahead and purchase an expensive Crafty, I want to be sure that it works as indended. Right now, I am now sure. If I had a Crafty I would set it at 70C and slowly move up to make sure that I don't burn the spice. Thank you for anyone who can clarify this point because I read a ton on the internet and the melting point temp is all over the place...

Also, I am looking at the Yocan Evolve Plus as I read many positive experiences with this device for the purpose of vaporizing DMT when used with a ceramic donut. But the question remains, if they are using DMT salts, perhaps it is working fine but if I use DMT Freebase it might burn since melting point is so low.

Salutations Ponymayou,

Although i can't help you choose the ultimate tool for a favourite enlightening substance there's some apparent confusion to clear about identifying "ideal" temperatures from pocket cannabis vaporizers. For example fancy/expensive precision-regulated "Hot Dry Air Ovenizers" (as i like to call those) simply belong to one class of devices usually featured with a relatively slow/steady ritual, so if we consider that energy never travels nor transforms into heat at infinite speed then please lets keep in mind all digital temperature readings can only report an event of the past in similar thermostatic realms - which practically brings us back to the dark ages of post-war soldering irons... Meanwhile some mission-critical laboratory analysis adopted Pulse Heating since at least the late '80s, with temperature now defining energy as a function of susceptor material and mass, hence limiting the amount of bowl workload reflecting energy changed into (heat) work instead. One method causes denaturation while the other minimizes it, in other words it's only to be expected when "cooking" occurs in an oven, which makes me think if in need for the superior features of a Pulse Heating method then why start with a slow thermostatic setup posing as the wrong solution trying to fix the wrong problem anyway!??

Even the venerable GVG won't provide universal access to "Micro-Bursting" as i came to understand it, possibly because this 20-years old design and its associated ritual were meant to stick with the relatively slow-steady market at the cost of requiring excellent lungs control & skills. The good news being that such orientation can be corrected in selected models which won't threaten to break in pieces when modified, for example the Aluminium "Classic" look or Bronze/Sherlock not to mention them.

Good day, have fun!!

The melting point reported for the freebase is a bit variable, but DMT isn't volatile enough to vaporize effectively near the melting point. The boiling point of freebase is somewhere around 160°C... at extremely low pressures (and the boiling point is when vapor pressure is equal to the pressure of the surrounding air, the 160°C measurement was at 80 Pa, so less than 1/1000 of atmospheric). The temperatures people are discussing are effective for getting vapor without burning it (at atmospheric pressure).

The melting point values are almost bimodal IIRC, and relatively recently (compared to many of the references) DMT was found to be polymorphic, meaning it can crystallize into multiple (2) structures.

After some thought about the crafty/mighty I have arrived to some conclusions, correct me if I'm wrong.
People haved successfully reached hyperspace at different temps but apparently the closer to 200°C ~ the better?
Given the small loading chamber a bigger dosage (>40mg) would prove to be difficult to load on the liquid pad. Maybe you could take better advantage of the volume of the pad by premelting the fb xtals on the liquid pad (possibly even one placed on a dosing capsule for liquids)
Apart from the traditional methods of premelting , couldn't one just warm up a bit the vape unit? And watch closely as the stuff melts all in the pad, turning off the heat quick enough not to vaporize it? Now why wouldn't u operate the unit without the cooling cap on?

Lastly, from my understanding a key part of a b-trough is to deliver as much vape to your lungs in the first draw as possible .. but with such portable devices, you're being forced to take multiple draws which will render mild results. Also, what do u do if your stuff vaporizes while u hold in between tokes ? That's why my guess is : go with plenty/vulcano or the good ol' sandwich

I have an Arizer Solo portable vaporaizer which has a lowest heat setting of 185°C.
I usually sandwich the DMT between some herb, so the DMT powder is heated by the hot air that you draw into your lungs rather than directly by the heating element, I suspect that the air temperature is much lower.
My device switches off to save power 12 minutes after switching on. With 40mg of DMT, I get most of the effect (enough for a breakthrough) in the first 12 minutes but I can still get some effect within the first few minutes of switching it on a second time, although I'm usually tripping so don't bother.

Hey EndoUnit,

All I can say is when I was trying with the crafty, I tried 20 different types of temp set up/pads-no pads/"sandwich method like" etc., and tho I had some pleasant experience, I could never take 20mg in less than 3 or 4 hits. So, of course, not even close to a BT.
And It's a pretty expensive device. I had it, because of MJ, so I don't care, but you know, if someone were to consider buying it for DMT, I would want them to know that it can be hard to play with.
On the other hand, if you don't want the GVG and are looking for an electronic method, the e-mesh technique is far more efficient.

The information of 70 °c is totally wrong.

It is the value from wikipedia, but somebody wrote it there and it was not changed since ages. Even when you dont know the molecule it is totally rubbish, as even the benzene ring of DMT would have a boiling point of 80 °C if you could just cut it off.

So just ignore this value - the vaporization temp is indeed at least 155 °C and lower than 190 °C.

I even tested the melting point of some samples and 1 was not melting at 70 °C, even though it was super pure.
Salts may not even vaporize at all, but more decompose as a black tar, but not tested, this would also be not relevant as it would be super harsh to inhale I guess These salts may have a vap temp of 400 °C+, nothing one could use for anything.

Salutations Teamleary,



IMO only if one shall persist in rejecting relevant Bi-Energy correctives for a 20 years old design, which implies a need to leave glass restrictions to purists in the 1st place and then a brave switch to electromagnetic Induction Heat as this would get rid of low-voltage/high-current issues by turning the susceptor into a "secondary" circuit in some power transformer anyway.

If at least there were rational efforts made to avoid wasting heat by adoption of an Hybrid Core structure that clearly supports my alternative "slingshot" method/ritual as already described and demonstrated many months ago, but no, this alone has to wait while still pretending the e-mesh energy budget is anything like optimized. Calling a rheostat emulation "electronic" as a bonus...

Good day, have fun!!

You already vaped DMT a few times, and you believe in molecules?

Interesting combination.

Done quite a lot of research. The apx pulsar volt has the most consistent reviews out of any device commonly used for dmt. Easiest handling, foolproof, 3 hits or less to breakthrough, and efficient with needing very little spice to blast off

I am using Volcano Classic

this is from the manual

settings:in Celzius
1=130C
2=142
3=154
4=166
5=178
6=190
7=202
8=214
9=226

I have used it @#8 and it works,can't recommend on breakthough as only going to waiting room stages,I can take the ballon in 3 drags,but using 10-20mg

and tho I had some pleasant experience, I could never take 20mg in less than 3 or 4 hits. So, of course, not even close to a BT.
And It's a pretty expensive device. I had it, because of MJ, so I don't care, but you know, if someone were to consider buying it for DMT, I would want them to know that it can be hard to play with.
On the other hand, if you don't want the GVG and are looking for an electronic method, the e-mesh technique is far more efficient. [/quote]




I can agree with this,I use Volcano for MJ and I like to spice up my lower dose trip with DMT so it works great,if me and my mate fill with 20mg and share the ballon we just get it right,
I am not aiming for a breaktrough yet...

With MJ I can do the full bag in 3 drags so can't see it a problem if I used 40-50mg(never tried ) to BT however.
I make my own bags with S&B original bags and using mesh

After 6 (six) years, finally, the answer:

One Liquid Pad
One Metal Screen on top of the Liquid Pad

With the Vaporizer top removed, place Liquid Pad in - and then place Metal Screen on top of the Liquid Pad.
Make sure no product is on the sides, just on top of the Metal Screen - evenly spread.
Do not put the Vaporizer top back on yet.
With top off - Activate 150° C and wait till it hits 150° C or so. It will start melting. Wait to see it start melting.

Now increase temperature to 180° C
Put the top back on.

Wait till 180° C
Immediately inhale slowly and deeeeply at 180° C

After first inhale - increase by three degrees to 183° C
Slowly and deeeeply inhale at 183° C

After second inhale - increase by three degrees to 186° C
Slowly and deeeeply inhale at 186° C

Three deep inhales should be enough.

Hi everyone,

I just got a crafty+ and went on my first journey ever yesterday. It was fantastic.

I believe my smoking technique might be a bit jazzed though because I am nowhere near a breakthrough and not even sure if that is achievable with this device (?)

A few questions to those of you with more experience;

Currently I put spice on the liquid pad and start vaping at 165c. It works alright, but what I don't understand is that after one long big inhale (and holding it in), the machine is still warm and vaping. So I suppose during this time I am loosing a lot of mist/spice. I've seen mist leaking out of the machine during this time.

With a lighter for example you can stop the flame during your hold. So how does one "stop the vape" during a hold? Do you guys have it set that it only heats for a few seconds before turning off, so you can turn it on again for the next inhale?

I've also seen posts about pre-melting, why is that a good thing?

Thank you very kindly for any replies.