I have done about a dozen MHRB extraction over the past few months using a STB tek with Xylene. Plus backsalting and mini-a/b.

I had some assistance from a few members here working out the details but now that I’ve got firmer grasp on things I’d like to open up to criticism and review and hopefully get some tips...

I plan to add pictures of different steps in the next day or two whenever I can get them uploaded as well as add more information, I’m just in a good mindset to type it all out right now.

Here goes:

1. Add 500ml distilled water to a 2L bottle.
2. Stir in 100g NaOH
3. Stir in 100g MHRB
4. Close and shake to shit
5. Let sit 24 hours during which, it will be placed into a 70C degree heat bath for 8 hours minimum and shaken many times throughout that time

6. Add 1000ml more distilled water
7. Add 100ml Xylene
8. Close and mix. I actually mix pretty hard.
9. Let sit in 70C heat bath for an hour, mixing/shaking at least 3 times during

10. Pull the Xylene layer.
(Depending on the time, I’ll either go ahead and backsalt/mini-a/b this pull and use the Xylene from it to next pull, or just add more Xylene)
11. But anyways, I do 3 pulls total.

Each pull is process separately right now so that I can get more accurate measurements of what I’m doing.

Backsalting:
12. Heat the Xylene pull being processed to 70C
13. Add distilled water in the amount of 1/4 the amount of Xylene that was pulled.
14. Maintain heat at 70C+ as much as possible.
15. Add 2.5ml 3.2% HCl solution. (This amount was determined ahead of time and I’ll add a link to that later.
16. Stir vigorously and keep heated over 70C
17. Test pH of water layer. If above 5, repeat step 15&16
(A pH below 5 indicates that all of the DMT has moved into the water layer. It’s also now in salt form.)
18. Once pH is 5 or just below, pull water layer into a separate vessel. Xylene can be saved for future pulls.

Mini-A/B:

19. Heat the aqueous layer to 70C+
20. Add a small amount of NaOH solution until pH is over 13 (Causes freebase DMT to crash out of the aqueous layer)
21. Add HOT heptane that has been heated over 70C
22. Stir vigorously and keep heated.
23. Eventually the heptane will turn dark orange.
24. Use separatory funnel and pour the heptane/water mix into it.
25. Put funnel in heat bath to assure that crystals don’t stick to the inside of the funnel (can also run under hot tap, or pour hot heptane through it first, or heat it up before putting anything in it.)
26. Allow water to go into separate vessel.
27. Pour heptane into a vessel that will be filled about 80% with the heptane in it.

Crystallization

28. At this point the hot plate and pots of water I’ve been using to keep stuff heated is cooling down so I let the DMT filled heptanesit in there as it cools in order to allow the darker alkaloids to precipitate first.
29. Once the heptane has lightened some, all the red impurities are sucked out or the heptane is poured off into another container.
30. This is repeated at room temperature until it seems all the orange crystals have settled in the bottom
NOTE: I’ve also kept the heptane container open and been allowing it to evap a bit while doing this part.

31. The remaining heptane is covered and put in the freezer overnight
32. Next morning the heptane in poured off and crystals are weighed and collected.

I’m going to post more details on my crystallization And yeilds as I take more notes about my current batch so I can give the most up to date specifics. Crystallization is a part of it that I really feel I’m fucking up and could be doing much more effectively.

Currently I’m yielding around 2% total including the orange, yellow, and white portions.

I’ve been fiddling with different times, amounts shaken, and heats to see how the results are but unfortunately my note taking has been somewhat spotty in the past...

Anyways. Please anyone with knowledge of any aspect of this chime in with questions or suggestions on how I might so better

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I appreciate it. I’m a tad worried I won’t get much of a response due to where it’s posted, as I expect the answer you gave is a common one in this area.

2% is a very respectable yield. Your process seems to be quite effective.

You'll have to be a bit more specific about what your concerns are with crystallisation. What is it about the results that you find unsatisfactory?

Have you ever done a freeze precipitation using xylene? From what I understand, you cannot. It's totally different from naphtha. The op seems already to know this, as he discussed salting out.

Please know your stuff before you give people advice.

My apologies I haven’t... I’ll delete it. I was just trying to be helpful but Your right I’m not familiar with teks using xylene so I should have kept my mouth shut. I’m sorry and I promise it won’t happen again. 😢

No worries friend!

Hey Achilles thanks for your message, I also got your PM and I really appreciate it. I can’t reply to PMs yet so wanted to throw a Thank You out here for ya

I guess my main concern is that I’m not getting as much pure white product as I expected. Even when I get an amounts of orangish DMT nearing about 7-8grams, I’ll go to re-x it, and get a portion of red out and it will often lighten it up some but I’m never able to get all the yellow to precipitate out before it seems ALL the crystal has formed, if that makes sense.

The last few extractions I did, I allowed the hot Heptane to sit in the heat bath I was using after the burner was turned off so that it has an EXTREMELY slow cool down so I can monitor as much as possible.

I’m also running a fan over it the more it cools to evap as much as possible so that it’s concentrating further while crystallizing.

Once it seems the Heptane has precipitated all the orange and the heptane is a lighter yellow I’ll put it in the fridge for some hours then eventually the freezer.

From my understanding the color of the Heptan determines the color of the crystal so I’m expecting the yellow to form then I can move it to the freezer and allow whiter ones to form but they just aren’t as white as I’d like.

I know I can probably do FASA to clean it up a bit, but I feel like there’s more I could do when re-xing and such first.

I will say thought, that the yellow and reddish crystals I am getting are not oily AT ALL and are extremely hard and crystalline and pretty. Hopefully I’ll get some pics up tomorrow once my new card reader comes in.

Sorry for the text wall.

Why so much water just for 100g of mimosa? Also, is it powdered shredded(in this case it may have some sense to use a bit more comparing to powder)?
For mini AB why hot solution? If you want cleaner/whiter spice its better to pull from cold/room temp solution.
I don`t have experience with xylene, only hexane and heptane. But if have heptane why not to use it for initial extraction? Or your goal is full spectrum spice?
But overall I think you over killing it. I`d optimize and simplify many steps. But that just me. I have lots of experience with extraction and been using cyb`s salt tek approach with improvements here and there. And if I get same result with much easier approach and in less amount of time, why to complicate it, right?

I’m specifically after full spectrum and higher yields. It’s a lot of steps but it doesn’t take all that long. I’m typically running multiple batches at once and staggering their steps so it works out fine.

Also I am only doing 3 pulls total per batch, 90% of which comes from just the first two pulls.

Cybs salt tek uses about 700ml water for 50g bark. I’m using 1500ml for 100g. How is that much different?

Also heptane is more expensive than xylene which is cheaper and easier to use over and over IMO. Hot heptane is needed to pull the dmt out of the basified water in this case I believe. I may try it a bit colder but everything I researched specifically talked about pulling with hot heptane. Dmt crystalizes in heptane at room temperature so I’m not sure how pulling cold would even work?

Basifying the water layer causes the freebase dmt to crash out of the water. Hot heptane is needed to pick it all up. The hotter the better or it might not pick it up, then cooling slowly until heptane is the color you want then pouring into another vessel and leave the darker bits in the original vessel.

But either way, if I’m getting all the dmt, I should be able to precipitate the yellow out first through different stages of cooling I feel like I’m just having trouble

I have used Naptha and Heptane in the past and typically yielded about 1.6-1.8%. Variations of Cyb’s and Noman’s tek and such.

Xylene really pumped me up to 2% I’m just wanting to get artisanal with my crystal lol.

Edit: added a little more about why I’m using hot heptane and why I prefer this method.

Ah, yes. For some reason I read 2 liters of water. But this is just a volume of your vessel. Then its fine for 100g.


Well, it works. I have done it many times.


If I`m not mistaking, xylene pulls some other stuff too. So you get more like full spectrum or jungle spice. Personally I don`t like it that much and prefer white or offwhite/eggshell.

If it works it works
I’m interested to see if I do a cold pull and then a hot pull how the two would differ. I’ll probably try that on my next batch.
In fact now that I think about it...
My guess is that since I’m doing full spectrum, that all the jungle spice would stay at the bottom with the water, and the spice that is soluble in heptane at that temperature will go into the Heptane and then would pull nicely and go right to the freezer.,
Then I could do another hot pull and grab the rest and all the jungle. Thanks for the idea!



Jungle Spice is still about 90-95% pure in terms of DMT. I enjoy both and extracting full spectrum allows me to purify as much as I want later. Especially If I’m making Changa, then the more the merrier!

Leave out the fan. The crystallisation is based on the thermal solubility gradient. Use of a fan causes evaporative cooling, and currents in the solution - both of which can disturb crystal formation. You yourself said that you want the re-x to cool as slowly as possible - why speed up the cooling with a fan?
And in other threads it has been reported that excessive fan use leads to coloration of the product.

If you have used the bare minimum of hot heptane to dissolve the crude DMT, there should be no need to evaporate any of it.


- another reason not to evaporate your heptane!


That's... quite a lot of DMT

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Thanks for the tip on the fan. I was under the impression that the fanning discoloring things was mainly during the drying process and thought it wouldn’t hurt to use it to evap a bit faster. What you said makes a lot of sense though.


I don’t really find it to be that much. That’s like 400g of bark worth of DMT, basically four extractions. I’ve been fiddling with this for several weeks now. I have a limited bark supply so I want the best bang for my buck and the prettiest product possible.
I mainly mentioned the amount to try and impart that I’ve been trying to do a re-x with larger amounts thinking that I needed a larger amount to really easily separate the different colors and maintain watch over it easier. *shrug*

I love jungle spice, but I want all the flavors!

Edit: I kept fucking up the quotes and my grammar. Lol

Ive seen posts about 2kg with people answering and helping out to aid these super large extractions which are clearly commercial, with OP's saying: nah, its just 'cause I don't want to extract many times and want to get it over with, etc.

What is considered large and what isn't is relative. It would be good if Nexus adds an objective amount of max bark on the attitude page. I would suggest a limit of an amount between 200 and 400g bark. Personally I'd go for 200, but that's just me and might be considered too conservative by some.

Until an objective limit is posted, the subjective debate of "what is large" remains.

Edit: I always fuck up my grammar and sentence structure in every post. Sorry for all the edit notifications mods