Hey everyone,
While I'm a new member here I've enjoyed the content within dmt-nexus for a long time.
Recently I've decided to produce DMT extracting it from Mimosa Hostilis. The entire extraction process went very well but this happened:
I extracted using lighter fluid containing only naptha (supposedly), which I then stirred through the mimosa and dried the fluid out with a fan once it became a layer on top. What remained was a nice liquid layer of yellow goo that I thought would dry out over time.
But it didn't dry, and now it's yellow goo. I can't seem to extract more liquid from it, it's simply oil. Does anyone know what went wrong?
Thank you!
|
|
|
.......you did separate the naphtha from the base soup & evaporate in a separate container right? Your description sounds like you let the naphtha evap while sitting on top of the water layer.
|
|
|
Yes I did put it in a separate container  Sorry if I wasn't clear.
|
|
|
All is not lost Your goo may be that way because of a fast fan evap. I could never get crystals that way. It oxidizes the dmt (dmt-n oxide is a goo) It could also be old bark. If you have only done one pull, you can do 3 more. Mix them in one tray, evap over a couple days slowly, no fan, & when its down to ~75ml, freeze precip. If you already did 4 pulls, just try no fan next time. Its worth the wait. Keep in mind, that yellow goo may be very potent. Also, make sure the goo has adequate time to dry & does not smell like naphtha. Before smoking find the msds for your naphtha & lye, make sure its what it says it is.
|
|
|
Thank you so much for your answer, this really helps me a lot and I feel very privileged to be able to take the next steps. I certainly hope it's not old bark.
It does sound like a fast evap, I can't wait for my new bark to get in and do more testing (only have 100g to start with). Can you tell me how a second/third/fourth pull works? Do I simply add naphtha again and stir to pull more DMT out of the root?
In addition, I'm now going to use petrol ether as the solvent for the next batches. It seems to evaporate much quicker and I was paying a fortune for the naphtha (regular lighter fluid bottles, couldn't find anything else at the time).
Thanks again Tryptamine.
|
|
|
Later pulls are the same as the first pull. Add naphtha, mix it up for a couple minutes, wait for separation, mix it again & wait 3x, then pull the naphtha out. Then repeat all that 2x more. Just make sure to mix well & not shake violently. Emulsions suck. Hopefully you get nice yeilds from your bark & i'd go back & edit that last post. Try to refrain from mentioning anything about bulk bark or ordering. & pet ether should be fine, but don't quote me on that. Search for others using pet ether for extraction. & just make absolutely sure the solvent you use is pure & has no rust inhibitors or additives, msds are readily available on the internet.
|
|
|
So we finally used an extraction method with all the equipment that we possibly needed to make this a success. We got the exact same result as the one in the video we used, but we didn't scrape the white balls off like the guy did. We figured we'd let it dry with the solvent upside down and then this happened: Right out of freezerAfter drying it for some secondsSo first joy, then sadness... I have no idea how this happened, can someone shine light on this?
|
|
|
lawrns wrote: So first joy, then sadness... I have no idea how this happened, can someone shine light on this?
I had exactly the same problem. I blame the condesation of water on the dish for this. What I do now is, that I scrape those Xtals up as soon as possible and let them dry on parchment paper. Works like charm. Everything is always okay in the end, if it's not, then it's not the end.
|
|
|
steppa wrote:lawrns wrote: So first joy, then sadness... I have no idea how this happened, can someone shine light on this?
I had exactly the same problem. I blame the condesation of water on the dish for this. What I do now is, that I scrape those Xtals up as soon as possible and let them dry on parchment paper. Works like charm. Ok I am now refreezing it, does that make sense at all or is this lost? I am certainly the contents are still there and didn't leak or anything so crossing my fingers here  Thanks for your response.
|
|
|
lawrns wrote:Ok I am now refreezing it, does that make sense at all or is this lost? I am certainly the contents are still there and didn't leak or anything so crossing my fingers here  Thanks for your response. I'm far from professional, but what I would do, is to dry it completely and see how it looks then. Depending on how it looks I`d decide how to proceed. If you refreeze it now you'll probably freeze water alongside the dmt. Maybe a more knowledgable member could say something more specific? Everything is always okay in the end, if it's not, then it's not the end.
|
|
|
Thanks anyway. I just got the paper and put all of the refreeze in there. It smells like nice potent DMT but it mostly looks transparent and wet. I'm waiting for it to dry. I really hope it can be scraped off when it is dry, but it's clear I wasn't able to get all of the refrozen juice out of there. I'm hoping for good vibes from hyperspace Quote: I'm far from professional, but what I would do, is to dry it completely and see how it looks then. Depending on how it looks I`d decide how to proceed.
If you refreeze it now you'll probably freeze water alongside the dmt.
Maybe a more knowledgable member could say something more specific?
|
|
|
Ok just put the second pull together with the remainder of the first in the glass recipient, then foiled it up after putting the lid on there. I expect there to be some water crystals which will hopefully dry out through the parchment paper method tomorrow.
Thanks everyone, and if anyone wants to give me more tips they're very welcome. I feel honored to go through this process and challenge my chemist self.
|
|
|
If anything you can try washing it with warm naptha to see if you can redissolve some of that redidue.
If you're evaping with a fan the fumes can be a little hard. One thing you can do is get a water aspirator and use a desicator lid to make a make-shift fume hood. You can even use a water pump and s bucket to recycle the water. I put a metal noodle strainer just barely into the water and fikl it with ice to get a better vacuum.
I measure out my total naptha volume so I can reduce it accurately.
|
|
|
Thank you for your answer. That just went really in depth for me, but I have seen the desicator you speak of. It's just $400 in my country or some absurd amount, so I've old school reproduced an airtight space in a bottle with chemicals that extract any moisture. Like the substance that you get when you buy new shoes, not sure what it's called again. So this is my plan; If new crystals form like the one you see in picture 1 that I upload I'm going to scrape them together asap and put them on a surface that I can put in the bottle. What do you guys think? I keep getting oil, not powder. It's getting a tad frustrating yet a fascinating puzzle  1ce wrote:If anything you can try washing it with warm naptha to see if you can redissolve some of that redidue.
If you're evaping with a fan the fumes can be a little hard. One thing you can do is get a water aspirator and use a desicator lid to make a make-shift fume hood. You can even use a water pump and s bucket to recycle the water. I put a metal noodle strainer just barely into the water and fikl it with ice to get a better vacuum.
I measure out my total naptha volume so I can reduce it accurately.
|
|
|
Do an evap test on your solvent to see if it's clean.
Once you see its clean, recrystallize your product. FAQ has instructions. Also check the FAQ regarding 'melting crystals'
Good luck.
|
|
|
endlessness wrote:Do an evap test on your solvent to see if it's clean.
Once you see its clean, recrystallize your product. FAQ has instructions. Also check the FAQ regarding 'melting crystals'
Good luck. Noononooo don't spend 400 on a dessicator! In 5 minutes I found a cheapo desicator for 11 bucks and an aspirator for 7. Just hook up the desicator lid to some quarter inch tubing to the aspirator. Hook the aspirator up to a sink or water line. If you want to recycle water I found a pump for 12 bucks and a bucket is only 2$. The dessicator lid just acts as a trap for solvent fumes and sucks them out of the way. I think what your problem is, is that you need to reduce your solvent. Try about half. Then cover your container with some foil or something and stick it in the freezer for about a day. This route will get you crystals. You do not want to evaporate your solvent dry.
|
|
|
Hey guys, kind of losing my courage here. This time I bought a magnetic hot plate stirrer and followed the video guide to the letter here: http://www.dailymotion.c...f_the-dmt-workshop_tech. The issue is however, and this is mentioned in this thread earlier, that shaking becomes an emulsion. I figured that, with the magnetic stirrer, I'd be able to separate the two again just like the man in the video. I thought wrong, the emulsion doesn't separate barring a very small layer of solvent that appears on top. Can I still use this emulsion for something? I now have it on the stirrer to try and evaporate the solvent and to then add more and shake normally (3x stir with spoon and 3x let it separate the layers then extract) I say I'm losing my courage because my previous two extracts were done well according to my understanding and no DMT came out at all. I know my solvent is 100% good and leaves no residue, and I'm afraid my big quantity of root bark although it smells perfect and has yielded some results before is just very low on DMT. Concrete questions: - Can the potent emulsion still be used for something after it is not separating the solvent - Could there be something wrong with my lye? It indicates 100% sodium hydroxide - Could I be adding too much sodium hydroxide?
|
|
|
Add more base, heat without the stirrer, & mix in 40g kosher sea salt. The increased polarity of the water combined with the heat should break the emulsion. When enough base is used initially (1:1 ratio bark to NaOh works for me) its very hard to get emulsions & they dont stay long when they do appear. I reccommend next time try cybs hybrid atb tek & follow the ratios of water, base, bark, solvent, heat & salt as closely as possible. It is very simple, yeilds high if your bark is good, & is geared towards simplicity for beginners. If the bark is high quality, cybs tek will reflect it. If not, keep at it. Next time you have the chance, try a new supplier. Even if you only get a couple hundred milligrams of dmt, you will learn & get a better idea of the extraction process as well as become more comfortable doing it & figure out what works for you. The dmt obtained can be used to test the waters & see whether or not dmt is something you enjoy 
|
|
|
That is such a great response, this forum is the absolute best! DMT is certainly something for me. Instead of dealing with unknowns when it comes to purchasing it I became fascinated by producing it myself and traveling to hyperspace on my own spice.
I will try this new tek, really excited about it. Thanks a million.
|
|
|
I'm starting to think petrol ether is my issue too since the freeze precips are not functioning. I think that would be good to know for the community. The reason I do know there's DMT is because I let a pot with ether sit openly overnight while doing the freeze precips. Two containers yielded nothing after extracting the petrol ether and then drying the dish, while the pot clearly had floating spice in it, and lots of it!
It's kind of weird because people around me have said that naphtha is exactly the same as petrol ether, just more expensive. Maybe it is, just not for our purpose maybe? I'm going to try the next extraction when I have the time.
The Petro Ether I extracted from both dishes was yellow and charged, so I left them to dry with a good filter on top of it to keep dust out. Will this work ok? Someone said don't dry your DMT slowly, so just want to confirm.
Thanks all!
|