Cybs Max Ion Step 1 Calls For A whole Lot of boiling, freezing, and thawing to weaken the cell walls of the bark.... Say SWIM wanted to take care of the timely step 1 and freeze thaw the bark today and continue the extraction in a few days. Would the cell walls still be weakened or does the extraction need to be done as soon as the freezing and thawing is done?????
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ThereBlesser wrote:Cybs Max Ion Step 1 Calls For A whole Lot of boiling, freezing, and thawing to weaken the cell walls of the bark.... Say SWIM wanted to take care of the timely step 1 and freeze thaw the bark today and continue the extraction in a few days. Would the cell walls still be weakened or does the extraction need to be done as soon as the freezing and thawing is done????? My understanding is step 1 doesn't call for boiling at all just a warm water bath for about 1hr then freeze thaw + 3 and it can be done over a couple of days but I keep mine frozen on the last thaw till I'm ready to do the extraction ! Also a break can be taken at anytime just not when pulling with you're solvent still in the soup !!
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ThereBlesser wrote:Cybs Max Ion Step 1 Calls For A whole Lot of boiling, freezing, and thawing to weaken the cell walls of the bark.... Say SWIM wanted to take care of the timely step 1 and freeze thaw the bark today and continue the extraction in a few days. Would the cell walls still be weakened or does the extraction need to be done as soon as the freezing and thawing is done????? Once the cells are lysed, they will stay lysed. If you plan on waiting a few days anyhow, you might as well freeze and thaw it a couple of times in order to be as thorough as possible.
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There is ABSOLUTELY NO BOILING involved in that tek whatsoever. ( apart from heating water for your baths) Just to make that perfectly clear. As for you question, you can take as much time as you need. The only section that you don't want to leave is mixing the solvent. ( if you leave solvent in the mix for a long time, you will pick up an excessive amount of oils and yellowing.) Please do not PM tek related questions Reserve the right to change your mind at any given moment.
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cyb wrote:
The only section that you don't want to leave is mixing the solvent. (if you leave solvent in the mix for a long time, you will pick up an excessive amount of oils and yellowing.)
Cyb, What have you found is the most effective amount of time to leave the solvent in the soup before pulling, with this tek? Same with your Hybrid Salt tek? Thanks
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Adjhart wrote:Cyb, What have you found is the most effective amount of time to leave the solvent in the soup before pulling, with this tek? Same with your Hybrid Salt tek? Thanks As stated in the tek...enough time to mix and let settle 4 times. Appx 30-45 mins. This gives enough time for transfer to take place and a reasonable time to saturate the solvent enough for freeze precip to be effective. Please do not PM tek related questions Reserve the right to change your mind at any given moment.
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cyb wrote: There is ABSOLUTELY NO BOILING involved in that tek whatsoever. (apart from heating water for your baths) Just to make that perfectly clear.
As for you question, you can take as much time as you need.
The only section that you don't want to leave is mixing the solvent. (if you leave solvent in the mix for a long time, you will pick up an excessive amount of oils and yellowing.)
Thanks Cybs, The First Salt Tek I Failed In My 1st Attempt. Hopefully This Time Will Go Better. Will Be Posting Pics If So 
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ThereBlesser wrote:cyb wrote: There is ABSOLUTELY NO BOILING involved in that tek whatsoever. (apart from heating water for your baths) Just to make that perfectly clear.
As for you question, you can take as much time as you need.
The only section that you don't want to leave is mixing the solvent. (if you leave solvent in the mix for a long time, you will pick up an excessive amount of oils and yellowing.)
Thanks Cybs, The First Salt Tek I Failed In My 1st Attempt. Hopefully This Time Will Go Better. Will Be Posting Pics If So  How did you or it fail , do you no what went astray ??
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Earthwalker wrote:ThereBlesser wrote:cyb wrote: There is ABSOLUTELY NO BOILING involved in that tek whatsoever. (apart from heating water for your baths) Just to make that perfectly clear.
As for you question, you can take as much time as you need.
The only section that you don't want to leave is mixing the solvent. (if you leave solvent in the mix for a long time, you will pick up an excessive amount of oils and yellowing.)
Thanks Cybs, The First Salt Tek I Failed In My 1st Attempt. Hopefully This Time Will Go Better. Will Be Posting Pics If So  How did you or it fail , do you no what went astray ?? Actually a FEW Issues i Narrowed Down (Seeing i did my 1st extraction with a 50 yr old "Scientist" Who makes Not So Natural Occuring "Stuff" WAS THE FIRST MISTAKE.. But being serious I Used a liquid lye with Pottasium Hydroxide Which i know had an effect... ALSO i used mr brilliants word and mixed the naphtha ONCE and Pulled Instead of Mixing a few times before pulling. ( I Suggested the right way but followed someone elses suggestion to just Pull ) Ended up with Literally 10 MG from 50 G Bark Seeing im beggining my next attempt ( ALONE THIS TIME ) im hoping these were my only mistakes seeing there pretty BIG MISTAKES.
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Well Thereblesser ! you picked the right extraction TEK for the 1st attempts , it's very simple just remember warm water baths 40-45c not any hotter + don't get any base soup in with the naphtha , even filter it in cottonwool just to be sure ! Anyway good luck
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Entheogenerator wrote:ThereBlesser wrote:Cybs Max Ion Step 1 Calls For A whole Lot of boiling, freezing, and thawing to weaken the cell walls of the bark.... Say SWIM wanted to take care of the timely step 1 and freeze thaw the bark today and continue the extraction in a few days. Would the cell walls still be weakened or does the extraction need to be done as soon as the freezing and thawing is done????? Once the cells are lysed, they will stay lysed. If you plan on waiting a few days anyhow, you might as well freeze and thaw it a couple of times in order to be as thorough as possible. From what Ive read recently about tannins and one of its purposes the cells will stay lysed only in an aqueous solution if they are lysed dry when it returns to room temp the tannins will leak into the cells sealing them up. However this may only happen if its on a live plant but to be sure an idea would be to lyse in solution be that just water or acidified water depending on the tek. DreaMTripper attached the following image(s):  IMG_20140507_190637.jpg (156kb) downloaded 273 time(s).
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Earthwalker wrote:Well Thereblesser ! you picked the right extraction TEK for the 1st attempts , it's very simple just remember warm water baths 40-45c not any hotter + don't get any base soup in with the naphtha , even filter it in cottonwool just to be sure ! Anyway good luck Hey. Well i finished my 2nd attempt today. Needless to say i went from 10 MG to Almost a Gram. Yet this time it was dirty! So ill be doing a re-x Soon! I Have a few questions for my 3rd attempt. One part i wasnt sure about was mixing. Not the naptha just each step. Am i supposed to shake all the ingrediants each time i fill the Jar? Say when i Put The Vinegar ( Do I Shake So It Goes Together Well? ) Basically do i shake the bottle Each ingrediant added? THIS TIME I DIDNT SHAKE ANYTHING TOGETHER. Also about The Re-X, Ive heard about a cotton ball trick. Whats This? P.S Any tips for the re-x so i dont lose too much product? Using the shot glass Way from Cybs 1st Tek. Thanks To Anyone That Can Help Ive Almost Got It 
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ThereBlesser wrote:Earthwalker wrote:Well Thereblesser ! you picked the right extraction TEK for the 1st attempts , it's very simple just remember warm water baths 40-45c not any hotter + don't get any base soup in with the naphtha , even filter it in cottonwool just to be sure ! Anyway good luck Hey. Well i finished my 2nd attempt today. Needless to say i went from 10 MG to Almost a Gram. Yet this time it was dirty! So ill be doing a re-x Soon! I Have a few questions for my 3rd attempt. One part i wasnt sure about was mixing. Not the naptha just each step. Am i supposed to shake all the ingrediants each time i fill the Jar? Say when i Put The Vinegar ( Do I Shake So It Goes Together Well? ) Basically do i shake the bottle Each ingrediant added? THIS TIME I DIDNT SHAKE ANYTHING TOGETHER. Also about The Re-X, Ive heard about a cotton ball trick. Whats This? P.S Any tips for the re-x so i dont lose too much product? Using the shot glass Way from Cybs 1st Tek. Thanks To Anyone That Can Help Ive Almost Got It  As long as the materials are mixed together completely and evenly, you don't necessarily need to shake it during every step. The really thorough mixing process is only required for the nonpolar solvent pulls. Re-x using a cotton ball - I have not tried this method myself, as recrystallizing is easy enough as is. But feel free to experiment with it, and be sure to let us know how it goes.
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Need help AGAIN ;/
1st attempt didnt yield anything but figured out why ( the 10 mg i yielded worked )
2nd attempt i got almost a gram of white powder, yet this time 4 people attempted to smoke it and wouldnt even get smoke ( No cloud on exhale )
BEFORE smoking i noticed it had a kinda burnt smokey smell but didnt think it would matter..
During the salt solution addition, it calls for 300 ml water (Mixing in salt) then topping it off with enough to make it a LITER.
During this step i added a total solution of about 500 ML instead of a Liter.. Could this be the problem that coulda burnt it when addidn the Lye?
Also during the pulls there was ONE pull i got a little base soup and just figured i could re-x it. It sat for a few weeks without a re-x could this have cause it?
Has anyone else ever came up with a smokey kinda burnt smelling product? ( DID HAVE A FEINT SMELL OF DMT)
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Few questions for which i couldnt find the answers yet.
I have 3 options of acid.
1.I have vinegar, but in my country i can only find 4%, and it is not pure, the bottle says it has conservatives (sulphites). So if I was to use this vinegar, would it still be ok, despite the impurities, if i can get the ph right?
2. I have glacial acetic acid. Which i think would better than using impure vinegar, right?
3. I have citric acid. In this case, how much would i have to add to deionized water to achieve ph 2-4?
- would, for any reason, any of those be a better option than the others?
- would labb grade petroleum ether be suitable for this tek. Is heptane or hexane be any better?
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