I'm wondering if anyone has ever had a glass-blower do a custom DMT pipe for them? If so, what was the design?

Personally, I'm so turned off that everyone recommends the vaporgenie or tabletop vaporizers or ghetto DIY contraptions from hardware store products (no offense). I want something that requires no screens or mixing with other plant materials, ashes, etc. It seems there are drawbacks to all of these. How about something exclusively for DMT, so that there are no drawbacks?

What I was envisioning was a handheld glass pipe with some sort of bowl-like closed chamber where the DMT is placed and the glass bowl heated externally with a lighter to evaporate the DMT. You could load the chamber/bowl area through a small hole in the top, and then place a glass marble on top of the hole in order to seal it off.
-Of course there would be another choke/air hole at the opposite end of the mouth hole for circulation.

I hope that is clear enough for you all to understand. Would this work? If not, please explain how you would improve the design.

I'm a glass blower, and one of the first things I did after my first extraction was make a custom DMT piece. But heating it like a meth pipe like you're describing is no bueno, it is an inefficient heating method and burns/wastes DMT. Mine uses a "machine" style bowl with steel wool, but is easy to load (wool doesn't need to be removed, spice goes in through the other end.)

It's been suggested by other members I should make some bubblers that fit a ceramic disk like the GVG, but I haven't messed with it yet.

Great picture.

I want to try replicating that. Where do you place the D in that pipe?

A question regarding the "bubbler" idea: Wouldn't running the vaporized DMT through the water, cause the DMT to recrystallize and get trapped in the water/pipe?

Couldn't you just make the glass extra thick in the chamber area for my design in order to prevent burning?

Underneath the steel wool is a regular pipe screen. You remove the bowl and hold it upside down, and put the D into what would normally be the bottom of the glass on glass fitting, where it lands on the screen. Then the bowl is fitted back into the body of the piece. Obviously, the whole pipe needs to remain upside down while you're using it, which is no biggie. So the bowl is on the bottom of the pipe, and the lighter is held below the bowl to heat the steel wool without burning the DMT. Very similar to "The machine" but less ghetto. Also similar to the vapor genie, but uses steel wool as a heat shield instead of the ceramic disk.



No, lots of people use bongs for this (which is actually my preferred method now too, because of the bigger chamber. Haven't used this pipe in quite awhile). DMT passes right through the water the same way THC does.



With thicker glass it's going to be hard to get it hot enough to vaporize efficiently, it will take forever to fill the chamber and you'll still end up with unvaped spice. Heating from the outside (conduction) has been shown through many more people's experience than just my own to be much less effective than convection. My advice would be leave the meth pipes and lightbulbs to the tweekers.

What about oil rigs?

I haven't seen anything about those at all....

There's a thread about that actually... HERE

Main problem there is the temp that titanium gets to when heated, although perfect for vaping THC, is WAY too high for vaping spice. It will just burn. Plus there would be problems coordinating getting the spice onto the skillet or nail while it's still hot without spilling any, especially if you've already had a hit or two.

Thanks crazy horse.

I should have known there would be a thread bout oil rigs somewhere!

Excuse my drawing skills, but it sounds like something like this is better:

I really like rudder's design. I'd ensure the bong wasn't too high/tall. I'd probably use a stack of screens or a screen or two and some sort of steel wool. Not sure. But the proper choice would stop most of the DMT from dripping into the u-joint, just like with a GVG. Any DMT caught in there could be recovered with NPS during cleaning, just like with GVG.

The purpose of the u-joint (just below the steel wool) in my design is to harbor the DMT at an optimal distance from the lighter in order for it to vaporize completely without having to worry about the DMT dripping or migrating anywhere else.

I don't see any big problems with that design, you'd just have to make sure the distance from the top of the bowl to the bottom of the u joint was just right to get the proper amount of heat down to the spice. Ideally it should be right under the steel wool, without a big air space in between. The temp range for vaping this stuff seems to be pretty narrow, probably somewhere between 175-275.

But you could really do the same thing without needing anything custom to be made, except possibly the bowl, by using a regular glass on glass bong and a bowl like the one in my piece above, but just use it right side up and remove the steel wool to load it.

How far from the top of the bowl to the bottom of the u-joint? 0.5 inches? Seriously, what is the precise optimal distance? Grab a ruler.


Also, I guess I just don't understand how your pipe works. What is keeping the DMT from falling down into that lower, larger compartment?

The bowl is about 3/4" deep packed with steel wool, spice is right on the other side with a metal screen in between. It could probably be about another 1/4" deeper, you'd just need to get the flame that much closer.



It doesn't fall out because while it's in use, that larger compartment is ABOVE the spice. and the spice is resting on a screen, above the steel wool. Basically you're looking at it upside down in the pic, when it's loaded I hold it with the bowl facing the other way (down). Reread my description above of how it is used (post #4), hopefully it will make more sense.

Doing it this way lets me heat the spice from below with a regular bic, without needing to suck air through until the chamber is full and I'm ready to clear it. If it were the other way around with the lighter held above the bowl, I'd waste half my lung capacity just trying to pull the hot air from the flame downwards into the bowl to fill the chamber. So in a case like that (or the design in your drawing) a torch lighter would probably work better because it has a directional flame you could aim downwards.

Hope that makes it clearer!

OK I get it. However, I thought the spice would liquify and fall through your screens and steel wool if you held it upside down.

Where did you locate the air hole towards the bottom of your bowl? If it's directly below, I would assume you would lose some product (having it fall below) when loading the bowl.

Is your bowl removeable?

If the "wasting half a lung" is an issue, then why do you like to vape through a bong?

Anyway, the point of my thread is to figure out the best design. And that design should be compatible with a standard lighter and not require some sort of special torch lighter...so, back to the drawing board.

This design uses a normal lighter and can be used horizontally...I recommend

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=35040

That's cool.

Is it always necessary for DMT pipes to have all these parts though? I keep hearing people talking about 5 or 6 screens ceramic pebbles and disks, etc.

Also, why should it take anymore than one hit for someone to smoke a measly 60mg of something?

'Measly 60mg'??
20 mg should send you flying...60 would take a few pulls to vape and is really too much.

The parts (scrubber, discs etc.) are there to stop the flame touching the spice (and burning it) and to have a barrier from the flame...also the scrubber is to 'catch' the melted spice that runs away due to gravity.
Hot air is what vapes freebase spice...not flame.


edit:
Changa or enhanced leaf solves all the problems...

OK, so it sounds like my design would work after all. I actually thought torch lighters were extremely expensive, but I just checked out prices and saw that they are actually pretty cheap.

So, I think I'm going to go ahead and build the bong from my drawing. To confirm, the distance from the top of the bowl to the bottom of the ujoint should be .75" and I will place .75" of fine, tightly-packed steel or copper wool in the bowl, so that the bottom of the wool will most likely be touching the D. I probably won't mess around with any screens, unless you think it's important.

Since there's such a narrow temperature range for optimum vaporization, I will have to experiment with holding the lighter from the bowl at the proper distance. But some practice is to be expected for any new gear.

The wind and heat generated from the torch lighter will push the vapor towards the main stem of the bong, so that I won't have to "waste half my lung capacity" trying to get it started.



How tall and wide should the main stem of the bong be?

Are there any other parts I should put into the bong? It's probably not a good idea to put any screens in, because then I might not be able to get them out since the bowl is not removable. Or should I make the bowl removable? I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible, while still being effective. The more parts and stuff the more complicated. What's the point of the screen if there is already thick bundle of wool that's blocking any direct flame from hitting the spice?

Any last specs and/or features to consider?


http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_dose.shtml

The spice doesn't seem to liquify enough to run all the way through the screen and steel wool like you imagine, definitely never had any drip out. In fact I've never even seen any in the wool, maybe it all just vaporized but it pretty much all seems to get caught in the screen and the residue stays in the bowl's fitting. You can see it in the pic (light brown stuff on the glass right under the steel).

Yes the bowl is removable, as I said that's how you load it (turn upside down and sprinkle into the bottom of the glass on glass fitting, then reassemble). I'm very used to working with these fittings and know how to make them stick and stay until I want them to come apart, they easily hold tight enough that the bowl has never fallen out. But if one was worried about that they could use a keck clip as well.

With my large bong I can "milk it", puffing very very lightly on it to fill the chamber then emptying my lungs completely before taking the hit, so it works the same way as the hand pipe just with a MUCH larger volume of vapor being delivered all at once. Also, ever since I've been using the bong, I've been more into smoking changa rather than vaping straight spice, and it works differently. I've only used it to vape one time, changa smoking is more like smoking weed so the right-side up bowl isn't an issue and no steel wool is needed.



Steel, NOT copper. Copper vaporizes at a much much lower temp than steel and you DON'T want to be breathing that stuff. I know some other people report using it (due to not knowing any better), but I always worry for their safety.

The scrubber shown above actually came with a copper coating, it was all burned off in a torch flame prior to use. No matter what kind you get, burn the hell out of it first to remove any kind of coatings it may have and leave only pure steel.

BUMP



OK, so it sounds like my design would work after all. I actually thought torch lighters were extremely expensive, but I just checked out prices and saw that they are actually pretty cheap.

So, I think I'm going to go ahead and build the bong from my drawing. To confirm, the distance from the top of the bowl to the bottom of the ujoint should be .75" and I will place .75" of fine, tightly-packed steel or copper wool in the bowl, so that the bottom of the wool will most likely be touching the D. I probably won't mess around with any screens, unless you think it's important.

Since there's such a narrow temperature range for optimum vaporization, I will have to experiment with holding the lighter from the bowl at the proper distance. But some practice is to be expected for any new gear.

The wind and heat generated from the torch lighter will push the vapor towards the main stem of the bong, so that I won't have to "waste half my lung capacity" trying to get it started.



How tall and wide should the main stem of the bong be?

Are there any other parts I should put into the bong? It's probably not a good idea to put any screens in, because then I might not be able to get them out since the bowl is not removable. Or should I make the bowl removable? I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible, while still being effective. The more parts and stuff the more complicated. What's the point of the screen if there is already thick bundle of wool that's blocking any direct flame from hitting the spice?

Any last specs and/or features to consider?


http://www.erowid.org/ch...cals/dmt/dmt_dose.shtml[/quote]