HI!! Someone tried an extraction using calcium hydroxide and got virtually nothing using a 1:1 ratio of CaOH and Mimosa. With lye got about 1%. The CaOH mixture was so much nicer to work with, but gave nothing. Is there some kind of trick to make CaOH work better?

Calcium hydroxide isnt very soluble in water, thats why it didnt work. You cant use it for a normal 'wet' tek, it has to be a dry tek like amorfati's non-toxic approach or q21's tek for it to be effective

These teks are using White Distilled Vinegar as acid, then Calcium Hydroxide in a ratio mimosa:CaOH 1:1 max or 2:1 minimum. When mixing your acidic mimosa with CaOH, just make sure to keep a solid texture from your mix. You may add a little distilled water, so it mixes well but just enough to give it a puree-like consistance.

Hmmmm, I see. I will try using more vinegar next time for the first step. I just added a pinch this time, and got a pinch of spice in return. But if done correctly, the CaOH can work just as good as lye?

Yes. Lime is a pretty powerful base. Just because its not caustic, does not mean it is not powerful.

And a note. When you are adding vinegar, you are breaking down the cells, and turning spice into dmt-acetate. You need to have quite a bit of vinegar in there in order for it to get ALL the spice. otherwise you just have a small amount.

-gir

hmmmm, I see. Would Lazyman's tek, or the other STB's work better if you just add the boiling water + vinegar step as well? In the past, I've just chucked in some lye. THANKS VERY MUCH!

have you used lime for a normal 'wet tek' as fnog9 is asking? Because you are leading him to think that he can just substitute lye for lime and use it in the exact same way, and AFAIK thats not possible because even though lime is very basic (its a hydroxide after all), it is poorly soluble in water, and thats why people using it do dry teks like Amor Fati and q2121 (and same with 69ron's mescaline extraction) .

So once again, fnog9, if you wanna use lime, do a dry tek. Then it can be indeed just as efective (or even more in the case of mescaline for example because mescaline freebase is moderately water soluble, which means you would have to make many solvent pulls for getting it all out, while in a dry tek there wont be much water for it to be dissolved in so the non-polar pulls will be more effective)

When you refer to the "drytek", does that just mean that the mimosa/water/vinegar/ CaOH solution, when mixed, should have a thick texture and not be watery? I read Q21's tek.

1) mix MHRB with a 50/50 blend of water and white vinegar. 2ml-3ml for each gram of bark used should be good (IE: 200ml liquid for 100g MHRB) Stir for an hour.
2) add CaOH in a ratio of at least 1 part CaOH, 2 parts Mimosa. Stir it up good. Let sit for... 20 minutes I'm guessing.
3) add limonene or naphtha or xylene. Stir and let sit for mimimum of 20-30 minutes (for the first pull)
4) pull the solvent and separate, either using vinegar, or freeze if using naphtha.

Seem ok? Are there other dry tek's? I looked at the nexus' tek section and came across only one drytek, but it's for bufotenine. Thanks.

I gave you 3 examples of dry teks with links in my last post, 2 for dmt and one for mescaline, I cant understand how you cannot see that.

and yes, dry tek means thick texture.

Thanks, I just wondered what exactly drytek means or if there was more to that word specifically than just thick texture. Sorry, I'm still a noob. Thanks for all the info.

So if one were to pull goo from dry tek, could one then do a smaller scale wet a/b using ca(oh)2 in a solution suitable for its low solubility for fun? One looked around quite a bit and it seems most just write off lime as dry tek only but one would think it could be useful.. Somehow... Is my noob showing? Hehe

Namaste

If you want something as an alternative to sodium hydroxide that has high water solubility try a look at potassium hydroxide. Hydro shops do a food safe solution of it to raise ph in grow systems.

Thanks random. Wasn't really looking for an alternative, but now one might be haha. One had decent results with acrb q21q21 tek 2. Love the goo but thought the lime might be worth plAying with now that the goo and ca(oh)2 solubility are close in weight. Just wAnt to experiement and have fun while being safe.

Let's say one dissolved 20 mg of goo into 1000 ml of 5% vinegar, then added 1-1.5g of ca(oh)2. Is that simply not enough to basify? Or could one get a more pure final? Yeah yeah a lot of work for the looks but acrb seems to give most goo right? Just an idea floating in the air.

Ps the goo is amazing, don't want this curiosity to discourage anyone from enjoying the goo

Potassium hydroxide has an even better solubility in water (according to Wikipedia), but Ca(OH)2 clearly sucks (for a wet tek).

Potassium hydroxide:
121 g/100 mL (25 °C)

Sodium hydroxide:
111 g/100 mL (at 20 °C)

Calcium hydroxide:
0.173 g/100 mL (20 °C)

Yeah already knew that and know this is not an ideal situation.. Just curious as to how one can use it in dry and get results but not wet. Would like to find a way to get around the solubility issue.. Might be stupid but trying to think outside the box. Some day one will play around and post results.

If you read the beginning of this thread, you'll see why you can't use the calcium hydroxide with a wet tek. I'm honestly not sure what the big deal is. I personally way prefer a dry tek to having to deal with that caustic soup. Especially when it comes to separating the solvent, with a dry tek, it's way easier to tip the bowl over, pour out the naptha (or other solvent), and voila: it's separated as opposed to going through the tedious process of trying to separate it from a bunch of other liquids. If you wanna get around the solubility issue, use a different base. If you're set on using calcium hydroxide, use the dry tek: simple.

Not a big deal at all global, just floating ideas. Thanks for putting it so bluntly.

I think and someone correct me if I am wrong that with a minimal amount of water the calcium hydroxide has a good contact area with the bark and can work its magic. With more water I'd assume that you just end up with wet calcium hydroxide and wet bark and do not have that large contact area to facilitate the freebasing as the water effectively is in the way.

Hydroxide ions are what do the work in an extraction. With sodium hydroxide those ions will move into the water and can do there work from there. The hydroxide ions in calcium hydroxide will not do this as easily and as such the exchange must happen directly between the molecules of the base and the bark. A little water will in effect bring these closer together and help facilitate the exchange. To much water and as stated you prevent this exchange of ions from the hydroxide to the bark and the extraction goes Pete Tong.

Sorry if I'm being unclear but I suppose I'm talking about a re-x with goo going through a full wet a/b. at this point there would be no more bark And only slight impurities. So 15 mg of surface area of goo for every 100ml of the limewater. I mean at this point just a re-x would be fine but I'm wondering if you can do an a/b extract from an extract. Lol sounds crazy I know