Thank you for your work. I appreciate it as I have now done the first salt tek and now this as my second extraction. I will attach pull 1 and 2 combined and then post a question

So for the third pull which was the Naphtha from first pull I had a great amount of crystal and tried to keep the container upside down (no fan to put on it this time) and I came back to find goo, crystals melted. I figured it would be fine yet now struggle with it.

Forth pull I got impatient and used a blow dryer (still no fan) and melted them again, this time they are back in the freezer but I am afraid they will freeze not crystallize.

Should I just try to the purification steps? and re-crystallize?

I now have all the Naphtha sitting in the JAR with the base mix, I will separate and do a final pull (5 officially) in the morning... Unless?

Advice is appreciated.

Lesson: NO SHORT CUTS, get ALL proper tools, crystals in freezer is NOT a finished job.

Thanks in advance

I've observed that the bottom of my freezer compartment is a few degrees C colder than just a couple of inches above. It may be that when you turn the container upside down, the crystals melt because they're not as cold anymore?

For that reason, I don't turn the dish upside down. I just take out the dish, pour off the solvent as quickly as possible and dry the dish with a cold fan. Done this way the crystals don't seem to melt. I do lose a bit of solvent with every drying though, perhaps 10%, which I subsequently top up.

can heptane be used in lieu of naptha? Naptha isn't available inexpensively where I live :/

Yes ... (and it maybe preferable)

Nice. Thanks Cyb, you're the best

Reattaching the download for new members.

Hey y'all, I'm soon going to get my MAX I-ON , and there are just a couple small points I was hoping someone could clarify:

1. I don't see anywhere in the tek that we're to filter out the plant material after acidifying. Is it assumed that we'll filter, or are we leaving it all in for the basification?

2. When doing our pulls, we're instructed to mix or "shake". How much shake are we talking here? Aren't we worried about forming an emulsion, and, if we've left the bark in solution, getting bark sludge in the solvent?

With my previous extractions I've strained the material before converting, so if anyone could shed some light on these simple questions, I'd very much appreciate it. Thanks, and good wishes to all the travelers out there! <3

1. You don't filter the material...it stays in the mixture.
2. Don't shake...Roll the bottle like peddling a bike. Not harsh...just mix the ingredients together fully.
You want to get the solvent to 'Touch' every part of the material in the mixture...so visualize that as you roll and rock.

It is not a true A/B...it is a hybrid of A/B and STB.

Hey, cyb, thanks much for the guidance. The gentle roll is what I've done before; it'll be like one of those little "perpetual wave" desktop trinkets from the 80s.

I can't wait to give this a try! I've been away from the spirit since before you made MAX ION, and I'm really eager to see what kind of yield is possible with this approach. Thanks very much for all your generous and excellent work; I'll do my best to share the good energy.

I dont know if my question was already answered somewhere deep hidden in the thread, so I am just asking this way:


It is told to NOT cook your soup for 45 mins while stirring all the time, but doing 8 h and not stirring anything.

I can imagine that the less you stirr the longer you need to cook. But this is no downside, I actually like the idea of just letting everything sit there without the hassle to install a stirrer.

Is this really the point? And did I get it correctly: You only need 1 single cook at 8 h to get everything out? Would be good to know if one is safe then.

I just think this is strange: While doing that long cook the plant matter shall only be covered slightly with water, so the plant matter is as concentrated as possible (but the solution should still be stirrable). I thought normally I would use the most water in contrast, so that the strength of pulling out of the bark is even more? Using less than average water would result in a lower pulling strength? ;o

THXX =)

i tried several links to download cybs' max ion tek pdf all three were infected with a nasty virus , is there a link for a clean down load thanks

tried several links to download cybs' max ion tek pdf all three were infected with a nasty virus , is there a link for a clean down load thanks

From where?!?
Here?!?

Hi

Where do I download the file? I keep the clicking the link that's supposed to divert me to it, but it's not there.

Gracias

Brainforest

DL'ed the PDF and will be trying my first A/B soon, moving from STB.
thank you for your work with this lovely tek.

for those of you having trouble with downloads (i am probably too late), there is a link in OP that cyb pasted that takes you to the post with the download attachment. it is all virus free and completely safe as far as i can see as long as you stick to the links posted by cyb.

Hey Out there,

one question to the acid soak step:

SWIM has 300g frozen rough material from mhrb and he believe it's better to do a acid cook instead of a an acid soak. Because it's not possible for SWIM to get the material much finer than it is at the moment.

Are there any reasons to don't do a acid cook and than go on with this tek?

Thank you for your help! It's been a long time since SWIM has done that :-)

RF

You can cook it if you want, or you can let it soak for longer with the lye, which also helps to break down the plant material without the energy expenditure.

Do you think they would need more water as well?

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