https://www.elementvape....-aegis-solo-100w-box-mod

They also got the vandy vape mesh v2 in stock.

im using a vaporesso GEN for this technique and am not a smoker. i've only used twice, but the vapor is a little irritating. i can feel it in my mouth/lips/throat roughly 30-45 min after vaping. wasnt sure if that is normal with this technique.

to vape im using
VV RDA 2
with VV S316L mesh

i have it set at 380F (193C)
SS with TCT 105
max 60W

it doesnt feel too hot. so wasnt sure if it was that, or the q21tek or just the nature of the spice.

the GEN temp only goes in increments of 10F, so next step down is 370 (187C) and 360F (182C), which is lower than whats on this sticky.

what do you guys think?

Hi cruisin!
The gear should be more than decent for the operation. You just need to optimize the settings.


For the mesh roll sheets, 30-35 watts is enough.

If you hold the button, how many watts do the gen display stabilise at, with present settings?

I advice you to do every step in pt. 3 in the first post, which should help you finding the correct settings. If any trouble or questions please ask.

Blessings

thank you Propello, i relooked at step 3 and realize i was using the fitted mesh wattage instead of the SS. i will experiment with 30w and see if it makes a difference. (the gen doesnt show wattage on the display in this mode)

also i realized after clearing it now, i may have left some spice on there as a decent cloud went up when pressing. perhaps i didnt get as much as i thought!

It might indicate that your temporary is a bit low. The mesh should be empty at 20mg after a 10 seconds inhalation.

Or just take 2 hits. Try another round with 20mg before you do increments, but be sure to empty the mesh. Finding the exact sweet spot amount of spice is for me a must. If I know the dose, there is at lest for me, less preflight anxiety and one issue less to worry about.

Safe travels buddy.

For you guys with the vandy vape mesh V2 rda, follow Lampeyelittle's design below. It seems that the VV mesh V2 is not so optimal for spice as the v1, with less space for the mesh.

Hello, I just wanted to say thanks for all the good work here.

I've tried this with VV2 and aegis legend mod and it works great (also have a glass attachment). The battery life is simply amazing and you get strong clean hits

As others have said, the loading can be tricky (I've only used the default SS strip mesh so far). The inside of my VV2 is a mess, but should be easy to clean up with IPA. I do have the SS sheet and one day I'll do the modified wider mesh design.

Cheers and thank you.

Appreciate your feedback Loveall
If you setup the rda with fitted mesh, it will be so much easier to load the spice. Really recommend that

Safe travels mate.

Thanks for the great post! I've just ordered an Aegis solo and a wotofo profile 1.5. I'm very excited to try this method out. I already have 150 micron screens to cut, so I'm just waiting for my order to be delivered.

I preweigh a few doses in gel caps and pour onto the mesh straight from the cap when i am ready. Pulse once and spread anything that doesn't melt it with the round endand pulse again lightly. Seems to keep the spillage down. The wider mesh will make you happy.

One note is to always remember when switch coils to select "new" and then lock the resistance. I was switching from my Sai TAF (i use for cannabis concentrate) back to my VV and forgot. The mesh glowed very hot when i was testing for the faint glow in a dark room to find the sweet spot. Took me a minute to realize what i was doing wrong because i had switched mods when the device was off so it stayed locked at 60ohms instead or 12. I don't use mods a lot except for cannabis so noobs will make this mistake and burn spice if you aren't careful.

Thanks for excellent info skooby!

Blessings

Hi, I hope someone can help- I am having problems getting this method to work. I know nothing about vapes so I'm starting from scratch.

I ended up buying an Aegis Geek mod w/ vandy mesh RDI. It's a marvellous looking device but I'm having some issues with the settings. When I use the temperature controlled TCR mode it asks for wattage and tcr value- when I set the wattage low the mesh doesn't glow at all. This encouraged me, as it was similar to the "dark room" test. However when I tried it the mod vaporised a small amount, but when I started breathing in the device cooled down so fast that it stopped producing vapour. There was still spice on the screen as when I fired it up again 3 seconds later you could see it burn off.

If I up the wattage it glows hot, which isn't like OP's vid.

I can't see how one could have a dark mesh appearance, yet still have the temp up around 200c? How does one breathe in at a consistent temperature without it cooling down too much? I'm definitley not breathing in too quickly, almost slow if anything, yet the temp just dies

I'm know I'm doing something wrong, I just don't know what. I've watched countless videos on RDI's, mods, TCR settings etc. but as I'm using a device differently to most others there is little making sense.

Please help. I don't want to waste any more spice :,(

Hi chronic!

You need probably need to increase the max wattage settings.

But first of all, post your settings in details. Which mesh type?

Blessings.

Thanks for the reply, Propello

I am currently using the SS cool that came with the rda kit. It's SS316L

It's incredibly small and won't work long term, I'm planning on buying sheet mesh, but I was hoping to use it for a small dose before then.

Here are the settings I used:

Settings

When I had the wattage higher than this the mesh glowed quite visibly.

Thanks for your help

Edit: I'm on my phone and can't attach a photo properly. I'm sorry!

You must get better mesh.

If ss316, you can use the ss mode, or set the tcr to 110.

Max wattage must be set to min 30, since when you inhale, the mesh will be cooled by the air, so the mod must be able to increase wattage to maintain the set temperature. At 15w the mesh will have to low temperature to produce vapor when you inhale.

If you find the sweet spot in a dark room (wattage should stabilise at 10-13w with such a small mesh.) you can trust the temperature control, the spice will not burn.

Thank you, that makes a lot of sense. I'll get some better and larger mesh, adjust the settings and try again.

How would one check the stability of the wattage? I read that before but wasn't sure how to do that...

Push the button and check at which wattage the aegis stabilise at on the display. Cap on, faint red glow in a dark room.

Thank you, I appreciate the assistance. It's taken me years to find a simple yet effective method of vaping spice. From what I've read, this is it.

I'll buy some mesh and adjust my settings. Thanks again

This is what I use for my vandy vape mesh V2 rda. It uses two mesh pieces that fit into each other: a passive custom cut flat circle and am active commercial stripe.

Not saying it is better than the "crosh" mesh, this is just what I like personally. I tried cutting the cross-shaped designs but found they heat unevenly with the current spreading out laterally at the center (cold) and concentrating near the contacts (hot). Upping the settings to force the center to glow could "pop" the narrower hotter connections in my case. I also found myself losing spice down the flat parts of the more "square" designs such as where the contacts are (that's just because I'm clumsy).

Steps:

1) Using a penny and an exacto knife trace a circle on the bulk mesh and cut it out (the exacto knife trace makes this very easy).

2) Place the circular mesh cut out on the rda. Push it to one side so it touches the wall and near the opposite side, use the exacto knife to break a straight line where it aligns with the electric connection opening. Repeat for the other side. Idea here is to make the openings in the circular mesh a little wider than the separation of the rda openings to get a wider heating stripe. One could also simply center the circle mesh and on the rda and open the connection areas straight up.

3) Thread a piece of commercial mesh stripe trough the openings of the circular mesh and connect it to the rda. Use default commercial settings.


Images are below. The end result is a nice circular mesh that keeps the spice from falling down into the depths of the rda. Any spice that lands on the circular mesh can be easily brushed on to the "active" region (I use small brush for this).

While the circular mesh is touching the stripe, it does not seem to have a good/solid electrical connection to the stripe and remains cold. The resulting heated region is an even stripe.

Note: last picture has exaggerated warp between the strip and circle mesh for visual purposes. The final configuration is flush so spice can be brushed from the circle to the stripe.