Hello!

SWIM is not very good at chemistry.

SWIM has already obtained yellow and white dmt crystals several times and has been able to dissolve them with IPA or 50% PG / 50% VG and convert them into changa and into e-liquid.

The new yellow sand looks, smells as usual and is potent when smoked.

Problem: Dissolving with IPA (I tried heating for up to 30 minutes) or even PG/VG no longer works properly, maybe 30-40% dissolves, the rest stays in its form on the ground.
I would like to have a liquid homogeneous mass.
where is the problem ?
And what are my options for action?

What happens if you try dissolving a sample of your material in vinegar? It should dissolve completely in IPA, and in vinegar too of course. Did you extract it yourself?

Your circumlocutions could be read to imply that it came to you in a less direct fashion... How big of a dose is "potent when smoked"? What kind of residue does it leave when a sample is carefully vaporized?

My suspicion is that you have an impure product.

If you didn't extract this material yourself I would strongly suggest you bin it and start your own extraction instead.

Hi,

I got a question and using the search function only helped to some extend.

So far I did my extraction (using naphta) during winter time. Once I took the glass dish out of the freezer I poured of the naphta, leaving the formed crystals exposed to air. I usually allowed the remaining solvent to evaporate, storing the glass dish upside down in a room at room temperature.

Now we got summer here and I didn't take into consideration that the air in that room was still above 25 degrees when I put the glass dish in there. The crystals started to dissolve again in the solvent residue, so I put it back into the fridge for now.

Now I wonder if I could just wait till I do the second pull (which will be tomorrow), add the solvent from that pull to the dish that contains the half melted crystals and allow the melted crystals to redisolve. I would then basically freeze everything together again till the crystals from pull 1 and pull 2 will have crashed out. Then I will let it dry in a room which is cooled down by an aircon.

In my mind that should work, but I want to make sure. Does that sound like a good idea or is there a better way?

Hi Fridge - your plan sounds like the ideal route to swift (enough) recovery of the melted crystals. I'm thinking, do you perhaps have an air conditioning unit with a nice cold airflow where you could put the crystals while the solvent residue evaporates? Otherwise they'll have to stay in the fridge after draining which is less than optimal.

Or perhaps you have a securely-fitting lid for your glass dish? A technique that I've seen mentioned fairly often is that, after pouring off the naphtha, close the lid and put the dish at an angle but upside down in the freezer. This allows a whole lot more of the residual naphtha to drain off before the crystals are allowed to come to room temperature and helps with minimizing the formation of additional ice crystals.

Hi DFS, thank you for your input .

I do have a room with an aircon and I do have a lid for the glass vessel (even made from bamboo, so no plastic involved).

I will try out going that route. Thanks again!

HDPE or PP lids would present very little of a problem, especially with the few drops of naphtha landing on them that would be allowed to evaporate or otherwise be disposed of. I wonder how your bamboo lid is fabricated - one can only presume some kind of adhesive would be used if, as commonly is the case, the bamboo is laminated. A lot of "bamboo" products are bamboo sawdust in formaldehyde resin matrix.

What does the lid look like?

Edit - problem solved! Dont know how to delete!

I ordered what I thought was going to be powder Acacia Confusa, instead I received wood chips and chunks. I had the smallest chips sitting in water for about two days, with the jar going through an hour hot water bath. The rest of the time, I was putting it in and out of the freezer and letting it thaw. Sometime while it was thawing and I wasn't watching it, the jar broke. Thankfully, I had the jar sitting in a large pyrex dish, so all of the liquid was saved. Anyways, I have about 400ml of a red tea. Is this sufficient enough to extract? It's technically only one steeping. Moreover, every single time I freeze and thaw this tea, there are precipitates falling out, it sorta looks like fiber. I've strained the tea twice now, with cotton balls.

If it's still in chunks, I'd probably try to blend it somehow go break it up more.

What tek are you using?

One love

The last time I tried that, I broke the blade for my blender. . I'll have to manually break it down and/or have it sit in lye. The same day I realized I had more work to take under, I [decided to work with] [MOD EDIT - NO SOURCING!] powder Jurema. I'm impatient for smoke, at the moment... it's been years. I started with Cyb's tek, but since it's chips and chunks I think some other work will be required. Probably boiling it in a gallon of water and reducing the H20 so I can extract from a 1/2 gallon glass jug.

[reposting, posted the same question to a wrong thread by mistake]

I have been researching DMT for a pretty long time and finally decided to make it a month ago.
Started ordering the materials online, problem was the plant material.

I found some bark [that was described] as Jurema Preta, but nowhere in the packaging it says Mimosa Hostilis/Tenuiflora.
Anyway I decided to give this one a try.

First Attempt : Standard A/B tek with HCl as acid and dichloromethane as solvent, everything went fine initially, the solvent separated clearly to the bottom (DCM heavier than water), tried freeze precipitation saw opaque white stuff precipitating, but after separation it all turned into clear liquid like water when kept in room temp for 5 mins. So I guess it was just ice. Then I evaporated all the solvent but the dish only has a very thin and faint white scale, the kind you get after evaporating off tap water. Unless observed closely it looked like a empty clear plate. Scraping off this substance on razor blade gave a tiny amount of some oily olive colored liquid accumulating on the blade. I blotted this substance on a rolling paper, crumbled up the paper into a ball, loaded into a crack pipe and smoked it , nothing. It smelled like after shave combined with the smell of new tennis shoes.

So I assumed the DCM was probably to blame for it and decided to use petroleum ether instead, petroleum ether is a part of whatever is contained in Naptha I guess.

Same tek this time, more vigorous shaking with the solvent yet the same result.

So now I am suspecting the plant material is fake/low yield. Is there any method to verify my plant material is good?

I will be editing your post and your duplicate post to help abide by the above rule and because this is the right spot for your query.

As for your query, was the bark powdered? How cleanly and quickly did your solvent evaporate when you tested it? When you added the solvent to the mix did you heat it first?

One love

Hi Void,

Thanks for the quick reply, didn't meant to violate that rule but it was kind of required to what I was asking.

I ground it up fine enough that it was getting in the air if disturbed too much so I had to wear a mask. Almost talcum powder like consistency.

Around 5ml of the solvent required 3-5 minutes to dry up completely.

And yes it dried up clean, like a washed plate right out of the dishwasher.

Yes I heated the mixture of solvent with freebase in a water bath and not the solvent separately.
How important is heating? Can it mean zero yield if the solvent is not well heated.

You're all good. I'm here to remind and guide in the right direction

If your bark has a low overall density of alkaloids, it is possible to get a yield of zero if the solvent isn't heated. I personally heat the soup and the solvent before performing my pulls. Try heating them separately. The solvent should be pretty hot. Be safe, keep the solvent away from active heating sources, and heat in a water bath with some kind of covering. I'd say try another pull or two.

One love

DCM would most likely have pulled the alkaloids without a problem, so this seems to be a bad sign regarding the potency of your material. DCM can be reactive towards DMT, though, and the quaternary ammonium derivative produced by this reaction would stay mostly in the aqueous phase. If you left the DCM/base soup mixture for too long, e.g. overnight, this might be the source of the low yield and you might see a better result trying with naphtha on a fresh extraction. If you performed your pulls promptly then, alas, you likely have bunk bark.

Removing Sodium Acetate (suspected) from DMT



https://imgur.com/a/uD6KkeP

I did a small A/B with vinegar, lye, naphtha, and 28g P. arundinacea, when I first evaporated the solvent, I was worried about fat/lye contamination after I did a small PH test that indicated strong basicity. I mixed the powder with vinegar, it reacted with lye to make h20 and sodium acetate, I now realize that I do not know how to separate sodium acetate from the DMT. Do I need to do a mini A/B on it?

Is this the right place to post?

DMT freebase will itself be strongly basic. You will have made at least some acetate salts of whatever alkaloids were present in the grass that were soluble in the naphtha. You'd best do a mini A/B on your material and if you're worried about lye again, do a sodium carbonate wash on the naphtha after pulling from the base phase.

Interesting crystals, btw.

Best of luck!

I have a noob question... to convert to fumarate salt, one simply mixes freebase alkaloids with acetone and then drop by drop introduce it to acetone saturated with fumaric acid?

Hey friend,

While I haven't done this myself, here is the FASA method from the wiki. What you described basically sounds like the process.

Best of luck

One love

Thank you!