Hello everyone, mushroom fanatic here getting into this realm...

Anyone needs gourmet or medical mushroom cultures I have many and can hook u up when I have proper privileges assuming this is allowed pls forgive me if I'm out of line w that statement already I will gladly withdrawal the statement..

Ok for my qs.., swim has some shredded acrb.

When using a pc for ur boil...To best preserve yeilds, would u want to pc for 3-5 min. Let cool, then pc for 3-5 min again and let cool? Or would a 30-40 min pc cycle be better for the boil?

Also, would it be best to freeze and thaw the bark before hand, to help lyse the cells? Or would that be overkill when using the pc? Has using a pc been found to lower yeilds in any cases???

What is the best way to locally source zinc? Zinc oxide wouldn't work I've read, is this correct?

When using acrb, do u need to de fat prior to basing? Or will using warmed naptha take care of that?


Just wanted to get some genuine posts up ty all for any input

EDIT: not looking for zinc sourcing, just a method of obtaining locally. In other words, what I may be used for locally ect?

I wasn't going to post these questions to begin..

But mainly wanted to get a few genuine posts going, figured this would be a fair way to do so. I know these questions have probably been asked many times...

I frequent the shroomery, here to learn about a new realm of life

Welcome to higher education!

Couple things, nobody knows how to swim here.

Searches are your friend and will lead to much more productive responses than this one. Lol. Once you've sourced the basic info you're looking for-which IS here, then perhaps asking more detailed questions regarding your actual process would be more helpful to you.

That said, happy you're here! This is a great place, full of wisdom.

Lol, kinda figured this may be a long shot..

I have done quite a bit of research already

I plan to do an a/b using NaOH and vinegar also zinc. I will be using acrb shredded not powdered

My question about the pc is.... well I've seen lots of people saying they use a pc. Some say not to seal the jar and that u need a stainless steel pc. I disagree...

I have pcd bark already as a test in a SEALED jar. I treated it like agar, brought temp up slow and let it cool slowly also. Then make sure to NOT let the PC form a vacuum.. if it forms a vacuum it may implode. But if u vent the weight it should be ok imo.. I did a test run like I said.. this way no worrying about a stainless steel pc and no worrying about losing any vinegar...

I suppose doing a freeze thaw, freeze thaw, then an acid boil in the PC wouldn't hurt at all. I'm just wondering if the freeze thaw is over kill when using a pc. Both steps lyse the cells. Freeze thaw doesn't seem as effective as a pc boil tho in my eyes?

Most people seem to do much longer than a 3-5 min pc boil. However I was told by a member on another site to pc for 3-5 min..?? This confuses me, I wonder if he just uses the pc to lyse the cells then moves on to the acid boil to remove the dmt from the bark... or if the 3-5 min pc run does both, lyse the cells and pulls the dmt. Leaving no need for an acid boil...

This is where my qs stem from...

I have also read that w acrb u need to de fat in the acid step before u base... but others say that warmed naptha takes care of that problem..

This is what I plan to do:

Acidification filtered water to ph 3 w strong acid (vinegar I'll be using)

Acid boil at ph 3 (in pc most likely for 5-30min) 2-3 times

Reduce volume to roughly 1/3 initial volume, let cool

Add zinc, 1g per gram of expected yeild

Let rest 2 hrs at room temp

Put in fridge for 12-24hrs

Filter bark out of solution

Add warmed naptha, mix 3-6 times, discard naptha

Repeat defatting 3-6 times

Add aqueous NaOH at ph 14+ until your solution is at ph 12+

Rest 1 hr

Re check the ph, adjust ph again if need be so ur ph is at 12. Or 13 if ud like

Add warmed naptha, mix immediately, no emulsions should form.

Mix and separate 3-6 times, use fresh solvent each time



This is "36fuckin5s" method not mine...

I highly recommend searching cybs hybrid atb tek. It is a clearly delineated pictorial and sounds a lot easier than the procedure you're looking at doing. This method should provide at least a 1% yield varying depending on quality of bark. Although the tek was created for mhrb, be assured that it is an excellent tek for acrb as well. Good luck, hope you find your way into hyperspace soon

Ok I checked that tek out, read it well

Two qs

1. Is the salt added for the same reason as the zinc? To get the dmt oxide?
Would Pink himalayian salt be ok lol? I read that ice cream salt and sea salt work best??

2. When initially adding the naptha, he says add naptha then put bottle in heat bath...

Would it be better to heat bath the naptha first, then add warmed naptha..? Or would this just create a whiter end product? Which is preference so not necessarily better just will make it whiter without doing a rex??

Or am I confused?

Either way, would u wanna warm the naptha before adding it??

And what is the reason the salt is used?? So I can understand what's happening?

Thank u for referring me to that tek btw

I suddenly find myself interested in using a heptane method so that I do not have to freeze precipitate can anyone point me towards a good tek?

Or a naptha tek that doesn't use a freeze precip.. but I don't want to evap the naptha either in large volume..

Can you simply replace heptane for Naptha in most teks?

Ty

I would use the Max Ion tek. No need to boil ACRB, just acid soak in warm water overnight (slow cooker on keep warm full of water with your glass wear soaking kind of thing). I would freeze thaw it 3 times first. Also I would defat once before basing.

The salt is to, and forgive my untechnical explanation, create an un-inviting environment in the water for your alkaloid so that the naptha is even more inviting.

I think the idea of warming the basic solution after adding the naphtha is to make it easier for the two to separate and not create emulsion. I think warming after is because ideally when you add the naphtha, you want it warmer than the basic solution in order to, you guessed it, make it more inviting then the water.


I might be wrong about all of this, best to verify anything I told you.

Welcome to the nexus.

Ok so heptane cannot simply replace naptha.

You need to use dcm or cloroform first, evap, then rex with heptane at room temp no freeze pre cip... or u can freeze precip w naptha and then re x with haptane...

I'm told the zinc step isn't needed and is kinda silly...???

Salt saturates the solution, so that the dmt will be kinda pushed out into the solution easier.. it's suppose to up yeilds.. this is what I'm told at least...

So would it be best to add warmed naptha, then warm entire solution... or best to add room temp naptha and then warm entire solution is my question???

Im gonna look into the tek u reccomended ty

What if u planned on pressure cooking (pc) ur bark for the lyse and the boil step?

Seems logical to me, keeps smells dowm, efficient lyseing of cells all in one..?

With q21q21s lime vinegar tek...

Will it work with powdered bark only? I have shredded bark?

Why don't more people use lime? What r the problems it poses compared to KOH and NaOH??

Ty

I will be posting results soon, with various methods I'll be doing some tinkering w recipes

I've been using q21q21s Lime tek.

Powdered bark, with a drier consistency seems to work best

I've been getting 50 percent on first three pulls on average

My best pull, was on a sm 100g batch. From three pulls I got 3 before defatting

I use a closed jar system and shake instead of stirring

I've been re xing in boiling heptane, doing a room temp precip and getting nice nice x tals

Any advice on how to powderize bark cheaply?

I mean literally powderize... zero chunks left one uniform grade of powder...

I was using a vitamix blender it worked awesome. Lost access to that machine tho sadly

The lime tek doesn't work very well with shredded bark. I'm sure it would work well if u added a boil step... then a reduce step... then carry on with the tek... u could choose to remove the bark from the liquid after the added boil step or not... Either way would work. However I would leave some bark so u can form a paste still, OR remove all bark and then reduce to needed amount of liquid to form a thick paste when u add your lime....

Anyways, I would soooooo appreciate any Input on how to powderize bark cheaply.

Currently I'm liking at getting a 3hp motor for customizing my own bark blender..

The vitamix blender I was using, has a 2.9 hp motor. 37,000 rpm. It tears bark apart and would even cook it slightly if u left the machine on too long. The dmt falls out basically when u have powdered bark... speeds things up a lot much much easier to deal with in my experience

I'm gonna be doing boils in the meantime

Looking at second hand recycling stores for a cheap used 3hp motor. Little motors aren't cheap it seems