In SWIM's last extraction, the naptha didn't separate properly from the basified solution forming what looked like a fatty layer, and gave some white fatty good in the freeze precip.
SWIM hypothesizes that one possible solution to this would be to wash the bark with naptha in order to remove any fats beforehand. However this would remove any DMT that was originally freebase in the bark, so SWIM wants to check if MHRB has any freebase DMT content?
SWIM also thinks to filter out the bark matter after basification, just to decrease general messiness, and wants to check there shouldn't be any problems with doing that?
Thanks in advance
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Why not do an a/b with defat.
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RocketScientist wrote:In SWIM's last extraction, the naptha didn't separate properly from the basified solution forming what looked like a fatty layer, and gave some white fatty good in the freeze precip.
SWIM hypothesizes that one possible solution to this would be to wash the bark with naptha in order to remove any fats beforehand. However this would remove any DMT that was originally freebase in the bark, so SWIM wants to check if MHRB has any freebase DMT content?
SWIM also thinks to filter out the bark matter after basification, just to decrease general messiness, and wants to check there shouldn't be any problems with doing that?
Thanks in advance MHRB does not have freebase dmt so SWIY may as well wash the bark with naphtha. Assuming that SWIY means that he's going to defat the dry MHRB powder, SWIM doubts if that will work in clearing the fats but on the other hand he has never tried this route. A/B is definitely the way (as dread noted) to defat the bark. (Just a note, from SWIY's post it seems that he has an emulsion problem, not a"fat" problem) Need to calculate between salts and freebases? Click here! Need to calculate freebase or salt percentage at a given pH? Click here!
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IMO naphtha defats of any plant material are close to a waste of time. If you're going to defat use a 'stronger' solvent. mistakes were made
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fourthripley wrote:IMO naphtha defats of any plant material are close to a waste of time. If you're going to defat use a 'stronger' solvent. What 'stronger' solvent would SWIY recommend?
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Xylene or something similar would be a good option. Even mineral spirits/white spirit would be a superior defat to naphtha. I've heard cautions against it but personally I find DCM works nicely and isn't too nasty to work with. No experience of 'dry' defats though... mistakes were made
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If you want to use naphtha for defat you need to get heavy naphtha. White spirit usually contains heavy aliphatic naphtha so it should be good. Light naphtha, the kind you use in freeze precipitation, won't pull enough oils.
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I have tried a dry defat with heavy naphtha with little success. If you really want to get rid of the fats n' oils, i would do as others suggested and use an A/B tek.
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Your naptha should be clear yellow, is it chalky when you freeze precip it??? You most likely need more lye and if you add more lye you will need more water. Like Infundibulum mentioned, it seems like an emulsion. The above is quoted from www.google.comTake responsibility for making your own life beautiful.
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mattimus wrote:Your naptha should be clear yellow, is it chalky when you freeze precip it???
You most likely need more lye and if you add more lye you will need more water. Like Infundibulum mentioned, it seems like an emulsion. The lye was yellow when pulled and chalky when frozen, the pH was ~14 and SWIM was following Lazy man's tek exactly.
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