This topic is about a friend SWIM who wants to execute his first extraction. SWIM found the Marsofold Tek as his choice extraction technique. He went with that tek...cleaned it up and brought into it any little piece that could make it better while trying to make it as idiot proof as possible.

What he wants to know is if well educated people on this matter could look over this tek to help fix any errors or give even the smallest suggestions to help make it better.

Also SWIM was thinking about the sodium carbonate wash instead of the wash thats listed in the tek... so if it could be explained where this process would be done at in the tek, and a easy detailed explaination of how to do the wash because SWIM is still unclear about it... that would be great


Here is the tek...

Step One - What you will need --
- 1-Pound of mimosa hostilis rootbark
- Blender

Break 1-Pound of Mimosa Hostilis rootbark into 2” pieces and grind it all up in a glass-topped blender, a little at a time. Grind the rootbark up to no more than 1mm particle diameter. Less than this will result in decreased yields.


Step Two (Polar Extraction) - What you will need --
- The ground up mimosa hostilis rootbark (From Step One)
- 1-Quart white vinegar
- 3.5-Quarts of distilled water
- 3-Liter crockpot
- Something to stir hot liquids
- 1-gallon wide-mouthed glass or stainless container

Premix 1-quart of white vinegar & 3.5-quarts of distilled water. Put the ground up mimosa in a 3-liter crockpot, then fill it with 50% of the water-vinegar solution. Stir well and turn it on “high”. After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off most of the liquid into a 1-gallon wide-mouthed glass or stainless container.

Add 25% of the water-vinegar solution to the crockpot again. Stir well and turn it on “high”. After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off all of the liquid into the same container again.

Add the last 25% of the remaining water-vinegar solution to the crockpot again. Stir well and turn it on “high”. After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off all of the liquid into the same container again.

After the last extraction press out the fiber to squeeze the last bit of liquid from it. Discard the rootbark fiber and save the three combined extractions in the 1-gallon container. Allow the vegetable particles in the extraction in the 1-gallon container to settle to the bottom overnight.


Step Three - What you will need --
- Contents of the 1-gallon container (From Step Two)
- Empty 1-gallon glass wine jug

Then pour off the liquid from 1-gallon container into an empty 1-gallon glass wine jug, being careful not to pour off any of the vegetable sludge at the bottom. Discard the sludge and keep the contents of the wine jug.


Step Four (Basification) - What you will need --
- Contents of the 1-gallon glass wine jug (From Step Three)
- 5 Tablespoons (63grams) of sodium hydroxide (lye)
- 1-Pint of WARM distilled water
- pH papers or digital pH reader

Premix in advance a solution of: 5 tablespoons (63 grams) of sodium hydroxide (lye) with 1-Pint of WARM distilled water. Stir well.

Slowly add this solution to the wine jug, then cap the jug. Gently tilt the wine jug back and forth for 1 full minute to mix the contents. Basify to a pH of 13.
Note: If you don’t have pH papers, basify till it turns black, then add an additional 25% of the amount of basification solution you used.This is to guarantee that you’re at a pH of 13 and then tilt the wine jug back and forth for 1 full minute again.

The brown foam you see floating on top of the basified extract after tilting the jug should flatten out to a thickness of no more than 1/2” after 45 minutes or so if you’ve used enough lye. Add a bit more lye and re-tilt if it’s thicker than that.

Let your mixture cool down.


Step Five (Nonpolar Extraction) - What you will need --
- Contents of the 1-gallon glass wine jug (From Step Four)
- 450 milliliters of warm VM&P naptha
- Warm water
- Glass turkey baster
- Pint mason jar

Add 150ml of warm VM&P naptha to the wine jug. Add exactly enough warm water to the jug to raise the liquid level to an inch below the top, then cap the jug.
Note: To get the naptha warm, heat up some water and place a glass container with the 150ml of VM&P naptha in it, into the hot water and let it sit for a minute or so. Be careful.

Gently tilt the wine jug slowly back and forth for 5 full minutes to mix the contents. Allow the jug to sit undisturbed on a table for at least 4 hours.

There should now be two layers visible in the jug, a lower dark one and a smaller clear one on top filling the neck of the jug. Use a glass turkey baster to suck up the top clear layer into a pint mason jar. Be careful not to suck up any of the lower brown/black layer into the mason jar.

Repeat the last three steps two more times and afterwards the contents of the 1-gallon glass wine jug can now be discarded.

Then gently evaporate the contents of the pint mason jar down to half volume. The contents might look cloudy after its been evaporated enough.
Note: If you want big clean crystals you must evaporate as slowly as possible, and cover it with something on top (preferably not plastic), and just have a small hole so the vapor can escape. For example keeping it on a balcony in a glass dish or container and cover it with something like part of a white cotton t-shirt taped down at the sides. If you want it fast, let it open so it evaporates quicker into the air.


Step Six (Freeze-precipitation) - What you will need --
- Conents of the pint mason jar (From Step Five)
- Freezer
- Funnel
- Quart mason jar
- Small coffee filter paper
- Metal scraper (butter knife)

Place the sealed mason jar in a freezer for 3 days to precipitate the crystals.
Note: Your freezer can’t be marginally cold. If it doesn’t freeze ice cream HARD, then it isn’t cold enough. -20°C (-4°F) is about where it should be.

Prepare a filter setup by placing a funnel into a quart mason jar and putting a small coffee filter paper into the funnel.

Shake the naptha in the mason jar strongly to stir up all the crystals and use a metal object to break the crystals from the sides of the contianer then very quickly pour into the funnel for filtering. Filter within a minute or two after removal from the freezer so it doesn’t have any time to warm up or else it will get warm and redissolve the DMT. Impure yellow-white DMT crystals will be seen on the coffee filter paper. Pay attention to the crystals that will have formed in the jar after the naptha has been poured out of it and allowed to dry, these can be scraped out and used also.
Note: The leftover naptha can be re-froze/precipitated a couple more times or allowed to evaporate completely to get any of excess DMT from it or even used for another extraction, but this step is completely optional.

Allow the crystals to completely dry out on the filter paper in the funnel.

If your dry crystals are white to very almost white, then there is no need to contine with the last few steps and you are done. If they have a yellowish color to them, then the next steps are required to purify them to the pure white color they are supposed to be.


Step Seven (Wash) - What you will need --
- Distilled water
- NON-SOAPY clear ammonium hydroxide
- Second pint mason jar

Premix a wash solution by mixing equal parts of distilled water and NON-SOAPY clear ammonium hydroxide equaling 100 milliliters total of liquid into a pint mason jar.
Note: An alternative to the ammonia-water wash is to use 25 milliliters (5 teaspoons) of ICE COLD distilled water to wash.

Be sure that the crystals are absolutely DRY before washing. Slowly pour 100 milliliters of the wash solution over the crystals (still in the filter paper) to wash them.

Remove the filter paper from the funnel, spread it out flat and allow the crystals to COMPLETELY dry out.

You should now have at least 2-1/2 grams of white crystalized DMT

The only comment that popped out to me was don't use ammonia in the final wash. People have lost a lot of yield. Do it after the initial freeze precipitation just so you know if it is necessary or not.

Get Sodium Carbonate(Na2CO3), it is sold at pool stores as pH Plus or you can make it from baking soda by cooking it at 200 for 2 hours I believe.

Add a pinch of Na2CO3 to an equal amount of distilled water as you have Naptha. Make sure its not cold, I don't know if hot is the best either but cold could cause precipitation. Combine the two liquids and shake the hell out of them for 10-20 seconds. You have to be fast to minimize loss into the water. QUICKLY separate the two, if using Naptha it is the top layer. They split instantaneously. Repeat the process with plain distilled water two more times and recrystallize.

is that true?!!? SWIM always thought the smaller the better...how could a smaller particle decrease the yield? i dont understand

I had read that in some tek somewhere as well. I think it has to do with the powder absorbing more liquid that coarser particles. Id think it wouldn't decrease yield just increase the amount of lye water needed.

Yeah, that sounds kinda strange to me. The bark i use is like fine dust and i have never had any problems...

Yeah!! surely a fine powder gives a greater surface area and hence greater yields!!